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#30
by
NintendoKD
on 24 Nov, 2009 01:20
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I understand, I just have horrible luck with cars. This thing has 250,000 miles on it and the bearings finally went RIGHT after I got it "only the third owner too", I just need something that runs and gets me to and from work "on base, where I live" until I can sell my 06' suzuki reno to have enough money to put a new engine in my family minivan"the old one's previous owner was running it with a semi-bad head gasket and water in the cooling system, cascading engine failure of the greates magnitude ensued". The engine for the van costs an average of 1500 and I only spent 200 on the 1.6 td block. New head gasket and arp studs would put me up about another 200 four hundred total for a fuel efficient car "non-turbo for the moment" then I can sell the other car to get enough money to buy the motor for the van, and have some spending cash for the rabbit project. Unless there are some generous people around I really don't have another option for the time being. I don't currently have the money and I believe you, and you are absolutely right! I want to wait until I have everything to complete this but for now I have other rather pressing priorities. I do hope that you can all understand I am listening to your VERY helpful advice, however for now I need a reliable engine to rebuild and the 1.6 mated with the 1.5 head is a good bet at the moment, if only just temporary. I think that higher static compression is fine for now "better cold start too" until I can resolve some problems in finance and get rid of some of my vehicles. If anyone would love to talk to better understand my situation you can call me, I will be on leave throughout thanksgiving. 6618162150 Kevin If anyone is in a particularly helpful mood that would be great too.
Thanks so much, God bless, and Happy Thanksgiving,
Kevin
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#31
by
thedeezel
on 24 Nov, 2009 09:21
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I can get you a complete 1.6 NA motor for less than $200, more than likely would need at least a re-ring and new bearings to run decent. I am not sure what it would cost to ship to 29 palms, maybe the military has a way soldiers can ship stuff cheap? I also would be able to get you just a head or rotating assembly also, but it would be from an NA motor, but to my knowledge the only diff would be the notches in the pistons to clear the squirters, which wuold be a mot point if you need to bore out the TD block you would need to order new pistons anyway.
If you are interested, let me know and I will do what I can.
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#32
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 24 Nov, 2009 10:53
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no, but they will fit in a TD head.. the cups from a 1.5 that is...
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#33
by
NintendoKD
on 24 Nov, 2009 14:58
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I have a Turbo 1.6 block and an entire 1.5 N/A engine but thats about it. oh and a g60 intake mani, and a audi 5000 turbo intake mani. the 1.6 turbo block has a rotating assy.
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#34
by
NintendoKD
on 24 Nov, 2009 18:09
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Ok, so to make things simple, what components do I need to make this project work and where do I get them? The 1.5 rods and pistons are hard to get, I get that so what is different between the 1.5 and the 1.6 Turbo pistons and rods? same bore right different material? better strength? I need the crank from the 1.5 for less stroke to allow for higher rpms, and the pistons don't really look all that different, are they. Cold start issues are no real issue for me "talking about low comp ratio" The turbo "while running" will more than make up for that. I am looking for the best and second best components here without cost in mind. I will do this, I will find a way.
Thanks guys,
Kevin
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#35
by
RabbitJockey
on 24 Nov, 2009 18:56
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pistons are the same bore, different wrist pin height. rods are also different, and you need the 1.5 rods to go with the 1.5 crank
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#36
by
NintendoKD
on 24 Nov, 2009 23:01
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I kinda thought so, are they going to be srong enough? the 1.5 rods? how the hell do I get pistons that are strong enough? the cranks are beastly, so I'm not too worried. I would really like to get a REAL NO STIH parts list going and where I can get said parts, any takers?
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#37
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 25 Nov, 2009 11:04
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dude, nobody told us exactly how to do it. so, like we did, use the damn search function. it takes all the parts a normal engine takes to run. that should explain it pretty well. do you know how to build an engine? do you know how a diesel engine functions? do you know what parts go where? you dont seem like you are a very good mechanic. i never had to ask anyone what went where when i built my 250 horse 22r race car engine. you still have to have all the pieces to make an engine, nothing gets left out. when i say its a straight forward build, i mean that its straight forward. bolt parts together. turn key.
honestly i dont know how many more rpms the 1.5 will turn if any, over the 1.6 because we are dealing with such low engine RPM anyway. you could probably honestly build better power and torque with a 1.6, just because the burning fuel will be in the cyl longer than in the 1.5.
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#38
by
NintendoKD
on 25 Nov, 2009 23:41
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dude, nobody told us exactly how to do it. so, like we did, use the damn search function. it takes all the parts a normal engine takes to run. that should explain it pretty well. do you know how to build an engine? do you know how a diesel engine functions? do you know what parts go where? you dont seem like you are a very good mechanic. i never had to ask anyone what went where when i built my 250 horse 22r race car engine. you still have to have all the pieces to make an engine, nothing gets left out. when i say its a straight forward build, i mean that its straight forward. bolt parts together. turn key.
honestly i dont know how many more rpms the 1.5 will turn if any, over the 1.6 because we are dealing with such low engine RPM anyway. you could probably honestly build better power and torque with a 1.6, just because the burning fuel will be in the cyl longer than in the 1.5.
to answer your question, yes I do know how to build an engine. plastiguage, torque specs and all. I must admit, I have been a bit lazy about the search function as of late..... a bit....... yeah, so anywho when the idea was first presented to me, I thought "my god, this is something unique and challenging" building and learning about diesels has been a bit of a challenge thus far. I am used to gasoline engines, and because of that am used to much weaker components that have no german engineering behind them, and are not designed with high tolerances for drastic changes in temperature and PSI strain. I am still learning. Everyone has to start somewhere. I do very much like to do thing right "measure twice and cut once" I do realize that it takes quite a bit to destroy these engines, I would like to do it right the first time. I do think that the 1.6 setup is better, however, I am quite curious about how the extra revvs will effect turbo spool, especially larger type turbos. Much like you have suggested before, I wish to gain all of the knowledge, and parts that I need and then proceed with the build, I was under the impression that I could get that kind of support through this forum through this thread. I must apologize in advance if I have offended anyoneand Continually thank everyone for their contributions no matter how light of insignificant it may seem. Oh, and I got the g-60 intake mani today, looks veeeery promising, I am also working on a way to make a reverse mold of the turbo that is on the audi 5000 mani I already have to put onto the g-60 mani in a permasteel type material, and then paint on top of that.
thanks everyone so far and happy thanksgiving,
Kevin
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#39
by
NintendoKD
on 25 Nov, 2009 23:58
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so I will assume that my privious questions were stupid ones "mostly due to the fact that they were met with such malice" I am an electronics instructor and know how to take criticism "for future reference" I would love to use the search function but not sure of even what it is that I seek. crank, bearings, rods, rod bearings, pistons, in mostly that order in the bottom end the top end I can only assume "due to the use of an aaz head is hydroulic" valves slide through the vave guides, valve keepers, springs, retainers and the tappets that sit on top stroked ever so gently by the cam above and finally the cam bearings. For those unfarmilliar in the mechanics behind or how to build an engine I can answer all of those questions as well. If I must waste all of our time here due to the disbelief of others then so be it, It may also be appropriate to mention that truth is stranger than fiction when it comes to believing rather unbelievable details about someones life "like last weekend spent driving CHP patrol cars around on the campus in norcal and spinning wildly about on the skidpan with video to prove it' but that is a nother story for another time. Seriously, I am a rather intense individual, and when I get an Idea or concept into my mind it is rather all I can think about, untill all ends are tied up and the project is finished. This is the latest. I can only assume from an engineering aspect that the oil squirters are going to prevent meltdown or catastrofic detonation of the pistons and rods under high dynamic compression but I did want to be sure, just for STIHS and giggles. I will do this with or without the help of the forum or the community, I have come to rely quite heavily on you all and I suppose that is my mistake, easily rectified.
Thanks,
Kevin
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#40
by
rabbitman
on 26 Nov, 2009 00:36
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I forget what your latest plan was since it got so far off track.
I don't really see what the problem is, as long as you use all IDI stuff
Yeah the squirters keep the pistons cool when your running high EGT's, lot's of people have turboed NA's and as long as the egt's stay low enough everythings fine.
There are no cam bearings in these engines, the cam rides right on the aluminum.
I'm not an expert on head swapping but it's muchly simplified by using all hydro or all solid lifter stuff, so to use an AAZ head it would help to have a hydro block so you don't have to plug oil drain galleys and stuff.
I know what you mean about getting a one track mind on stuff, for me it usually drives people crazy since they usually don't care what I'm working on
.
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#41
by
NintendoKD
on 26 Nov, 2009 22:08
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I still have a lot of research to do on this thing, fuel pump modification, turbo, oil pump "which to use" intercooling, injectors to use, etc. That is the whole reason that I started this thread. To get help. I want to do this thing the right way, like no one has before.
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#42
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 28 Nov, 2009 13:11
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ask us specific questions, not just, "how do i build this thing" then you will get better answers from us. dont just expect the answers to come to you. gotta work for it sometimes.
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#43
by
NintendoKD
on 28 Nov, 2009 19:46
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Fair enough, If I am going to beselfish I should at least be specific. Also, very good to know.
Thanks,
Kevin
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#44
by
NintendoKD
on 28 Nov, 2009 23:52
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I am currently looking for a complete AAZ IDI head, turbo, mani, and downpipe. Having a sponsor for this would be great because I don't have all of the cash for all of this right now. I found these guys, based out of japan, they machine their own stuff apparently. Do we know anything about their work? for the turbo I'm thinking a vnt type turbo that's pretty large "not ginormous" to give me copious amounts of boost. You need specific questions, here's one the block that I have is bare so I need a water pump, oil pump alternator etc. can I use the stuffs from my complete 1.5 motor or do should I go with something different? Also can I use the 1.5 pump and send it to GILES after the build? or should I use a 1.9 aaz IDI turbo pump for this setup? Are these questions too broad? I can make them more specific.... I think.
http://www.eurospecsport.com/products/engines/diesel-engines.htmthanks guys,
Kevin