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#375
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 05 Feb, 2010 09:52
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yea, i kinda thought so, but somoene at one point said the shafts were the same, but i dindt see how that would work, because if one gear is cut the other way, then the other gear must be cut the same way.
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#376
by
NintendoKD
on 05 Feb, 2010 12:10
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Well, I guess I could take the old gear off of the gasser I/M shaft, and someone could put one on for a diesel from a broken one, or maybe there is a place that sells just the gears? This thing is going to be perfect when it is finished, balanced, and is going to look very nice "not that it matters"
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#377
by
NintendoKD
on 12 Feb, 2010 21:15
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Got the I/M shredded in a CNC machine, for FREE "best four letter word in the english language" It is naturally balanced, and is well within specs. I plastiguaged everything today, I need oversize bearings on the mains, new pistons "damaged from being thrown about in a 70mph head on collision", and my rod bearings are good so std everything, to include pistons and rings, unless the .0030 on the crown of the piston means that they are oversize, can anyone help me with this as first oversize for 1.6 is 5 over not three right? anyway, I am prepping to send the crank off to Castillo's crank service in LA "guy is legendary in the tuner scene, and really knows his stuff" to be knife edged and lightened and balanced, and mains oversized. I need a rebuild kit for a 1.6 turbo bottom end and an aaz top end. This is the stuff that is killing me, if I had the parts I could be done with this in a matter of days "I work fast" piston protrusion is unusual with 2/3 not protruding as uch as 1/4 is that normal? I plan to go forward with the dry sump setup and the girdle, I'm gonna make this work. I'll post pics when I can get a chance.
thanks,
Kevin
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#378
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 14 Feb, 2010 08:11
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how do you check for protrusion if you got messed up pistons? and if they are much different, i would begin to check rods for being bent. 2 and 3 would get bent first in a stock TD engine. since the intake biases those 2 cylinders worst.
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#379
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Feb, 2010 09:31
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well, now I have an excuse to get a set of these:
http://www.maxspeedingrods.com/parts/rods%20items/vw&audi/VW%20Golf%20Turbo%20Diesel%201.6%20Connecting%20Rods%20Conrods%20Rod%20Pleuel.htmlooks nice, but i'll have to save up a little to get em, and sell a lot of my sh.... errr stuff, if enough people want em, maybe we can do a group buy. I still need a set of oversize main bearings to plastiguage out to see if everything is good. The pistons aren't messed up, just dinged up around the skirts a little, and with what i'll be doing don't want to take any chances. like I said set the deck down on a flat wooden surface and turned the crank, when 1/4 came tdc the block hopped "as in th pistons protruded and the crank was much harder to turn" a bit when 2/3 came tdc they did not protrude enough to make the block hop could be mistaken and the bench I had was warped in the middle. sed some motor oil in the mains and everything else to get everything moving, i'm not running it on a racetrack just turning it and admiring the engineering. Side to side is also good. less than five like the benley calls for.
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#380
by
truckinwagen
on 14 Feb, 2010 09:41
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what do they want for those rods?
crower also sells rods for the 1.6, but they are X-beam not H-beam(built for less windage at stupid high RPM)
I might be interested if the price is good enough.
-Owen
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#381
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Feb, 2010 10:29
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crower sells their stuff so that only bill gates could afford to build an engine with their stuff. Don't remember who said it but "in order to make a small fortune racing you have to start with a large one"
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#382
by
VW Smokr
on 14 Feb, 2010 15:15
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Maybe I've missed a change in your game plan or something, but 1.6 rods work with 1.6 pistons, and 1.5 rods work with 1.5 pistons... no mixing AFAIK. The different pistons have different compression distances.
Sorry if I missed out on an episode here of your mixed-parentage engine build. (No insults meant; I've got a 1.6TD rot. assembly to put together in a new 1.5D block myself, but it will use a massaged 1.6TD head & I/P and head studs. I'm looking for mileage/longevity, not raw speed.)
J.R.
SoCal
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#383
by
NintendoKD
on 14 Feb, 2010 17:21
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Yeah, been a while, comin in kinda late in the game aren't ya? the title is a little deceptive, should prolly change that. The 1.5 rot. assy. was going to be hell for cold starts putting static comp below 17/1 so I am going to use the 1.6 rotating assy, read a little and you will see.
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#384
by
rabbitman
on 14 Feb, 2010 23:44
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Yeah the title is rather misleading.........I still have to think about it to remember what your really doing
.
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#385
by
NintendoKD
on 15 Feb, 2010 21:59
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rustling up a vnt17 is a difficult process, but I finally have a handle on some good used gt1749vb's and what vehicles that they come on
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#386
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 16 Feb, 2010 07:16
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there was one on craigslist a feek or so ago. for 250 bucks.
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#387
by
NintendoKD
on 16 Feb, 2010 11:52
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There are different 1749's, the va and the v are both vnt's, and are also known as vnt 15's but they are the lower power version, the real vnt17 comes on the euro pd series diesel engines in mostly VW owned vhicles seat, skoda, porsche, etc. this is the daddy and doesn't spool well at idle spools best at just above idle, as I'm told and gives over 120 BHP to a TDI engine, people have reported much more from a proper tune and different controllers though. I plan to use the compressor and housing "mod the vnt17" from a vnt 22 from sprinter diesels and have the good exhaust from the 17 power a much bigger compressor for more boost and see just how much she will take. I imagine, that since some folks are getting 30-45 psi from the vnt17 I should be able to get much more than that at say ballpark 7k rpms.........if all goes well with the build
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#388
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 17 Feb, 2010 09:11
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There are different 1749's, the va and the v are both vnt's, and are also known as vnt 15's but they are the lower power version, the real vnt17 comes on the euro pd series diesel engines in mostly VW owned vhicles seat, skoda, porsche, etc. this is the daddy and doesn't spool well at idle spools best at just above idle, as I'm told and gives over 120 BHP to a TDI engine, people have reported much more from a proper tune and different controllers though. I plan to use the compressor and housing "mod the vnt17" from a vnt 22 from sprinter diesels and have the good exhaust from the 17 power a much bigger compressor for more boost and see just how much she will take. I imagine, that since some folks are getting 30-45 psi from the vnt17 I should be able to get much more than that at say ballpark 7k rpms.........if all goes well with the build
you arent going to have enough fuel at 7000 rpms. the pump simply wont be able to keep up. and you need lots of fuel to make lots of boost at that high of an rpm.
just remember kevin, these engines do not like boost at low rpms AT ALL! high boost at low rpms makes these buggers bend rods. ask andy2 about bent rods from boost to early. usually when your rods bend, they bent enough to trash the block. i would try and keep the big boost off until 2500 or so. i would not be giving you this warning if you had a normal turbo, but VNTs can actually produce boost at a dead idle.
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#389
by
NintendoKD
on 17 Feb, 2010 21:23
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Not planning on running high boost at low rpm's maybe I didn't explain it well enough when I did. The point here, is that this particular setup is perfect for what I want it for. If I can bend forged h-beam chromoly rods, I say, bring it on
but not really
I will be sending the pump to giles to see what he can do for me, this is really a unique situation, and want to kind of drop it on him real surprise like
