1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project - page 9 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#120 by NintendoKD on 03 Dec, 2009 05:43
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very good to know
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#121 by Rabbit on Roids on 03 Dec, 2009 10:25
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I am not going to mess around, I am starting a list, of all of the things that I will need to make this work.
1.6 turbo long block: check
aaz head/ complete:
Have to choose which turbo either a vgt or vnt for sure. Until then I cannot choose intercooling options or exhaust mani or D/P, but the 1y intake seems promising.
new rebuild kit for the bottom end:
new vaccum pump:
upgraded oil pump:
dry sump oil pan "fabricated" gonna need some big help on this one guys:
arp fasteners, conrods and head studs:
metal head gasket:
water pump:
upgraded starter high torque/6v:
new tranny, havent looked at options for this yet either:
oil cooler:
replace all old worn out bushings in the car engine mounts, strut rubbers, etc.:
1.6turbo pump, send to giles:
send off "hot" parts to Jet hot to be coated with their good stuff:
rebuild the head and plug up the extra drain hole, grind the valves, seat them, clean the head, replace valve guides, head seals, port and polish,"before I put it all back together of course":
put it all back together, and put the engine and tranny in, hook up the glow plugs, starter, oil lines, fuel, intake/intercooler, exhaust, coolant, oil, tranny fluid, reconnect throttle cables and alternator wires etc. and I'm all set for the road.: whew! sounds easy but there is one more thing I have to do, document the entire affair with copious amounts of pictures and commentaries in the how to section.
thanks guys for the opportunities to work with some truly greats,
Kevin
VGT and VNT are the same thing, so that simplifies your deciding between a VGT and VNT.
why do you need a dry sump oil system? you need a dry sump oil pump, a goofy pan, a reservoir. waste of money.
why do you need different rods? you arent gonna have 40 psi at 2000 rpms or anything. waste of money.
why do you need a different starter? a newer diesel starter will work great, and they arent huge like the early ones. again, waste of money.
and another thing. why a pneumatic valve spring compressor? you can make your own for a couple pennies. do you have loads of money to just be wasting on gimmick parts? i would spend all that money on a bigger turbo and a more gilesified pump. maybe a better radiator. you totally missed the cooling system throughout the whole write up. talk to people like 53willys, hes been having some cooling issues with his 1.6/AAZ. im really not trying to bash your build, im just trying to keep you on track. i never had any of those gimmicks. neither did anyone else. they are not necesssary. i mean, sure, it would be cool to see it with a dry sump oiling system, but why? and why do you need better rods? VW rods are already forged and strong as crap. -
#122 by rabbitman on 03 Dec, 2009 12:51
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There are two styles of vac pump. The one pictured in your TD block is the rotary vane style. There is not any rebuild kit for it, but they tend to last forever without issue. The other style is the diaphragm style. They tend to tear diaphragms. There are rebuild kits available for them, but if you have a rotary I would try that before touching a diaphragm pump.
I had to chuckle at that, last winter I could've bought a good rotory pump on ebay for $25 but passed cause I didn't wanna pay that much
. About two days later my diaphram ripped so I bought two rebuild kits on ebay for, um, 25 bucks .
Use the rotory pump.
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#123 by 745 turbogreasel on 03 Dec, 2009 14:27
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why do you need a dry sump oil system? you need a dry sump oil pump, a goofy pan, a reservoir. waste of money.
The stock pan arrangement always struck me as akin to having your balls on the front of your foot where the big toe is usually found... -
#124 by RabbitJockey on 03 Dec, 2009 14:32
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i'd really like to try using an electric vacuum pump, but i don't think the ones i have in mind would be able to keep up with the demand of a brake booster, it might have a shot with a big vacuum reservoir but i doubt it. might as well switch to manual brakes if you do that tho, and i have the gear setup to do so hehe, hard to find the diesel parts to block off the vacuum pump hole
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#125 by NintendoKD on 03 Dec, 2009 15:03
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VGT and VNT are the same thing, so that simplifies your deciding between a VGT and VNT.
why do you need a dry sump oil system? you need a dry sump oil pump, a goofy pan, a reservoir. waste of money.
why do you need different rods? you arent gonna have 40 psi at 2000 rpms or anything. waste of money.
why do you need a different starter? a newer diesel starter will work great, and they arent huge like the early ones. again, waste of money.
and another thing. why a pneumatic valve spring compressor? you can make your own for a couple pennies. do you have loads of money to just be wasting on gimmick parts? i would spend all that money on a bigger turbo and a more gilesified pump. maybe a better radiator. you totally missed the cooling system throughout the whole write up. talk to people like 53willys, hes been having some cooling issues with his 1.6/AAZ. im really not trying to bash your build, im just trying to keep you on track. i never had any of those gimmicks. neither did anyone else. they are not necesssary. i mean, sure, it would be cool to see it with a dry sump oiling system, but why? and why do you need better rods? VW rods are already forged and strong as crap.
[/quote]
Didi I put rods down? oops, I know these rods are strong. VGT and VNT are fundamentally different one works by changing the exhaust and one works off of changing the compressor side, they both have similar effects, almost/no turbo lag. I want a dry sump oil system because I live in southern ca and the roads are ratty "it bothers me how much clearance there actually is between the ground, and the bottom of the oil pan" oh, and I have weitec coilovers that lower the car like 6" "no, not really just exaggerating, but it's quite a bit" I know a guy that has an alternator shop and he owes me a favor, beside he is an old timer and does fantastic work "rebuilt the generator in my 54' plymouth savoy" I want the pneumatic one because I work on a wide variety of engines, I hve two 8v 1.8l gassers and a 1zzfe in my garage right now. I would love to have known about upgrading the cooling system earlier, sorry I missed that. I would never accuse you of bashing me, I know better.
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#126 by maxfax on 03 Dec, 2009 18:24
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why do you need a dry sump oil system? you need a dry sump oil pump, a goofy pan, a reservoir. waste of money.
The stock pan arrangement always struck me as akin to having your balls on the front of your foot where the big toe is usually found...
Skid plate baby!! I have part of an oil steam boiler welded to the bottom of my pan.. THe pan has lived though alot, and I think it helps with winter traction..
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#127 by NintendoKD on 03 Dec, 2009 20:10
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I was honestly thinking of mid engine mounting it in my 78' but maybe later, for now I'll put it in the front. I do not want to add any undue for future purposes.
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#128 by Rabbit on Roids on 04 Dec, 2009 09:15
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why do you need a dry sump oil system? you need a dry sump oil pump, a goofy pan, a reservoir. waste of money.
The stock pan arrangement always struck me as akin to having your balls on the front of your foot where the big toe is usually found...
Skid plate baby!! I have part of an oil steam boiler welded to the bottom of my pan.. THe pan has lived though alot, and I think it helps with winter traction..
im going along these lines too. im gonna build a skid plate for my jetta when it gets the diesel transplant. screw it, mount it to the oil pan rain and to the front motor mount or something. -
#129 by NintendoKD on 05 Dec, 2009 19:34
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#130 by NintendoKD on 05 Dec, 2009 19:41
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As you can see I pulled the oil pan today, there was sludge all in this thing. The last guy who had it had some water inside somewhere, cause there is some surface rust on the crank and a couple of the rods. There was also a crapload of silicon on the oilpan "guy musta loved the stuff" ad some oil left in it for storage preservation. What kind of engine work should I get done at the mach. and don't you dare say line bore and hone "which isn't necessary, still has crosshatching visible" reinforce the bottom end? lighten the crank? balance the components? anything that I need to do before I put the bottom end back together. I am going to hot tank it and will dissassemble tomorrow for that. The head work I can do myself "port and polish etc. but I trust someone else to clean it.
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#131 by Turbinepowered on 06 Dec, 2009 03:57
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You should still give it at least a quick hone. Proper procedure whenever you're replacing rings.
You are replacing the rings, right? While it's already open, might as well, good preventative maintenance measure rather than putting god-only-knows-how-abused old rings back in... -
#132 by NintendoKD on 06 Dec, 2009 09:17
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I do not have the time or money to replace the pistons with larger ones, or do I? anyone have an overbore set??? No, I really want to keep this thing as close to 1.6L disp. as possible. What is absolute WCS?
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#133 by theman53 on 06 Dec, 2009 09:18
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not the pistons, but definately should do the rings.
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#134 by Rabbit on Roids on 06 Dec, 2009 11:35
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replacing the rings can be as cheap as 20 bucks or so. or almost 100, depending on what rings you use. i would be interrested to see how a set of total seal second rings works on one of these motors.