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#90
by
NintendoKD
on 01 Dec, 2009 18:34
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There are guys who have done this with aftermarket rods in other engines. I'll tell you what, if someone wants to try it, I will give them my working 1.5 engine if something happens, in case the worst happens. any "good" machinist should be able to replicate the location and size of the holes given the original. these holes are pinsized and do not impact structural integrity as the internals are forged, or so I'm told. Been wrong before though, shoot, willing to offer up a whole working 1.5 for free if the worst happens, how many other blokes you know will do that?
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#91
by
NintendoKD
on 01 Dec, 2009 18:36
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are there any mods for the oiling/cooling system? higher pressure pumps/mods? more volume? reservoir? dry sump?
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#92
by
rabbitman
on 01 Dec, 2009 19:01
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are there any mods for the oiling/cooling system? higher pressure pumps/mods? more volume? reservoir? dry sump?
Myke_w sells a 36mm oil pump.
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#93
by
NintendoKD
on 01 Dec, 2009 20:37
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YEOWZERS!!!
cool, I want one, I didn't see any testimonials when I looked it up though just everyone that bought on seemed happy, What, if anything does it actually do.
thanks,
Kevin
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#94
by
rabbitman
on 01 Dec, 2009 21:12
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YEOWZERS!!! cool, I want one, I didn't see any testimonials when I looked it up though just everyone that bought on seemed happy, What, if anything does it actually do.
thanks,
Kevin
Pushes more oil
, thus higher pressure. I think it's a must with a turbo and hydrolic lifters especially if you have a turbo block with the piston squirters.
I bought one and it bumped the hot oil pressure @ 2000rpm from 30 up to 50psi with 15w40 delo, strangely it's back down again though
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#95
by
NintendoKD
on 01 Dec, 2009 21:29
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why the drop? something wrong? time to change the oil weight?
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#96
by
rabbitman
on 01 Dec, 2009 21:40
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why the drop? something wrong? time to change the oil weight?
I don't know, the drop happened last summer and now I have delo 10w30 so of course it's lower now 25psi @ 2000rpm, vw says iirc 28psi @ 2000.
I tell myself it's the gauge and that makes it tolerable
......it is weird though seeing the gauge say 40psi at speeds that used to read 65
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#97
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 05:40
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busted guage maybe? anywhoo I start the teardown of the 1.6 today after I get back home from work, and some much talked about pictures will be posted this evening. Everyone, I would like to take the time to thank everyone for their input so far, I want to have this thing on the road by x-mas, but I think everyone here knows how that goes.
thanks and Happy Holidays,
Kevin
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#98
by
NintendoKD
on 02 Dec, 2009 06:38
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okay, So I'm going to make a list of all of the special tools that are needed to do this, eventually, when this is finished, I will re-post the pertinent information into the how-to section of this forum for all to see. Can anyone give me "I'm not lazy, just want it in a central location" a list of all of the specific special tools I am going to need for this build. I am also going to post a list of items and prices and where I got them so that other people can do the same thing I did. Right now I'm looking through the parts place catalogue, but if anyone knows where I can get stuff cheaper or better components "cuz I'm willing to spend more for better quality/performance" then by all means do so.
Thanks,
Kevin
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#99
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:06
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dude, you dont need any special tools, you arent taking a VW and a ford and making one engine, you are just playing with legos. how many special tools do you need to take legos apart? you need something to hold the cam from turning, you need a head bolt socket, and you need valve adjusting tools. and yet again, im gonna say the same thing.
you are over thinking this. most of us have great luck with a COMPLETELY STOCK bottom end. this is not a small block chevy here, we dont have near the aftermarket parts. thats why most of us will stick with oem parts on our engines. we cant just go get fancy water pumps and fancy oil pumps and crap like that. you just have to figure out what other VW engine used the part you want.
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#100
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:14
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sockets for cv joints and headbolts(both triple square), torque wrench, bit of steel plate to lock the cam(there is a special tool, but I just use a bit of metal), dial indicator(you can use the one with a special adapter for the pump, but I use a regular one with a stand, it works great for timing the pump, and I can use it for other stuff too like checking piston protrusion).
the other thing I recommend is a good(and I mean good) anti-seize compound, I put it on every bolt that doesn't need a perfect torque(headbolts, rod bolts, and mains should not be anti seized as it will change the torque spec) all the bolts on the outside of the block really could use a slather of anti-seize. that way they will come out again without complaining.
I also anti seize the injectors before installing them, it really helps get them back out later.
-Owen
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#101
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:15
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oh, and a three arm gear puller will be useful too.
I have one from sears that holds its arms clamped for you, which makes it easier to use, worth every penny.
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#102
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:32
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anti sieze is a no brainer tho, i thought every mechanic was addicted to that stuff? DO NOT USE COPPER ANTI SIEZE ON ANYTHING ALUMINUM OR THREADING INTO ALUMINUM, it will cause a chemical reaction and both metals will start to disappear.
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#103
by
truckinwagen
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:41
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yeah, I use a aluminum based anti seize, that way I can use it on everything.
-Owen
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#104
by
Rabbit on Roids
on 02 Dec, 2009 08:48
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yea, the aluminum based stuff is good for most stuff, but for turbos and high heat applications use the copper stuff.