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IDI Engine / Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 19, 2018, 10:34:44 pm »
Thin on the door cards is right.  I purchased a Caddy and the previous owner spent considerable coin on getting the seats and door cards done with this nice thick quilted pattern.  Had to admit it looked great.  But the window cranks wouldn't turn there was so much extra padding behind them.  Even when they did there was this trim piece, sort of a rope or bead that would be caught every half a turn.  I finally had to source out some stock cards and clean them up. 

All is well now. 

And your shifter under the car still has the boot around it!  Or is that new?
Don't see many of them as they get torn up easy.  Well on brushy roads they do. 
IDI Engine / Re: 1.6 TD reliable performance build
« Last post by mcpook on March 19, 2018, 12:46:44 am »
I like the seats, and steering wheel.  But even more I want to know if you did the door panels?  Seems like they are much better than stock.  What's the secret?

I would straight the floor and warn the tire place that there are specific places to put a jack under the car.  If they don't do it right on my car it pops the fender flares and those are not easy to fix.  Fiber glassed on and body filler to smooth into fenders.  Custom install.  They generally get the message.

I would also take apart the shifter while it is accessible and inspect, clean and lube.  So much easier now than when the carpet goes back down. 

Thanks for the shifter rebuild tip.  I'll add that to the list.  I did the panels myself to cleanly fit speakers in the doors.  Used the 5 1/4" speaker pods, and arm rests from a '92 cabriolet.  I think the metal inner handle pulls were out of an old ghia spotted at the junkyard.  The door cards are thin masonite (1/8"??), quilt batting, the grey vinyl and some new plastic fasteners.  I used the existing cards as a template to mark all the holes.  I can't remember what glue I used to secure the vinyl to the backside of the masonite.  The key is to keep the cards thin;  if they get thick, they interfere with the window cranks and make it impossible to reinstall the remote mirror trim.  The other tip is to install the pods and pockets as low and forward as possible to provide window crank clearance. 

Spent some more time cleaning out the old soundproofing/padding. 

Almost ready for new soundproofing and padding. 

Finished the shift linkage rebuild under the truck.  Used the MissingLinkz teflon bushings.  Can't wait to connect the shift rods to the tranny. 

Also started to address the holes a younger me cut for the WVO system.  Correcting sins of the past?  Story of my life it seems... 
You can see where the tank was mounted and a hole cut to pass the WVO and coolant lines.

Routed them through the subframe of the cab. 

The firewall hole was poorly placed under the rain tray drain and was a source of leaks to the cab.  Luckily, I live in the most arid state in the union and floor rot hadn't gotten a foothold yet. 

Ordered some new carpet and padding from Newton.  Next: Prep and weld in patches.  Prime the bare metal.  Straighten floor humps.  Wipe all down with alcohol and install soundproofing.  Swap out the pedal cluster for '88 scirocco pedals to allow upgrade to 22mm master cylinder.  Rebuild the shifter base.  Then put the interior back together and move on to the brake system.   

Looking for front GTI fender flares and an MK1 scirocco shifter if someone has extras they are willing to sell. 
IDI Engine / Re: How do you test oil squirters?
« Last post by libbydiesel on March 19, 2018, 12:20:49 am »
I don't think that air will give an accurate reading.  I would use a thin oil.
Parts for Sale/Wanted / Re: WTB: 1.6D Cast Thermostat Housing Flange
« Last post by libbydiesel on March 19, 2018, 12:06:04 am »
You will want the Mk1 thermostat housing but will need to modify the hose.  The aluminum one is 055121121A.  The plastic one is shown in the pic, but the aluminum one is the same angle.  You then need a sharp turn to avoid the aluminum bracket.  The sticker shows the part number for the hose in the pic.  It's available at most auto parts stores.  Make the two cuts and use the center section of hose.  Cut the hose from radiator to length as well and add a hose coupler and clamps.  The copper connector shown is available at any hardware store, but requires beading.  I use the homemade beading tool shown in the second pic.  Otherwise, source an appropriate diameter beaded coolant connector from some place like this:

Parts for Sale/Wanted / WTB: 1.6 IP mount brace
« Last post by ToddA1 on March 18, 2018, 11:44:01 pm »
No clue where I put mine, but Iím tired of looking for it.

This is the small brace that ties the IP mount to the top of the alternator bracket... maybe 4-5Ē long.. I need one for a non AC car, itís a bit longer than itís AC counterpart.

Iím in NJ 08002.

IDI Engine / Re: air bubbles in injector overflow lines
« Last post by sgnimj96 on March 18, 2018, 10:52:25 pm »
well,  it seems to run ok.       Not much I would want to  change other than those heat shields.    I imagined maybe compression could pass up between the nozzle and injector body with a poorly seating shield.    I sprayed some soapy water at the base of the injector threads, no bubbles. 

Planning a road trip so I want get my skepticism out now  :)
Thanks for the opinions
IDI Engine / Re: air bubbles in injector overflow lines
« Last post by ORCoaster on March 18, 2018, 10:09:54 pm »
Somewhere along the line I thought I read that the amount of fuel in the small diameter injector lines was the portion not used when the injector fills the cylinder with a shot.  If the pump is pressuring more than needed then you have excess.  That goes to the little lines and back to the tank eventually.  Depending on how good your injectors are you will get more left over after the delivery.  So perhaps the new needle is less generous and you are seeing more running down the tube than the others.

Just a theory and we all know what that means. 
Got some Grant rings and they fit great.
 The crank in the engine had a bad spot and would have needed ground.
 So I put in another crank that is .25 over,... all except for the thrust areas. Which won't fit over the one-piece center main bearing,... aaarg.
 So I need one .25 over main bearing and I'll use the separate thrust washers.
 Better to use the 3-piece main bearing anyway.
IDI Engine / Re: How do you test oil squirters?
« Last post by fatmobile on March 18, 2018, 10:03:51 pm »
I don't have any injector testers that go down that low accurately.
Andrew I thought I saw your squirter tester on your bench when I stopped by but didn't get around to asking if that's what it was.
 Can I test them using air?
Kind of sounds like the spring under the top lid is not in place correctly.  Pushing on the collar like it is full throttle.  Then governor pushes back on it somehow. 
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