Lock up

[wdkingery]

Wow I do get it..
I assume cam timin to be right, and as it has been for me.. It's never moved or i've never had a reason to loosen it.
He'll I don't know what I'd do if that came loose. Guess id find that 11mm yall speak of

[ORCoaster]

If your car is running right with your described procedure and getting good mileage then keep doing it.  Oh and start buying lottery tickets because you have "got IT" when it comes to blind luck my friend.  The rest of us struggle with the mm of getting it close and you just seem to do it without said difficulties. 

Some time life is just not fair! 

[R.O.R-2.0]

Yeah, I would think with all the trouble we do have trying to get to that magic moment when it all lines up and sounds right that leaving the IP loose at the tension time would be a little risky.  Maybe getting the belt at the right tension, to the half twist point doesn't put enough of a pull on the IP pulley to make it move that much.

Going to take me a longer weekend trip to Idaho this coming weekend.  Paint on the Project car.  Looking to surpass that 46.1 average I have going with Kingery.  His average is tanking now that he played with the pump I see. Touchy lil devils they are.  I did the same over the weekend and lost 2.5 mpg.  Gotta stop messing with it.

i read that and laughed out loud hard enough to cause other to take a stronger look at me LOL

i just dont .. i don't use any "lockin tools" not for the cam, pump or nothing.. i mean you don't get a "lockin tool" for the crank, but you still manage to keep that in the right spot (and you cannot even see that pulley durin timin, or at least i cannot)

i just get the cam where it's even across it's "lock spot," and then there's a mark to line the right tooth up for the pump, and then there's a mark to line up the  crank.
once i have them all lined up and i get the belt on, i spin the motor 1 revolution, recheck my marks, lock the cam tensioner down, then proceed to timin the pump.

i guess i've done enough mazda timin belts that i've got a feelin for if i've got the right tooth or not.

or maybe the lockin devices are for a different procedure?

you just are NOT aware how important the locking tools REALLY are apparently..

you can get by without locking the pump, but i ALWAYS lock the cam.. it never seems to stay where i want it without the lock..

[nathan_b]

If you really think about it, if you have 3 pulleys and are going to tension them, AT LEAST 1 HAS to move.. So if you are eyballing the cam to be at tdc, THEN tensioning it, something HAS to be off. To "eyeball it" correctly, you have to eyeball the cam slightly after tdc, and tensioning it will pull it (or the crank) to tdc.

[rabbitman]

I never lock the cam and I only lock the IP to hold the marks since the camplate is always trying to turn it.

Afterwards I check it over really good and make sure it's right and then turn the crank with a wrench 2 or 4 whole turns and check the marks again.

The only time I had a problem was when I forgot to tighten the cam bolt, after turning a quarter turn or so it went "thunk", and I had to redo it. But that's the reason for turning it with a wrench first.

[grape ice cream]

havent touched it in a while, but is it possible that the IP is going out and only draws fuel at higher RPM so it wouldn't run without WOT?
what do you guys think

[ORCoaster]

I just finished rebuilding a spare IP I have had around for awhile.  When I tried swapping it for the working one a while back it just wouldn't produce enough out the back to get it past Idle.  When I finally got it all tore down I found the front vanes were worn along the sides and keeping the little squares from moving out to get next to the side of the pump barrel.  So it was making very little pressure, like 15 lbs on the front side and next to nothing on the backend.  My guess is that one one of the four movable squares was doing duty.  I tried to tap in the regulator on the front side and it didn't help at all.

Now that I have the vanes free I haven't had the time to swap it back in there.  I really need some extra banjos for this sort of thing.  Then I could just run it off my drill and see what the result of the fix was. 

How old is this pump and when was the last rebuild?

So this car really hasn't run right since the fatal day pulling into the gas station? 

[grape ice cream]

As far as i know the pump is stock and has never been rebuilt there is about 200K miles on it and yea it'll run at WOT but only have enough power to go about 5MPH

[8v-of-fury]

Sounds like classic pump main shaft bushing/seal failure.. To be honest..

If it will still run, but only be able to sustain it at wot.. Means its probably sucking A LOT of air.

[grape ice cream]

assuming that how can i determine this should i take the pump apart and is there something i would notice? or can you only swap it with a known working one to see

[ORCoaster]

If it is sucking that much air your return line should be bubbling like a soda fountain.  Clear line attached to the return after the Out bolt should show air in lines.  Or is that already ruled out?  Didn't go back to thread beginning.