1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project - page 12 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#165 by truckinwagen on 16 Dec, 2009 18:59
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On an unrelated note I heard rumors of a guy that built his own cast iron head. 80 psi rings a bell
now thats what I want!
any details? -
#166 by burn_your_money on 16 Dec, 2009 19:02
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He's on the forum and he'll post if he wants to.
Head girdles are something I have often thought about... not that NAs need them though... -
#167 by NintendoKD on 16 Dec, 2009 22:23
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what is a head girdle? see, now you gots me all confuzed like
still would like to know how this meth injection setup would consist of directly ported into the intake mani? can I use a gasser system or would it be special order or something? nos is cool and all but just too volatile seen heads pop off a 350 mouse motor on the strip with nos and head studs....... just blew right off........ took the hood and everything. That scared the crap outta me then and it wasn 't even my car couldn't imagine if it had happened to me. 
still no word on a boost pin swap?
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#168 by truckinwagen on 16 Dec, 2009 22:41
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I have looked into a head girdle( a metal plate to spread the pressure of the head studs across the head more evenly), but the head would require extensive milling to make one work well, and then custom studs would be necessary too.
an iron head would be the shizz, but would need to be custom and would cost big $$
the meth setup is pretty simple, but some of the parts re hard to get, I priced it out and by the time I got everything the kit was the same price.
A gasser meth kit will work, they are triggered by boost pressure, which works, but I am triggering mine by EGT this time around.
it should spray into the intake plumbing somewhere where it will be evenly dispersed to all the cylinders(and must be post intercooler if you have one) -
#169 by Rabbit on Roids on 17 Dec, 2009 09:37
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what is a head girdle? see, now you gots me all confuzed like
still would like to know how this meth injection setup would consist of directly ported into the intake mani? can I use a gasser system or would it be special order or something? nos is cool and all but just too volatile seen heads pop off a 350 mouse motor on the strip with nos and head studs....... just blew right off........ took the hood and everything. That scared the crap outta me then and it wasn 't even my car couldn't imagine if it had happened to me. still no word on a boost pin swap?
but you are not going to be shooting any extra fuel in with the nitrous. thats how you get the head blowing off. the extra fuel is injected through the injector. all methanol does is act as a chemical intercooler, it cools the air as it mixes with it. and it burns at a much lower temp than diesel, resluting in lower egt's and more dense air charge for more power. the methanol doesnt add power, it cools the air and the cold air adds power.
nitrous is also a chemical intercooler, but also an oxidizer. so when it burns, it also produces more oxygen as it burns. so it makes the air cold, and makes more of it.
make sense?
and why does everyone worry about swapping boost pins? take yours out and grind on it, that way you already have the pin, you dont have to spend any money, and then its done. -
#170 by NintendoKD on 22 Dec, 2009 22:46
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ok, so I got the idea to use a 1000 watt block heater combined with using an oil heater. The dry sump is still on the drawing board they make kits for big cars to weld together reclaimer pans etc. so I'm thinking with one of those kits and some intuition I can make a damn good dry sump/ reclaimer pan with baffle. oil lines are going to get a little messy now "damn spaghetti" how should that run? oil pan to the turbo to the cooler to the res. back to the oil pan? gonna need a monster of an oil cooler for this thing
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#171 by Rabbit on Roids on 23 Dec, 2009 10:07
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have fun... its gonna be a royal ***. there isnt enough room under the hood for everything. twin turbos? dry sump oil system? intercooler pipes. wow. i thought mine was a cluster F***, but i only got intercooler lines, nothing else. so, have fun getting it all to fit.
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#172 by NintendoKD on 23 Dec, 2009 19:00
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nah, twin turbos? I should go ahead and say it now, I will go another route just unecided at the moment looking at the 16/24 hybrid though, rare, but doable
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#173 by NintendoKD on 23 Dec, 2009 22:07
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I know, I'm full of these. Couple of questions. First, I was wondering, since I am putting in a dry sump, would it be wise to mill in a hole and tap into the oil return line to go back to the pan? or perhaps into the block/oil galley and if so what benefits/risk would be involved? Second, which head gasket shoould I use? P/N's? I was thinking metal because of the already low static compression but I need a guage to measure piston protrusion to know for sure. Thanks guys.
Happy holidays,
Kevin -
#174 by rabbitman on 23 Dec, 2009 23:49
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The oil pan heater's main duty is to help thin the oil and help the engine build pressure faster, I don't think it'll help with cold starting.
The biggest resistance is the oily pistons sliding in the oily cylinders, the block heater will take care of that.
And for your engine the reason for needing a block heater is to minimize heat loss/add more heat in the pre-chamber area since you're running a lower CR. -
#175 by NintendoKD on 24 Dec, 2009 09:20
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That I understand, I just did not understand if an oil pan heater would help at all. Thanks for the heads up.
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#176 by Rabbit on Roids on 24 Dec, 2009 09:37
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i know where those pistons are, but im not telling
an hour drive and 200 dollars isnt a bad price for 4 brand new mahles is it?
and also kev, have you thought of going the mTDI route yet? you are getting awefully in depth in this build, try a tdi maybe? -
#177 by NintendoKD on 08 Jan, 2010 00:21
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Ok, so I took the 1.6 turbo bottom end apart, I also cleaned the block and crank, I will proceed to clean everything else tomorrow, I stole some snapshots in the dark after I brought everything back home. I plan to take the block to be hot-tanked. Doesn't need a line bore but I'll check the tolerances and order a re-ring kit with gaskets, and bearings, I will also be ordering the main studs from arp as well as the head studs, I already got some rod studs from another member "thanks". I have seen some unusual crusting on a number of things inside the block, as well as some surface rust in various places, other than that looks good.
This first group is from the pistons/rods, they are all dirty, and not in the usual way, there is sand in the skirts of the pistons, and the crust I mentioned earlier is photographed in detail.
someone took the time to label all of these, and I believe that this particular engine has, in fact, been worked on before.
the crust, I am told that this is dried diesel and doesn't effect performance or otherwise, it looks to me like some sort of corrosion or oxidation
next section is of the cleaned block, I took it to a place and scrubbed it in their solvent tank, this particular one is seasoned so it leaves some residual/protective oils
I took special care to clean the main and oil decks, you cannot see it here but the person who put the thing back together the last time just loved gray RTV he used on EVERYTHING!!! PITA to remove completely, whatever he used it worked "kinda curious to know what it is"
I took close-ups of the crust on the oil pump cam and elsewhere inside the block, once again please let me know if this is a life-threatening condition.
I noticed something strange, the bearings were all the same except for one, the following three pictures are of which main the difference, and the place on the crank that wore differently than everything else, is this normal?
These next pictures are of the deck, properly cleaned as well as the beautiful bores, no.1 has some oxidation from moisture possibly?
This is cyl no.1 if you look closely I have a closeup on the oxidation
next is the crank I have a question about this too, I have heard here on the forums that the crank nose is an achilles heel to these engines where the key is concerned if so do I have one of said weak keys?
if you look in the picture above, I have an I/R 3/4drive impact, I know what you are thinking, "why in the world would someone need an impact like that???" Lemme put it to you this way "FOR WHEN IDIOTS USE RED LOCTITE TO PUT THE CRANK BOLT BACK IN!!!"
Last one, the crank does have some surface rust, and I will have to get to a groove in the rear main and rub her down, but other than that everything looks good, now all I need is some plasitguage to measure things out and I can order the parts.
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#178 by NintendoKD on 08 Jan, 2010 00:26
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What kinda pistons we talkin bout??? The kind I just might want? for a price that's just right? whaddaya say there rabbitonroids?
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#179 by Rabbit on Roids on 08 Jan, 2010 09:54
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no, thats the thing, im not telling. i wasnt kidding around.. i want those pistons. only set of 1mm over size ive ever seen for sale. besides, if i drive up to the guy and buy them, im not going to ship them off to someone else, sorry. if they were a little more available, i would hook you up no problem.