1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project

[Rabbit on Roids]

giles probably already knew you were building something before you knew. gotta remember, he has magic powers.

[jack's lack]

giles, he has magic powers.

X2 

[NintendoKD]

DARN!  I worked SOOOOOO hard to keep it a secret too

[NintendoKD]

made up my mind, going with the spyder install, post is here:

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24629.0

[NintendoKD]

so, i'm doing some head work and need to know the angle to use on my franken head, I will be using solid lifters with a solid lifter cam, don't know if that means anything but someone told me that hydro engines and solid engines like different things.  So hows about it? 3 angle? 5 angle? and what angles should be used, aggressive is fine.  I am doing this myself, so any do's and don'ts will be awesome, as well as another question, could you throw these on the lathe and trim them up a bit around the bottom? or bad idea, I'm talking about where it thickens before it tapers down into the mushroom, would giving this a more smooth shape make for more performance?  also can I opt for performance valves? are there such a thing?  sodium filled are better?  I plan on ceramic coating everything anyway.  Are there any engines that share better internals, My aaz has the 8mm thickness valves.

[Rabbit on Roids]

so, i'm doing some head work and need to know the angle to use on my franken head, I will be using solid lifters with a solid lifter cam, don't know if that means anything but someone told me that hydro engines and solid engines like different things.  So hows about it? 3 angle? 5 angle? and what angles should be used, aggressive is fine.  I am doing this myself, so any do's and don'ts will be awesome, as well as another question, could you throw these on the lathe and trim them up a bit around the bottom? or bad idea, I'm talking about where it thickens before it tapers down into the mushroom, would giving this a more smooth shape make for more performance?  also can I opt for performance valves? are there such a thing?  sodium filled are better?  I plan on ceramic coating everything anyway.  Are there any engines that share better internals, My aaz has the 8mm thickness valves.

if you want to take a chance milling a sodium filled valve, go for it, but the head will probably break off. just get a newer aaz head, or better yet, just put the 7mm valve guides in your head and run the 7mm valves. old style engines run 8mm valves.

[theman53]

air cooled engines plus Tiffin, Ohio. He can do valves. All stainles, full race cheaper than OEM sodium.

[zukgod1]

I just spent WAY too much time ready through this, good thing the boss isnt here...

Looks like your getting good info from everyone so I'll stay out for now 

Keep it going.

[NintendoKD]

thanks zukgod, your praise humbles me   I have some more pics folks and an update.  I have more money for go fast parts, crank to go to castillos, order h-beam, chromoly rods, and the mech lifters and cam from a 1.6 td anyone interested in two aaz hyro cams?  no gear though   I will cut my losses for now and send the heads to be rebuilt, with new everything and all will have the 8mm valves, I will then proceed to port her out, or I may just prt it now and then send em off, either way I plan to g oto my machinist and get some clearances checked.  I'm also going to the boneyard to gut a great cond. 16v gasser of all goody parts I can lay my grubby fingers on, and search for another one, any one interested in anything?

now for the pics
block got some surface oxidation on it from where it was in my "now totaled car" and the stupid wreckers left all of the doors open for mother nature to piss on all of my nice, meticulously cleaned engine parts.

old pistons, going to spec them at the machinist and get some new/er ones regardless, they were banged up pretty bad from the 70mph collision that totaled my car.




you  can see my clean and shaved I/M shaft, reinstalled, I plan to change out the bearings before I finish.

hopefully... the guys over at the tanks machine shop will open their hearts and let me use their cnc machine to make a girdle from solid chromoly, and then I will take the mains to  them to grind em down, and make me some spacers.,..... hopefully.

The late style pump I will send off to Giles to be souped up

the pretty aaz head that I have, well... one of them.

mock up with a H/G from an aaz, from a member here, it is used and will not be for my build.  This is strictly so that I can drill steam holes in the mech block that I have.

[Kudagra]

Hydraulic head on a Mechanical block??

[NintendoKD]

yuppers I will add a plug to the extra oil drain in the head and get it a little deeper than the surface, then plane the rest away for a perfect surface for the aaz head gasket, that I will use.  I still have a ways to go, I need the tranny and mounts to use for placement/measurement in my 2001 toyota mr2 spyder and I still need the vnt17 and 22 from europe to make the hybrid turbo that I need for this to really haul.  Still need to send off the crank, order the chromoly rods, and machine the engine girdle, as well as the intake intercooler and so much more, but so far so good.  I can only hope to be finished before I deploy in oct nov timeframe.   Any questions this is where to ask them, lots of good advice from others, as well as pictures of, quite possibly, the most difficult way to do this particular configuration.

Kevin

[theman53]

air cooled engines plus Tiffin, Ohio. He can do valves. All stainles, full race cheaper than OEM sodium.

IF you didn't send your head out already this guy I thought was CHEAP and he included the airflow bench numbers for me. He did my entire head for almost what it would have cost me to buy the peices. I had almost 600 in it with shipping both ways. The machine shops around here that don't do VW stuff wanted more, and so did VW. There is a guy named Jack that has another forum for VWs in columbus that wanted around 500, but that is without shipping and for a stock rebuild. So I went with the full ported, stainless steel, swirl polished, undercut stems, and the flow bench numbers instead. I am just trying to help you out here kevin as it is all about time and $$$ now for you it sounds. The guy's name is John I believe and is a VW Porche fanatic that will treat you well.
Here is my 1.6 heads flow numbers.

[NintendoKD]

Drilling holes for the steam, is also in the works.  Saukraut, has done this already, so I am confident that this will work, there shouldn't be any problems of anything leaking out anywhere, when I'm done.  By done this he has converted a non-hydro head to work with a hydro block, or is it the otherway around, oh nevermind, the important thing is that this will work.

Kevin

[theman53]

If you follow what saurkrat has done you will be fine. What Libby is saying is that on the Mech block there is not a second oil drain. On the hydro head and block there are the 2 humps up front for that hole. When you put your hydro head on there isn't a coolant passage at the same spot so the coolant dumps out where the oil drain is. Audi 80 which is now MJF(another forum genius) put a piece of a new oil cap cut to fit into the head gasket hole. This blocks the coolant from leaving the engine. Unless you buy a custom MLS gasket like 53willy's did.  The HG I sent you to do your steam holes should have paint all over that hole as I was making a template to cut the oil gasket perfectly. I am kind of anal so what should have been a 2 minute process took me 3.5 hours and I only had 1 peice of oil cap gasket big enough to fit. I finally nailed it and have a little slit cut into the piece I cut so it pushes into the MLS a little. Then I used the copper high temp silicone to "glue" and seal it into place. clear as mud???

[NintendoKD]

a bit confused at first, but this cleared things right up, sorry for any confuion.

thanks,

Kevin