1980 Rabbit Diesel manual Project

[theman53]

I bought a cheap indicator a while back with 10mm travel and it didn't have enough travel to read once installed in my adapter. That is why I asked. I got my adapter from Jack the guy that owns the hillbilly forum.

[TimpanogosSlim]

 Huh. I'm having trouble envisioning how that happens. When i get some time i will try this one in my old NA pump

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

[acidtonic]

i heard somewhere that I could potentially run a tank of B99 BioDiesel and that may stop the leak in my IP by swelling the seals? Is there any truth to that?

[TimpanogosSlim]

I've heard that sort of thing before. Not sure if it's for real, or if it has a lasting effect.

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

[vanbcguy]

Biodiesel won't make seals swell... quite the opposite.  It'll clean things out quite well though.  Including any junk that may be plugging a leaky seal...

Pre-ULSD caused seals to swell; ULSD does to a certain extent.  Biodiesel does not.

[acidtonic]

Okay I got all the glow plugs changed without removing the injector lines! 

I also now think I have a 1.5 engine for sure... (look in the pics below for my comments on that)

To rethread the glowplugs without any room I used the rod end of a factory tire jack with the flat-head on one end and the curled loop of metal on the other.... I used the loop kinda like a support and was able to lower the plug down and slide it into the port on the head. Then I carefully reached between the head and the fuel line and was able to get my index finger and middle finger around the thing and thread it in one turn at a time. Eventually I figured out how to get each one in and out and it was tricky but entertaining.

For anyone interested here was my strategy.

Cylinder 1: Remove the timing cover and come in from the left side under the belt with a small wrench. Then the left hand reaches in and unthreads/catches it. Same for reinstallation.

Cylinder 2: By far the worst and hardest overall. 8 mm wrench going between the two injector lines and the head doing an 1/8th turn at a time slowly and surely. Painfully slow but even with a wrench that hits either side of the injectors leaving no room, it's possible. I used the closed end of the wrench so there was no slack. Then let it fall out and I used a magnetic tool to pick it up. For reinstallation it was a pain to get the glow plug back in because the cold start advance lever blocks it from going down. So first I hung the plug off a magnet connected to a long screw-driver, then lifted it up and started "swinging" the plug back and forth using only the magnetic forces to hold it to the end of the screwdriver. If done correctly you can "swing" it up and into the hole enough that you can use the loop end of the spare-tire jack tool to then hold it in place (or a coat-hanger)

Cylinder 3: Small swivel fits in between the right-angle injector hose bends coming right out of the Injection Pump. If you move the front coolant hose out of the way you can fit a small 6 inch extension and ratchet which lets you get *right* at the bolts making this one quite easy.

Cylinder 4: Painfully easy, just come in from the right hand side or go straight at it with an extension and ratchet.

Old and Busted....



New hotness...... (literally)













Looks like 90cid means I have the 1.5 according to this label.




Here is the small hose that is cracked and leaking bad. Next project when I get more time.

[TylerDurden]

Magnet tool is your friend.


Look for the engine serial number on the block:

[acidtonic]

Well I tried starting the car for the first time after completing the new plugs last night (too late to start it up) and it didn't want to start.

Seems like nothing has changed with regards to starting. I wondered if the plugs are turning on at all and I started checking out the fuse wired into the wire that goes to cylinder 4. I noticed it gets warm when the plugs are supposed to be cycling so I figured that was proof that the circuit is working. Guess I need more investigation.

I am starting to suspect either a bad ground or a bad battery. I put my trickle-charger on the battery and the charge light came on and didn't go off. Other idea is to check the temp sensor and try to unplug it then see if it runs the plugs long enough to start.

If none of that works I have some work in front of me. Considering the vehicle runs fine once started and the fact that it starts fine if the engine is warm or was recently running tells me the glow plugs must be the problem or a weak battery/starter.

Hope it's not because the motor is bad or losing compression. More to come tonight when I can get home to troubleshoot.

[libbydiesel]

I have timed it and it takes me less than a minute to remove and replace the injection lines.  It takes approx. 20 seconds of cranking to refill the injection lines once refitted.  Replacing the glow plugs without removing the injection lines is certainly possible but takes a lot more extra time than the 90 seconds of removing, replacing and bleeding the lines and is a whole lot less fun.

[acidtonic]

I have timed it and it takes me less than a minute to remove and replace the injection lines.  It takes approx. 20 seconds of cranking to refill the injection lines once refitted.  Replacing the glow plugs without removing the injection lines is certainly possible but takes a lot more extra time than the 90 seconds of removing, replacing and bleeding the lines and is a whole lot less fun.

I get it.... previous owner already tried and rounded off the bottom inside bolt pretty good on the pump. I'm going to have to get some channel locks when it's time for that and I wasn't exactly wanting to go down that path until I'm ready to pull the pump out. Then I was just planning on cutting that line and getting the pump out without messing with that specific bolt since it (and the line I believe) would have to be replaced anyway.

I just got a very nice high quality UPS battery from work that has some serious storage capacity yet its only 12 volts. I'm going to test the battery by just swapping this beast once charged in the car and seeing if that helps anything.

I'm getting closer. Today I was able to prime the pump and get the car to start popping a little when I try to start it without plugging in the block heater. Before the plugs were so shot that it never did that until I plugged the block heater in. With the new plugs "it's trying".

I used a meter and saw 11.5 to around 11.8 volts at the glow-plug end when it's warming up. Terminals read 13.8 volts. I'm not sure if it's normal but it seems to climb after about 3 seconds. Starts at like 9.5, then climbs up to 10, 10.5, 11, 11.5 then it holds around there until the full 20 seconds elapses and it shuts off.

I'm also wondering if my slow relay is perhaps partially to blame for this.... remember I only changed the plugs to new Duralights which I heard worked with slow or fast.

I'm just trying my best to get it to reliably start in the cold still so I can drive it around the block to work. What should I do if I'm tired of priming the damn pump.... can I put a coolant transfer hose inline and just pump that without needing to carry around diesel fuel? Any tricks here?

[vanbcguy]

Most UPS batteries have low current capabilities despite their high capacity. Something to be aware of.

[acidtonic]

Okay well it seems this battery made a difference. Car started right up even though it didn't feel like it was cranking slowly before. So far this battery as-is from work started the car way stronger than the battery that was in there.

Funny too because this battery registered exactly at 12 volts yet started the car stronger than an 880cca battery that was charged to 13.8 volts.

We have 6 of these batteries at work and I may just take another one home if they will let me. Bad ass battery.

I had to go purchase new terminals since this battery came with small 10mm bolts where the terminals would be. O'reilly's had the exact same thread size with a normal battery terminal for $3.

Here are pics for those interested. They told me this battery cost some serious dollars when new. No idea if that's true or not.

I'm going to try tomorrow without the block heater at all and see if this battery is able to get it going from a 100% cold start. I found the page by googling the part number and it's still going for around $180 so not bad for free. They quote 300 full cycles are possible which means this truly is a deep cycle. Nice

This is a genuine C&D Technologies UPS12-300MR rechargeable sealed lead acid battery with high-rate discharge design that guarantees an excellent performance in UPS applications. The genuine C&D Technologies UPS12-300MR UPS battery has 325 Watts per cell on 15-min rate at 1.67 Volts.

With a self-discharge rate of less than 3% per month, the genuine C&D Technologies UPS12-300MR UPS battery has an expected life up to 10 years in standby use and it can be used for up to 300 cycles at 100% discharge in cycle service. The genuine C&D Technologies UPS12-300MR UPS battery has no-leak construction and can be operated in any position.

[acidtonic]

Good news! I was able to just walk out and start the car this afternoon using the new battery and patiently waiting for 2 full 20 second glow cycles before attempting to start it. Last drive the night before was 10pm, then it sat until I was able to come home at 12 noon to start it. So in that situation it sat for 14 hours in 28 degree weather and then started without needing to prime the pump or plug in the block heater. w00t.

That was enough to make me think it's safe to drive to work. So I brought it in and showed the guys here. Looks like I'm almost ready to make it my daily driver

[libbydiesel]

I've started several IDI diesels in sub-0°F with a single glow plug cycle.  28° is balmy.  Down into the single digits, it should start within the first revolution of the starter.

[acidtonic]

I've started several IDI diesels in sub-0°F with a single glow plug cycle.  28° is balmy.  Down into the single digits, it should start within the first revolution of the starter.

I was actually nervous and just decided to do 2 cycles before even trying. Even then I had to crank it a few times. Remember my IP is leaking quite bad overnight and thus it must be using the first few cranks to prime the pump.

I'll try tomorrow morning with just one cycle and see how that goes. I'm still using the factory slow-relay that came in the car when purchased. I don't mind waiting 20 seconds as long as it's a for-sure start.

So next up I'll start trying to figure out the heat situation. Do you guys know what fuse that is off the top of your heads? I'm hoping just the fuse is blown but I'm not sure what to do if it's not.

I also see some wires going to a little dial knob under the dash by the shifter area. Has F on the left and R on the right. Not sure what it does or is for. Perhaps audio/fade front to rear?