Building AAZ motor; meet Harley

[libbydiesel]

In my experience, the freeze plug heaters work very well.  I have run them in multiple vehicles for 20+ years and haven't had any issues.  The in-hose style is a distant second.  Due to thermosiphon, the heated coolant will rise up to the head and create a convection current to gradually heat the block, but it is not nearly as efficient as having the element in the block itself.  Placing one in-hose in the heater circuit will help get passenger heat quicker but reduce the positive impact of heating the engine iteself.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

  how most of us do... hell theman just did as one fell out...

There's no room to swing a hammer. What do you have to remove to hammer in a freeze plug when on side of the road?

I did it in the grass, turbo, drain line, engine mount, and all in the way, so I don't know what you have to remove, but I do know what I didn't have to remove. I just had the freeze plug, hammer, and socket and tapped it in. MK2 jetta if that matters to you. It isn't as easy as walking and chewing gum but it is very possible to swing the hammer in there. I am not a small guy either.

Did you do it from above or below?

Sorry...I laid on my back in the grass, below the car and tapped it in. I did not take ANYTHING off...it is a turbo car with the sausage stuffer intake that I just did if you didn't read the thread, but if you did you would have to realize that no human could drop a freeze plug with those items attached from up top let alone hammer it in.

OK I believe you. There's like 8 to 10 inches from freeze plug to fire wall? Not much distance to "swing" a hammer. So you did this as an emergency side of the road repair when your block heater came off and you were able to hammer in a freeze plug? What kind of jack did you have at the time and how high did you raise the car to get under it?

[CRSMP5]

mine was caddy/mk1... more room them mk2.. normal floor jack.. gravel muddy driveway.. piece o fwood fo rjack so it did not sink so fast... i was like 2 miles from home when mine went ... i limped it... but i fit had happened 5 min sooner before construction zone id have been toast... no ware to pull off sitution..

[theman53]

I had a normal floor jack, on grass. 8-10 inches is there but you only need a couple to tap in the freeze plug, you are not driving in a rail road spike. I tapped it with maybe 2" of throw to get it started and it went so easy I kept on tapping it. Mine was not a block heater that failed. Mine was a freeze plug that came out.

I am not small so I have to lift the car until the suspension is slack to even get my head to fit under the oil pan. I jacked it up maybe 19"

[CrazyAndy]

TURBO TIME!

Yesterday, I got my longer set of studs in the mail.  I finally got around to putting them in the cylinder head so that I could do the final mounting of the exhaust manifold.  Got it and the spacer on and torqued down.  Then, finally the time as come for mounting the turbocharger!
Before mounting the turbo, I secured one end of the turbo drain line onto the turbo, with a home-made gasket in between.  I got some lapping compound onto the exhaust manifold and tried to lap the turbo to the manifold.  I did this because on this turbo setup the turbo does not have a gasket between it and the manifold; it's just the way it was designed.  Lapping didn't do much actually, barely even dulled the surface.  I guess it won't need it.  I cleaned the mating surfaces of lapping compound and torqued the turbo down on the manifold all nice and tight.
Now I moved on to re-doing the turbo oil drain line.  Previously I had used all-rubber hose, which would have seeped oil and soaked it up like a sponge.  I replaced that with some mylar-inner-lined tubing from the friendly local auto parts store.  Got that put onto the line ends and tightened down with clamps. 
Tightened the block drain bolt, and the turbo is now officially mounted! 










 The check list is shortened to 4 things:
-Timing tools
-Installing timing belt
-Modifying and installing turbo oil feed line
-Mounting misc. sensors, brackets, hoses, and mounts.
Can't wait until that is done and it's on to oil leak testing!

[theman53]

Do you have a pic of the compressor side to show how much clearance you have?

[Gizmoman]

Very nice work sir. Looks like you'll be up and running soon.

[libbydiesel]

In order to lap a flat surface, it is counterproductive to use lapping compound.  Instead, use a piece of sandpaper on top of a known-to-be flat surface and lube it with something like WD-40.  I have a polished granite sink cutout that I use for large object (cylinder head or all four exhaust port flanges) and smaller milled flat 1" thick pieces of steel for smaller surfaces.

[CrazyAndy]

Do you have a pic of the compressor side to show how much clearance you have?

Ask and ye shall get that pic


Thanks for the tip, Andrew.  I'll just let the turbo develop a good carbon seal like the factory did.  Still, I'll remember that when I have to lap flat stuff nest time; what grit(s) of sandpaper do you use?

[RabbitJockey]

I think your inducer looks smaller than mine

[CrazyAndy]

Well, another H2O has come and gone, and all I have left is a sunburn, a hangover, and a crap-ton of photos!
https://driiive.com/CrazyAndy/1972-Volkswagen-Type-2-Transporter/#!/timeline/591

In other engine news, I came home to a nice box of parts! Got the thermostat and other coolant temp sensor on, also test fit coolant transfer hose, and found it actually fit on an AAZ without modification! I did have to push it a little don on the head outlet, but there's more than enough for a clamp to grab I think. If I find any problems with it sitting well when I clamp them down, I''ll just lengthen it anyway.  Unfortunately the hose that goes to the transfer pipe was the wrong type, so no pipe mounting today.





As far as today, I got the passenger side engine mount insert pressed into the bracket at work today, and layed down a thick layer of paint on the assembly at home. trans is now good to go!




I'm talking to somebody right now to get a trubo oil feed line fabricated, and that's the only oil system part I need for pressure testing.

[bbob203]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-OIL-FEED-VW-GOLF-TDI-MK4-BRAIDED-TURBO-OIL-FEED-HOSE-/151024645161?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item2329c53429&vxp=mtr took 2 days to get to my place.

[CrazyAndy]

Damn Bbob, isn't this like the third thing you've found for me?  I should start paying you a finder's fee!   Thanks man.

[CrazyAndy]

FINALLY got my braided turbo oil feed lien in the mail!  Got that thing on the motor right quick, and it went on without incident.  The OEM-style mounting banjo bolt and crush washers can even be used, and the angled fitting on the turbo end even has an o-ring fitting; good quality!  Couple that with the fact that the OEM line clamp can hold it, and I'm a happy purchaser.  Also put in the oil drain plug in anticipation for the upcoming oil test next week.  After that, it's tightening the crank cog bolt, timing the pump and cam gears while installing the belt, and installing the flywheel.  I'll have to take the engine off the stand for those steps which means moving the engine to it's new resting place, near the car itself!

[bbob203]

Looking good! Glad i could help! The lines are great as much as i don't like buying chinese you can't beat it.