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#105
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:54
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no, im not basing it on old beetle engine cases. basing it on personal experience. my family fabricates aluminum boats. big ones. and we have used copper pipe and copper anti sieze on/in them, but not with the best of results. copper and aliminum do not agree. even a copper pipe clamped against aluminum will begin to eat both surfaces. just because the warning label doesnt say something, doesnt mean it wont actually do it. trust me on this andrew, it does have a chemical reaction. not over night or anything, but it happens.
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#106
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 09:03
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ah, well boats are in contact with water(sometimes with salt in it) and corrosion is a bigger issue with them than most everywhere else.
I use the aluminum based stuff because it is easy to get, and in my experience is just as good as copper, and can be used with magnesium(my automotive life started with beetles, so it was an issue there)
-Owen
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#107
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 10:58
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adding water(especially salt water) to the equation will change the corrosion quite a bit.
aluminum boats in salt water need to have a sacrificial anodes to keep the hull from corroding into oblivion, so maybe the aluminum/copper interaction in the presence of an electrolyte(turns into a battery)
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#108
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 12:16
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Triple square? I have been using torx t55 or something along those lines "probably why the thing snapped on me" ok need some of those and I now have a good list of special tools needed to assemble/dissassemblt these engines. I was also looking at oem parts, rabbitonroids mentioned before in this project to use a metal head gasket, where do I get one of these? I'll have to get a triple square set from the matco tool truck on thursday. I also need a pneumatic valve spring compressor to take the old aaz valves out to have them ground and clean/port the head. I must apologize for all of the performance related questions, I like to measure twice and cut once, I'm that guy that goes around his car and kicks all four tires before driving anywhere.
thanks again,
Kevin
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#109
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 12:19
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well you are now part of a community that pops the hood after parking regardless of whether it needs to be done, just to be sure that everything is still there.
the metal head gasket is from an AAZ motor, its a 1.9 IDI from canadian MK3's
the AAZ gasket can be hard to find in the us, but there are a few suppliers on this board that can get them.
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#110
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 12:31
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good to know, any place in particular I should shy away from? the reaction mentioned before is called an electrolytic reaction between copper and aluminumt he difference in the valence electrons create it with a solution as a transferring medium. You are correct, it is essentialy what happens in a battery, the difference of two potentials. It will occur on our engines and components under the correct conditions, which is why you don't hear of success stories where people use these engines in any marine applications. It should also be noted, I just learned this, is that you have to change out the compression washers in the injector wells everytime you remove them. I will need technical data/ torque specs because I am using mixed parts here, is anything different? all I have to go off of is the bentley I have for the 1.5.
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#111
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 13:08
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yes the injector "heat shields" need to be replaced every time you pull the injectors.
the torque spec is 50 ft-lbs, and the wrench should always be pushed into the head, never pulled away from it.
pulling away from the head can crack the bosses in the head, and they are not really repairable.
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#112
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 17:01
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wealth of knowledge gained here folks, all of this is going into the buid thres to come next, as promised are the pics.
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#113
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 17:23
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#114
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 17:56
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#115
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 19:26
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what calculator are you using to find out the comp ratio? does the metal head gasket make a difference?
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#116
by
maxfax
on 02 Dec, 2009 22:43
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I was just using one of the generic calculators available on the net... I found a real good one that I wish I would have bookmarked.. All specs in metric and everything..
With the proper thickness HG metal or fiber shouldn't make that much difference I would think.... Maybe someone with more experience with those will chime in... Just remember, thinner than required HG is not a good thing.. Pistons tapping against the head make and awful sound..
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#117
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 22:51
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well it isn't going to matter for at least a month, the wifey laid down an ultimatum, get rid one of the cars or else....
I have to rebuild the 1.5 and slap it into one of the bunny shells that I have, then I'm all set. I will se you all real soon, but I will stay here to keep info up on the build.
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#118
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 23:11
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I am not going to mess around, I am starting a list, of all of the things that I will need to make this work.
1.6 turbo long block: check
aaz head/ complete:
Have to choose which turbo either a vgt or vnt for sure. Until then I cannot choose intercooling options or exhaust mani or D/P, but the 1y intake seems promising.
new rebuild kit for the bottom end:
new vaccum pump:
upgraded oil pump:
dry sump oil pan "fabricated" gonna need some big help on this one guys:
arp fasteners, conrods and head studs:
metal head gasket:
water pump:
upgraded starter high torque/6v:
new tranny, havent looked at options for this yet either:
oil cooler:
replace all old worn out bushings in the car engine mounts, strut rubbers, etc.:
1.6turbo pump, send to giles:
send off "hot" parts to Jet hot to be coated with their good stuff:
rebuild the head and plug up the extra drain hole, grind the valves, seat them, clean the head, replace valve guides, head seals, port and polish,"before I put it all back together of course":
put it all back together, and put the engine and tranny in, hook up the glow plugs, starter, oil lines, fuel, intake/intercooler, exhaust, coolant, oil, tranny fluid, reconnect throttle cables and alternator wires etc. and I'm all set for the road.: whew! sounds easy but there is one more thing I have to do, document the entire affair with copious amounts of pictures and commentaries in the how to section.
thanks guys for the opportunities to work with some truly greats,
Kevin
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#119
by
745 turbogreasel
on 03 Dec, 2009 02:44
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Vac pump is rebuildable, and the kit is not too spendy.
