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#60
by
bbob203
on 03 Oct, 2012 11:58
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I just do that everytime I do a tbelt way easier to get belt on and off.
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#61
by
8v-of-fury
on 03 Oct, 2012 14:36
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Oh for sure. Take it off first and put it on last.
Get all the slack to the cam area then put the cam pulley in place. Dunzo. Also gates is top notch.
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#62
by
bbob203
on 03 Oct, 2012 15:27
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got the belt on timed it up again. pump timing is spot on. still not pulling fuel in when cranked and i cranked it more know then i have before today.

flooring it.. vie turned up the fuel screw at least 1 turn. kind sorta sounds like it wants to run.
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#63
by
bbob203
on 03 Oct, 2012 15:36
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cranked in fuel screw a total of 5 or so turns and it bottomed out. its also making a sound like a hoarse duck quacking sound wich I have heard on these engines before.
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#64
by
srgtlord
on 03 Oct, 2012 17:26
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Im gonna say pump 180 out
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#65
by
bbob203
on 03 Oct, 2012 17:39
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i guess ill test it out. kind sketched about trying to rotate in 180 and getting it right.. if that doesn't work i guess ill put my eco pump back in and use this thing as a 300 dollar door stop.
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#66
by
745 turbogreasel
on 03 Oct, 2012 19:43
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Am I missing the part where you got fuel out of the delivery valves?
If not, there is no need to worry about 180 out yet.
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#67
by
bbob203
on 03 Oct, 2012 19:46
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ah yes i forgot to re-check that. But since im still not sucking fuel in thru the inlet id guess no. I did swap delivery valves with the ones from my eco pump. maybe this is my issue?
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#68
by
srgtlord
on 04 Oct, 2012 05:42
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If it sounds like it wants to run the only way that can happen is IF there is fuel being delivered to the injectors.
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#69
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Oct, 2012 08:51
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i guess ill test it out. kind sketched about trying to rotate in 180 and getting it right.. if that doesn't work i guess ill put my eco pump back in and use this thing as a 300 dollar door stop. 
you paid $300 for an as-is (not re-sealed even) pump?!
there are 2 holes for the timing pin to use.. and the pump can even be timed 180* off internally..
if you install the cam plate upside down, the whole pump is 180* out, even with the pulley on the mark.
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#70
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Oct, 2012 08:52
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ah yes i forgot to re-check that. But since im still not sucking fuel in thru the inlet id guess no. I did swap delivery valves with the ones from my eco pump. maybe this is my issue?
eco delivery valves are totally different tho, are they not?
i thought you had to use the lines, and DVs to make everything line up happy?
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#71
by
bbob203
on 04 Oct, 2012 08:53
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NO it was re sealed by jeremy.
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#72
by
bbob203
on 04 Oct, 2012 08:56
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They did look a little different internally but Andrew said they still operate the same and swapping them would be no big deal. I had to use them because 2 of the lines on my engine weren't long enough to accomodate the td pumps shorter valves.
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#73
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 04 Oct, 2012 09:05
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JEREMY!!
whats wrong with this fine gentlemans pump?!
i know you would never put a compromised vane assembly, or pump eccentric into a pump you are selling..
think you used too much vaseline?
well, now, being that i KNOW the pump is good, you might try feeding it with a lift pump just to get it running.
you have to get it to where it will pull fuel on its own tho.. if the vane pump never works, then it never advances timing..
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#74
by
srgtlord
on 04 Oct, 2012 10:11
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I have a facet low pressure pump from napa. It cost me $45 4 years ago so im guessing its about $60 in todays dollars. Go get one. I was one of Jeremy's first customers and noticed the pump took a little bit of help from the low pressure pump until it would pump anything from 2 of the 4 delivery valves. After that issue was squared away I noticed my car was close to impossible to start. I found out he accidentally flipped the orientation of the pump internals. I had to purchase an old style pump pulley from ebay to retime my pump by flipping the new pulley 180 degrees. Now I can bet dollars to doughnuts that because jeremy built this pump after mine that your pump is NOT 180 degrees out.