1980 Rabbit Diesel manual Project

[EcoTX]

I'm now trying to figure out what size o-ring the cold-start lever is because I'm certainly not going to spend $80 to buy the full rebuild kit just to use a few O-rings. I'll pull it again if I have to should it still leak from somewhere.

Worst case I'll open it up tomorrow and take the O-ring down to the parts store but I'd much rather just get the part number or correct size to be sure.

Where are you finding a seal kit for $80?

The official Bosch seal kit (DGK-126) is only around $15 and it has every o-ring, washer, etc to do the whole pump...

Better yet, if you only want those 2 advance piston cover seals, they are Bosch part number 1460210300 and only around $1 each.

Find a local Bosch retailer/shop and walk in there and buy the exact seal you need made for your pump, or the whole seal kit for not even $20.

http://www.boschcarservice.us/Pages/ForYourVehicle.aspx

Be sure to select "US/Canada Diesel Service Dealer" in the top right and put your zip code and mileage radius.

The Bosch shops I've dealt with will even drop ship to your door if you are out of town or one is too far away from you.

Those seals for those covers are not a simple O-ring, they are a specific shape and rated to literally be submerged in diesel fuel their whole lives.

[vanbcguy]

The cam belt won't matter. It is infinitely adjustable.

I never took the cam sprocket off. I just loosened the tensioner and slipped the belt off from the pump side. Plus the locking plate is there so it can't rotate. Car isn't in gear and has blocks behind the wheels so it's not rolling so the crank isn't going to rotate.

Any ideas on the o-ring I need for the lower left and right side?

If you didn't take the cam pulley off then you haven't timed the engine properly.

[acidtonic]

The cam belt won't matter. It is infinitely adjustable.

I never took the cam sprocket off. I just loosened the tensioner and slipped the belt off from the pump side. Plus the locking plate is there so it can't rotate. Car isn't in gear and has blocks behind the wheels so it's not rolling so the crank isn't going to rotate.

Any ideas on the o-ring I need for the lower left and right side?

If you didn't take the cam pulley off then you haven't timed the engine properly.

Why is that so important again? Why must that come off? I can see the flywheel TDC marks, cam lock plate fits like a glove and is securely in place..... Lock pin for the injection pump fit perfectly...

All I'm doing at this point is trying to seal the pump then re-install it. Then after verifying the leaks are gone, I'll pull the cover again and change the belt. I just won't do both at once. Plus if it does end up leaking worse I don't want fuel to get on the nice new belt. Seems logical to me....

So what am I doing wrong... I've read the Bentley and VinceWalden.

[vanbcguy]

It's virtually impossible to time everything properly without popping the cam pulley. You can't tension the belt with the cam pulley tight for instance - how are you taking up the slack with the tensioner without SOMETHING moving somewhere? One of the cam or crank pullies needs to move or there's going to be slack on the other side throwing your timing out as soon as you remove the locks.

[acidtonic]

It's virtually impossible to time everything properly without popping the cam pulley. You can't tension the belt with the cam pulley tight for instance - how are you taking up the slack with the tensioner without SOMETHING moving somewhere? One of the cam or crank pullies needs to move or there's going to be slack on the other side throwing your timing out as soon as you remove the locks.

Okay that's good to know. So I should just crack the nut on the cam sprocket so it freely spins without the cam moving.... Then put the pump in, and tension the belt before locking it down?

[libbydiesel]

If you are not replacing the timing belt, the cam was timed correctly before and you are confident that you can tension the belt correctly (overtight is very expensive) then you can avoid loosening the sprocket and can get everything timed correctly.

[acidtonic]

If you are not replacing the timing belt, the cam was timed correctly before and you are confident that you can tension the belt correctly (overtight is very expensive) then you can avoid loosening the sprocket and can get everything timed correctly.

Okay that makes me feel better. I am only replacing the injection pump right now, then once it proves to me it's not leaking anymore, I will do the belt and tensioner change and follow the guide for that another day.

Thanks for the reply.

[vanbcguy]

I guess I just don't understand NOT loosening it off. It takes about 3 minutes.

[theman53]

There are a couple big "ifs" with the if you are confident and if it was done correctly before. I don't see how you could be confident if you didn't even know how to time it correctly. If you are already there you should learn now and make sure IMHO. If you are off more than a tooth or 2 for sure you will bend every valve in the cylinder head and have to fix that and learn then.

[acidtonic]

There are a couple big "ifs" with the if you are confident and if it was done correctly before. I don't see how you could be confident if you didn't even know how to time it correctly. If you are already there you should learn now and make sure IMHO. If you are off more than a tooth or 2 for sure you will bend every valve in the cylinder head and have to fix that and learn then.

I'm going to be turning the engine manually a few rotations before I engage the starter. Bottom part of the belt is still on the crank and it's marked... I'm not terribly worried at this point because i'm not just going to start it up and cross my fingers.... I can also still see TDC perfectly lined up through the trans inspection plate so I think I'm good.

Appreciate the advice

[libbydiesel]

You don't show a pic of the crank sprocket/belt.  The fact that your v-belt is still taut in the pictures with the pump removed makes it seem to me impossible that you marked the crank sprocket and belt at the crank.  Your comment that the belt is still on the crank is incorrect unless you clamped it on there which again, is impossible if the v-belt is still in place.  Once the belt is removed from one of the other sprockets (pump) it will jump several teeth at the crank.  Once that happens, the marks on the belt for the other sprockets are misleading at best.

[TylerDurden]

acid,

The o-ring kit is only about 20 bucks from a diesel shop. The front mainshaft seal is another 18 bux.

It's common to change one seal and another starts to leak... they are probably all the same age. Better to change them all while the IP is out.

The IP woodruff key can fall out, down where the belt wraps the crank pulley. Be careful and use something to catch it if it does fall.

[acidtonic]

I called all 3 shops on the Bosch locator and every one of them said they don't have it and can't order it.

What a bummer... Also all this timing talk has me thinking I'll just retime it from scratch and completely pull the belt.

[acidtonic]

The o-ring kit is only about 20 bucks from a diesel shop. The front mainshaft seal is another 18 bux.

Every shop I call acts like I'm crazy to be asking for parts. "No sir, this is a *service* shop and we only fix vehicles here."

All the Bosch "dealers" can't even order a freaking part number.

Looks like I'm not getting any seals locally. Partsplace is the only one with a kit and it's $80. http://www.partsplaceinc.com/products/product-detail.aspx?sku=18053
I called them and asked if they sell the parts in smaller kits and the answer was they only sell that $80 kit.

Guess I have a lot of time to waste now.

[libbydiesel]

Have you changed the belt since purchasing the car?  I don't ever trust the PO on maintenance history and always change the timing belt before placing a VW diesel into service just as a matter of course. 

You can get the Bosch seal kits for a good price (better than many Bosch shops) from the seller angelofishes on eBay.  He doesn't currently have the DGK126 up for sale, but in the past, I have e-mailed him and he has gotten them for me for a better price than Southwest Diesel which is the shop most local to me.  Be sure to ask that he get the actual Bosch as he does have an unknown brand of DGK126 available.  Southwest will also ship the kits if you want to go that route.  The 17mm shaft seal is not included and if you want to get it, it is part number 1 460 283 312. 

As an aside, for anyone rebuilding a VW 1.6TD or AAZ pump, you can either get the DGK121 which is lacking the o-ring for the cold start assembly or get the 126 kit and purchase the aneroid assembly o-ring separately.  The aneroid o-ring is 1 460 210 347.