Lock up

[ORCoaster]

Well, eliminating the possibility for a fuel delivery problem is only part of the solution.  Your testing proves the pump is pumping and the injectors are not plugged.  So on to the next square.  I suspect timing first and amount later.  It races so you know that volume is not the issue. 

The question was asked about clear fuel line.  The poster is hinting at air visible at low RPM I am guessing.  Mine will do that after a long haul,  It cranks it out without a problem but where it is coming from is a mystery to me.  I may need to reheat the copper washers after I replaced the fuel filter and had to remove the whole bracket to do so. 

Time to re-time and adjust.  Something got hot, and slipped the belt?  I would confirm timing. 

After that I might start looking at the IP for a restriction at low RPMs, a piece of o ring or something.  Do you have a way to measure pressure of the pump.  If not then you have to go with volume over time and consider that to equal good pressure.  Someone correct me if I am off on these numbers, 625 ml in 90 secs at idle of 750 RPM?

Don't you just love this crap?

[theman53]

How much oil is on the stick?

[burn_your_money]

Bypass the tank and all the lines before the filter and run it off a jerry can. Check to make sure your intake isn't clogged up with a bird or something.

While you have the injectors out do a compression test.

Were any of the injectors covered in oil or black/wet when you took them out?

[grape ice cream]

Bypass the tank and all the lines before the filter and run it off a jerry can. Check to make sure your intake isn't clogged up with a bird or something.

While you have the injectors out do a compression test.

Were any of the injectors covered in oil or black/wet when you took them out?

The oil level was higher than full, at about where the dipstick spelled full and had a line it covered the word full, i did drain the oil though and replaced it with the proper amount and tried starting it again with the same problem.

I did also retime the car

I don't believe the injectors had oil on them just some diesel fuel and the fuel filter is new, less than 500 miles on it.

So I should probably do a compression test and/or get a cup of fuel that the injection pump takes out of to bypass the tank to elimate any clogged or leaking lines.

What is the easiest way to do a compression check?

[R.O.R-2.0]

Bypass the tank and all the lines before the filter and run it off a jerry can. Check to make sure your intake isn't clogged up with a bird or something.

While you have the injectors out do a compression test.

Were any of the injectors covered in oil or black/wet when you took them out?

The oil level was higher than full, at about where the dipstick spelled full and had a line it covered the word full, i did drain the oil though and replaced it with the proper amount and tried starting it again with the same problem.

I did also retime the car

I don't believe the injectors had oil on them just some diesel fuel and the fuel filter is new, less than 500 miles on it.

So I should probably do a compression test and/or get a cup of fuel that the injection pump takes out of to bypass the tank to elimate any clogged or leaking lines.

What is the easiest way to do a compression check?

take the injectors out, and use your DIESEL compression gauge..

[8v-of-fury]

I did also retime the car

You took the valve cover off and made sure that when the bottom end is at TDC, as visible through the timing plug, that the pump and cam were also at TDC?

What did you time the pump too?

[grape ice cream]

injectors are out but i do not have a DIESEL compression gauge handy but might pick one up later this week,

and yes the valve cover was off and both of the first cylinder cams were pointed upwards,  I timed the IP so the notch on the gear lined up with the one on the actually injection pump

[ORCoaster]

I think V-8 was looking for numbers.  .89MM or 1.03 something off a dial gauge you put in the back of the IP and determine in addition to the line up of the marks.

[grape ice cream]

Okay is this a special dial gauge or something?
as far as i know it'd be a zero wouldn't it if it was all at tdc?

[ORCoaster]

burn yo bucks don't blow a gasket here.  Grape ice Cream go to FAQ in the English section and scroll down to timing and pick up on a couple of the reads.  It is a measurement procedure you have to do with a specific tool to find a number that gives you an idea of how you compare to the suggested setting the VW designers used for the IP.  This measure is a baseline you use to set the pump.  Changes in pump position, towards and way from the engine and off the direct line where you have the two marks lined up on the pump and bracket results in timing being advanced or retarded.  You need a baseline or reference for you engine performance to be optimal.

Whew. what did he just say?

[burn_your_money]

burn yo bucks don't blow a gasket here. 

Me? What?

[ORCoaster]

I may have you confused with another BYM but someone will generally jump out and point out the multiple links to how to "time" the IP and the need for the dial measurement and what it should be. If this is not you I recant the statement above.  Your gaskets are fine.

[grape ice cream]

okay thank you I read a write up on it and I should be able to time it to around 1.00mm

But I was wondering if this could even cause my car to not run unless its at about full throttle and even then it will only got about 5MPH?

[R.O.R-2.0]

burn yo bucks don't blow a gasket here. 

Me? What?

Tyler is one of the most pleasant, level headed users on here, as far as im concerned..

[burn_your_money]

But I was wondering if this could even cause my car to not run unless its at about full throttle and even then it will only got about 5MPH?

Those symptoms sound like the pump is 180 out, or severe fuel starvation.

Thanks ROR