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#360
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Feb, 2010 00:18
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Well, that may be so, but considering both the pump and the crank were in the car, I am royally "REMOVED BY MOD" that was actually me
. Everything was in that car, I had better get it back, everything in the car is worth more than the stinking car was. How to get it back? and I mean everything.
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#361
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 02 Feb, 2010 07:37
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Well, hope it works out for you!!! I had a couple Dodge 318 heads end up in the trunk of a scrap car that then ended up in a tow yard, never to be seen again once.
All I gotta say about all that machine work is your hard earned $$$ would be way better spent with Giles on your pump... By my count between your junk head and the crank machining you're talking about now you're at least 2/3 of the way to a superpump.
thats what i been saying too, spend your money on the important stuff.
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#362
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Feb, 2010 09:31
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As I have said repeatedly now, I plan to do the pump, and send it to Jedi Master Giles. I need to wait to have the engine running for a while as a proof-of-concept for the wife, then she will approve the fundage for the giles pump. As it currently stands, the pump mod, will be the single most expensive component to the system, even the modded vnt will be cheaper because I know a guy. Bit by bit this thing is shaping up. Keep calling USAA and keep getting a voicemail URRRGHHT! *cusses to make a sailor cry*
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#363
by
Smokey Eddy
on 02 Feb, 2010 11:47
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old heads have bigger valve stem diameter (8mm). newer heads have smaller 7mm valve stem size.
I bought a new AAZ head and it had 8mm valve stems.
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#364
by
rodpaslow
on 02 Feb, 2010 12:49
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How much did you $$ if you don't mind me asking - ball park only?
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#365
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Feb, 2010 18:18
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That cannot be right, Judging from the parts that I have listed, the older is 7mm and the newer is 8mm did you read that or no? I have found out some GREAT NEWS! I called the adjuster today and explained the situation with my car, and he said to call the auction yard where the car is to be taken late Thursday. The lady that answered at the auction yard was very nice, she said that it was expected in at about 1630 on the fourth, and if I needed to come and get some things from the car, that I would need to do so soon after that, and it was entirely possible, because they are my possessions, and if I wanted them, they have no legal right to keep them. She proceeded to tell me about stories where the workers there have gotten all sorts of thing illegally from the cars before auction, and if they were caught, or if something is missing I can take legal action against them. I need to sell my cars, the 54' plymouth, the 1.5 engine and the gasser engines that I have, anyone interested can look in the for sale section. I would really like to find a buyer for this stuff, cuz I need the cash to keep up my habit *sckratches repeatedly*
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#366
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Feb, 2010 18:32
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I just had a thought, are there any gasser engines that share the same bore as our engines? and out of those, are there any that could share the crank? and piston squirters? The reason I ask is that you could deck the block to make up for the stroke, and rod length. and the other reason that I ask is that it could mean cheap, and readily available blocks for all of us with a more precisely controlled piston protrusion, meaning that everyone could run a metal H/G on a modified gasser block, or have a replacement block for cheap, with just a very little Machining modification.
I am sure that someone has thought of this, but being faced with the alternative, of having to find everything all over again this just dawned on me. Maybe Mr. Kraut would know, or one of the older, more knowledgeable members would know, who knows this could even start a new business for someone on the forum here.
thanks,
Kevin
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#367
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Feb, 2010 18:40
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How much did you $$ if you don't mind me asking - ball park only?
A Gentleman would never tell.
No, seriously, the block was 200.00 plus a trip to Sacremento "beautiful, and the fun day at the CHP Academy was WICKED!" The heads were around 300 give or take one was a little over one was a little under, and I got a full refund for the broke one in the Machinist's right now, after all is said and done, the head will cost 300 to machine, and I will rebuild it, which will cost about $450.00USD for each head, and includes everything but the valves. Unless I can get components for the rebuild for cheaper elsewhere, someone please tell me that I can
. The prices for everything are listed above through NAPA USA and I really don't know where I can get stuff for the AAZ. The latemodel 1.6 Turbo pump was about 150.00 if I remember correctly. All of the work has been done by me, except for the Machining, which was only a deck, and a wash in the acid tank. I can't think of anything else yet.
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#368
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 03 Feb, 2010 07:33
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I just had a thought, are there any gasser engines that share the same bore as our engines? and out of those, are there any that could share the crank? and piston squirters? The reason I ask is that you could deck the block to make up for the stroke, and rod length. and the other reason that I ask is that it could mean cheap, and readily available blocks for all of us with a more precisely controlled piston protrusion, meaning that everyone could run a metal H/G on a modified gasser block, or have a replacement block for cheap, with just a very little Machining modification. I am sure that someone has thought of this, but being faced with the alternative, of having to find everything all over again this just dawned on me. Maybe Mr. Kraut would know, or one of the older, more knowledgeable members would know, who knows this could even start a new business for someone on the forum here.
thanks,
Kevin
why would you WANT to run such a WEAK setup? gassrer blocks are NOT tough like diesel blocks. gasser guys take and use diesel blocks when they wanna build ***in motors. or motors for lots and LOTS of nitrous...
you could probably get it to work, but its not worth the (waste of) time or money to do it. gasser blocks are weaker alloy, and alot less of it. diesel blocks are much more robust.
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#369
by
Smokey Eddy
on 03 Feb, 2010 13:22
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i paid $400 us or something for a complete head all said and done. from prothe...
hasn't given me anything but really high compression so ... take it for what it is
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#370
by
NintendoKD
on 03 Feb, 2010 20:49
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I didn't know that about the gasser blocks, very nice to know. Had I known all of that I wouldn't have suggested it there rabbitonroids, but thanks for making me feel like a complete dumb @ $ $. We can all count on you to do that for us, don't always appreciate it, but thanks anyway. If I wanted high compression I would get a Prothe head, as I have heard that about them, but I seek low compression for insane boost. I am not really a MAD Scientist per se, more like an ANGRY Scientist. Angry at the world for not accepting me, my creativity, for saying no, for rejecting the truth and accepting lies, for saying it's impossible...... I could go on.
Kevin
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#371
by
NintendoKD
on 03 Feb, 2010 21:21
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I have been to the shop today, mostly cleaning all of the stuff I'm trying to sell. "I'm the kind of guy that can't stand selling someone junky looking parts" I took the I/M shaft to the guy on the CNC machine, he was skeptical but gave it a try, I have to pay him with a six-pack. He will be finished with my balanced reduced weight I/M shaft tomorrow, I'm stoked, gave him the one from the busted 84' GTI engine that I have "same I/M shaft" and will finish with my diesel, I wanted to use the other as a guinea pig in case it didn't work out. He is going to remove the entire lobe and all casting marks, and finish with making the journal 90* and perfecting it, and making it look pretty. I will have one extra when all is said and done, so anyone want to buy one from me? I still have that whole 84' GTI engine complete too "robbed Peter, the other 1.8 8v that I have to pay Paul" I also discovered, after thorough cleaning in the solvent tank, that the head isn't that bad off about 25 thou. will do the trick, and new bearings and rings will set this motor straight. the valves and everything else are good, so after a good cleaning and a check of the mech. shim clearance, she will be all ready for the road. I could realistically do all three of the I/M shafts that I have. Q: Does the oil filter setup for the 1.8's match the one for the 1.6 cy block?
Kevin
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#372
by
NintendoKD
on 03 Feb, 2010 22:20
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Feel like a dummy, I just realized that I forgot that the gears are the other direction on the gasser I/M shafts, oh well. I didn't have the diesel one as a ref. because of the thing being in my now totaled car
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#373
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 05 Feb, 2010 09:22
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Feel like a dummy, I just realized that I forgot that the gears are the other direction on the gasser I/M shafts, oh well. I didn't have the diesel one as a ref. because of the thing being in my now totaled car
nah, the shaft should be the same, you didnt mess up. it should be the gear on the distributor/vac pump thats cut differently. thats what someone told me anyway.
and the filter setup off the 1.8 should fit on there just fine.
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#374
by
truckinwagen
on 05 Feb, 2010 09:46
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actually the gears on the shaft and the vac pump are different.
the IM shaft itself is identical, the gears are just pressed on, but the gears on the end are different gas to diesel