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#15
by
Otis2
on 10 Apr, 2005 20:06
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Great work, Jack!
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#16
by
fang
on 10 Apr, 2005 20:52
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Hi there Mark, I got your email. Man your work on the engine swap looks GREAT!!! I am very proud of your work! I also am the brink of buying another QSW just to enjoy it... There’s one for sale locally for about $500.00....
Does anyone know if the internals can be swapped between the two trannies? Swaping all the gears seems to make the most sense so there would not be a huge canyon between 4th and 5th.
I did a lot of research on this subject before you bought the car.
Most of us are familiar with German Transaxle in Bend, OR -- They're
supposed to be the best when it comes to this sort of stuff... Anyway, I had several LONG conversations with them about this subject, and after a bit of research on both of our parts they finally decided with a definitive NO. My memory is a bit foggy on the exact details, but it seems their sources indicate that there might be gear, but it is currently impossible to find one. Personally that sounds like utter rubbish to me, but my opinion carries much less weight around here. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Now I had a few thoughts. One is that the 2wd/Fwd VW quantum wagons had a shorter final drive, and thus had taller gears. I'll try to find my notes on this -- just a second and let me rummage through my filing cabinet.
<a few minutes later>
YES! I still have most of my old notes (along with my receipts for much of the work I did on the car before you bought it -- did you know I "freshened up” the gas motor?).
Ok I am going to scan some of my notes. There is enough data here to warrant a new post. I'll try to get all that up fairly quickly.
I'll be back in a moment.
-fang (steve)
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#17
by
jackbombay
on 10 Apr, 2005 21:23
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Tranny stuff is a low priority for now, but it would be nice down the road to get some taller gears in there for buring up interstate at 80 MPH.
I was a real PITA to get the motor to fully mate up to the bell housing, but there are a few bolts in it now so it is not going anywhere, satisfying for sure.
Oh, the throwout bearing was the source of the squeal, when I pulled the motor out all the balls fell out of the TO bearing :lol: . The clutch was just about done, I resurfaced the flywheel and got a whole new clutch kit ($180).
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#18
by
fang
on 10 Apr, 2005 22:20
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Dang, my server crashed, so I will have to wait untill tomorrow to post my scans of the notes. I think you might find them interesting.
-fang
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#19
by
jackbombay
on 10 Apr, 2005 23:36
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Crap!!!!!!
I have no clutch pedal, I'm thinking that during the engine install wrestling match the clutch fork got rotated on the sleeve the covers the input shaft to the tranny so the slave cylinder is not pushing on the clutch fork
:evil: :x
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#20
by
therabbittree
on 11 Apr, 2005 04:48
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argh that sucks ..oh well make sure all is good this time. Back in my rabbit thrashing days once the night before waterfest i pulled a tranny 3 times and never slept the whole night ha..it seems my lack off sleep let me forget the clutch pushrod plate for the rabbit clutch ha..got it all back together and pushed on the clutch peddle to start it ..nothing hahah,,that was a real mood changer - party pooping momoment..ha..had to rip it apart again..argh..a classic..i hope my quantum syncro td works well also.. as for a pita to pul or hook up engines..i seem to rember back when I stripped some foxes and 4cyl quantums i was a pita.. to pull the engiens out...hopefully i figure out a nie solution for that..removeable front valence or something..keep the pics coming..so far the worst thing i think will be going through and buying new brake parts for mine i',m sure theyr are expensive.. and dealing with any electrical gremlins..
good luck and keep us posted..
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!
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#21
by
MayorDJQ
on 11 Apr, 2005 06:11
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If it's any help, the fuel filter on my 5000 NA diesel was on the driver's side of the engine. Unfortunatly I don't remember exactly where. I think it had a bracket somewhere near the throttle linkage maybe.
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#22
by
veeman
on 11 Apr, 2005 06:41
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When I converted my Audi 4kq to a turbo motor, I had to relocate my battery as well (to clear the wastegate). I had to chop out the battery tray and then I bought a battery relo kit from Summit_racing:
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=307185&autoview=skuAt that price, the kit is pretty cheap, although in another car, I used a complete Audi 5000 battery cable and an Auto_zone marine battery box to do the same thing.
Anyway, I mounted a lug (from a stock 5kq) on the firewall to connect the starter cable /alternator, then ran the cables through the old a/c holes in the firewall. The battery cable snakes under the door sill carpets on the pasenger side, then goes back behind the rear seat.
In the 4kq, the battery sits in the pass rear section of the trunk...just between the frame rail and the fender. You'll have to make a new ground to the body at that point...
Another good idea would be to put a fuse between the battery and those long cables. I plan to do this as well...there's some reasonably priced large fuses around for this.
I can dig up some pics if you're interested...
Hope this helps.
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#23
by
jackbombay
on 11 Apr, 2005 08:03
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Thanks for the tips and link on the battery relocation.
The fuel filter did mount just down below the IP, but the filter was mounted on the motor mount that I replaced with the original quantum one, easy problem to deal with there though.
A removable front valance would be great for getting this otor in and out. I found rotating the front of the motor to the passenger side of the car then lifting was the only way to get it out. It was a little easier to get it in with the battery tray gone, but still a hassle, actuall getting the bottom of the bellhousing to clear the crossmember so the motor would be low enough to engage the bellhousing was one of the bigger issues.
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#24
by
jackbombay
on 11 Apr, 2005 08:22
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With regards to the battery relocation kit, a 2 gauge battery cable should be big enough to run glow plugs and the starter?
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#25
by
veeman
on 11 Apr, 2005 10:51
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It is indeed possible to "make" a removable core support to install the engine in that platform car. Tons of people do this. I found out from some members of an audi forum.
Essentially, you move the wiring, cut along the inside of the headlights (it's all non-structural) and then when you're done, you can reattach it all with some alu strips and bolts. If you paint the bolts, it even looks "factory".
FWIW, I had to have my engine in and out several times due to several issues and this made things a TON easier...
Here's some shots of my 4ktq:
...and on this one you can see the "tabs" I used to put it all back together.
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#26
by
chrissev
on 11 Apr, 2005 11:52
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YESSSSS!!!!!
Engine in car. Drivers side motor mount was different between the Audi and the quantum, it swapped right over from the old gasser motor to the Diesel though and is looking good now. Nothing unusuall or hard to deal with so far.
Still need to figure out, fuel filter mounting, battery relocation, removing an air box mount for turbo clearance, fuel pump removall, empty gas tank, etc... Maybe have it running next weekend???
looks like quite a bit of room there on the passenger side for an intercooler
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#27
by
jackbombay
on 11 Apr, 2005 18:21
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I looked at my grinder and welder :twisted: a few times while wrestling with the engine, but decided against it.
On the passenger side there will be little room left after I get the manifolds and turbo installed, but the drivers side has a lot of extra room in front of the radiator for an IC
. First I have to get the clutch sorted :? . I'm gonna go show it whos boss right now :wink:
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#28
by
jackbombay
on 11 Apr, 2005 18:24
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FWIW, I had to have my engine in and out several times due to several issues and this made things a TON easier...
I bet, I might resort to that still...
...and on this one you can see the "tabs" I used to put it all back together.
So the tabs are strong enough to deal with the load from the front motor mount?
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#29
by
jackbombay
on 11 Apr, 2005 20:28
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So I "made" a removable valence, and the engine came out nice and easy
, but there was nothing out of place, so I don't know why the clutch is not working :x . I'm thinking that when the engine was out and the clutch pedal went to the floor the seals in the master cylinder went farther than they had in a along time, into a potentially corroded portion of the master cylinder and ruined the seal. How do you check themaster and slave without the engine in?