VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: CrazyAndy on February 22, 2012, 09:08:08 pm
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Hey all.
I know I haven't been a member on this forum for a while or had anything notable to contribute yet, but I could use some help. I am in the middle of building an AAZ for my 1981 Rabbit, and am finding that the farther I go, the more I realize I'm not completely sure where to take this.
What I have so far
1.Already machined crank for TDI sprocket. Statically balanced as well (machinist said he'd throw that in).
2.Engine bored 0.5mm over, appropriate pistons (manufacturer is ARCO); will get gapless 2nd-ring Total Seal ring set.
3.Stock rods.
4.AAZ pump (will fine PN if helps)
5.Will be getting studs for everything (head, mains, rods).
6. Unmodified intermediate shaft(IDK, just putting it out there).
7. PD130 intake
8. Will be mated to CTN 02A trans for superior highway gearing; 228mm F.W.
Now here are the unecided variables
1. Cyl head; 1.6 hydro TD or AAZ?
2. Turbo; would like to run in a range of 17-24 psi, quick spool time preferable (can run EWG as means to this end)?
3. Injectors; stock or GTD nozzles(read that it's not much difference, but still just asking)?
4. I.P. tuning (Yes, I know of Giles of Performance Diesel, but does he/I need to know anything)?
5. Just, anything else a newb can forget or doesn't know?
I'd like to see at least 140 HP and 250 Ft-Lbs. Now I know that it's quite an open and generalized request that I am putting out, but I don't have much to go on. This will be the first engine I have ever built. There is ABSOLUTELY NO local VW scene much less any diesels, so I can't get a ride an a car with comparable numbers to my goals to see if It's what I should do (will be my DD BTW). And around here if the words Duramax Powerstroke and Cummins aren't heard, then the local diesel enthusiasts aren't listening. I'd just like to talk about the possibility and feasibility of my power goals as well as narrowing down some of my rogue variables. Sorry if this has been asked a million times before; don't have much time between 2 jobs to even post, let alone scour the forums' massive backlog of data.
Please help; I've bugged CRSMP5 enough about stuff, and I dont wanna make him angry. Now all his answers boil down to "vwdiesel.net, now GTFO" :P
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I would only run the aaz head on that. You may end up with way too much compression using a 1.6 head. Valves are bigger in the aaz too. Don't know about your torque numbers but the HP ones should be fairly easy to attain. If you use the arco pistons replace the rings for security sake. I would run a K24 off the old 1.6 TD's as the 1.9 should spool it even better and it will work well for your power numbers.
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I would only run the aaz head on that. You may end up with way too much compression using a 1.6 head. Valves are bigger in the aaz too. Don't know about your torque numbers but the HP ones should be fairly easy to attain. If you use the arco pistons replace the rings for security sake. I would run a K24 off the old 1.6 TD's as the 1.9 should spool it even better and it will work well for your power numbers.
Thanks, didn't know about the AAZ valve size; thought the 1.6 and 1.9 were the same in theat respect. It also would mean I don't have to port-match the PD130 manifold.
I forgot to say that I'll be getting 2nd-ring gapless set of Total Seals for this motor. Thanks for reminding me; updated the OP.
K24 is on my mind as well; I know it has quick spool, but can it hold around 20 psi? Also are there any external wastegate models? I can weld the IWG shut anyway, so it's not really as much a requirement as it would be a good-to-have.
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AAZ head. Bigger ports, and it was made for the engine.
k03 if you want super fast spool, but I think the k14 is a good balance (mine does 20psi at 2200rpm, hits 10 lbs bellow 1800rpm). I've heard you don't want the k03 pushing over 20 psi for very long.
Stock nozzles should be able to get you near your desired power.
I've heard nothing but good things about Giles. If you want your pump done up, he'd be the way to go. You might want to try running the stock AAZ pump with a 1.6TD boost pin and see what that does for you though. Or just turn the smoke screw until it won't idle for you and you'll be rollin'.
Intercooler would be a great asset at higher boost levels for keeping EGT's low and power output high. You'll want some way to monitor exhaust temps and boost pressure. Also, because you're putting a heavier engine with more torque into a mk1, you'll want to do some extra bracing around the front motor mount and the control arm ends. Obviously, if you're using an O2A, you'll be running 16v spindles for the larger CV's, so you'll have bigger brakes.
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I would only run the aaz head on that. You may end up with way too much compression using a 1.6 head. Valves are bigger in the aaz too. Don't know about your torque numbers but the HP ones should be fairly easy to attain. If you use the arco pistons replace the rings for security sake. I would run a K24 off the old 1.6 TD's as the 1.9 should spool it even better and it will work well for your power numbers.
Thanks, didn't know about the AAZ valve size; thought the 1.6 and 1.9 were the same in theat respect. It also would mean I don't have to port-match the PD130 manifold.
I forgot to say that I'll be getting 2nd-ring gapless set of Total Seals for this motor. Thanks for reminding me; updated the OP.
K24 is on my mind as well; I know it has quick spool, but can it hold around 20 psi? Also are there any external wastegate models? I can weld the IWG shut anyway, so it's not really as much a requirement as it would be a good-to-have.
didnt know they had a gapless second ring set for these engines now.. good to know.
and the K24s only came with internal gates.. the K26 came in non wastegate models tho.. yes, a K24 will make 25psi easy..
why do you feel it necessary for an external wastegate?
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didnt know they had a gapless second ring set for these engines now.. good to know.
and the K24s only came with internal gates.. the K26 came in non wastegate models tho.. yes, a K24 will make 25psi easy..
why do you feel it necessary for an external wastegate?
I have one laying around and just thought that it might help with spool times. I know it's kinda pennies on the dollar, but like I said I have it laying around. Honestly it sounds like it won't do much with how you phrased the question; I don't mind an internal WG, sorry if I sounded slanted.
And JamesT the reason I'd just send the pump to Giles is because I have no idea as to the history of this pump. I bought it from somebody on the 'Tex who had this for a projet but gave up and let it sit. Don't know if the pump leaks or is internally okay, and just being able to put a rebuilt Giles-ified pump on would be peace of mind. Wanna make Mk1 Madness, so would rather work with knowns than unknowns. I'll remember the GTD boost pin thing, though.
I'll also be getting an Aircraft Spruce pyrometer mounted forward of the turbine housing in the manifold, just behind the flange. Boost gauge will be added to the dash with the EGT gauge; would never think of running a modded TD without these.
K24 sounds like the way to go, with ability to turn the boost up 5 or 6 psi in the future if I wanted to. Now, to scour the FS threads . .
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If you get a Giles pump he will have a custom pin installed which will do more than the GTD pin. And yes definately you will be able to turn up the K24 as I ran mine for 40,000 miles with the boost set around 17-25 depending on the stage of the engine's life, most of the time it was 20+. It will be fine. There is a tutorial on how to lap the valve of the wastegate so you aren't loosing boost without the valve even being opened. IIRC it was an old thread circa 2004 ish by Jake'sgtd or jerrys or something. If the vavle is all carboned up you could block the wastegate and still loose boost since the valve isn't seating.
Just food for thought.
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I found a reposter version of what you are talking about, pics don't work though:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=13357.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=13357.0)
But thanks for mentioning that! That's why I started this thread in the first place; people here have such great ideas.
Anything I should know about the exhaust manifold for this turbo?
EDIT: Are you sure about needing 16V 'rocco spindles and brakes for the 100mm axles? I was told that the 100mm 'rocco axles would fit in the Rabbit knucle/spindle assembly, just would need some clearancing around the back so the 10mm outer CVs wouldnt bind on the inner knuckle.
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EDIT: Are you sure about needing 16V 'rocco spindles and brakes for the 100mm axles? I was told that the 100mm 'rocco axles would fit in the Rabbit knucle/spindle assembly, just would need some clearancing around the back so the 10mm outer CVs wouldnt bind on the inner knuckle.
You can clearance. It's been covered many times. But, you're talking about building a kick-a$$ car, and I figured you may as well do it up. The 16v knuckles have more meat on them, and would be a bolt in. I may have started to get a little out of hand with my post.
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Now here are the unecided variables
1. Cyl head; 1.6 hydro TD or AAZ?
2. Turbo; would like to run in a range of 17-24 psi, quick spool time preferable (can run EWG as means to this end)?
3. Injectors; stock or GTD nozzles(read that it's not much difference, but still just asking)?
4. I.P. tuning (Yes, I know of Giles of Performance Diesel, but does he/I need to know anything)?
5. Just, anything else a newb can forget or doesn't know?
Definitely keep the AAZ head. But port it and take down the lips on the runners.
My Garret T3 does 25psi in just a couple seconds in the right gears (gears that work well) with new seals and junk on it it works great.
Stock injectors and nozzles flow plently of diesel. Just make sure they aren't too worn or else they dont atomize worth crap!
Giles is insanely expensive. I've managed to get the numbers and performance i want without spending $1,000. In fact, I'd say if you include the cost of a screw driver and something i made a shim out of as free it didn't cost me anything. But while I had the pump apart I did replace some seals. 8v-of-fury has a great mod in his signature.
as for question #5
You will need to intercool the charge air on this or else the engine will melt. You will also need to make a free flowing exhaust. I use 2.5 inch ID pipe that splits under the rear seats and comes out infront of the back tires.
I would also recommend monitoring equipment for all your junk.
EGT(Vital), boost (as im sure you would want anyways), oil pressure (IMPORTANT), oil temp (ALMOST AS IMPORTANT), water temp if you want to be fussy and while you're at it knowing what voltage you're seeing isn't bad either.
As is such the case with any combustion engine its all about getting fuel & air in and exhaust out as easily as posssible.
If there are restrictions and you're throwing lots of fuel down it's throat you will run into expensive and likely project ending conciquences.
I hope everything works well for you but be prepared to spend a lot of time on it ... if you don't have time to cruise the forum this is going to be VERY expensive for you for something that for the same price could have been a lot "better". I like my diesel because I don't need specialized equipment and I can fix it my self with a little bit of time invested. But I have that time to invest... Just food for thought.
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Yeah I have a FMIC for this thing already, and I'll run a 2.5" exhaust system on principle. You can't get it in if you can't get it out. Didn't think of the oil pressure and temp gauges, I'll see about them.
And yeah, you do make a good case for giving the less-expensive DIY option before anything else; if it works then that's good savings, and at least I can blame only myself it if fudges up.
Finally getting back to the subject of axles, I have done some research and some vortex users have said that the EMPI axles for the 16v 'rocco will work out of the box, being already clearanced for the Rabbit's steeper inner spindle cup and thicker bearing circlip. I will be putting vented GTI brake assemblies in the front to help with the new dirvetrain's extra weight.
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empi axles are junk tho..
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if/when you tighten the axles nuts... 200ft-lbs btw.. if it locks the wheel it will be the true test... just be prepaired to do some grinding.. less then 5 min per axle to grind them.. 15-30 per spindel.. i ended up just hitting my axles on the bench.. i did new wheel bearings and all.. so could have done either way..
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In that case, I'll just get some 'rocco axles from a beter source than EMPI, and just clearance them off-car; the driver side bearing is crapping the bed anyway.
And decided on K24 turbo; WTB anyone who has one w/ mani.
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In that case, I'll just get some 'rocco axles from a beter source than EMPI, and just clearance them off-car; the driver side bearing is crapping the bed anyway.
And decided on K24 turbo; WTB anyone who has one w/ mani.
catlin has an almost full swap for like 250 bucks.. w/ k24 & mani included.
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In that case, I'll just get some 'rocco axles from a beter source than EMPI, and just clearance them off-car; the driver side bearing is crapping the bed anyway.
And decided on K24 turbo; WTB anyone who has one w/ mani.
catlin has an almost full swap for like 250 bucks.. w/ k24 & mani included.
Replied to that thread already; hasn't said if it's 100% sold to whoever replied before me. Then again haven't checked the thread in the last 15 minutes.
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i have one but it needs rebuilt and a new compressor wheel. bearings are fine and don't leak but the wg is stuck and the compressor wheel is knackered.
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i have one but it needs rebuilt and a new compressor wheel. bearings are fine and don't leak but the wg is stuck and the compressor wheel is knackered.
KKK w/ a stuck wastegate?!?! :o
you have got to be dry F-ing me!!!
lol, kidding aside, sounds like a decent rebuild candidate.. ;D
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you ever figure out if the o2a i have is the one you want?
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you ever figure out if the o2a i have is the one you want?
if he dont want it, let me know.. im KINDA in the market for a trans swap.. im tired of replacing 020 trannies..
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the issue is i not willing to ship it... LOL.. it would need to be freight in a wooden crate...
me and him had discussed meeting up at one point to do hand delevery.. and well the originizer of mk1 madness is interested in something i have.. so the posibility of meeting up for a duel purpose is greater..
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i have one but it needs rebuilt and a new compressor wheel. bearings are fine and don't leak but the wg is stuck and the compressor wheel is knackered.
KKK w/ a stuck wastegate?!?! :o
you have got to be dry F-ing me!!!
lol, kidding aside, sounds like a decent rebuild candidate.. ;D
I kno rite, lol. Sounds alright; PM sent.
And CRSMP5 I did forget; CTN right? Again, PM sent.
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CTN right?
Beauty 02A gearing.
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ohh yea.. o2a > then o2o on that.. only took me a mo to get him the tranny code the last time.. then i sent it to him in a text message to his phone.. no paper to write with when i was looking at it...
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So yeah, I'm just gonna go ahead and get that trans from ya. ;) MINE NOW! 8)
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Forward Air for shipping bulk items, check 'em out. Cheapest available. You have to deliver & pick up at their depots, which saves huge money over address delivery.
www.forwardair.com
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I don't think he'd want to do that either. He really only does pick-up. It is just his way. We'll work something out.
P.S. It's the weekend Trev0r. Pm holla back. ;)
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the problem with shipping a o2a conversion is the 40-80lb box of crap to go with it... you know flywheel, bolts, shifter, hydro parts.. starter... it all adds up.. and i would not wanna try to box it either.. and after all the tranny its self needs to be at min on a palet..
so reality is a CRATE with tranny/flywheel strapped down inside with all the other stuff loosy goosey inside..
i lack a "crate" or place to BUY one.. in the end a road trip costs less..
end of mar... toaster takes 6hr trip 1 way cross pa.. doing a double delevery.. going to south philly to meet up with mk1madness orginizer.. and andy meet up there... do some toaster cruizin as andy never got his ride last year.. and both people get their goods for less then shipping would be..
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the problem with shipping a o2a conversion is the 40-80lb box of crap to go with it... you know flywheel, bolts, shifter, hydro parts.. starter... it all adds up.. and i would not wanna try to box it either.. and after all the tranny its self needs to be at min on a palet..
so reality is a CRATE with tranny/flywheel strapped down inside with all the other stuff loosy goosey inside..
i lack a "crate" or place to BUY one.. in the end a road trip costs less..
end of mar... toaster takes 6hr trip 1 way cross pa.. doing a double delevery.. going to south philly to meet up with mk1madness orginizer.. and andy meet up there... do some toaster cruizin as andy never got his ride last year.. and both people get their goods for less then shipping would be..
Great to know that a flywheel is included also. 228mm?
And I finally get a toaster ride!
(http://inzombiac.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/csi_yeah_skyline.jpg)
I'm not sorry. ;D
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used clutch and all... else it would not be a conversion... there parts you will not need... like mounts.. but hell core starter if it too weak for a diesel.. rember gasser one included.. bolts so on.. the only thing with it that you 100% cannot use is the b3 pedals.. but yours if you want.. else i know someone who wants that.. good for mk2 hydro swaps.. no good for mk1..
id also do new hydro parts.. but used ones included for mock up at least..
one thing if i get time to hit the yard ill get ya a mitsu master resivore and bracket.. so you have a resivor for the hydro fluid.. what i used on mine.. they remote mount the bottle on them.. you can put it in the rain tray.. :D run the hose thru the rain tray drain.. they also hold a good 1/2 qt of fluid..
tranny also had abt 6mo mobil1 in it.. never drained it.. and was changed 6mo before car got hit.. any moisture build up will be gone after a good road trip of getting the oil up to temp..
flywheel.. all the hydro are 228... vr6 so on... i used vr6 one on mine.. no issues yet... the used clutch in this is my tdi one.. looks good and all.. wnted the extra a vr6 one supposedly has...
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Sounds fine, but I'm running cable clutch on this setup just for ease of install and TBH after owning 3 cable clutch cars and driving all the new VW hydro clutch cars I'm a bit of a cable snob. I'll def take that starter. You sure that used clutch/pressure plate will take up to 275 ft/lbs?
So yeah, just PM me w/ exact date/time when u know.
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Sorry to DP from like 3 months forward, but here's my status:
Okay I said that my next posts would have the parts in a more assembled manner. The next few pics will prove that was ony a half-truth. :P
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0003.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0002.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0001-1.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0005-1.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0567.jpg)
Finally picked up CRSMP5's trans! And got a toaster ride. 8)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0234.jpg)
Also got another head (thanks Catlin_Cava), but it needs milling due to pitting around the water jackets.
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0116.jpg)
You don't see the crank or intermediate shaft in here because the crank nose needs more work (dude cut the notch a little too much and I'm making him re-do it) and the IS is getting it's journals polished.
And to top it all off, a nice man named Giles called me; something about a pump and injectors being ready! ;)
ALso, the K24 was sent off for rebuilding to Blaast Performance; it's some place in France called Quebec. :P
Thought I'd say thanks for all the recommendations from you guys; the majority of the parts I picked up have been from a lot of others' suggestions and recommendations. Thank you, It really does help.
This is starting to feel like the recent Avengers movie; I'm just assembling a larger team. Hopefully my action scenes last a long time after this! :D
Not gonna set any more deadlines; down to a post-for-progress pace.
That's it for now.
CrazyAndy, out!
P.S.: Anyone got 0.717 gears layin' around?
P.S.: Isspro EGT gauge + micro1000 sensor = different type of wire ends. Help plz?
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That shifter rod linkage is the same setup I got on my truck. It works great. Just take your time and set them up with all new bushings and grease.
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Great to know somebody else has the Claus Von Essen linkage besides Alesowbugged. Did you have to do a lot of finagling, or did you just eyeball the shifter into 1st, set the trans in the same gear, and fiddle w/ the rods? I know the only non-opposite threaded rod is the S rod but still. I will get a new shifter bushing kit. What about the grease, would Wurth HHS-K spray-on grease be good? That's what we use at the dealership, and it helps bring creaky doors back to the quiet side.
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I have the missing linkz and it looks very similar. As for grease, I used what was in my grease gun, and I actually re did it the end of the first year.
The dealer may no longer have the tool, but there is a tool that holds the shifter in place and lets you put everything back in order. I marked mine and had to fight in and out of the car 4,053 times. Someone I think Libby, has a Cad or PDF of the tool. Someone said my old cassette tapes would work as a spacer, but I never figured that one out.
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I think you're thinking of a MK2 with that setup, dude. I guess I should have specified that this will be going into a 1981 Rabbit. I know the tool you mean, though; piece of metal with a notch that fits over a piece of the MK2 shifter box. My Bentley for the MK3 Jetta the engine came out of has the tool number in there, I think.
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In the book it says to use a 15mm bolt between the shifter and the lockout tab on the box. Then loosen the lever from the shaft just enough to move the lever freely, then tighten it down. Thats what I do for MK1's, work every time.
Is that rod linkage the kit from Germany? Green Grass Hopper Drag car?
Anyway, thats the kit I'm using.
I threaded all the end to the middle portion of the rods. I just started there. But once you get the bronze bushings in, you can unthread the rods to take up any left over slop and it will feel great! Not tight but just right. Sorry, kinda gross. ::)
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OKay, so I'm starting to think that customs might be doing an interrogation session on my ol' muhammad-bin-K24 that I sent in the mail to Canada for rebuild. Been over 3 weeks and no peep from the recipient. Starting to piss me off, but my fevered brow was soothed by the sight of this coming in the mail:
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_1044.jpg)
Aw yeah, you know what it is! Giles pump and injectors! WOOOOO!
If only he hung one of his shop rebuild cards on the pump; I'd leave it on for bragging rights at VW meets. 8)
Welp that's it for now. Later!
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http://www.xsboostturbochargers.com/ with 152 down i put link here too... as you can see webpage sux... why i drove 300 miles to check them out.. 75 miles each way 2x... well worth phone call... nice facility wit proper tools... 90% of his business is out of country too... :P when in old place guy that lived 3 houses away was told on some canadian forum to check him out... LOL.. did not know of place... LOL.. 3 houses away... LOL..
when bigger turbo on mine.. think l let hm redo it 1st... the vnt he did for me still working great.. looked new too...
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Not engine progress, but old engine is out as of this weekend! Literally dropped it out of the bay and pulled it out of the D/S wheel well. Took 5 hours, 3 dudes, and a lot of pre-disassembly and finagling due to us finding out out engine stand we just bought had parts missing.
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/vw003.jpg)
That's me in the engine bay.
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OKay, so I'm starting to think that customs might be doing an interrogation session on my ol' muhammad-bin-K24 that I sent in the mail to Canada for rebuild. Been over 3 weeks and no peep from the recipient. Starting to piss me off, but my fevered brow was soothed by the sight of this coming in the mail:
Could be worse, back in the late 90's I was parting out and selling Suzuki Samurais. The Canadian post thought a starter with the wiring was a bomb. They took it out and destroyed it so I only sell in the US now. :mad:
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OKay, so I'm starting to think that customs might be doing an interrogation session on my ol' muhammad-bin-K24 that I sent in the mail to Canada for rebuild. Been over 3 weeks and no peep from the recipient. Starting to piss me off, but my fevered brow was soothed by the sight of this coming in the mail:
Could be worse, back in the late 90's I was parting out and selling Suzuki Samurais. The Canadian post thought a starter with the wiring was a bomb. They took it out and destroyed it so I only sell in the US now. :mad:
While yes, I admit it was my fault for losing the tracking info, I honestly think international customs has a bug up their ass.
Now on to the progress. No crank yet but finally, my engine block is in paint!
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/blockback.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/blockfront.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/blockiso.jpg)
Painted with Rust Bullet. Two coats on the back and one wetter, as-of-yet still tacky coat on the front.
And before you sods get the wrong impression and think my engine block is a hipster, forget it; the bottle was used to prop the side being painted upwards for better visibility and less chance of paint runs, and the dull fake Italian switchblade was used in cleaning the painters tape off the block. They just found their way into the photo. :P
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it looks like you're starting to get some rust on the inside of your cylinder walls. i'd smear some oil on those surfaces pronto! (don't ask how i know)
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first time I have ever seen a bare AAZ block. I love that it has the little centering pins for the gasket and head. Nice little feature for those that don't have head studs. I can't wait to see it all go together!
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PRetty sure the gas 1.7, 1.8 and diesel early 1.6 and later 1.6 had the dowels for gasket and head alignment too. Atleast my 91 1.6 D had them, and my gf's 90 1.8 Gas had them.. lol
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PRetty sure the gas 1.7, 1.8 and diesel early 1.6 and later 1.6 had the dowels for gasket and head alignment too. Atleast my 91 1.6 D had them, and my gf's 90 1.8 Gas had them.. lol
they got them in 89, or 90..
NONE of my diesels have had alignment dowels..
the 1992 8v out of my Jetta had them.
the 1990 16v out of my other jetta had them.
the engine in my 85 GTI did NOT have them.
my MF turbo diesel DID NOT have them either..
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it looks like you're starting to get some rust on the inside of your cylinder walls. i'd smear some oil on those surfaces pronto! (don't ask how i know)
Thanks for catching that, I didn't even look at that part of the pic. I'll do that as soon as I come home from work!
And at 8v, my old 1.6D I'm replacing has no head alignment dowels, so what R.O.R. is saying is most likely true.
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I know my mk1 TD block, my 85 TD block, and the 86 N/A block did NOT have any pins whatsoever for the head gasket. I thought it was a MKIII thing, but glad to know the early 90's had them.
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I love learning all these tiny new tid-bits of fact about these cars and engines. Everybody on this site is just so good about sharing the knowledge that they have acquired to confirm or correct what others post. Just wanted to throw that out there! Thank you ;D
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I love learning all these tiny new tid-bits of fact about these cars and engines. Everybody on this site is just so good about sharing the knowledge that they have acquired to confirm or correct what others post. Just wanted to throw that out there! Thank you ;D
i LOVE sharing the knowledge that i have acquired..
a good portion of what i know, was due to reading this forum, or from hands on experience.
i dont mind sharing what i know, when others are open to listen, or contribute their own ideas as well..
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I love learning all these tiny new tid-bits of fact about these cars and engines. Everybody on this site is just so good about sharing the knowledge that they have acquired to confirm or correct what others post. Just wanted to throw that out there! Thank you ;D
i LOVE sharing the knowledge that i have acquired..
a good portion of what i know, was due to reading this forum, or from hands on experience.
i dont mind sharing what i know, when others are open to listen, or contribute their own ideas as well..
I agree; information is the key; and being here makes me feel like a high school janitor. ;D SO much great info, and a chance to share your own! Honestly if not for this site continuing with this rebuild would have be difficult.
And in other news, the machinist looks to have boogered up my re-bore. I used a digital dial bore gauge calibrated to 80.01mm to check bore taper and out-of-round. Here are my readings. Note all measurements are plus the above measurement baseline, and (H)horizontal is correspondent to viewing the block deck, with the front of the engine as 'bottom':
H V
C1
T 0.026mm 0.028mm
M 0.014mm 0.022mm
B 0.030mm 0.026mm
C2
T 0.034mm 0.032mm
M 0.016mm 0.032mm
B 0.032mm 0.030mm
C3
T 0.032mm 0.034mm
M 0.020mm 0.038mm
B 0.036mm 0.036mm
C4
T 0.028mm 0.026mm
M 0.020mm 0.024mm
B 0.036mm 0.032mm
After running some math on circumference of the cylinders (in inches on that), I determined that these measurements would increase any new ring gap (0.007"-0.015") by 0.001727"-0.004676", which I'll round/simplify to 0.002"-0.005"
So as it seems that would be the reason behind my recently-measured excessive ring end gap, which measures anywhere from 0.024" to 0.031".
Now I'll have to get the block bore out ANOTHER 0.5mm, to 80.51mm, but not by the same machinist. Really pissed right now. Why the hell can't anything NOT cost me more money? :evil:
NOTE: I'll admit I took these measurements with the main caps not torqued, but the top and bottom measurements I think speak for themselves.
Lastly, at least the piston skirts measure in correctly at 79.98mm exactly. Too bad it looks like I'll need another set. >:(
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May want to wait on that.
Swaintech coatings has a sandable/machinable coating for the skirts to take up excess slop. They told me with that coating you could possibly run std. pistons in an engine that needed bored. Just a suggestion, it is WAY cheaper than new pistons.
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/automotive-coatings/automotive-coatings-price-sheet/
PC-9 is the coating in question IIRC
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May want to wait on that.
Swaintech coatings has a sandable/machinable coating for the skirts to take up excess slop. They told me with that coating you could possibly run std. pistons in an engine that needed bored. Just a suggestion, it is WAY cheaper than new pistons.
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/automotive-coatings/automotive-coatings-price-sheet/
PC-9 is the coating in question IIRC
Well the piston clearance is not as much of a problem as the excessive ring end gap is, and the somewhat questionable out-of-round the cylinders seem to have in the middle. I figure I can maybe get some 1mm O/S rings and grind them down to fit; anyone done this to a ring set before? Bentley says the max deviation is 0.1mm aka 0.0039"", and I know I'm within that, but what do you think of that out-of-round? My main concern beyond piston clearance is oil consumption after break-in. I don't want anything potentially causing oil consumption, as I list building an engine and having it consume oil post-breakin as a failure. As for the pistons, It would be a good excuse to get full coating. ;)
ADHD version, I can get and make parts work, but with those measurements would it still be worth it, or just re-bore? I really wish my bank account could support this build pacing, but dammit! :-[
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I am in the same spot now with the 1.6 I have. The old machinist said it was at 2.0-2.5mm when I checked them this winter. New guy says 6mm, so I am buying klobenshmidt and having them coated as you cannot take up that much room. Mine also were out of round, but he didn't say how much.
I like you do consider it a fail to have the oil issues, so for me it isn't a question to buy the new parts. I just figured I would give you a possible option. I wouldn't like knowing I rebuilt an engine and it is 1/2 worn out already, when just another 500.-- or so would have made it new. Good luck.
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18hr since it let post last...... 2nd one...
situation sux... what did you find on the head surfacing issues?
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While those numbers stink (basically doubling the actual piston to cylinder new spec) then are only halfway to the wear limit. Definitely a legitimate cause to gripe but if the correct rings are supplied, the ring gaps should not be outside spec. I'd torque in the main caps and measure the bores again. The out-of-round and taper may get better with the caps in place as that is how it should have been bored. If the torqued caps don't help, then I would not hesitate to have a good talk with the machinist. To correct the situation, the total expense you're looking at (and basically what you are owed) is another set of pistons, another re-bore and the fact that you have effectively lost a rebuild (I have no idea how to quantify that loss).
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I am in the same spot now with the 1.6 I have. The old machinist said it was at 2.0-2.5mm when I checked them this winter. New guy says 6mm, so I am buying klobenshmidt and having them coated as you cannot take up that much room. Mine also were out of round, but he didn't say how much.
I like you do consider it a fail to have the oil issues, so for me it isn't a question to buy the new parts. I just figured I would give you a possible option. I wouldn't like knowing I rebuilt an engine and it is 1/2 worn out already, when just another 500.-- or so would have made it new. Good luck.
6.3mm is 1/4"
i hope your machinist is not saying that you have that much bore clearance..
are you sure he didnt mean .6mm?? that would make ALOT more sense..
i dont know of anywhere in these VW engines where there is 1/4" of clearance between 2 parts..
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I am in the same spot now with the 1.6 I have. The old machinist said it was at 2.0-2.5mm when I checked them this winter. New guy says 6mm, so I am buying klobenshmidt and having them coated as you cannot take up that much room. Mine also were out of round, but he didn't say how much.
I like you do consider it a fail to have the oil issues, so for me it isn't a question to buy the new parts. I just figured I would give you a possible option. I wouldn't like knowing I rebuilt an engine and it is 1/2 worn out already, when just another 500.-- or so would have made it new. Good luck.
Like R.O.R. said I think you're off a decimal point or two. If not, pics for epic block wear. :P
And I just remembered I forgot to mention in my original bore numbers post that the machinist DID torque the main caps for the overbore. I'm 75-99% sure now that may be the reason for the minuscule out-of-round in some areas, but I posted it just to see what others thought. I talked to my and veteran tech coworker today, and he says that since those measurements are A) taken without the caps torqued and B) are in the magnitudes of micrometers, such measurements are negligible pre-break in. I'm inclined to believe him, since he's been wrenching on VWs since the phrase "Volkswagen Radiator" was a parts counter joke.
Fixing the ring gap situation takes center stage along with the piston coating. Like I mentioned I'm running low on build cash, and if the method of tweaked rings and coated pistons brings everything into line, then I can handle it. The biggest proponent of oil consumption will be those ring gaps and having to spend more on another re-bore, new piston set and more rings is a lot more compared to rings and coating.
Time to be patient and see what will and won't work. I'm calmed down about all this now, so steady as she goes.
And CRS, I haven't even touched the head yet. I'll get the bottom end sorted out first before anything else.
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Sorry to double post, but some pretty good news (as opposed to prgress). My machinist says he will be able to spray weld the crank nose and be able to re-cut the sprocket D cut. Wish he didn't have such a back log though, might be waiting a few weeks for that. At least I don't have to spend bread on finding and aquiring another crank though.
Also solved the problem of a missing turbo by buying another.
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/PIC_0078.jpg)
As you can see it's a T3; thanks to sdubfid for the buy and theman53/trev0rbr for pushing me toward it. Probably gonna dig around pick n' pulls for a Volvo cold side before sending to rebuilders.
And the gears below that are my 0.681 5th gear swap I'm gonna be doing. 2675rpm @ 70mph, here I come!
P.S.: Found where the K24 ended up, in the north sydney undeliverable mail office. >:( Oh well, at least I can get it back in 30-45 days by submitting a return claim investigation through USPS . . .who talk to CP . . . . who confirm w/ USPS . . . . blah blah blah.
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Mike, you're looking for the turbo from a 740 or 760 I think. From mid to late 80s. That's a 50 trim, if u can't find that, then the t3 turbo from a Saab turbo dodge or Mercedes will work too. The best is the 90s t3 from Mercedes diesels but they are extremely hard to find and usually cost more than its worth to rebuild IMO because by the Time you're done spending money you might as well have bought a brand new gt series turbo or turbonetics t3. But damn that t3 u bought looks clean. U might want to just ask that xs place perhaps they could sell u a bigger compressor wheel and machine out ur housing for a decent proce
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Well I'm gonna get them to do a once-over on it as well as extract the studs from the turbine housing. Heck, I'll see if they can do anything. Wonder if any 700 series are in the local pick 'n pulls.
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That turbo rebuilder told me hard parts are extra and any porting started at 75.00. They extracted all the studs for mine in the standard price.
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and watch what u grab in a junkyard, alot of the saabs had t25 turbos, which are great turbos and all but not on a vw diesel haha. and alot of the volvos had mitsubishi turbos too.
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Progress? In MY build thread? It's more likely than you think! Especially since I got my crankshaft back! WOOOOOOO!
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2012-09-22205543_zpsc0a16967.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2012-09-22205556_zps95407827.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2012-09-22205623_zps28a7a438.jpg)
In the second pic you can see where the spray welding was applied. It's the lighter areas. This has REALLY snugged up the timing belt cog, won't move at all now. Just need to smooth the nose contact surface of some very mild flash and she's ready for initial bottom end assembly and measurement!
Also found out at work last week that there's a machinist 6 MILES from my apartment complex, meaning I don't have to go to another city across the mountains for machine work anymore.
The Rabbit will live yet! HELL YEAH! MIKES HARD'S FOR EVERYBODY!
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Mike, did you steal my crank sproket? I cannot find it and that one looks like it.
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Mike, did you steal my crank sproket? I cannot find it and that one looks like it.
HA HA my genius plan is complete! ::)
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Sorry for DP, but . . .
Mein Zylinderkopf ist da!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC00128_zps3aec60db.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC00129_zps73fb2ded.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC00130_zps1f45718f.jpg)
(They're Smokey Eddie's pics, but it looks the same)
Now I'm ein zylinderkpfdichtung away from the Big Assembly Mockup MontageTM!
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/32/Mikes_Hard_Lemonade_Bottle._330ml_Canada_Old7_and_new_5percent_alc_Liquor3620.jpg/220px-Mikes_Hard_Lemonade_Bottle._330ml_Canada_Old7_and_new_5percent_alc_Liquor3620.jpg)
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Wow, just found this thread. It looks like my AAZ build for the Caddy. I'm super happy with mine.
Subscribed for sure !
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Wow, just found this thread. It looks like my AAZ build for the Caddy. I'm super happy with mine.
Subscribed for sure !
Yeah like on the 152! Don't forget, your Caddy was one of the reasons I chose the AAZ!
Old thread link (forum pretty much dead from inactivity):
http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4666&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75 (http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4666&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75)
Blech, it feels like a lifetime since I got this engine. I remember last year when Ken and I were talking about Coast to Coast to H2O. Really hated missing it this year; Ken, buy a Diesel and post here darnit! :)
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Forgive an old man's forgetfulness. Great build. Keep it up.
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and watch what u grab in a junkyard, alot of the saabs had t25 turbos, which are great turbos and all but not on a vw diesel haha. and alot of the volvos had mitsubishi turbos too.
Too big? (I pulled a T25 this week, while I was getting the intercooler.)
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and watch what u grab in a junkyard, alot of the saabs had t25 turbos, which are great turbos and all but not on a vw diesel haha. and alot of the volvos had mitsubishi turbos too.
Too big? (I pulled a T25 this week, while I was getting the intercooler.)
No, it's smaller than the T3, so even if the parts interchange, it would be a step down in ability to move area as well as efficiency relative to how I'll be using the T3.
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no, it would actually work fine, it just wouldn't be good for higher boost pressures, i would say its similar or a bit better than a k14. you could actually build a nice hybrid with the t25 exhaust side and a t3 compressor, not the vw compressor tho, they suck.
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Andy!! Guess I should have checked here more often. The152 is the Devil's playground now. Good to see that it is all coming together.
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Andy!! Guess I should have checked here more often. The152 is the Devil's playground now. Good to see that it is all coming together.
Hah! I knew your scrawny butt was over here, Jas. Was just waiting on you to find me.
Yep, it's coming along at least. Now if I could only get Arthur, VooDooFury, and VDubTec over here. . . .
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Seems they have a new Sheriff in Arturlow. Still thinks it sucks that it takes almost 12 months of messages and offing to volunteer to get anything done.
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Yeah, but at least his enthusiasm will hopefully keep things in check. And Lucky trimmed the spam!
Engine-wise, I think I'm just gonna bore her out to the next OS, 1mm. The bores' sizing issues are really frustrating me, and there's still some porosity showing in #1's bore. Thank goodness I know about a closer machinist now!
And BTW, did somebody on here offer to buy my 0.5mm OS pistons? Because I have a PM to send. ;)
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what for money do you want for them???
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PM sent!
:)
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Okay, sorry to big bump, but progress will hopefully be made in the next few weeks. My new 1mm O.S. pistons are on the continent according to Myke, so I should get them within the next few days. Got the sealing surfaces on my exhaust manifold planed since the turbo flange had some light pitting, but still need to drill an EGT port. I also pressed new wrist pin bushings into my rods. I'll have to get them reamed to fit the pins, though. Gonna see if the local machine shop can ream bearings; if not, anyone who know a good shop that does them let me know. Also need to see if they can balance the rods and pistons. Still need to find a good 45+ trim compressor housing and save enough up to send the turbo to Ohio for rebuilding. And get reamable intermediate shaft bearings. Maybe coat pistons as well. List is getting smaller, and now that the pistons are near I need to kick back into project mode and get some mo' money.
Progress needs to happen . . . soon . . .
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. . . .and then my pistons showed up.
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/download_zps7f0ed5bc.jpg)
Thanks, Myke. Next stop, Mr. machinist! :)
P.S.: Anyone out there know of a shop that reams wrist pin bearings, or bearings in general? And whoever has an extra intermediate shaft woodruf key, holla at me!
P.P.S: Can you swaintech coat over that black crap?
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Yes, No, Yes, but that black crap is basically what swaintech would be putting on.
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NVM on coating then. Less money to spend anyway. Thanks for telling. :)
The bearing reaming is what I need to know right now anyway; asked the local machine shop and they looked at me like I mentioned a dark art. That and IS key.
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So, finally got my block, rods, and pistons out to the new machinist, and this guy did in 10 days what should have been done by the other guy in 4 months:
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2013-03-25192554_zpsb3b77bac.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2013-03-25192522_zps80d0c4b9.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2013-03-25192535_zps5bfe05cf.jpg)
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2013-03-25193135_zps38793594.jpg)
Nice, right? Here's a list of what was done:
-Block bored over another 0.5mm to accept the 1mm OS pistons
-Pistons balanced
-Rods balanced
-Wrist pin bushings reamed to fit new pins
-Pressed in new intermediate shaft bearings
The block is now 100 times better than last time. Ring end gap comes within new spec in at 0.010", the piston pins fit with surgeons precision into the new bushings, and the intermediate shaft bearings are so tight they need oil to turn (and the IS glides effortlessly in the bearings while oiled). So all the bottom end problems are solved, and I'm one head gasket away from calling it a long block. All that's left are forced induction things like rebuilding/upgrading the turbo, and the AWIC setup.
Also bought some block plugs and woodruf keys at work, so don't need anything for the bottom end anymore.
If the turbo junk can be sorted by the end of next month, Mk1 Madness is a feasible option once more!
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ported head and what not?
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Of course; actually need to clean it up, put in new stem seals, and match port the manis also. So a little more than what I thought.
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Okay, getting close to reassembly of the short block, but now I have some quick questions before sticking everything back together:
1) Should I seal the piston oil jets with anything, or do they just fit in their bores well enough to seal themselves? I an't remember how they were when taking them off.
2) The machinist removed the oil galley plugs to clean the block after the second re-boring; what should I seal them with?
3) Block coolant core plugs, what do THEY get sealed with?
4)Anyone got an AAZ metal dipstick part?
5)My block still has it's oil pump shaft bearing in it; should I knock it out and put a new one in it? It doesn't feel bad.
Just kind of a case of pre-assembly jitters; if there's anything I need to know that isn't obvious before putting it all together, just point it out. If fortune smiles on me then the short block should be completed before the end of next week.
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Piston jets do require a sealant. I think I used an anaerobic type. In theory all of them should leak less than 1 main bearing, but some members on here have had oil pressure issues when they didn't seal them. One tore it down, sealed them, changed nothing else and oil pressure issues were gone. I think this is where I may break out the hylomar. You maybe able to coat it on all the things you listed and it seal fine. I won't say 100% it will work, but I do stuff like this with Hylomar and it works fine for me. Good luck.
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Piston jets do require a sealant. I think I used an anaerobic type. In theory all of them should leak less than 1 main bearing, but some members on here have had oil pressure issues when they didn't seal them. One tore it down, sealed them, changed nothing else and oil pressure issues were gone. I think this is where I may break out the hylomar. You maybe able to coat it on all the things you listed and it seal fine. I won't say 100% it will work, but I do stuff like this with Hylomar and it works fine for me. Good luck.
Would you use the spray stuff or tube hylomar?
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Most I would tube it. But if you can not waste much with the spray it is all the same stuff so you could spray it too. I really like that stuff.
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Cool thx.
But srsly anyone got AAZ dipstick tube.
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WELL THEN, that attitude ain't gonna get you no help haha.
Srsly, I don't got one though. lol
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I'm not exactly clear on what you mean about a dipstick tube. I may have tossed the one I cut off into the box of "spares". I cut it off about two inches from the block, tapped it and threaded a bolt onto it. I tried to figure out a more tactful way of removing it with no luck.
My Vanagon application uses the chingus attached to the pan and the stock tube just takes up space.
Would it be any good to you?
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I'm not exactly clear on what you mean about a dipstick tube. I may have tossed the one I cut off into the box of "spares". I cut it off about two inches from the block, tapped it and threaded a bolt onto it. I tried to figure out a more tactful way of removing it with no luck.
My Vanagon application uses the chingus attached to the pan and the stock tube just takes up space.
Would it be any good to you?
Nah, but thanks for the offer; I'll just fish one out of the never-ending VW parts warehouse that is New Jersey. NO I'm not kidding; NJ is where all the weird, hard-to-find, and not-for-US-market parts seem to be held, at least by what my work's parts department's computer says. I've pulled about 65% of VW original dealership parts from the Joisey warehouse, all with only 2-3 days delivery max. I pulled a damn near-complete 02A Eurovan cable clutch conversion out of there! I guess the lesson is this: When the apocalypse hits, the AAZ's will STILL go to the Garden State for parts!
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I'm not exactly clear on what you mean about a dipstick tube. I may have tossed the one I cut off into the box of "spares". I cut it off about two inches from the block, tapped it and threaded a bolt onto it. I tried to figure out a more tactful way of removing it with no luck.
My Vanagon application uses the chingus attached to the pan and the stock tube just takes up space.
Would it be any good to you?
Nah, but thanks for the offer; I'll just fish one out of the never-ending VW parts warehouse that is New Jersey. NO I'm not kidding; NJ is where all the weird, hard-to-find, and not-for-US-market parts seem to be held, at least by what my work's parts department's computer says. I've pulled about 65% of VW original dealership parts from the Joisey warehouse, all with only 2-3 days delivery max. I pulled a damn near-complete 02A Eurovan cable clutch conversion out of there! I guess the lesson is this: When the apocalypse hits, the AAZ's will STILL go to the Garden State for parts!
Do you have a post apocalypse number where you can be reached? I plan on heading that way in the van if that's where the spares are. Wish I coud have figured out how to remove the one I had from the block - hated cutting it off.
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hit w hammer a wooden/steel dowl from inside the oil pan.. how i do it...
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I'm not exactly clear on what you mean about a dipstick tube. I may have tossed the one I cut off into the box of "spares". I cut it off about two inches from the block, tapped it and threaded a bolt onto it. I tried to figure out a more tactful way of removing it with no luck.
My Vanagon application uses the chingus attached to the pan and the stock tube just takes up space.
Would it be any good to you?
Nah, but thanks for the offer; I'll just fish one out of the never-ending VW parts warehouse that is New Jersey. NO I'm not kidding; NJ is where all the weird, hard-to-find, and not-for-US-market parts seem to be held, at least by what my work's parts department's computer says. I've pulled about 65% of VW original dealership parts from the Joisey warehouse, all with only 2-3 days delivery max. I pulled a damn near-complete 02A Eurovan cable clutch conversion out of there! I guess the lesson is this: When the apocalypse hits, the AAZ's will STILL go to the Garden State for parts!
How much do you like fishing? id like one of those for future use.
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. . .
Would it be any good to you?
How much do you like fishing? id like one of those for future use.
[/quote]
Are you asking for the one I cut off or the hundreds supposedly in Jersy?
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I'm not exactly clear on what you mean about a dipstick tube. I may have tossed the one I cut off into the box of "spares". I cut it off about two inches from the block, tapped it and threaded a bolt onto it. I tried to figure out a more tactful way of removing it with no luck.
My Vanagon application uses the chingus attached to the pan and the stock tube just takes up space.
Would it be any good to you?
Nah, but thanks for the offer; I'll just fish one out of the never-ending VW parts warehouse that is New Jersey. NO I'm not kidding; NJ is where all the weird, hard-to-find, and not-for-US-market parts seem to be held, at least by what my work's parts department's computer says. I've pulled about 65% of VW original dealership parts from the Joisey warehouse, all with only 2-3 days delivery max. I pulled a damn near-complete 02A Eurovan cable clutch conversion out of there! I guess the lesson is this: When the apocalypse hits, the AAZ's will STILL go to the Garden State for parts!
How much do you like fishing? id like one of those for future use.
Dudes, just lemme know and I'll bug the part guys to see what's where!
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And yet again I find myself saying a much-deserved thank you to Lucas and Chris, this time for getting me my rebuilt turbo back. Just arrived today, and I'm happy to say she's just big enough to get me in trouble! ;)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/947395_144286339093213_1785964174_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/580478_144286332426547_1981035328_n.jpg)
Lookit that big wheel!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/226709_144286335759880_1989412648_n.jpg)
The last pic shows the leftovers of the 50 trim swap; the housing, the boost signal lines, and the various washers and fasteners. They are up for sale if anyone wants them. Just PM me and we can talk about what you need.
In other news, I was able to get at least one piston in the block for HG mock-up . . . only to realize I didn't have anything even close to an accurate measuring instrument to check protrusion distance. D'oh! Well, add magnetic base dial indicator to the list of stuff I need.
That's really all right now. Again, thanks to Lucas(theman53) and Chris(CRSMP5) fro their much appreciated halp in getting my turbo rebuilt and upgraded; I literally couldn't have done it any better without you guys.
CarzyAndy, out!
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That is one honkin turbo! I spoze you have a super pump to feed it fuel and studs to keep the head under the hood?
What kind of boost numbers are you targeting?
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That is one honkin turbo! I spoze you have a super pump to feed it fuel and studs to keep the head under the hood?
What kind of boost numbers are you targeting?
Studs, Giles pump, 25 PSI minimum!
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hey mike.. i left the 3 volvo turbos with lucas to figure out.. but think i got complete volvo set up like yours.. side by side identuical.. thinking of mocking it up with custom manifold for jackrabbit..
but if giz's old hg, the head ive been waiting on.. i may dump proto engine in my 84 coupe and tow it to madness so i got 2 cars there.. 1 freeken engine set up in na.. and toaster to pull it.. my tow bar set up on jackrabbit fits my coupe...
fyi ive been collecting my "freeken" engine parts for maybe 3 mo... still 0 in out of pocket.. damb exhaust manifold gaskets and injector heatshields will be engine costs... still wonder if it will run.. and if so how well.. but im telling you now.. if my red coupe shows up there.. and you borrow/rent a car... you got no excuse... and cannot drive 2.. so why i pullin one.. toaster gotta go.. jackrabbit be nice.. but runnin proto idi in my 84 coupe.. just little sweeter then jackrabbit...
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We'll see, Chris; right now things are a little ambiguous. I'll still drive the bus if I can't do the rabbit,
And I actually have a question for the masses: If these pistons measure over 1.02 mm, the max spec for AAZ protrusion, couldn't I use a IZ/AHU head gasket gasket, which can be had in thicknesses from 0.91 mm all the way up to 1.2 mm? IDK, maybe there's something I'm missing, but it seems to me like it wouldn't be a problem, unless IDIs and TDIs have different clearances between the heads and pistons.
Just asking.
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tdi = no precup...
just use the 3notch.. how 1.6 is over the 1mm point i think..
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I'll just bite the bullet and buy a middle-range magnetic base dial indicator set. I don't know exactly what I'd use it for after this, but the way I see ti it's like the post hole digger of measurement instruments; you only need it maybe seven to ten times ever, but those time you are damn glad you have it. I could always rent it to my friends for beer also. :)
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i just use the depth gauge end of micrometer/sliding ruler.. 20-500 easy.. but 20$ on sale at harbor freight should do it...
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Straightedge and feeler gauges...
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This is what i bought from the classifieds here. I have yet to use it!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/CEF8EFE2-6AF6-40CE-BF23-0B87F6B863DE-3438-0000036A4024C1A8_zps1bf0cf03.jpg)
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here mike.. this is more fair since all new parts...
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/7acd17674aa83b6ed42cb2feb68ed0da52f389d8/photos/5623911370201917_b96dde74af.jpg)
after 6 weeks of backorder on a set of rings to fix the broken one... aka broke new one.. and 6 weeeks later got replacement..
most rediculous thing ever.,.. my last vr6 rering.. never again...
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/7acd17674aa83b6ed42cb2feb68ed0da52f389d8/photos/5001501370202032_7bbc7b801c.jpg)
yes $$ crack pipe for size...
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/7acd17674aa83b6ed42cb2feb68ed0da52f389d8/photos/6508761370202266_5d849c32bd.jpg)
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/7acd17674aa83b6ed42cb2feb68ed0da52f389d8/photos/3680351370202295_38ac83bd7e.jpg)
i drove it in and out of door today too like that... 2-3 weeks i expect it to be driving down road..
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here mike.. this is more fair since all new parts...
i drove it in and out of door today too like that... 2-3 weeks i expect it to be driving down road..
Man I wish I had two more cylinders in my block.
Nice. Kinda new to anything that's not an AAZ - what is the displacement/HP of this after your done?
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something stupid... im just glad someone else gets to take it home.. sadly the owner has past conviction of eluding... and hastotaled many mk2 golf 13 years ago... this ought to teach him respect or death.. doubt there is very fine line with this.. once i get all the ic pipping made up ill get him to order up his $26/life plates.. and will be rollin silly..
who's got a go pro??
my worry.. less then week = new tranny.. he used to blow thru 020's till i built him one... mine only one to ever last him!! not had car with 020 since eluding..he gradded to vr6 after that.. but this his 1st real vr6 too.. rest junk no good cars.. mk3 jetta w/looks like cracked headf.. and one with dead hole.. his dd he has to clean fouled plug on often..
this... will be silly..
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Damn, man, that looks cool! Glad to see you got the rings sorted out; I actually found the VR6 ring compressor tool at my dealership, tried to pus a junk ring though it, and you're right, that thing is crap! Nice choice on the metal crack pipe, as well as the Turbonetics snail. The owner better not be an idiot and wreck that thing like his past history, but I wouldn't bet on it.
As far as my engine, I went with Libby's (AKA other Andrew's) suggestion and used an engineers straightedge with some feeler gauges to determine my piston protrusion, and tried all cylinders with their corresponding rods. The protrusion came out to be 0.635-0.68 mm on all 4 clyinders, with number 3 having the greatest, 4 having the least, and the other 2 having 0.05 mm above the median of the variation. All this means I can pick up a 1 notch head gasket. I also got the main oil galley plugs , intermediate shaft end plug, and 2 of 3 coolant core plugs pressed-hammered in. Sealed them all with the tube of Hylomar that came in the mail 4 days ago; thank you online hard-to-find lubricant/solvent vendors!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1000810_146730868848760_1144312167_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/994172_146730865515427_1894277662_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/993531_146730862182094_1018023457_n.jpg)
Next step is getting some graphite lubricant for seating the rings, a 1-notch HG, a piston ring compressor,and cleaning the cylinder head, and we just might have a long block by next week. Can't wait!
And CRS, what's that upward-canted hole on the back of the VR block for? I actually don't know!
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oil pump drive off the im shaft..
heads on it now.... but failed to notice the o-ring for chain cover/tensoner feed... so almost got chains installed... LOL... last vr6 ill ever do...
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Just realized I have a bit of a concern; when I was doing engine work, I got my EGT-1000 probe from Aircraft Spruce out of storage to get the exhaust manifold ready for drilling to tap and fit the adapter. However, the wire lead connectors don't match the pins for the Westach gauge I bought (also from Aircraft Spruce), which has pin connectors instead of the ring-and-screw connectors on the probe. Pic below:
(http://i1167.photobucket.com/albums/q639/CrazyAndy1/2013-06-09175112_zps3ec52b87.jpg) (http://s1167.photobucket.com/user/CrazyAndy1/media/2013-06-09175112_zps3ec52b87.jpg.html)
Is this going to be a problem if I decide to extend the wires, which I'll have to do anyway, and attach them with different ends? Also, I do not remember if the EGT-1000 is a voltage-generating pyrometer or a voltage modifying one, so I don't know exactly how the circuit needs to be laid out for the probe/gauge. Anyone with a similar probe/gauge combo on their EGT setup have any advice for this? Thanks if anyone knows!
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I am thinking those wires need to be extended with their kit, and cutting them will screw the reading up.
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Same setup I have. They sent a small wire that slips on the gauge it is about 2 foot long and then you need K type thermo couple wire. Libby used to sell it. I have it written down in my instructions, but I forget which way is which. I used a lighter once it was hooked up and one way sent the gauge down and the other did it the right way.
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thnk that end screws to probe...
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Well, the main concern is that I need to modify the extender wires; could you give a link to the notes, Lucas? I know which ends are which on the probe, with the yellow end being the plus side, and I'll just futz with the ends on the bench to see which pin is which on the gauge by the lighter test you described. It's just getting the square peg in the round hole right now, which needs to be done to the extender wires apparently. If I need to talk to Libby about the wire then that's what I'll do.
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More updates; got some of the short block assembled before daylight ran out.
Got the oil jets in, Hylomar sealed and thread locker on the retainer bolts.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1005401_148699848651862_163132938_n.jpg)
Got the bores clean and rubbed them with Total Seal graphite bore lube; turned the cylinder bores an ever-so-slight green tinge, which is what it's supposed to do.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1013524_148699851985195_1540696151_n.jpg)
Then got the main studs in, put in the main bearings with wet graphite assembly lube, with care taken to put the extra full circle bearing shell on the #4 main cap to prevent '#3 rod syndrome'. dropped the crank in and torqued the caps down in sequence to 55 ft-lbs per Raceware's specs.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1016106_148699841985196_1747506068_n.jpg)
Started to rain and get dark, so I shut up for the night. I wish I could have gotten the pistons and rods in, but I had arrived too late in the day, plus only 3 of the 4 cylinders had their rings on. Now I'll have to wait for a few days while the bus is in the shop getting metal work and the windshield replaced for state inspection.
The dry, graphite-covered bores exposed, even with the block wrapped in a trash bag, sure puts me on edge. Can't wait until ol' BUGJUICE is done being under the knife; I gotta get those pistons in!
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8 hr netted this today.. still good 3hr left in welding on it...
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/7acd17674aa83b6ed42cb2feb68ed0da52f389d8/photos/1796551371437743_1f4459f84a.jpg)
stainless.. vbands n all.. 2 j pypes there.. what a pain..
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Looks like your winning the battle ;)
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ಠ_ಠ
Shaddup giz :P
Okay, but seriously, gonna be stuck without a car for the weekdays anyway, so I'll twist a friends arm to help me go down and pick up my head and one of the pistons and the ring set to get the ringless piston squared away (need a template; messed up the compression ring order). I'll also disassemble the head down to the guide inserts and get it cleaned up, then stick it together with new stem seals and re-lap the valves. The HG comes in on Wednesday, so things should align to get the long block a reality by late this weekend, or at least see what reason/exuse I'll have by then on why it still didn't happen. :P
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ಠ_ಠ
Shaddup giz :P
I meant that in a good way Andy :) I am fighting a similar battle myself and it's all I can do to keep at it sometimes.
I figure the only way the mess of problems, decisions, knackered knuckles, boxes of parts, endless posts, searches, and dwindling bank account will pay off is when I hear some clack!
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lol.. giz a bad boy... my head showed up today.. :D so had to dig it our for a pic..
got aaz im shaft, vac pump.. theman.. giz supplied headgasket.. 8v supplied head.. bottom end is what it is.. not discussion at the moment.. till i figure out headgasket.. http://www.cometic.com/ talking to a drag racing friend.. that place can build me new spacer for head gasket.. so i can increase the compression to a better one.. if i cannot get the 1hole aaz to work..
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/087c3f16cc1b333f7f3016a19974fea52a620c99/photos/5779511371524677_993fd1cc7d.jpg)
too bad when i removed the im shaft from it.. i found this..
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/087c3f16cc1b333f7f3016a19974fea52a620c99/photos/1955821371524708_c7ca8f11a3.jpg)
so i guess im bearings.. still gotta find a fuel pump, oil pump.. and need to clearance the head gasket as the pistons hit it.. :( 1.9 aaz bores too small.. :P by just a tad..
looking thru cosmic.. i can but a specialty thickness headgasket.. cut rivits on the aaz.. use the top layre of aaz with proper bottom portion.. i bet that would work.. :P this may actually work?????????
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Sure it will work, just spray some magic hylomar on it ;D. Hold it down with Some AARP studs cause it's an old used gasket ;Ds
No really, I think it will work.
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well just a future fyi to you and those putting aaz heads on 1.6.... the vr6t uses a stock metal headgasket, removed rivits so middle section fatter.. lower comp..
now looking at 9a headgaskets.. they make then different thicknesses.. no reason the top layer of aaz for pre cup cannot be used with bottom 2 layers of say 9a for my app.. the pistons clear it.. as they do not get to top layer :)
i see no reason it cannot work :D if i get really into it get the micky mouse ears milled into the flat top pistons of the 9a..
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WELP, short block isn't happening this week. Piston ring tools didn't come in through my tool guy. Did get a 30mm hub water pump to run a VR6 pulley for my serpentine setup, though, and my head gasket is in at NAPA; just need to go get it. I also need to put oil back into the broes and scrape the slight surface rust off that I caused by prematurely prepping them. >:(
Also, for reasons that I'm not going into, I tried to mail my WRD 02A trans mounts to Canada, and customs has yet again lost them. I opened up an inquiry, but it takes about 24 days, and that was a week ago so I'm still in the hog pit waiting for them to respond. I'm never mailing to Canada again, and I truly mean that.
Looks like the Rabbit isn't making Madness this year either. oh well, at least everyone will get to see my Bus and it's new windshield that had to be put in because a rock hit the old one.
Another day at the funny farm I guess.
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now looking at 9a headgaskets.. they make then different thicknesses.. no reason the top layer of aaz for pre cup cannot be used with bottom 2 layers of say 9a for my app.. the pistons clear it.. as they do not get to top layer :)
i see no reason it cannot work :D if i get really into it get the micky mouse ears milled into the flat top pistons of the 9a..
That layer that is hanging inside the cylinder (with the smaller ID) - while it may not get hit by the piston, it's gonna get reel hot.
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thought bout that too.. be like a thin piece of metal to turn red hot and melt.. then i thought of router idea you also suggested.. :D im going to make it work.. you watch.. sadly with ideas of cali.. puts my crap on back burner.. :( but if i make it to sanfran/tahoe.. i can buy ya lunch/dinner for the gasket :D so ill push this back till sept.. with ideas of ok go ttime ill hit it.. :D
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ill pay $1 per fake foam 02a mounts so we can send him home with lots of mounts that we toss at him like water bombs... at mk1 madness...
i know... we all hop into bus and head to customs with towels on our heads and follow a mk1 rocco into parking lot as head pops out w/rocker launcher be fun.. :D
how did i miss canada... thats 3rd time charm??
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So to show I haven't been utterly useless this past week, I've gotten my head cleaned up; got the new valve stem seals in yesterday and knocked them in over lunch. Head got tanked by the local machine shop. Knocked it all together not more than an hour ago. She's ready for the new 1 hole Goetze head gasket w/ a just-to-be-sure thin skimming of Hylomar.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1013656_151218045066709_1894264137_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/19900_151218051733375_226497522_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/945326_151218041733376_2072473031_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005581_151218345066679_2103606373_n.jpg)
Add that to me getting in my piston ring compression tools, and we will hopefully have a long block near the end of the weekend! Just need to hang the piston rings on the lone cylinder and she'll be ready for a hard-charging Saturday/Sunday. The only other thing I'll need to do is stop by the hardware store for some oi pump bolts and wavy washers to keep torque under said bolts, and the oil pan can go on also.
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Seriously! ::) :o You put that head on grandmas nice bed shall that she made for you! >:(
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Right now I wish there was a like button for that comment ^ LOL
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Haha ;D
Quote me :D
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Seriously! ::) :o You put that head on grandmas nice bed shall that she made for you! >:(
That was NOT made by my grandmother . . . . it by was my stepmom. What can I say, I hate light sheets. And that head is hot-tanked CLEAN, mister!
In other news, Lowes is not a specialty fastener store, much to my lack of remembrance. I couldn't find another bolt for my oil pump, so it's up to Friday's lunch time to deliver on a 8.8 grade 8x1.25 mm x 90mm bolt w/ a 65m thread-less shank.
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#91310a562/=ndqhhv (http://www.mcmaster.com/#91310a562/=ndqhhv)
A lifetime supply and if you order it now - you will have it tomorrow - or next day at the latest
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Damn, 10.9? Should I get a corresponding wavy washer, or just use the silver-colored pack I got at Lowes? I think the softer metal might cause torque issues, but I'm not a metallurgy specialist. Either way, ordered!
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The 8.8 were more expensive but I think you got more with the order.
Just torque it down to the spec.
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Okay, thanks. Now if only I could get the site to place an order!
EDIT: Got it; Chrome was beign pissy, blocking the payment method pop-up, and you need to click on the payment method thingy in the leftmost column for anyone else who hasn't ordered from McM-C on here, which is probably a very low percentage of people now that I think about it. :)
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I have never ordered from them. Probably never will especially for bolts since I sell bolts.
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Obviously. :)
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freeken customs... they hate me more then u!!!!!!
i get a pump sent from there to here with a set of lines in it.. lines for me... pump for customer... i think the bastards reboxed the pump.. did not notice the lines.. and did not put them back in the box........ and i trust the seller.. :P
lookie what i grabbed today...
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/087c3f16cc1b333f7f3016a19974fea52a620c99/photos/6930681372389493-7f59481568.jpg)
since customers tdi can go home now.. figured id bring this back..
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Where the hell did you find this? I ended up ordering one from VW. :-\
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1005581_151218345066679_2103606373_n.jpg)
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Synchro, I got that from my local NAPA; it was branded under their umbrella company Atrom Imports. I did some looking into Altrom Group, and their manufacturer list is FULL of VW OEM companies! I felt very confident that I'd get a good HG like Elring or Victor Reinz, but was surprised to get Goetze; I'm used to only getting piston rings from them. Bottom line to me is I'm not afraid to order from NAPA for anything VW; they even had thickness specifications listed on their site so you know it's a true 1-hole. It's nice to find another trusted local auto parts store since Carquest packed up and moved out of town.
Good to see you got the jackrabbit back in, CRS; have you done anything to it as of late? I see the poo box in the background. Am I to assume rightly that you bought it?
EDIT: Oh, and going out to work on the engine tomorrow. Finally got the piston ring compressor and pliers, so combine that with the head being clean and ready, I'm ready to make an almost-long block! I need to wait to put in the oil pump, so the pan has to wait also.
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poo box belongs to guy in cali.. 337 the blue one is beside it.. so my lot has 3 in it.. :P i stripped/washed it yesterday.. ready for push rides at madness..
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Synchro, I got that from my local NAPA; it was branded under their umbrella company Atrom Imports. I did some looking into Altrom Group, and their manufacturer list is FULL of VW OEM companies! I felt very confident that I'd get a good HG like Elring or Victor Reinz, but was surprised to get Goetze; I'm used to only getting piston rings from them. Bottom line to me is I'm not afraid to order from NAPA for anything VW; they even had thickness specifications listed on their site so you know it's a true 1-hole. It's nice to find another trusted local auto parts store since Carquest packed up and moved out of town.
Good to see you got the jackrabbit back in, CRS; have you done anything to it as of late? I see the poo box in the background. Am I to assume rightly that you bought it?
EDIT: Oh, and going out to work on the engine tomorrow. Finally got the piston ring compressor and pliers, so combine that with the head being clean and ready, I'm ready to make an almost-long block! I need to wait to put in the oil pump, so the pan has to wait also.
Yep the altrom stuff rules. I get employee pricing too. U should always ask for altrom parts from napa sincr their usually oem alot of the time theyll have to order it in but thats fine because its usually cheaper as well
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trunks full of beer, ice, mikes hard... time to cook.. no problem.. pop open the grill.. i even installed my shifter incase of rain.. so we can have a teepee..
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/087c3f16cc1b333f7f3016a19974fea52a620c99/photos/3792621372608419-649d9e047d.jpg)
my crap may not run.. but at least it will attend and be a show of its own..
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Totally ready! Gonna get brown-faced on some proper beer this time, though; my palate for good liquor has grown a lot in the past 12 months, you'll be surprised. It'll be nice to finally relax and not worry about having the car ready for some show; with any luck, I won't remember most of the weekend anyway. :P
And as promised, more progress at last. Got the long block 90% together today with a buddy of mine! Lubricated the bores, got the piston and rod assemblies into the bores, torqued down the rod caps . . .
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1001136_152252428296604_959636571_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1016187_152252494963264_1273050498_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1001136_152252428296604_959636571_n.jpg)
. . .cleaned the head and deck, spun in the head studs, thin application of Hylomar to the head gasket, let the stuff cure with the head on the block . . .
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1044389_152252448296602_922897873_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/267331_152252451629935_545484451_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/946509_152252488296598_1240841734_n.jpg)
. . .and realized we didn't have a 13mm 12-point socket to torque the head with. Oops! We snugged the nuts up with a 14m 6-point, so the sealant should be fine since it's non-hardening anyway.
I'll make a stop by tomorrow and torque the head down, and maybe even dry install the valve cover to keep dust out. Who knows, maybe my fasteners will arrive tomorrow and I can install the oil pump, sump, and intermediate shaft!
This thing is getting really close to being done as a full block; I really need to attend to the smaller things, like making sure my turbo oil feed and drain are fabbed up, getting the oil cooler lines made, and ordering the AWIC and timing tools. I also need to turn my attention on getting the trans ready by installing the 0.681 5th and new side plate seal, as well as keeping in contact with USPS about getting either A) my trans mounts back or B) a refund for their value. Anyone have an old 02A reverse switch connector?
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Back, so soon! Finally got out and torqued the head down on the motor. Went flawlessly; three torque stages up to 50 ft/lbs, no drama. A little Hylomar came out in some areas, but that just means there was enough there to begin with; there's a nice blue line around most of the head gasket which assures me she's sealed for life.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017473_152914518230395_2045786601_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1013482_152914514897062_2103640121_n.jpg)
Also, finally got the hardware for the oil pump and pan in, as well as some extra to hold both main seals' plates down. Got everything bolted down with the windage tray gasket and some VW factory white sealant. While I would love to show you more photos of that, my phone decided to have a low battery, so no more photos for you today.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/998171_152914511563729_53739467_n.jpg)
This thing is one IM shaft, vacuum pump, and oil filter boss away from being a true long block. That means once that is done the block will need to be moved out to where the car is in order to hang the turbo assembly, prime the oil system sans cooler, and get stuffed in the bay once the crap with the trans mounts and trans itself gets sorted. Then on to hanging the fuel system and timing her up!
P.S.: The exhaust manifold is tapped for EGT, huzzah!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1044609_152915874896926_875404239_n.jpg)
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Nice job!
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Looking good
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what tourbow are you using?
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some perty modded one... i picked it up and lucas sent it to him... 2x yours easy bbob..
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Got the frozenboost.com 350HP AWIC kit ordered. Not the 600HP kit 8v-of-fury's been going on about, but it's big enough; I'm not even gonna crack 180 HP, so it's still twice as big which should be awesome for cooling all that pressurized air. I can't wait; this just leaves the trans mount situation to deal with and then the engine can go into the car!
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Swweeeet.... You'll love it!
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
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Well, I tried to go out and torque down my main studs to 120 ft-lbs, but one of the middle ones decided that it wasn't having that.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/994845_153603144828199_1234690108_n.jpg)
It's all good; I'm on the internet looking for new ARP studs right now. I just had the lowest feeling in the pit of my stomach as I was rounding 100 ft-lbs and heard *CRACK*. I should be able to install the new studs with the head on-engine if the now-old ones feel like coming out. Really dodged a bullet there. I wouldn't recommend buying Raceware head studs, and this really call into question the main studs I installed from them, even though their installation was good. However I think this is because I didn't have the full thread of the stud sticking through, and I know that all the studs' nuts threaded past the top.
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ARP you take to 100 I thought race ware was like 50...
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta
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I did 125 on my ARP's - several times ;D
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Either way, I'm searching for better head studs and crossing my fingers on the mains.
And Lucas, hit me up on the 'book, yo.
EDIT: Check out my clean wiring diagram for all my new accessories!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1045016_153613044827209_1289857755_n.jpg)
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Well I'm gonna go silent for a for the work week because I have to save up for new engine hardware, but I do have a question before I order. Can you use the 1.6 main stud kit ARP 204-5402 on the AAZ without consequence? I'm going to completely replace all Raceware hardware in my motor with ARP after the head stud let go; I don't trust their stuff anymore.
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Well I'm gonna go silent for a for the work week because I have to save up for new engine hardware, but I do have a question before I order. Can you use the 1.6 main stud kit ARP 204-5402 on the AAZ without consequence? I'm going to completely replace all Raceware hardware in my motor with ARP after the head stud let go; I don't trust their stuff anymore.
I asked Summit a few questions about he ARP head stud kit - reponse was pretty quick. Wish I had used their main studs as well - but I stayed with stock. Great diagram - same one you sent me and it's nice and simple but covers just about everything.
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;D
blame quiet to extra work for madness money.. i see..
i do not see any lube on the washer/nut... was it put on dry or lubed up with some moly?
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Well I'm gonna go silent for a for the work week because I have to save up for new engine hardware, but I do have a question before I order. Can you use the 1.6 main stud kit ARP 204-5402 on the AAZ without consequence? I'm going to completely replace all Raceware hardware in my motor with ARP after the head stud let go; I don't trust their stuff anymore.
Yes, the same headbolts are used so the same studs can be used. There is a TDI kit from ARP now, but I am still using the older ford cosworth kit that we have linked part #s to in the FAQ section.
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Well, I tried to go out and torque down my main studs to 120 ft-lbs, but one of the middle ones decided that it wasn't having that.
Mains should definitely not be torqued to 120 ft-lbs. The pic looks like a head stud, not main.
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Well, I tried to go out and torque down my main studs to 120 ft-lbs, but one of the middle ones decided that it wasn't having that.
Mains should definitely not be torqued to 120 ft-lbs. The pic looks like a head stud, not main.
You are right; I mis-stated which studs I torqued. Thank you for pointing that out.
Well I'm gonna go silent for a for the work week because I have to save up for new engine hardware, but I do have a question before I order. Can you use the 1.6 main stud kit ARP 204-5402 on the AAZ without consequence? I'm going to completely replace all Raceware hardware in my motor with ARP after the head stud let go; I don't trust their stuff anymore.
Yes, the same headbolts are used so the same studs can be used. There is a TDI kit from ARP now, but I am still using the older ford cosworth kit that we have linked part #s to in the FAQ section.
Yup, forgot about that link. Includes that very part number for the main studs; served me right for not remembering to RTFFAQ.
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Five words to describe what came in the mail today: Air. To. Water. Intercooler. Kit.
HELL YEAH!!!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1013469_154582051396975_1377045095_n.jpg)
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(http://www.crsmp5.com/2012_photos/madness2012/madness12/penthouse.jpg)
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someone is a pictarwhooore
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sat... that pic turns 1yo.. mikes pent house right there..
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Five words to describe what came in the mail today: Air. To. Water. Intercooler. Kit.
HELL YEAH!!!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1013469_154582051396975_1377045095_n.jpg)
still on your grandma's nicely made bed for you.
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Why so much boost tubing? A large reason for going air/water is to minimize boost tubing and lag.
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Why so much boost tubing? A large reason for going air/water is to minimize boost tubing and lag.
Im guessing he is going to trim it down.
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I would think the most needed would be a 90° off the compressor outlet and then a 180° off the AWIC and a short run back into the intake. That looks like 4 feet of extra aluminum and a couple extra couplers.
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1013469_154582051396975_1377045095_n.jpg)
Mmmmm, nice. Whose kit is it? I think this belongs on my AAZ Torquemonster. 8)
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www.frozenboost.com !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AMAZING CUSTOMER SERVICE AND PRICES!! :)
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yea libby.. problem is.. people like me take that tube, cut/weld.. if you have no "scraps/supply"... gotta start somewhere..
i myself.. id make mounts up off tranny for it so it can move with the engine.. mount it solid with no rubber couplers and a few v bands... this way no places to pop and make a boost leak..
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That is true Chris, but those couplers should hold up fine if they are from them.. friggan like 7 ply silicone.
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ha... get little oil between pipe and coupler buddy... they go pop real nice.. best part.. after the pop ther so much oil it does not stay together till you get it all dry..
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If the tube ends are beaded and the clamps are decent, they will hold to 30 psi.
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yep... but tell ya now.. even tclamp style ones will..
my problem one is the one the engine pulls on.. issue of mounted to body ic.. i made bead and solved it.. but when andy cuts and clamps, or 8v.. they lack that.. making bead sux.. v band = win.. mounted to motor like porsche 930.. with bolts and o-rings i like.. but v bands = solution for that..
why when i did bbobs i did lots to make sure it could not pull apart.. but the turbo coupler i guess has caused him issue a few times.. but i think that was the bastard coupler.. vs the blue ones..
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No tube should be left unbeaded. These work on anything down to 5/8" or as big as you can go. I've done many intercooler pipes with them. Great for coolant couplers too as you can see.
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1445.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/100_1446.jpg)
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gotta make a thread w/that as tool people need to make if doing custom ic work.. i like it.. simple/easy.. just never seen/thought of.. i was thinking of getting a exhaust pipe expander, modding it.. the old big bolt in middle kind. and making something to hold the outside so i can by hand put in the lip.. that works for lots less $
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Hey Andrew I love the beading tool.. Yet another super simple and clever idea from your evil genius brain.
Any idea what the thickness limitations of that tool might be on steel / stainless?
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knew you would like that myke... i have make to show bob...
i make set out of worn out pair tonight at work to try... then when i see bbob's passat next i going to redo the 2 i dislike..
thoughts on stainless.. id like to hear.. exhaust shops say good stainless will crack before it gives much..
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In all fairness I pretty much robbed the idea from FSPGTD on this forum 8 or 10 years ago. Mine are a little different but the concept is the same. I welded the bead onto the lower jaw, and cut the channel in the other. I then cut out behind the lower jaw to make clearance for small pipes. I've used it successfully on aluminum, mild steel and stainless. Stainless is certainly the hardest and so a bit of a workout (multiple passes with little adjustments of the depth). The coolant coupler in the pictures above is stainless. If someone is planning on making similar I would recommend using the vice grips with the longest handles you can find for the best leverage.
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well id assume 1 pair not ideal for all you can do too.. but yes leverage is key along with tooth design.
i think id make a biting jig for a press for stainless.. make up a set of jaws let the press do the work.. little at time.. turn the tube.. press again..
pliers great aluminum and mil steel.. stainless.. it freken hard.. but it bout crazyshine's ic pipes and lips.. easy enough for him to copy and use in his build.. :D and most mechanics have a worn out pair of vicegrips.. and yes andy i consider you a mechanic vs a dealer parts changer.. driving bus.. gotta be to get places.. how many pairs you got holding it together?
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Builders log, star date 07312013:
The voices in my head all agreed it was stupid having to travel to work on my engine, and so I have moved the entire project to my room. Here, it will never be in fear of humidity or neglect, especially with the arrival of the new ARP head studs.
But there's no stopping the Honda gremlins and their lols. May god be with us all.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/15039_158886120966568_969956852_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/543520_159828654205648_1496287175_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1011414_159828650872315_1090223011_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1017541_159828687538978_1425674725_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/601951_159828677538979_1970137350_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/535710_159828684205645_1367130787_n.jpg)
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Sweet. Now you won't forget about it.
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i weld a line on mine on the outside as they are very hard to bend...
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I like the injection pump book end.
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I like the injection pump book end.
Yes, it's served in that line of duty for the past year. I have had about 80% of the parts for the past year, but the block has kept having issues and needing machining. Add to that needing the money and, well, I've had 4 grand in automotive-themed paperweights strewn around here for a bit. :)
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Okay, finally got the ARP head studs onto the engine. Removed the head and cleaned of both decks and the gasket; I decided that I really shouldn't need the Hylomar for the HG, but I'll use it for some paper oil/coolant gaskets later on. Luckily this head torquing session was uneventful, and it went to 125 ft.-lbs. nicely.
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/5490961375918797-c912b38314.jpg)
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/8815501375918814-618267e216.jpg)
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/9976841375918831-a90153f424.jpg)
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id have rolled them pistons so all mid stroke..... cannot bend a valve that way...
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id have rolled them pistons so all mid stroke..... cannot bend a valve that way...
X2 on that one ;D. Remember my busted lifter and bent valve scenario in my brand new KS head?
Sound like your'e all clear though - getti'n closer!
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id have rolled them pistons so all mid stroke..... cannot bend a valve that way...
X2 on that one ;D. Remember my busted lifter and bent valve scenario in my brand new KS head?
Sound like your'e all clear though - getti'n closer!
Cam wasn't tightened down for just that reason; I have not taken COMPLETE leave of my senses! :P I'll have the cam locator on when I go to tighten that down, no worries.
Next stop: Intermediate shaft installation and oil leak test (?)
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Got a lot of the ancillary stuff on the block on yesterday. Got on the intermediate shaft, water pump, oil filter boss, fuel injectors and return lines, glow plugs from the old head, cylinder head water outlets, inner timing belt cover, and exhaust manifold. Also torqued down the cam caps, since the cam is close enough to #1 top dead center to not cause the valves to contact the pistons. The heater core water outlet barely went on, as the lower bolt hole was almost completely thread-stripped, but it's holding on with a long stud I found. The only reason that I didn't mount more parts was that I ran out of hardware, as well as not having the tools to time the engine yet. I also need to clock the turbocharger's center housing, as the oil drain line is hitting the manifold. Yeah, I know I lied about tightening down the cam with the locator tool, but it's enough at TDC so as not to worry right now.
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/1263291376319897-eaa1b57f5c.jpg)
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/2428951376319804-4ab5a809c5.jpg)
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/5550341376320962-ae7b794031.jpg)
For more pictures, go to my driiive.com profile in my sig below!
That's all for now; CrazyAndy sez bye! :P
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As far as physically timing the crank/pump/cam there are no special tools needed, a socoet to hold the pump and your eyeballs to set the crank and cam at tdc.
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It is sad that a mod is telling people to not do it correctly, if that is what you do fine, but as this forum is supposed to be one of the best on VW diesels I would rather see the info shared to be as well. Almost as bad as that Hagar from the hillbilly forum that was too cheap to buy a Bentley manual and had to invent 50 ways to time/tune an injection pump. Funny how when he died they ended up scrapping most of his stuff because no one wanted to deal with his junk. You can be 5 degrees or more off and it still look OK and level on the cam but my tool still will not fit. For what Andy is doing it is close enough but when you actually put the belt on that can be a different story. Valve timing is as important to the way an engine runs as the IP timing...might be why you have to hillbilly tune your IP. It would feel better to me if you said "In my OPINION special tools are not needed or are only for people that think the Germans were not good engineers and didn't trust peoples eyes." Instead of "they aren't needed." Coming from a Mod a new member might think it is fine and ruin his engine or never understand why he is getting really high or really low MPG.
Also Andy, if you torqued the injectors that way I think you did it wrong. I would push it toward the head *as in the long part of the torque wrench on the TB side, but this could have been a pic only. Some may get away with it and call it ok, but I broke a head once doing this long ago before I knew about this forum.
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LoL. The timing tools from Volkswagen allow play.. So no it is not crucial to the degree. I have seen engines running with loose belts and belt timing that was WAY off. With no engine damage to speak of afterwords.
If you cannot see level, well I am sorry. Put a piece of something flat in there if you wanna be super cautious. If it were so crucial the crank would have a lock too.
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I am just saying step up your game.
BTW. My timing tools say to use feelers to take all slop out for no play. I can see level very well and it is very critical.
You can get them to run even up to a tooth off but even little advance and retard on the cam make differences on how the car runs and could be why some have issues using a gauge to time.
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Would everybody chill the hell out?!? Don't worry, when the timing belt goes on I WILL have all the timing tools, lock plate, pump pin, and all. I'll even get the pump dial gauge to tune the pump. And Lucas, I did go back and check the torque on the injectors in the method you recommended; all injector bosses are undamaged and all injectors hols stock torque spec of 51 ft.-lbs. as per the Bentley manual for this engine. Thank you for mentioning that. The cam was tightened down so the valve cover could be rested on the head to prevent airborne debris from entering the internals. I also taped over all holes.
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Lookin' good Andy.
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Purdy!
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I don't recall if the AHU Bentley calls for even thickness feeler gauges on either side of the cam lock but I am 100% certain that the ALH Bentley does.
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I dont see any reason not to use tools if you have them.. If your a good mechanic who is in a pinch and don't have the tools go for it. But i agree with lucas that people of authority aka mods should say the correct way to do it or add a disclaimer. At the same time though MOFO's should have a bentley anyhow.
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I am just saying step up your game.
people of authority aka mods should say the correct way to do it or add a disclaimer.
It is all the same. I did not misconstrue the procedure to properly time a VW diesel engine.. I have seen people badly screw up a timing job USING THE LOCKS. Darwin's theory my friends, natural selection..
If you want to use all the recommended tools that is fine, go ahead it is advised that you do so. Without a crank lock, I don't see how it is so crucial to the 0.001" though. LoL If you even lean on the alternators fan blade while working, the crank will move while it sits at #1 TDC.. Done it first hand. So much so that the TDC mark was completely out of site, oh yeah realllll precise timing procedure.
Alas though my previous post was not of "hillbilly tuning" (which is a total b.s term btw) the timing, simply putting the belt on and getting everything to TDC. No locks required for that. Crank at TDC via timing hole, cam at TDC via verifying level at the end of the cam, pump at TDC via conformation of the small hole in the pulley lining up. Furthermore, whilst properly installing the belt and allowing the belts slack to be in the proper spot for tensioning.. one needs to spin the pumps pulley CW literally one full tooth so it takes the slack between it and the crank pulley. My pump lock fits the pulley and bracket to the 0.01" yet it is still needed to be done. Every single one I have ever done, I have done that way.
Disclaimer: You don't know me in person, my advice is worthless.. However, I do know what I am doing so take it as you please.
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Precise cam timing is obviously very important. The cam is precisely timed when the crank can be rotated through a complete rotation going only clockwise to exactly fall on the correct TDC mark and at that time the cam slot is exactly parallel with the head. If your method achieves that result then it works correctly. If there is any deviation from that, then you should adjust your procedure. If you can achieve that result easily and repeatedly then your procedure not only works, but is good. :) I'm not sure what you are saying about the crank moving. It doesn't seem to apply. A crank lock would not help in getting to the desired result I stated above.
Here's my procedure for easily setting the cam timing precisely and accurately every time. I'm sure I've posted it before, but here it is reiterated.
Remove the cam sprocket.
Clean the cam sprocket and the taper on the end of the cam with brake clean.
Place the crank at TDC.
Place the cam at TDC using the cam lock and install equal feeler gauges on either side so that it is both snug and parallel to the head.
Install the pump lock in the pump sprocket.
Place the timing belt on the engine correctly around the crank, int shaft, tensioner and pump sprockets.
Place the cam sprocket into the remaining part of the belt and put it onto the cam taper.
Install the bolt onto the cam sprocket until it is snug but the cam sprocket can still turn easily.
Remove the pump lock.
Rotate the crank counter clockwise a few degrees (maybe 10°) and then rotate back to TDC without going past - this step is of utmost importance as it places any belt slack at the tensioner.
Tension the belt using the correct VW tension measuring tool on a 1.6 or the spring loaded tensioner on a 1.9.
Check to be sure the crank has not moved - if it has, then you did not load the slack at the tensioner correctly.
Tighten cam bolt to 25 ft-lbs.
Remove cam lock and feeler gauges.
Hold the cam sprocket by hand (or use a pulley holder if you are weak) and torque to 45 ft-lbs (I know the book says 33 ft-lbs but IMO it is not enough).
Tap the cam bolt with a hammer and recheck the torque.
Rotate the crank two full rotations back to TDC without going past and double-check the cam timing with the bar and feelers.
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fyi.. stop peeing on bob's thread.. he would rather you pick on crabby paddy then see the bicker.. :P
8v not to be offensive.. but a person of "authority" from time to time needs to watch how he words things on a technical issue as a newbie with 0 knowledge woudl think comming to a place like this that a mod would have "actual how to knowledge" and tend to use mods as a person to follow advice of.. from time to time i see where you fail to read the actual words people type and give bad info...
a 11mm deep well snap on socket i think fits the pump pully for a lock.. been way too long.. i can do with out lock but have a pin.. came with my idi tool set that napa made in the 80s.. the local snapon guy had the "close out of them" back in 92ish and was selling for 20 a pop.. dial gauge and all in nice box with laminite instrustion card... wish the part number did not fall off years ago.. else id try to find more.. imo perfect kit for all at that price.. and i know there a box truck hidden with them somewhere.. we owned all th eones our snap on guy had..
cam is simple.. file, bar stock, stack of feeler gauges even... 1.5-up to the pd it works.. not as easy on ahu (99.5+tdi) gotta remove the cam cap due to vac pump.. but still works..
crank timing.. need to be close on.. but as we spoke on phone.. you need the flywheel on as the crank sprocket normal marker is out of qestion due to crank snout mod 2x so no idea if it is indexed right..
lucas mentioned how a guy used a tube filled with water thru a injector hole... #4 glow plug would be a easy tap.... remove the glow plug.. find a rubber hose that fits in the glow plug hole tight.. hose needs to be transparent to see fluid in.. make a nice loop in the hose.. and let the fluid run to the bottom of the loop in the hose... theory is turning the crank to tdc the fluid would move away from the head.. then past tdc it would suck the fluid towards the head.. since you rpump is still off you can use glow plug #1.. but with pump on.. id sure try this on glow plug #4 but lots o frisk.. do not get any fluid in the hole else it can hydro lock.. but for the flywheel missing data.. best way i know to find tdc on the crank fo a diesel..
we should all have a dial gauge.. a baseline setting is nice.. for a guy that likes to adjust once running till best running.. ok.. i can live with that too... but getting a number at this point.. means that ok.. crap water pump leaks.. oil leaks.. what ever.. gotta pull belt.. i can set it to the setting now and not have to dick with turning it when running again.. i do not like loading the injector lines with the torque of twisting th pump myself.. lines crack.. and well unless proth are not cheap to buy if you crack it.. here in usa at least..
now lets move on...
so how is the crabby paddy today? any new flavors?
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/ce238b4e06ed2268fc7e38ed9bef0cbbd9c04cf3/photos/2916561375237492-a10341be40.jpg)
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Tension the belt using the correct VW tension measuring tool on a 1.6 or the spring loaded tensioner on a 1.9.
Hmm, My 1.9 doesn't have a spring loaded tensioner. There was a 1.6 IP mount from the PO and I replaced it with 1.9 brackets and proper covers, but the tensioner I bought was the same as the old one - not spring loaded.
Sorry to Bob, don't mean to steal your show :-[
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Wait a second, this is Crazy Mike's thread, not Bob's.
I forgot about the hose/liquid method for finding TDC. Thanks for the reminder. You can stick the end of the tube into a cup of liquid and watch for when the bubbles stop and the liquid starts getting sucked into the hose.
Some of the early 1.9s used the same tensioner as the 1.6s. I believe the stud size is different. Upside to the 1.6 tensioner is that it is less expensive. Downside is it doesn't tell you how tight to make the belt. Regardless, when tensioning the belt, it is important that you do move all the slack to the tensioner area and that the pump is not locked and the cam sprocket is able to turn on the cam.
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i usually just let the valve cover on and i put the belt on where ever it falls, then i turn the engine over, if something hits i move the belt one tooth on the cam until nothing hits anymore. then for injection timing i remove the injection lines and turn over the engine and until the #1 port on the injection squirts pretty close to tdc on the fly wheel. been doing it that way for years. we don't need all these wanna be engine ears on here over thinking the timing process, its real easy. then to tension it i just put it on tight, u can tell when the slack is good and tight the engine will sound super charged, then u just back off the tensioner a hair until it don't sound that way, like i said i been doing this for years i know what i am doing.
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bob as in sponge bob.. :D who else do you know that makes crabby paddy?
its all bout tricks... i never heard of the water method... but find no reason for it to not work.. :D
depends on the stud size like libby said giz.. for what ever odd reason they went back to a smaller stud... they started with small stud.. upgraded to the big stud as people were breaking little studs back in the 70s.. then went back to little studs so they break again..
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i usually just let the valve cover on and i put the belt on where ever it falls, then i turn the engine over, if something hits i move the belt one tooth on the cam until nothing hits anymore. then for injection timing i remove the injection lines and turn over the engine and until the #1 port on the injection squirts pretty close to tdc on the fly wheel. been doing it that way for years. we don't need all these wanna be engine ears on here over thinking the timing process, its real easy. then to tension it i just put it on tight, u can tell when the slack is good and tight the engine will sound super charged, then u just back off the tensioner a hair until it don't sound that way, like i said i been doing this for years i know what i am doing.
If this worked I'd say congratualtions..
Chris lol, you're one to talk about wording thigs to be understood correctly.
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Lol@chris
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<----- not a mod... why i do not want to be one.. on top of my political views really suck...
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It seems I have run into a snag. With my PD intake choice, coupled with my T3, the turbo compressor housing hits the intake manifold.
(http://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/2013-08-14-2231323234221376534173-ad13bd3230.jpg)
It's hard to see in the flash, but the compressor housing is butted up against the intake, whereas the turbo flange itself has about another 1/8-3/16 to be able to correctly sit on the exhaust flange. I think I may need a turbo spacer here.
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I think I may need a turbo spacer here.
***ty buzzzzzzzz
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just send the manifold to 8v so customs can loose it... :P
yea.. you know.. you need to ask bbob abt his turbo/mani set up.. we knew that fit was tight... had to cut things off his pd manifold.. and your cold side way bigger...
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Actually it's the same on the outside, the difference is in the inducer size on the compressor. I already lined them up, and the stock housing would have done the same thing. I'll give bbob a PM, hopefully I can find a solution. I really wish VW hadn't gone with this weird flange right about now, or I'd have just messages saying 'had to order spacer'. I really hope this doesn't affect my DP either.
EDIT: Wait . . Lucas . . I've got it! Lucas, hit me up if you get the chance tomorrow. I wanna see if your local machinist that cut your flywheel adapter might be looking for work. :)
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http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html
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was just going to recommend what Libby just posted. You could thin that down to around 1/4" or leave it 1/2" and have some space.
Mine worked out as the custom intake tubes were slanted just enough so I didn't have an issue :D
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you don't think a grinder could solve this problem?
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you don't think a grinder could solve this problem?
Did that with the AAZ manifold but this being the PD I don't know. I only needed to take off an 1/8" of the aaz manifold. Also check to see if clocking it will help if you haven't already done that.
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The site I linked also has 3/8 and stainless. $40 and 4 gaskets later it'd be done.
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if its only 1/8 or 3/16 off u can probably grind a little from the compressor housing and a little from the intake and everything will be happy go lucky, if not andrew number 1 has supplied you with a great solution.
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s bob needs to just have custom one like theman's made up.. overall probally best as performance gets a boost too.. just needs to be shorter as bunny hood closer then mk2 and well themans rubbing holes in the hood pad..
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http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/flanges-gaskets-36/header-flanges-194/volkswagen-209/volkswagen-8v-one-piece-header-flange-1-2-mild-steel-2358.html
This will be what I'm going to go with. Chris, you make a very good argument for a new mani, but this is cheaper and less time overall, as Lucas counter-argued. I know it lengthens the exhaust runners, but my car is small and my engine is big (compared to a 1.6); I think 1.9 liters and 25+ psi shouldn't have trouble getting 1800 lbs up to spooling revs. :)
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If you can get the necessary clearance with 3/8", then they also sell them 3/8" thick in both mild steel and stainless. The 3/8" mild steel one is only $30.
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Finally got some MK1 02A Transmission Mount brackets to replace the ones that were lost in the mail. They are admittedly not as high-quality appearing as the last set, but they are more functional, since the driver side trans mount bracket has the clutch cable bracket built in to it. Also, they were vastly less expensive than buying from domestic-produced competitors, even after adding shipping from Germany! They will get a coat of paint, a new rubber mount in the drivers mount bracket, and the trans will be ready to go in, once the 5th swap is completed.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/1002175_165790973609416_275411483_n.jpg)
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Finally got my 0.681 ratio 5th gear installed into my 02A transmission. Had to wait until I could find a suitable gear puller, as the first attempt chipped teeth off the old gear. I really wasn't worried, as I figured this would happen anyway knowing my luck. Got the old gears off, new ones on, synchro and gear selector assemblies back on and adjusted, and side plate installed with new seal. Don't worry; the dent in the side cover does not interfere whatsoever with the gear selection mechanism. Couple that with the flywheel getting re-machined for the new clutch, and the transmission is ready for installation!
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1175334_166135116908335_1459695550_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/998470_166135030241677_1533939547_n.jpg)
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The exhaust manifold flange/spacer finally came in the mail! So I mounted it up, and found that the turbo now clears the intake manifold; hell yes! Only now, the new exhaust studs that I thought would reach, don't. D'oh. Looks like I'll be needing a new set. And just when the new turbo bolts come in, I find the old ones. i'm on a roll for hardware this week. I didn't let all that stop me from making progress; loose mounted the manifold and turbo so that I could get the turbo oil drain line fabricated.
In other progress news, I started to get more things put on the engine. Got the engine oil gauge sender, oil 'idiot light' sensor, one of the two coolant temperature sensors, and the block heater mounted. Also got the fuel system mounted up with the rest of the hardware I received; injection pump mount and pump itself are now on the motor. I had to clearance the Mk2 timing belt cover backing plate for the big AAZ pump hub, though. Got the lines on hand-tight. Just need to remember to bring a wrench from work tomorrow and they'll be on for good also. Add hooking the injector return line up to the pump main return nipple, and you have 80% of the on-engine fuel system work done!
It's all down to bolts, belts, hardware, gaskets, timing and tests now, folks!
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What is this engine for again??
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What is this engine for again??
My '81 Rabbit. It's been waiting for this engine for 3 years. Check the Driiive forum bar.
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Nice nice.
You're going to tighten down the lines prior to setting the pump timing??
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CrazyAndy, how are you dealing with the passenger side engine mount?
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I guess I missed it somewhere on the past 16 pages, but how are you going to setup the shifter for the 02A again?
I keep making notes for my own little project 8)
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Looking real sweet Mr.
This would be a great time to add four wires and four fuses to the glow plugs ;D
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Nice nice.
You're going to tighten down the lines prior to setting the pump timing??
AAZs don't need their pump body turned to set timing; the TB cog is set up for adjustment. The pic doesn't show it, but the holes for the cog bolt are oval.
CrazyAndy, how are you dealing with the passenger side engine mount?
MK1 gasser mount; already primed and loaded.
I guess I missed it somewhere on the past 16 pages, but how are you going to setup the shifter for the 02A again?
I keep making notes for my own little project 8)
http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi69/pi38/pd648.html (http://www.clausvonessen.de/pi69/pi38/pd648.html)
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AAZs don't need their pump body turned to set timing; the TB cog is set up for adjustment. The pic doesn't show it, but the holes for the cog bolt are oval.
Not all AAZs are like this, but yours definitely is. That's a very interesting block heater.
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AAZs don't need their pump body turned to set timing; the TB cog is set up for adjustment. The pic doesn't show it, but the holes for the cog bolt are oval.
Not all AAZs are like this, but yours definitely is. That's a very interesting block heater.
Noted.
I got the block heater from Parts Place. It uses a weird toggle-bolt-like holder, but it seals tight. I figure it'll do fine.
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till the toggle breaks in the middle and it falls out the block when in a construction zone...
yes ive seen it...
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till the toggle breaks in the middle and it falls out the block when in a construction zone...
yes ive seen it...
. . . fudge it, I'm taking it out. Now I'm glad I bought an extra plug.
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just keep the spare in glove box... not too hard to install... hammer/socket... but i had one in my caddy let go... right after construction zone... id have been touchin my toes wishing for a kiss 5 min sooner...
had prestone in it... was installed w/grease on o-ring.. but looked like the o-ring had cristilized antifreeze that was odd corrosion effect and pushed it out the block... kinda like how a plastic neck deform on the head and breaks... but was under 2 year old... was still hanging in the hole.. so you could see how the t bolt bent/cracked... but drains coolent fast...
ill only use factory installed ones now...
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i had a similar one in my car with out issue. i probably only used had it in for a year or 2 before i sold the car tho. i didn't have any issues with it, i installed it using silicone grease.
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just keep the spare in glove box... not too hard to install... hammer/socket... but i had one in my caddy let go... right after construction zone... id have been touchin my toes wishing for a kiss 5 min sooner...
had prestone in it... was installed w/grease on o-ring.. but looked like the o-ring had cristilized antifreeze that was odd corrosion effect and pushed it out the block... kinda like how a plastic neck deform on the head and breaks... but was under 2 year old... was still hanging in the hole.. so you could see how the t bolt bent/cracked... but drains coolent fast...
ill only use factory installed ones now...
Fair enough. I won't be using prestone, but I'll keep my eye on the seal.
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LOL.. but at that time it was only bested by blue vw stuff... pink no exist...
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just keep the spare in glove box... not too hard to install... hammer/socket... but i had one in my caddy let go... right after construction zone... id have been touchin my toes wishing for a kiss 5 min sooner...
had prestone in it... was installed w/grease on o-ring.. but looked like the o-ring had cristilized antifreeze that was odd corrosion effect and pushed it out the block... kinda like how a plastic neck deform on the head and breaks... but was under 2 year old... was still hanging in the hole.. so you could see how the t bolt bent/cracked... but drains coolent fast...
ill only use factory installed ones now...
Spare freeze plug in the glove box? Install with hammer/ socket? That I'd like to see with engine in the car.
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?
I did it in the grass, turbo, drain line, engine mount, and all in the way, so I don't know what you have to remove, but I do know what I didn't have to remove. I just had the freeze plug, hammer, and socket and tapped it in. MK2 jetta if that matters to you. It isn't as easy as walking and chewing gum but it is very possible to swing the hammer in there. I am not a small guy either.
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?
I did it in the grass, turbo, drain line, engine mount, and all in the way, so I don't know what you have to remove, but I do know what I didn't have to remove. I just had the freeze plug, hammer, and socket and tapped it in. MK2 jetta if that matters to you. It isn't as easy as walking and chewing gum but it is very possible to swing the hammer in there. I am not a small guy either.
Did you do it from above or below?
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My preferred method:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y6mLQ76RZw8/TuEWcEXmaII/AAAAAAAAAfc/gu2xBlqgFLQ/s640/IMG_8930.JPG)
Precisely because I have direct access.
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My preferred method:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y6mLQ76RZw8/TuEWcEXmaII/AAAAAAAAAfc/gu2xBlqgFLQ/s640/IMG_8930.JPG)
Precisely because I have direct access.
What do you say about running on of these off the coolant line on the back of the head by the trasmission or pherhaps on the coolant hose on top by the alt? I would like to run on one in this position but it will make things a bit busy on a tdi with the factory oil cooler hose. Though now that I look at yours it is a td w/ oil cooler. I think warm startups are the key to reducing wear and maintaining longevity on these engines.
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?
I did it in the grass, turbo, drain line, engine mount, and all in the way, so I don't know what you have to remove, but I do know what I didn't have to remove. I just had the freeze plug, hammer, and socket and tapped it in. MK2 jetta if that matters to you. It isn't as easy as walking and chewing gum but it is very possible to swing the hammer in there. I am not a small guy either.
Did you do it from above or below?
Sorry...I laid on my back in the grass, below the car and tapped it in. I did not take ANYTHING off...it is a turbo car with the sausage stuffer intake that I just did if you didn't read the thread, but if you did you would have to realize that no human could drop a freeze plug with those items attached from up top let alone hammer it in.
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In my experience, the freeze plug heaters work very well. I have run them in multiple vehicles for 20+ years and haven't had any issues. The in-hose style is a distant second. Due to thermosiphon, the heated coolant will rise up to the head and create a convection current to gradually heat the block, but it is not nearly as efficient as having the element in the block itself. Placing one in-hose in the heater circuit will help get passenger heat quicker but reduce the positive impact of heating the engine iteself.
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??? how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...
There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?
I did it in the grass, turbo, drain line, engine mount, and all in the way, so I don't know what you have to remove, but I do know what I didn't have to remove. I just had the freeze plug, hammer, and socket and tapped it in. MK2 jetta if that matters to you. It isn't as easy as walking and chewing gum but it is very possible to swing the hammer in there. I am not a small guy either.
Did you do it from above or below?
Sorry...I laid on my back in the grass, below the car and tapped it in. I did not take ANYTHING off...it is a turbo car with the sausage stuffer intake that I just did if you didn't read the thread, but if you did you would have to realize that no human could drop a freeze plug with those items attached from up top let alone hammer it in.
OK I believe you. There's like 8 to 10 inches from freeze plug to fire wall? Not much distance to "swing" a hammer. So you did this as an emergency side of the road repair when your block heater came off and you were able to hammer in a freeze plug? What kind of jack did you have at the time and how high did you raise the car to get under it?
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mine was caddy/mk1... more room them mk2.. normal floor jack.. gravel muddy driveway.. piece o fwood fo rjack so it did not sink so fast... i was like 2 miles from home when mine went ... i limped it... but i fit had happened 5 min sooner before construction zone id have been toast... no ware to pull off sitution..
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I had a normal floor jack, on grass. 8-10 inches is there but you only need a couple to tap in the freeze plug, you are not driving in a rail road spike. I tapped it with maybe 2" of throw to get it started and it went so easy I kept on tapping it. Mine was not a block heater that failed. Mine was a freeze plug that came out.
I am not small so I have to lift the car until the suspension is slack to even get my head to fit under the oil pan. I jacked it up maybe 19"
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TURBO TIME!
Yesterday, I got my longer set of studs in the mail. I finally got around to putting them in the cylinder head so that I could do the final mounting of the exhaust manifold. Got it and the spacer on and torqued down. Then, finally the time as come for mounting the turbocharger!
Before mounting the turbo, I secured one end of the turbo drain line onto the turbo, with a home-made gasket in between. I got some lapping compound onto the exhaust manifold and tried to lap the turbo to the manifold. I did this because on this turbo setup the turbo does not have a gasket between it and the manifold; it's just the way it was designed. Lapping didn't do much actually, barely even dulled the surface. I guess it won't need it. I cleaned the mating surfaces of lapping compound and torqued the turbo down on the manifold all nice and tight.
Now I moved on to re-doing the turbo oil drain line. Previously I had used all-rubber hose, which would have seeped oil and soaked it up like a sponge. I replaced that with some mylar-inner-lined tubing from the friendly local auto parts store. Got that put onto the line ends and tightened down with clamps.
Tightened the block drain bolt, and the turbo is now officially mounted!
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The check list is shortened to 4 things:
-Timing tools
-Installing timing belt
-Modifying and installing turbo oil feed line
-Mounting misc. sensors, brackets, hoses, and mounts.
Can't wait until that is done and it's on to oil leak testing!
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Do you have a pic of the compressor side to show how much clearance you have?
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Very nice work sir. Looks like you'll be up and running soon.
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In order to lap a flat surface, it is counterproductive to use lapping compound. Instead, use a piece of sandpaper on top of a known-to-be flat surface and lube it with something like WD-40. I have a polished granite sink cutout that I use for large object (cylinder head or all four exhaust port flanges) and smaller milled flat 1" thick pieces of steel for smaller surfaces.
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Do you have a pic of the compressor side to show how much clearance you have?
Ask and ye shall get that pic :)
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Thanks for the tip, Andrew. I'll just let the turbo develop a good carbon seal like the factory did. Still, I'll remember that when I have to lap flat stuff nest time; what grit(s) of sandpaper do you use?
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I think your inducer looks smaller than mine
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Well, another H2O has come and gone, and all I have left is a sunburn, a hangover, and a crap-ton of photos!
https://driiive.com/CrazyAndy/1972-Volkswagen-Type-2-Transporter/#!/timeline/591 (https://driiive.com/CrazyAndy/1972-Volkswagen-Type-2-Transporter/#!/timeline/591)
In other engine news, I came home to a nice box of parts! Got the thermostat and other coolant temp sensor on, also test fit coolant transfer hose, and found it actually fit on an AAZ without modification! I did have to push it a little don on the head outlet, but there's more than enough for a clamp to grab I think. If I find any problems with it sitting well when I clamp them down, I''ll just lengthen it anyway. Unfortunately the hose that goes to the transfer pipe was the wrong type, so no pipe mounting today.
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As far as today, I got the passenger side engine mount insert pressed into the bracket at work today, and layed down a thick layer of paint on the assembly at home. trans is now good to go!
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I'm talking to somebody right now to get a trubo oil feed line fabricated, and that's the only oil system part I need for pressure testing.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-OIL-FEED-VW-GOLF-TDI-MK4-BRAIDED-TURBO-OIL-FEED-HOSE-/151024645161?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2329c53429&vxp=mtr took 2 days to get to my place.
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Damn Bbob, isn't this like the third thing you've found for me? I should start paying you a finder's fee! :) Thanks man.
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FINALLY got my braided turbo oil feed lien in the mail! Got that thing on the motor right quick, and it went on without incident. The OEM-style mounting banjo bolt and crush washers can even be used, and the angled fitting on the turbo end even has an o-ring fitting; good quality! Couple that with the fact that the OEM line clamp can hold it, and I'm a happy purchaser. Also put in the oil drain plug in anticipation for the upcoming oil test next week. After that, it's tightening the crank cog bolt, timing the pump and cam gears while installing the belt, and installing the flywheel. I'll have to take the engine off the stand for those steps which means moving the engine to it's new resting place, near the car itself!
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Looking good! Glad i could help! The lines are great as much as i don't like buying chinese you can't beat it.
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Nice work - very clean.
Your bedroom is going to get big again but now you have to sleep alone ;)
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Nice work - very clean.
Your bedroom is going to get big again but now you have to sleep alone ;)
Speaking of which, the bedroom is quite roomy now . . .
Got the engine out to the barn where I've been keeping the Rabbit. I got the car prepared for the engine by draining the tank and cutting off the old exhaust. I pulled the 2-ish gallons of old diesel out of the tank and it wasn't bad, but I'll still start with some new fuel for posterity. The exhaust was easy and only took 12 minutes and an angle grinder. Then I loosely installed the valve cover and tested the oil system without the cooler take-off installed. Se makes oil pressure easily and without a single leak; the 18V drill wore out it's two batteries pumping the oil! Before all this, back home, I had installed the oil dipstick tube. Kinda neanderthal'd the end by hitting it in with a 3/3+ extension, knocking it square, but the plastic tube covers it snugly so I'm not worried.
I really wish I could have timed the engine, but no local parts shop had an old style timing belt tensioner, so that will have to wait until next weekend to go on. After that, it's installation time. Still need to buy electronic control components for the new stuff in the bay, as well as planning how to get it all to fit around the radiator and still have fans on the coolers. It's getting so close to install day, but that doesn't mean the work is over.
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You look very proud in that photo - you should be.
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bob's luck.... rain storm and buildings lightning strike... or some theif watching this thread... get it in the car... :P
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I love this picture:
(https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1382238_182281595293687_65197883_n.jpg)
That thing just needs a propeller on the front and it'll take off by itself!!
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Going through parts list on what to buy still, and kind of ran into a snag. i already asked something like this on Lucas' thread, but I'll ask here for posterity:
I was originally thinking of running a Carter P60430 fuel pump like I do in my Bus (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p60430/overview/) since I have had good experience with that pump. Also since it's a scroll type it will still pull if it fails. It wouldn't be hard to mount under the floor near the tank (better pusher than a puller). Has low amp draw, too. Only downside is that it's kinda loud; I can hear it under the Bus at KOEO, 7 feet away under the floorboard. Thoughts? Think it will be adequate for my setup?
As for auxiliary electrics I think I have settled on my relay/fuse setup:
Hella interlocking fuse and relay blocks (http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/accessories/electrics-product-13/, http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/accessories/electrics-category-1/electrics-product-13/)
Bud Industries weather proof box mounted in rain tray (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bud-Industries/NBB-15240/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTvdqSgsXeLH19lHTJT81EOYk%3d)
Last part, little iffy (radial plug pin numbering and arrangement confuses me), but box-out connector will be screw-in mil-e-qual radial plug (http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/waytek/catalog226/#/41/OnePage, second from top on catalog page, the 14 pin)
Sheath it all up in some heat shrink rubber tubing and branch it all off to input/output/signal wires accordingly.
Doesn't sound too bad of a setup, and should be safe from the elements. Only thing now electrical to plan is to find out how to get the tough EGT cables into the cabin. Any recommendations?
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Sounds good on your setup. No real recommendations on the pump. BUT for the EGT line, I got this stuff from Gee Bee on the board. I think he called it fire shield? It can withstand over 2200f and is very abrasion and cut resistant. Maybe try contacting him and see if he has it. It was pretty cheap IIRC but this was 4 years ago or so. I don't know if you could tell in the pics I have but if you can see it in my pics in my thread it also houses my boost tubing for the gauge. It is black and textured, not like the black silicone hose. It is probably 5/8" OD. Worth a shot.
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Not sure what your mount set-up is, but if it's hard mounted using a steel strap/clamp to the frame or body, the whole car is a speaker.
Mount it using some rubber mounts from McMaster Carr (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/yhOHwpgz5C4nE-sSPfo_aeul5yixU2RNdqreJ5n4T0s=w112-h207-p-no) and I'll bet it's much quieter. They are about 2 bucks each and you'll have them in a day.
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AND THIS THREAD LIVES AGAIN!!
Finally got the bolts for the transmission housing from Lucas, so it's time to install the engine. Luckily everything else was up where the car was stored, transmission and all, so I went there and got to work. With the new bolts and washers installed, it was time to raise the hoist up and drop the engine in. The positioning of the engine was easy enough; it was the alignment of the two side motor mounts that was the hardest part. The installation position of the crane canted the engine forward just enough that the mounts' center holes for the bolts were not aligned with the mount points on the body, necessitating the raising and lowering of the engine multiple times with the bolts half-in their holes so that the engine weight would torque the mount center sections enough so that the bolts lined up. But after raising, lowering, prying, holding, and cursing for over 2 hours, the engine is finally in the car where it should be; granted it sits a little torqued since the front mount has yet to be installed, but it is in at long last. There is still much to install, clearance, test fit, fasten, route, wire, and break in, but this wayward puzzle has found it's biggest missing piece.
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BAM! Loving the sock filter too:D
Not sure what your mount set-up is, but if it's hard mounted using a steel strap/clamp to the frame or body, the whole car is a speaker.
Mount it using some rubber mounts from McMaster Carr (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/yhOHwpgz5C4nE-sSPfo_aeul5yixU2RNdqreJ5n4T0s=w112-h207-p-no) and I'll bet it's much quieter. They are about 2 bucks each and you'll have them in a day.
Those are free of the air cleaner of Mercedes diesels too.
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Good job, crazy andy,mike,spongebob. Soon it will roar to life. Take it easy on that turbo :D
also, with your luck, I would cover the fuel inlet on that pump. Don't want junk dust or whatever getting in there.
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no oil cooler?
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The cooler boss was left off for initial oil priming to leak check; it will be installed and the oil primed again before initial start up. I'll also get back up there and tape off the fuel inlet. Hopefully the pump doesn't have anything else in it from sitting all this time empty.
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Beautiful! Psyched to see the rabbit coming to life finally!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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Please video her first startup!! Congrats!
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Pat on the back - your patience and determination is showing ;)
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Is it alive? ::)
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No but got some work done. Got the coolant hard line in, and all the coolant lines aside from the radiator hoses are installed and clamped down. Also hooked up the wires on the trans side of the head, as well as the throttle and choke cables. Did some mocking up for the oil and intercooler coolers and the new radiator location. Got the front engine mount installed. Bought and installed an air filter to top it all off.
Here's where the issues start. The intercooler pipe is taller than the hood if I route it over the valve cover. The CRX clutch cable I bought didn't work, but it was aftermarket. I need 20 mm longer starter bolts. I need to bump the passenger frame rail out a bit for the serpentine belt tensioner, or shift the engine over to the driver side some more. I also may need to shim the front mount cup out a bit since the sides of the mount rubber contact the cup but not the base (Is that how it's supposed to be? IDK). I need to trim the aftermarket rear trans mount bracket because the shift linkage is hitting it and not being able to go into 2/4 area because of it. I need to shorten the upper rad hose in the middle a bit to avoid extreme bending. I need to get the new electrical circuit supplies for the gauges and pumps. I need to fab a slim radiator fan cover and install an aftermarket slimline fan since the original motor is now about where the oil filter is. I need to get high pressure oil resistant hose to plumb the cooler in, and maybe get a shorter smaller oil filter. I need to get another coolant reservoir, as the old one has more oil residue in it than I thought.
Tomorrow I'll install the accessory bracket, plug in the last of the stock wiring, drill holes in the rad support for the rad/cooler mountings, get bend fittings for the coolers and install them, wire the ground strap in somehow, modify the rear mount bracket, and other things I'm sure I'm forgetting. I'm very tired so I'm going to stop typing now.
Pics:
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can you take a big picture, picture? I may have a possible solution if I could see the rest of your bay.
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Sure, what angle?
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The problem with the metal pipes is heat soak, I made custom silicone intakes for the 1.8 t installation for stepansautohaus.com
huge assys for the vanagon conversion
GermanMotorwerks saw my work and I made there intake and coolant hoses also
I would like to see somebody here use a off the shelf intercooler and pd intake and mock it up and let me make a complete silicone intake system.
I would do 3' oblong to 2.25 at the ends with 2.25 round to insert the joiner
GB
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Okay, got those pics of the engine bay today. installed the accessory bracket and alternator to simulate a complete assembled engine with accessories. Also found out the lower alt bolt wont go in due to the frame rail being in the way; I might have to remove the front engine mount for a hot minute when I go for final install. Furthermore, with the alternator installed, there's no room for where I thought I was going to relocate the radiator, so that idea just took a flying leap off a cliff. Still, I can just reverse the originally proposed mounting for the coolers and be fine with it, but this might mean the hoses for the oil cooler get routed a little funky, we'll see. Finally, left the air box out because I can go cone filter if I need to; more on that in a sec.
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Now, you're probably wondering why I took the 7th picture how I did. I was thinking this: Maybe I route the pipe around where the air box goes (and mount a cone filter under the piping instead of using the air box), pass the pipe between the alt and upper rad hose by spacing the radiator up 1 inch on it's mounts with washers, and run the AWIC core and final pipe in the same proposed mounting position. It's much longer that I was hoping, but it gets the job done. Now I also have to figure out if I'm even going to be able to put fans on the coolers anymore, because between the rad going back into it's home position, and little room between the coolers and the grille, the fans I originally bought for this don't fit at all, even with the grille removed.
After all that, but before leaving, I also decided to test mount the downpipe. It's a great-looking piece, but there are some issues.
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If you can tell in the first two pics (the second is more clear as to the area I'll be discussing), the pipe is hitting the shift linkage assembly near it's lower pivot area, as well as pointing about 5-7 degrees too far clockwise. The third pic shows where the pipe will need to be modified. It will need to be cut ad relocated to be about 2 inches more toward the passenger side as well as being rotated the above mentioned degrees counterclockwise.
That's all I was able to get done today, since there were other things that demanded my presence today, but I still brought all the pieces I need to modify home, so there will be work during the weekday until I can get out there next weekend to maybe mount the oil cooler assembly. Most everything else is either needing to be bought or modified. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to find my Dremel, because it has a hot date with Ms.'s Timing Belt Cover and Rear Engine Mount before going round the back to get busy on making a new custom radiator fan shroud from sheet metal. Ooh yeah baby, hot cutting action tomorrow night!
CrazyAndy, out!
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
Trust me dude, I did not mean my DP comments as a "WTF he should have done better"; rather its more like "Wow he got THAT close!". Yeah I was hoping I'd get to use the MK2 air box, but alas it is not to be. Vanvcguy, if you're out there, this really shows the differences between MK1 and MK3 engine bays in terms of underhood size and engine placement; it show that while we can plan for similar setups, but in reality the available space means we must think about our routings.
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for the lower alt bolt, drill a hole in the frame horn you can poke its head into for R&R. Use an Allen if you want it smaller. It would suck having to swing the engine to swap alternators on the road somewhere.
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Is that a MKI would relocate the battery to the back or under using a knietic type.
Is that a MK1 td airbox, if yor not going to use it let me know, I will pay for the K&N assy you need for your install as a trade
I make those snorkels to the turbo in two different I.D. depending on the Turbo inlets O.D.
GB
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
Trust me dude, I did not mean my DP comments as a "WTF he should have done better"; rather its more like "Wow he got THAT close!". Yeah I was hoping I'd get to use the MK2 air box, but alas it is not to be. Vanvcguy, if you're out there, this really shows the differences between MK1 and MK3 engine bays in terms of underhood size and engine placement; it show that while we can plan for similar setups, but in reality the available space means we must think about our routings.
No I know you weren't ripping on me, I just got to thinking when you did it "why wouldn't it fit" and then remembered it is 3/4" taller and you moved it toward the firewall. I cannot see where it is hitting the shift stuff so it should be really close to working for you, I hope.
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More Rabbit work today, figuring out the placement and routing of the coolers again. Finally decided that I'd mount the coolers near the upper part of the grille area, and that actually means I can use auxiliary fans now. Also decided that since I won't be using the airbox and the AWIC core takes up less space, I can rout the oil cooler lines around the bottom of the frame horn and up around near the headlamp bucket where the oil cooler fittings are; and so it is. Only drawback is that I need a shorted oil filter now.
I tilted the AWIC radiator on it's side, and I still have room for a 90 degree fitting or two; this will also mean I can feed the rad from the bottom so it's a reverse flow which will keep air bubbles out of the AWIC rad tanks. Now I need to decide where the pump goes. I'll probably tuck it in the fender; out of the way and a good low point in the system.
Things are finally coming along nicely. Getting better all the time!
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Great work!
What oil cooler is that and where did you get in and the sandwich plate? Where are you going to put your filter?
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I got all this from Summit. The sandwich adapter is a Trans-Cool, and the cooler core is a Derale trans cooler. The oil filter will be in the stock location under the sandwich (it's just a take-off not a reroute), but the filter is an inch shorter as a result of the sandwich.
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Send me your address and the o.d. of the hose clamps, I will send you some lined s/s type free...
I hate to see that junk being used...
GB
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Okay, I'll PM you and we can work something out. Sorry if I don't know of other types of clamps; AutoZone only gets so fancy.
This weekend I finally got the mounting for the oil cooler finalized; paired with some pre-drilled bracket stock and an oil filter that is short enough to be used with my oil cooler take-off (I'll get a little longer one after first warm-up), the main components of the oil cooler are mounted. The plus is that the cooler can fit behind the radiator with it having to be canted back only about 3-4 degrees! The only other things I have to do on that part of the job is find out which hose is the supply hose so I can make it feed the cooler end opposite the temperature sensor so the fan relay sees the oil temps post-cooler; that way the cooler fan isn't always running from the hot pre-cooled oil.
I also did some test mounting of the AWIC core, and I can continue with the plan for mounting it on it's side. I had to move the core fan up so that it can fit behind the radiator and not have to slant the radiator more, but it works. After fiddling with the potential hose routing (you can see in the 7th photo I pondered passing it over the top of the oil cooler), I decided to pass both hoses below the oil cooler since there's enough room as the 5th pic shows. I thought about where I could mount the AWIC circulation pump, and I was thinking in the fender well between the sheet metal and frame horn like in the last pic would be a nice, low point in the system to put it at. I just need to make sure the pump feeds from the cold side of the AWIC radiator to the core inlet, so that way the pump stays as cool as it can be.
I finally banged out how I'd like the AWIC core to mount in the air box area: Turned about 30 deg. clockwise with a downward slope equal to that of the hood. I just need to make the compressor-to-core hose configuration a 2"-2" 90 deg. band, and a 2"-2.5" 45 deg. bend, and then make the core outlet a 2.5"2" 135 deg. bend; it's all 2" piping and smooth 90 deg. bends from there.
And through it all, I still haven't remembered to buy new rad hoses and modify my rear TB cover trans mount; derp!
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Nice looking intercooler!
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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Thanks; your kit was the inspiration. I only wish there was enough hood space on a mK1 to run it like you did. Oh well, it's only $134 more in piping.
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It wont matter as the hard pipe is phrone to heat soak, feel it when your done..
Stephansautohaus had the same problem until I took what they were using and made on complete silicone assy
I plan on relocating battery, using mk1td airflilter assy,custom intercooler with both outlets on the same side
2' thickness will allow to still have a/c compressor if you notch the frame where the a/c compressor ...
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=281944
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Well i haven't bought any new pipe yet, so if you wanna talk business just reply to my IM and we can set something up.
I do like your idea with your AWIC setup; I just wanted to keep my battery in the same place since I figured on using this thing every day when I started to build it and wanted all the trunk space minus a small sub, so I'm still building it to that ethos.
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does not look like it ready fo rroad trip yet... guess mk3 tdi is ride to ohio this week huh.. :D
when in post office setting up mail.. sending off electric company deposites and such.. saw something and thought of you.. nathan has at shop :D
drive safe.. see you tuesday.. towing my coupe down to new place :D you will getta see it.. :D just happy i can drive thru new place so i no have to push it in door.. :D unless they filled my place while i was gone..
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Time again for another Rabbit Update. This time, AWIC water circuit plumbing!
After thinking about the routing of the air to water intercooler's water hoses, I decided to run both cooler radiator lines under the oil cooler since there's enough room to fit them without kinking the bends like passing the upper hose over the oil cooler would have done. I also found a pretty good way to mount the water pump using an expanded metal pipe hanger. If I get any undue noise from the pump through the body, I'll go back and put a strip of rubber either around the pump body or where the strap attaches to the inner fender well. I also used some pre-drilled bar stock to fab some basic AWIC core brackets, but there's still some wiggle room in case I need to adjust it to get the hoses to clear. The only line that did not want to bend without collapsing was the short line from the pump outlet to the core. I need to get another 3/4" elbow and clamps, and the system will be completed. The only concern I have is bleeding the system, but if worse comes to worse I can always use the capped end on the pump as a first-fill/bleed port.
I am about to order the rest of the silicone bends to complete the post-turbo side of the intake; I am (against gee-bee's wishes most likely) going to retain the metal pipe, but have decided to double wrap all the piping in foil heat tape to insulate them. Now I just need to figure out where the filter will go. If a 180 degree silicone bend can go under the hood, I can run a pipe over the back of the engine near the firewall and mount a paper cone filter over the transmission. Anyone else have any other ideas? Only other issue I can see is still the 90 degree reducer exiting the core having to bend another 10-12 degrees, but the flex doesn't limit the internal diameter so I'm not really worried about it right now. If it does pose a problem, then I'll think about getting a mandrel-bent piece welded on in place of the original outlet or something like that.
Above all this, I just need to remember to mount and adjust my clutch cable and shift linkage before running a fartload of piping over them. After that it's just the downpipe and fan/pump wiring. It's happening!!!
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You are going to find you have a hard time getting the air out of the AWIC with it oriented the way it is. It takes a fair bit of futzing to get mine clear of air and my outlet is on the top.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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I'm going to use a rad filler funnel to fill and air bleed the system initially; I also might try reversing the pump during filling so that the pump sucks water in from the core rather than trying to initially pull it through the hoses. Don't worry, I know the system needs some work; if it doesn't get rid of all the air, I'll just try some rerouting and see what happens then.
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why dont you mount your oil cooler like this ???
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/12/da7epusa.jpg)
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Hey Travidoodle, your car looks good with the fag-man on the cooler lololol.
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Because Travy my boy I wish to never have to think, as I approach a curb or speed bump, the thought "I hope I don't lose oil pressure again!" As an extension of that thought which I never want to think, the car will never be excessively lowered; I've put too much into her just to lose over 5 grand and 3 years to a quirky styling trait.
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Lol nice
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
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Reminds of charter buses in mexico...
GB
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I am running one of the FrozenBoost intercoolers as well. I actually drilled a "bleeder hole" in mine (very carefully), with a separate vent hose running back to the water reservoir (a Coleman type cooler) in order to give any trapped air a pathway to escape.
Steve.
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I like that idea; might find a way to do that on the radiator if it doesn't cause a problem or if the air doesn't bleed out.
I was able to get another afternoon to work on the Rabbit this weekend. The biggest accomplishments are being completely done (exception of potential air bleed on radiator) with the water circuit on the air-to-water intercooler, and only one silicone bend away from completing the boost piping also. It was nice to see that I wouldn't need to radically modify the radiator's height positioning to fit the boost piping; the only drawback was that the setup needed a new slim radiator fan. Fortunately the side I bought the boost piping off of also sells fans, so that is another box ticked as well! I wil need to figure out how to wire it's 2 wires into the 3-wire Mk1 rad fan plug, though.Only other big thing that day is that I tried swapping the original Mk1 reverse switch into the shift tower on the 02A transmission. The lengths, thread size and pitch, and even switch actuator end were 100% the same, so that's one switch plug I won't have to splice in. Next time it's going to be about mounting the new transmission-side clutch cable bracket I got in the mail, as well as the new alternator I had to get (used one was bad) with it's new clutched pulley. I also need to get a starter but that's easy; the downpipe still remains unmodified, and that's the biggest puzzle piece still out there.
Anyone out there know of a good heat wrap to put on the pipes?
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u can get a 2 wire fan switch, but the 3 wire is basically the same except i think its supposed to come on at 2 different temps, that or the extra wires just feeds hot straight to the fan when the ac is turned on. but if u get a fan switch for a non ac car it should be 2 wire.
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Good deal
You should be able to leave off one of the wires like Rabbit Jockey said. Are you going to run the stock temp switch or am I thinking too hard?
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I have contacted a member here on the forum that has purchased a used callaway 1.6 a/c kit ( MK1 )
I want to get the hardlines ( tubing ) and make from silicone 4 ply..
The intercooler could be remade also, it below the battery and has a scoop..
I have pics if intersted...
[email protected]
Where is your air inlet at on your build ?
GB
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I have contacted a member here on the forum that has purchased a used callaway 1.6 a/c kit ( MK1 )
I want to get the hardlines ( tubing ) and make from silicone 4 ply..
The intercooler could be remade also, it below the battery and has a scoop..
I have pics if intersted...
[email protected]
Where is your air inlet at on your build ?
GB
The air filter was originally going to be a stock MK2 TD air box, but now I think I'll route it behind the engine on the outside of the rain tray to over the transmission where I'll use a universal air box. From there I can run some accordion hose to the drivers fender well under the battery. That way, I won't have to force another hose around the engine on the passenger side frame rail, and the engine will still get cooler, moderate-pressure air.
As far as the callaway setup, go on and send the pics, but I don't really get what you're trying to say here; are you saying I should use that setup? I'm very financially invested into this setup as of now, and to redesign now would cost me a parts value loss of almost $700, and I won't get that when reselling the setup parts IF I can resell them. This build is starting to lean on my wallet hard, and it costs less right now to go forward than to step back. Unless I am getting the wrong impression from your message, then please do set me right.
I am going to run the stock temp switch (2-wire) since I'm still using the stock-style radiator. I'm going to find which wire(s) need to be used on the fan and run them in the appropriate fashion; if one of the wires really does require a low-speed operation, a resistor is not hard to wire in. I just need to find my MK1 Bentley . . . where did that thing get to?
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Here's some stuff I did last weekend:
-Modify and mount my timing belt cover
-Test fit the new bending reducer, and make plans to trim both it and the 90 degree turn it goes to
-Realize that my fan plug was 2-wire all along, and plan to put new connectors on the wires for the fan spades
-Mount up my crank and water pump pulleys, finding out on the way that I wouldn't have to space out the water pump
pulley after all.
-Test mount the new radiator hoses, and make plans for upper rad brackets.
-Cut of the aftermarket trans mount's clutch cable bracket and test for the new clutch bracket which mounts on the bolt, closer to the
actuator.
That's all I got, really, since I forgot my big tools at my house. Would have connected the drive shafts and set up the shift linkage also, but I couldn't properly without my tools.
Also, I just got back from test mounting my modified downpipe, and realize now that it isn't going to work; the bend passes through were the drive shaft goes through, the shift mechanism hits the side, and the last bend even with modification can't pass under the steering rack since the flex section is too close. I'm going to cut the flange off and have it done locally. Sorry Lucas.
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Techtonics has 2.0 and 2.5 mk1 downpipes ready to go
various turbos as I sent them various models for the 1.9
I sent them my tubular exhaust manifold and GTB turbo for a custom downpipe as my turbo exit is on the passenger side
I will have more room with this build as Iam using a o2a and cable shift...
you need a 45 to 45 on your elbows with a joiner
GB
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I guess so; the only thing that would be an issue then is if my exhaust having to be spaced 1/2" inch off the head would cause an issue, but probably not since that's not too much of a distance even in a turbo mk1.
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Okay, this Rabbit update is a conglomeration of the past 2 weekends of work from the past 3 weeks:
Weekend one
-Wrapped the boost pipes in heat-reflecting tape, and had end lips welded on the long pipe.
-Got clamps for the radiator hoses.
-Used some drilled straight iron for a radiator support strap; going to duplicate and mount on the other side as well.
-Checked CRX cable with new mount bracket; cable still too short; ordered Eurowise modified cable.
-Primed the engine oil pump to see which oil cooler line is the supply, then hooked up the lines to the cooler. Primed the oil pump for 5 minutes to test for leaks (dang that's a thirsty setup; took a whole quart) and found some minute leaks at the 90 degree bends. I'm going to pull the cooler out and get the bends brazed, which in hindsight I should have done in the first place.
Weekend 2:
-Mounted recently-delivered Eurowise clutch cable; just had to pull the mechanism in a bit to slide the cable on, but it fits great
-Mounted new 02A starter with dealer-sourced, starter bolts, which luckily have threaded studs on their heads which make great engine ground cable mounting points.
-Installed new battery ground cable(s).
-Put car on stands, removed axles, greased inner CV joints, and installed axles on transmission along with paper inner CV flange gaskets. Inner joints don't bind as far as I know with suspension compression.
-Modified rear trans bracket to fit past shifter linkage, and found out that the design is junk; it's the wrong spacing and angle to the body mount plate. I'm going to have to source a better-designed part. These cheap mounts have turned out to be nothing but trouble.
-Checked operation of clutch with axles now installed; great pedal feel, with engagement about 2/5ths up the sweep.
I am SO glad these axles look like they're going to work, and the new clutch cable works the mechanism well. Now it's getting intake parts, rear mount, shift linkage, and wiring. Then, she'll start up.
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Cannot wait to hear what it does
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Carry on Mr. Very close.
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Too bad tt downpipe that ive seen in person hit floor behind rack... Good luck with that... Never buy tt junk.. And had no guilt cutting it to fix it right... Had to fix 2 of them...
What axles u use??
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Past '86 Cabriolet; all the 100mm CV joint without the MK2 length.
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I think this will work for you, if not I will purchase it from you...''
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390515779701?ssPageName=STRK:MEBOFFX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1427.l2649#ht_2545wt_983
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did not get to see this car this weekend :^( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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The jokes on you... He switched cars after you left.... He towed it down due to break in... ;D
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Instead of sourcing a new, better designed rear transmission mount, I decided instead to modify the current mount to reach the rubber mount at the right distance and angle. For this I needed some 3/16" bar stock, and the help of my friend Travis and his welder. We also had to modify the bottom mount a bit for the HD rubber mount by widening the locator pin hole so that the pin wold fit through as it was farther out from the lower securing stud than stock. After that, we cut the lower mounting plate off the upper mount and assembled the mount with the plate bolted to it so we could see how much bar stock we would need to lengthen the mount and where we would need to put it. With that measured, we took a 2 1/2" length of the bar stock, put it on the back of the mount with it still assembled, and tack welded it in place; that way when we took the mount out, we could weld a piece of 2 1/8" bar stock on the other corner of the mount and have it hold everything together while we removed the piece we tack welded and redid it so that the welds were better. Each metal join received big weld beads on each side, ensuring the pieces we added were strongly secured and would not break off. It was the first time I had ever welded, so the welds weren't very good looking but functional; a theme for the car so far. After laying on thick wet coats of some white primer and paint we had around the work space, we let it dry to a tack and mounted it on the car. It works perfectly! The mount is correctly oriented and isn't pulled around to an unusual position by either mount plate. The job took 3.5 hours total, but the result was a perfectly functional and strong (if more than a bit ugly) rear transmission mount. Thank you very much, Travis, for your help and knowledge with welding, and teaching me a thing or two about it in the process. it's always great to learn a new skill, if only as an amateur.
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I do applaud your efforts to "fab" your own mount. Are you sure you want to hold all that nice new motor up with those welds?
Not trying to be mean - but I've been watching all this work and if that mount fails, things could get expensive.
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I do applaud your efforts to "fab" your own mount. Are you sure you want to hold all that nice new motor up with those welds?
Not trying to be mean - but I've been watching all this work and if that mount fails, things could get expensive.
I hear you, but it did pass the "Hit it hard on the end of the table multiple times" test, so I have a good feeling that it will hold together; remember each side was welded with a LOT of welding filler. If it doesn't work, we pull it back off, do a better welding job, and stick it back in. The front mount does a decent job of holding the engine still when the rubber is good, so there's still a back-up. At this point, forget the price tag. It will run by the end of the summer; either it runs with some tuning and stays good for along time, or kills me by exploding in half 5 seconds after first start.
I become . . . impatient.
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Carry on!
FWIW, your engine will perform the table-smack-test about a billion times a day.
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The welds don't "look" the best, but if it penetrated it will hold up for a bit. It would never pass x ray or the bend test but again, if it penetrated enough it should hold...at least for a while. I would get it on road and then on the lift for some more welding later, but I love overkill.
I hope you get it running soon. I want to see what the T3 will do for you. If it was my head that kept popping them or if it is a function of the turbo being modded.
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More work done to the Rabbit this Saturday. Finally got the bends of the oil cooler brazed so that they don't leak, and sealed the rest with VW sealant for BPY cam bridges. The brass parts don't turn anymore in the cooler and are sealed against leaks, and are for good if that stuff holds up like I've seen it do on it's stock application. Put the fan back on, and it slotted right back in it's installation area. I also bought a stock VW 1.8T/2.slow oil filter to try fitting instead of the shorty filter I put on for the in-car oil leak test, but didn't get time to fit it; either way, that's the oil system taken care of.
After that I turned to trimming the two boost hoses that go between the turbo compressor outlet and AWIC core. Each needed about 8-10mm trimmed from their ends so that the hoses fit and the bend reducer to the core didn't rub on the passenger strut tower. The reducer is pulled a bit, but only about 9-10 degrees so it's not going to break or anything. It also just misses the strut tower, but doesn't hit any of the studs on the tower. That's the pressure side of the intake tract taken care of, but I'll stretch either some cheesecloth or a cheap filter over the turbo intake for initial start until .
Next thing on the list, fuel lines. I picked the fuel supply line off the old fuel pump, cleaned it up, and mounted it on the pump and filter housing. I also mounted the braided return line I had ordered long ago. I will stick the fuel filter assembly behind the passenger strut tower for initial start-up; after that I will put some studs through the rain tray and do a true hard mount. 5 gallons of diesel and a mityvac to prime the injection pump, and that's the fuel system taken care of for initial start-up.
Last thing I did that day was wire the oil cooler fan control relay. Mounted it behind the passenger headlamp on the fender side wall and ran the wires near the AWIC water hoses. The power supply and relay control wires went directly to the battery positive terminal, and the control ground went to the thermal switch in the oil cooler. The power supply wire needs to be wired into the right wire on the fan (blue and black wires, not marked for polarity), and the oil cooler body and fan need dedicated chassis grounds. That is not even 1/3 of the wiring that needs to be done, but the rest will be wired next weekend.
Final little bits include buzzing off the transmission-mounted shifter relay's ball ends and pressing the rest through their holes to prepare the relay for the Claus Von Essen 02A rod shift conversion, and installing the speedometer cable in the transmission. Both these parts will be installed next week, with the shifter needing adjustment and the cable possibly needing modification on the instrument cluster end. I could essentially start it up right now, and I might do that next week if the parts install goes smoothly next Saturday.
TCB, man.
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cool. I think you should start it for about 30 seconds and then check for leaks. If you are good, then go run it, if the wiring is done. I wouldn't let it idle for much more than that. Looks good too.
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Went up this weekend. Filled the tank with fuel, primed the lines with my mityvac, put the last of the stock wires to their connections on the engine, dropped a battery in, primed it, hit the key and then . . .
Catharsis
http://youtu.be/9jn74Ylau04 (http://youtu.be/9jn74Ylau04)
I'll need the correct oil idiot light sender, as this one is normally open instead of normally closed; that's why you didn't see the light. Now it's just shifter, speedo, and wiring before being towed to the exhaust and alignment shop. I might just make H2OI with this turd.
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I would not let it idle more than you have there. Rings need dealt with. Good job and I hope your turbo makes it. I have a procedure down for cleaning out the intake tract when the turbo explodes I can give you if needed :D
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Nice!!
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I would not let it idle more than you have there. Rings need dealt with. Good job and I hope your turbo makes it. I have a procedure down for cleaning out the intake tract when the turbo explodes I can give you if needed :D
Yeah, I'll be buttoning It all up fully next week (unfortunately won't get all the parts in by this weekend for rebuilding the stock shifter parts and finalizing the serpentine belt setup) and then TOWING it to the muffler shop, with specific instructions to push the car in for exhaust and alignment work; I might even unhook the injection pump so they can't start it.. After that, another tow to my apartment complex to begin initial break-in procedures. The only times it will be running will be to get it on the trainer/dolly and if they need to get it onto an above-ground alignment rack, and that's only if it's needed; if all those times I can find ways to get in on trailers, tow dollies, and alignment racks without turning the engine on, then okay. Hopefully I'll have a couple hundred miles on it before departing for H2OI late this month.
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Okay, so I won't be making H2O this year with it, since the Jetta needing tires and a tie rod took up all the exhaust money, but at least I did get some great progress these past couple of weekends. I got the radiator fan hooked up to the old plug wires by adding new ends to them. The control relays fro the AWIC fan and pump were wired up, with the parts coming on with the key. The coolant system got a 50/50 blend of coolant and distilled water, and the AWIC system was filled and extensively bled with distilled water and a bottle of Water Wetter. Next weekend, I was able to rig the old speedometer cable securing ferrule to the new cable by cutting groves in the sides and compressing it with a gear clamp. I also got the shifter rods mounted up. I had to bend the lateral h-pattern adjustment lever on the transmission so that the ball end could attach without being at an odd angle, but that was necessary anyway as it states it in the kit's instructions. I also had to lengthen the lateral relay arm so that the lateral rod could reach it. After mounting the relay lever and other rods (made easier by removing the ball ends, relocating the diff-mounted relay pivot, and cutting clearance in the rear trans mount), the shifter works . . ish. It still needs some bushings for the main rod so that the side-to-side play isn't so vague, and the same play motion needs adjustment so that 1st gear isn't in the middle of reverse lockout half the time. I might also need to shorten the modified lateral relay arm a bit, as well as bend the final lateral arm, as it is hitting the main selector rod when I go for 5th. But at the very least it can run, drive, and stop. Hopefully the next update is about exhausts.
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Here's a vid of the shifter 'working'.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7IPiFDxV0w&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7IPiFDxV0w&feature=youtu.be)
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So after you cool the air you run thru the front of the engine with a metal tube only to heat the air up again ?
This is called heatsoak..
Stephanautohuas was doing the same on the 2.0 t ( 240 hp ) install on the vanagons kits.
We converted all to silicone assys and reduced the temps down 34.
Did you relocate the battery in the trunk ?
GB
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No, the battery is where it always has been, the tray. I don't have the money for a full silicone setup right now. Heat wrap will have to do until I have some more disposable income. I still haven't been able to buy the air box you linked me to. 4 tires and a tie rod for Mr. Mk3 means no hoses, air box, or exhaust for Mr. Rabbit. Such is life.
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I take off for a bit and you go and get all fancy on me!
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Remember when we were talking about engine part ideas two and a half years ago on page 1? Well, she finally left her dungeon for the first time in 3 and a half years!
I went up to the barn to finalize some things and get her ready for towing on Sunday. Saturday involved finishing all except 1 wire for the auxiliary relays. I found a good relay signal of of the fuse panel inside, incidentally off of a relay slot! Now all I need is to wire the fuse supply wire for the AWIC fan and we're in business. After that it was getting the serpentine belt system running. After 45 minutes digging through the O'reilly's supply of serpentine belts looking for the right size, I found a belt that would juuuust work. Put on the tensioner pulley again,cranked baaaaack the tensioner arm, and installed the belt. Did a 15 second idle test (the oil light goes out right as it fires up!) and found the pulley is wobbling a hair; might just be the pulley itself, but the tensioner arm doesn't bounce and the belt stays straight as an arrow on the other pulleys so I'll run it for now. I ran some tubing and an adapter for the wastegate control; gonna run it on stock boost for break-in right now. Finally I hooked up the rear trans mount with some new hardware so now the engine is completely secured.
Sunday was doing the final bits: getting the alternator wiring hooked up, making a fuel filter bracket, getting her back on the ground, and installing the hood. It all went like a breeze, with the holed flat iron doing more duty as a filter bracket, the alt light plug and original positive cables in a ring terminal going on the alternator (the alt light now ALSO goes out right when it fires up!), one vehicle jack, and a friend's hands for the hood. I then went off to rent a truck and full-car trailer; I won't drive it until the exhaust is on, it's at my apartment, and it's legal and has a better intake cover than a doubled-up piece of house filter. About an hour later I came back with said truck/trailer, did a 14 point turn to turn the truck/trailer around, and loaded it up, finding out in the process that what I thought was reverse during the shifter adjustment was actually first and I can only select reverse by manually selecting it on the transmission. Oops. But that was the only hiccup in the towing journey, and I took it to the exhaust shop for downpipe modding, a 2.5 inch straight pipe, an alignment and a state inspection sticker which I know will be rejected anyway but I need it to at least get her on the road for a bit. I should hear from them tomorrow, and I will pay the price but not count the cost.
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Now what will I name her . . .
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Well after today I'm exhausted . .. and so is my Rabbit! The exhaust shop is done with it. They had to do quite some modification to the downpipe, but it doesn't hit the steering rack nor does the straight pipe section going over the rear axle! I also got them to give me an alignment, as well as a Virginia State inspection sticker that, wait, PASSED? Wow; after 3 and a half years, she's still looking good. Now all I need to do is get her some new registration tags, and she's legal and coming home!
(https://z-n.ak.fbcdn.net/sphotos-g.ak/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10473767_300640330124479_4594097381577917531_n.jpg?oh=ae92593dbfc35079ad6128812d7f9e7a&oe=54AABCFE&__gda__=1421673876_5804d7c4f91ded71f89d8718fea7680f)
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That exhaust looks awesome!
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Aww, they're holding hands in that last pic...
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how does she run???
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My question is does it sound like a buzz saw? My hybrid turbo definitely had some whine to it.
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Congrats Mr. That's the way to stick to it.
Let us know how it scoots.
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how does it run andy?
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so far, I'll have to let you know, but she has healthy idle that's for sure. I admittedly haven't heard much out of the turbo since I've only let it idle about 3-4 times for no more than 40 seconds a time. I heard it a bit on throttle blip but nothing else. I'll remove the turbo intake 'screen' and observe how fast it spins at idle; I kind of have a feeling it isn't spinning at idle at all. I'm going to order a filter assembly and wait for it to arrive before breaking it in at all. I don't trust the safety screen I made beyond those few idle times. I still need to wire the gauges and final relay anyway.
Warning: This next update really doesn't deal with the engine at all, more doing things with interior parts I saved up.
Got the rabbit hauled home this Saturday! I decided to mark the occasion my installing some of the trunk carpeting that I had hidden under my bed for the better part of a year and a half. The bottom and rear pieces fit okay, and are sure better than nothing at all, but I'll need to remove the speaker trays to fit the side covers. I'll also glue down the upholstery I got cut for the trays as well. As far as mechanical stuff to do, it's what I mentioned above left to do, as well as evacuate some of the old oil washing up in the coolant reservoir. Don't worry, it's not the new motor doing this; the old motor leaked oil into the coolant due to the cracked head bolt hole near the galley, and try as I might to clean it all out of the radiator and heater core it just didn't get it all. No worry, that's what mityvacs are for, right?
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10525773_302507443271101_6248859365783217163_n.jpg?oh=5819e8a5bf82228040f693ef9cbbb603&oe=54B41578&__gda__=1420582336_e6232784aef8b1e6411eaf62b74b535a)
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ur alot more patient than me, i'd already need a new set of tires if i were you haha
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Congrats Andy. One day I may just be Crazy enough to swap out my old tired 1.6
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did you drive it yet?
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Drove it for the first time today in years! I got the rest of the interior in, and got the boost and EGT gauges hooked up (need to switch/check the wires because it isn't reading) as well as the signal wire for the oil temp sensor routed. I threw fuses in the accessory relay circuits and started her to break the cam into the lifters; went good, so I checked the oil level and condition and then took her out for a short run around the block for a couple miles. She sounds GREAT! The turbo comes in halfway up the rev range and sounds like a hellacious tractor on steroids when up-shifting, winding down and whirring all the way. Smoked a bit at half throttle pulling out, so I will need to fiddle a bit with the screws. The best part about it was that it didn't overheat at all, the needle going steadily to mid range and staying there all the time. The worst part wasn't even the engine; it was the shifter! It has no idea where it is at all. 1st is far into reverse, 3 is where 1 should be, and and 2 is in 4's place. Where reverse is, I don't know. I need to change the oil, and rebuild the entirety of the old shifter system, but after that it's just minor tuning and watching for leaks (slight one at the oil pan and maybe small exhaust leak at the extension flange). So glad this thing is this close to back at last.
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Sounds like you just need to rotate the selector lever a little on the shift rod. Just a heads up, I did a little hair-pulling when setting up the shifter on my '79 until I realized that the bolt in the selector lever clamp was facing the wrong direction and was interfering with reaching reverse.
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Sounds like you just need to rotate the selector lever a little on the shift rod. Just a heads up, I did a little hair-pulling when setting up the shifter on my '79 until I realized that the bolt in the selector lever clamp was facing the wrong direction and was interfering with reaching reverse.
No, my rod bushings are worn out; you can move the main rod around in it's collar, it' so bad. Also the bushings I did put in for the relay lever on the diff suck; it's so hard to get good bushings nowadays! Also my 02A's lateral selector lever has a bushing that rides on the up-down part of the main selector arm, and it's loose also. All else fails, I have a cable box and cables to put in; I just don't want to punch a hole in the firewall if I can help it.
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Oh, I was thinking that you were using the 020. This build has been going on so freaking long :P that I forgot you had swapped trans and customized linkage. Nevermind...
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Trust me, I can not blame you for forgetting anything; the thread ALONE has gone on for over 2 and 3/4 years. There are things In my original build list that didn't even make it on, and things that weren't listed that did! I'm just going through the final adjusty bits, mesmerized I have made ti this close to being done. The crappiest initial income, money management, build directions, parts procurement, and plain bad luck have combined to form what sometimes feels like the most slapdash, idiotic first build ever. And I still need to get wider wheels and fit the suspension, drive line aside!
Still don't know what to name it.
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. . .
Still don't know what to name it.
Everest?
Mine took three years but every time I start it, I feel like a winner
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Chucky...like off sons of anarchy :D
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I've had several projects that took that long or longer. Congrats on getting it going.
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The Rabbit is completely ready; everything after is more upgrades.. I installed a teflon shift rod bushing and re-bent the lateral selector lever; now the trans actually has a decent shift pattern. I installed the air filter and plumbed in the PCV tube, now it isn't just a double-folded house filter screen and a road tube. I installed a new coolant bottle; now I can actually tell how much coolant I have. I also put Mighty Car Mods stickers on it; because it is maaaaad.
And then I drove it.
And I feel complete.
Her name is Harley.
(https://driiive.com/assets/cars/bbb239aaf808a1de5626792324de3554b853155e/photos/9582391415584509-096b1c34ab.jpg)
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I got out for a very good, longish 40 minute drive that took me about 17 miles. Here are some of the findings from those productive moments:
-Boost is more responsive when fully-warmed, which is kind of a no-brainer considering I am breaking it in on straight 30 weight conventional oil. However, the intake is a bit a bit louder when hot also, which makes me consider that I have a slight leak in my piping. I'll tighten the clamps more and observe again. The AWIC core is staying nice and cool, with the only intake component getting warm being the intake when hot. I will still upgrade the boost pipes to as much silicone as I can fit, though, to further reduce chance of intake heat soak.
-I did a small 3 mile stint at highway speeds, which proves to me I need to get off these smaller wheels and thinner, older tires. There is a high-speed mild vibration that is probably caused by front imbalance coupled with the fact that I didn't shuffle the car as much as I should have while in storage; the thinner aspect ratio doesn't do it any help at speed also. The left rear tire went flat overnight yesterday as well, and removing the tire from the rim revealed some noticeable build-up of rust on the outer rim lips. The balance is no problem when in town, but if I plan on taking this thing to another city, which I very much do, I need some new wheels, preferably with more diameter and width, something that will decrease the sidewall a bit for more responsiveness. 14x7/15x8 steel wheels would do nicely, with the last being a tad extreme but doable with the GTI flares I have in storage. No stretching tires, but I shouldn't have to say that on this forum.
- I got the EGT gauge wired correctly (wires were swapped) and even at only 0.5-ish bar of boost it's hitting 900-1000 degrees at the bit of full throttle I gave to check peak temps. This just reinforces my need to reduce the main fuel screw. My parts for constructing a boost regulator are in the mail (more on that when they arrive); I might add a few pounds after the first oil change to balance out the loss of fuel and add a cooling affect to keep EGTs lower during break-in.
-Speaking of oil, I am seeing some seepage around the oil pan, especially near the back. I'll get back there and see if it's just the pan and pop it off to reseal at first oil change. There's also some seepage around the oil cap, but it's an old one so I'll just replace it.
-Oil's still coming out of the old coolant components, but it's tapered off so I'll probably be good soon. I'll worry if it keeps happening a few weeks down the road.
-Coolant temperatures are holding nice at midway up the gauge, with a bit of creep one tick above that settles back down. Warm-up is quick, faster than my daily Jetta TDI, and doesn't spike before the thermostat opens or under load. This is with an ambient temperature in the 50's F, so when it gets warmer I'll be keeping my eye on it to see if I should consider a lower-temp thermostat.
-Brakes are nice and responsive initially, but lock in front under harder pedal effort. Again, I attribute this to the skinny economy tires. The stock suspension makes it pretty numb on turn-in, with a bit of dive and rear pick-up under anything over light brake pedal effort. This is all fine just driving around, but I've got some H&R springs waiting for her in storage, as well as a cabriolet rear sway bar and a 16-valve Scirocco K-brace which will need to be bent to clear the 02A diff housing. They are gonna have to wait, though, as Bilsteins and Super Pro bushings are expensive. I will be building up a brake parts list that includes Mk3 200mm Rear drum assemblies, sport pads in front to compliment the vented rotors and better wheels/tires, and all-new brake hoses.
That's really it; I can hear everything the drivetrain does with the window down, and the straight pipe is great for hearing when boost comes on and pretty behaved at lower RPM cruising. The motor starts easy, and the injection events are even with no nailing, missing, or idle hunting. The only thing I need to fix now besides the oil pan gasket and fuel screw adjustment is one of the speakers crackling. I really am surprised at how little I will need to do to dial her in before any other upgrades. It makes me feel like I did a good job building her. That doesn't mean I'll be slack in my duties, though; it's a long while before she'll be properly broken in, and anything can happen out there.
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So cool to see another MCM fan on this forum :D
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So cool to see another MCM fan on this forum :D
Yes, those guys are great to watch!
So as far as the car goes, it's been about 80 miles so far. Changed the oil at about 50, and glad to report no particles in the oil. Still running it on 30 conventional;any recommendations as to when I should switch to multi-weight, or synth blend even? Intake is still a bit loud, so I guess that's just how it is. I'm also hitting around 0.75 bar when warmed up now. I should be able to control it better now that my boost control components have arrived in the mail. I will just need to get some tubing and barbed fittings. Finally got my oil temp gauge wired and I think it's junk; it read nothing initially, now 90 Celsius just sitting there, and pegs the gauge when after even a light drive. I'm checking the wiring, and if it's good I'm replacing the sender and gauge.
I drove it on a local twisty road so I could get some multiple hard throttle sessions in, and I realized the temperature climbs near the red and took a bit to come down after the spirited session ended. My engine bay layout right now isn't conducive to a larger radiator, so I need to see about either re-arranging some of the components or getting a lower temperature thermostat, although I'm leaning towards the latter right now. It will at least give me time to changed the coolant out along with the old oil contamination.
Finally, I am coming to terms with some design flaws both from me and the car itself. The first is my intake layout; it's very cramped. The routing of the core and charge pipes forced me to mount my air filter in back, close to the exhaust and firewall, so that can't be good for intake temps either. If I'm going to solve the space issue, then I'll have to redesign and relocate the entire charge system, which means a different cooler core with same-side pipe connections. This will solve the issues of the air filter, as I can then use the TD airbox I have; the charge pipe length, since it would be mounted in the driver side of the bay over the transmission; the cooler pump location, as the mounting for the pump right now isn't in the absolute bottom of the system right now; even the cooling concern, as it would be an excuse to delete the remote coolant reservoir and get a higher-flowing aluminum radiator with a side-fill tank, mounting the cooler core in some of the area where the stock reservoir sits.
Second concern is with the stock chassis. It turns out that bending the K bar I have wont' work for clearing the 02A diff housing, so I'll have to get a Euro Sport lower tie bar instead, which I have done research on and have photographic evidence of it clearing the larger transmission's case. I also learned during this research that the A1 chassis is prone to cracking it's A-arm frame horns at their spot welds to the body as the vehicle ages, so such a lower suspension upgrade along with an upper tie bar is a NECESSITY now, especially since my drivetrain is heavier than stock and my plans for lowering it along with stiffer bushings puts the towers and horns under greater stress. This is yet another reason for modifying the intake tract, as the current hoses get in the way of commonly available upper strut bars; my mounting of the fuel filter onto the top of the passenger strut tower does me no help either. It might also be a good Idea to take the car and get additional welding done to the frame to reinforce the horns further.
The final problem is, as can be expected, time and money. All these reconstructions and reinforcements come with a price tag not very easily met going into the holidays. Driving around on a modified engine and stock suspension is putting greater stress on the chassis on these rough Virginia back roads. Couple that with the wheel/tire and suspension/brake parts still needing to be purchased, that leaves a tall order that I cannot fill right now. That doesn't mean I'm selling it, but it does mean I'm going to have to limit my break-in drives until at least getting the chassis parts. I'll probably even end up tarping it for the season (with a bi-monthly drive to keep it from getting lot rot) and come back to it in March with the money and parts to finish it up right. I've put too much time and money into this thing to let it all go up because I decided to rush it.
ADD version: Ideas on when to change to other oil, cooling ideas, anyone got used Euro Sport tie bars, gonna park her for the winter. That's it right now. At least my friends are impressed by it, and my friend Travis who welded my rear mount and is an experienced car modifier (read: he breaks cars :P ) said that it he "didn't think it would be this fast", and it's only at 0.75 bar! Wait until March!
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected.
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected.
yeah i think the rad lucas used is a good option, that or try increasing boost, maybe at 1 bar you will run a little cooler.
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected.
Sounds like a good idea; you still got the link to where you bought it from? If it's as short as you say, then it will make tweaking the cooler arrangement much easier. I'm going to save the gauge diag for this weekend.
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The guy that sold mine isn't selling them anymore, but this looks just like mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-VW-GOLF-GTI-JETTA-MK2-Corrado-Scirocco-Coupe-1-8V-86-95-/251327379051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AJetta&hash=item3a8447766b&vxp=mtr
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i like the non over flow rad, but they take up more space by the radiator
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VALEO-ENGINE-RADIATOR-FOR-VW-GOLF-SCIROCCO-171-121-253-F-/261643656911?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ceb2d5ecf&vxp=mtr
and an aluminum version, i think jegs or summit sells a version of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CUSTOM-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RADIATOR-VW-GOLF-MK1-CADDY-SCIROCCO-GTI-SPEC-1-6-1-8-/121159309560?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c35a858f8&vxp=mtr
i think the one lucas showed you is a really score though, for size cooling capacity, and especially price.
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jegs
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=scirocco+radiator
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Gives me hope that one day I'll finish my project.
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Gives me hope that one day I'll finish my project.
Well thanks, but hopefully you won't drive yours only 150 miles and then let it sit after your driver side axle walked it's inner CV bolts off, like I did. She was going like crazy until just before Christmas when it happened. It's too freaking cold to give a damn right now, so I'm going to get her a car cover, throw some old socks full of coffee grinds in the floor boards to keep the moisture out, and wait until March to get back on the horse. I'm really in no mood to wrench on it anyway; work is going dismally, and the axle walking off didn't do any better for my mood. At least my 4 point lower stress bar will be here by then, and hopefully so will some nice Bilsteins followed by a good set of wheels. And a bigger rad, too.
And P.S.: The temp sender for the oil temp gauge is wonky; goes from bottom to pegging the top in 8 seconds. Damn cheap JOM crap. PARTS FOR THE PART GOD.
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What happened to the inner CV bolts? I am about to replace my axles and don't want that to happen.
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You know what, I'm not exactly sure. Either I didn't tighten them enough, or the aftermarket axle is too long and it pressed itself off little by little. I'm going to need to reattach the axle, depress the suspension in that corner, and check for proper axle movement. I don't know where to get a true 16v Scirocco axle, so I'm kind of screwed if that is truly the case and the axle is too long; I might even need to get the shaft shortened somehow if I can't find a real 16v axle if I need one.
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Did you apply loctite?
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i think the stock ones are stretch bolts or they get stretched over time, they kept coming loose on my rabbit until i replaced them
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When I swapped from avx to acn, I reused the old bolts. I don't remember if I loctited them or not. What are the symptoms of them coming loose? I was planning on doing the same thing, i.e. reuse the old bolts on the new axles.
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I just had the drivers side on the MKIV come loose a couple months ago. I searched on other forums and many of the same stories...use Loctite. Torque for them is right at 30ft/lbs IIRC
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When I swapped from avx to acn, I reused the old bolts. I don't remember if I loctited them or not. What are the symptoms of them coming loose? I was planning on doing the same thing, i.e. reuse the old bolts on the new axles.
you hear a bunch of weird noises when moving, and if u get out and pop the hood u can see the axles loose, i usually re use old bolts, that set just happened to be tired. loctite is another good solution.
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Good it gives some audible warning! I had a 69 type 2 bus many years ago while driving it suddenly stopped moving no response from throttle engine still running. Crawled under and found all the axle bolts came loose on one axle. I didn't have any tools with me so just threaded them in by hand and drove home. I tightened them with tools and it happened again! I didn't know about Loctite back then. Maybe being rear engine rear drive I didn't hear any noise before the axle came off?
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Good it gives some audible warning! I had a 69 type 2 bus many years ago while driving it suddenly stopped moving no response from throttle engine still running. Crawled under and found all the axle bolts came loose on one axle. I didn't have any tools with me so just threaded them in by hand and drove home. I tightened them with tools and it happened again! I didn't know about Loctite back then. Maybe being rear engine rear drive I didn't hear any noise before the axle came off?
that could easily be, it wasnt very loud on mine, i actually kept driving on them the one time and bent a bunch of them and had to retap some of the holes in the flange, that was when i got new bolts and the problem went away.
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Welp, some good and more bad news. Got the axle back in and loctited the bolts in for insurance. Took it out for a drive and it did fine, but noticed that the vacuum pump had almost come out! I pushed it back into the hole and loctited it's retainer bolt as well.
Fast forward a week and I tried to install a manual boost controller made with a combination of a pressure regulator and pressure relief valve in line as per here: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111348 (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111348). Wow, did NOT like that! First test drive was just a small turn in on the regulator, but the first time I tried a 2nd gear pull, there was a loud BUMP/POP followed by grey smoke and the engine nearly dying, sounding like it was only running on a couple cylinders and bogging down when I tried to give it any pedal. After about 20-30 seconds it returned to normal idle and acceleration operation and I soft-shoed it home. There is no coolant loss, and nothing is leaking around the head mating are that I can see right now. It's a repeatable fault, as I have demonstrated earlier this afternoon. What's more, I looked under the hood and saw the vacuum pump doing a little twirly jig in it's hole! I'm going to have to pull it back out and see if there's any oil pump shaft, intermediate shaft, and/or vacuum pump damage. As far as the power loss incident, I am actually at a loss of what it definitely might be. I'm obviously thinking it's something to do with the boost controller I made, either causing a few things to happen:
-The LDA is seeing too much signal boost and the pump dumps too much fuel
-The timing is too advanced and a cylinder pre-ignited
That is really all I have right now. I'm going to be removing the controller and go back to just the wastegate for now. I don't like these valves, and will most likely go for a more proven boost control setup down the road rather than this hodgepodge air tool junk. I will also need to check out the vacuum pump situation, as well as get an eye in the turbo compressor as well as around the exhaust area; she wasn't as willing to spool after the first incident. I can only hope my stupidity and impatience hasn't caused major, expensive damage yet.
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Okay, so I figured out the vacuum pump concern; it was sitting wrong in it's hole and the clamp was sitting wrong on the pump base. Easy fix. I also found out I installed the valves on the DIY controller were turned the wrong way; they have a direction they have to set for the pressure relief function to work and I pointed the arrows in the wrong direction. I'll fix that and re-install the controller later. For now, see these videos on how she operates on wastegate pressure. Not too bad if I say so myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTL8jiuSybo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTL8jiuSybo)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLoiolGeTbw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLoiolGeTbw)
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Looks and sounds good! Is that a dash cam?