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#120
by
shorttimer
on 06 Feb, 2013 10:38
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^
^
^
Yeah! Multimeters are cheap, too
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#121
by
scrounger
on 06 Feb, 2013 11:05
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My version of lead battery 101:
Let your battery charge over night. Make it push closer to 13.5-14v while on the charger. Each cell on a new battery will be about 2.2 volts fully charged, since you can not measure the voltage of each cell you should measure across the terminals, A good battery will usually be about 13.2 fully charged. After over night charging, take off the leads, let it sit for 15 minutes and measure the voltage. It should be about 13 volts. 12.6 is a sign of trouble.
If you hook your (4-15 amp) battery charger to a low but otherwise good battery it should accept nearly the maximum amperage of the charger for some time maybe 2 hours gradually reducing. If the amperage goes down to a trickle in 20 minutes the battery is shot. Probably has at least one bad cell.
If your battery charger is say 2 amps, a trickle charger, it is designed to be left on for long periods of time. Many of the newer chargers are considered smart. They have a voltage regulator in them similar to the one in the alternator, They cut out when the voltage gets up to full charge for a typical battery.
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#122
by
jhax
on 07 Feb, 2013 13:15
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SUCCESS!! I bought myself a multimeter today, jump started the car and took it around the block and popped the hood. 14+V at idle. Unfortunately the belt slips horrendously under load (AC full blast, brights on, etc) and doesnt charge.
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#123
by
8v-of-fury
on 07 Feb, 2013 14:58
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Told you. lol
New belt, and possibly some new pullies.. or at least dress those ones.
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#124
by
jhax
on 07 Feb, 2013 15:06
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Oh happy day! I think ill let the battery charge up all the way tonight if I can, roommates arent too happy with my frivolous electric usage. Now that I havent driven in a while and taken free public transportation, i think Ill be driving my car less at least for a while until it starts getting around 100holy *** degrees again. That way I can save $45-50 a month and start collecting parts for my build. Thank you again guys for all of your help. Ill definitely stick around for a long time.
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#125
by
ORCoaster
on 07 Feb, 2013 19:59
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new members get pink dresses on their pulleys.
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#126
by
TylerDurden
on 08 Feb, 2013 07:01
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Congrats, jhax!
The alternator should be able to maintain ~14V under all loads, so some refinement may be in your future.
Keep us posted on any developments/results if you work on the pulleys, etc.
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#127
by
TylerDurden
on 08 Feb, 2013 07:07
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P.S. To be more precise... the alternator should output ~14V under full load at typical operating speeds. It is common to drop voltage a bit at idle.
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#128
by
jhax
on 08 Feb, 2013 21:38
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Ill get it squared away soon enough. One thing I have noticed though, when the engine is warm and I try to start the engine right up the new relay has a tendency to click several times before it starts. Not sue what thats about.
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#129
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Feb, 2013 19:03
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Sounds like a loose wire some place that is allowing the circuit to trip on and off quickly.
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#130
by
jhax
on 09 Feb, 2013 20:15
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Only while cranking though?
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#131
by
ORCoaster
on 09 Feb, 2013 21:28
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Maybe the sender is the problem. It is trying to tell the relay that the engine is cold rather than hot and now that you have a relay you can hear above the starter you notice it. Lots of shaking going on under that hood on start-up you know.
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#132
by
8v-of-fury
on 09 Feb, 2013 21:56
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'Ay matey, we still be on the scurvy path.
The side of the head, there is a coolant neck, in that coolant neck is a sensor. It likely has a female spade on it, unplug that. You will have to manually time out the glow-plug light, 10 seconds is usually enough for me up here in -10F.. so anything around there should be good.
See if the problem persists. If it does not, the sensor is bad. Get a new one.
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#133
by
jhax
on 09 Feb, 2013 22:31
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G'yarr that be true, it be one thing after another. Oh well cant be as expensive as the ***ing alternator.
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#134
by
jhax
on 13 Feb, 2013 12:01
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Okay seriously now...What the ***!?! Drive my car to and form class last night. Go to start it just now and the bastard doesnt even crank. It was running smooth, great, fantastic, no problems. And then all of a sudden, no crank AT ALL. What gives? My thoughts go straight to the ignition switch. I have battery voltage at the battery and the starter.