Building AAZ motor; meet Harley - page 25 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#360 by libbydiesel on 02 Nov, 2014 12:38
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Sounds like you just need to rotate the selector lever a little on the shift rod. Just a heads up, I did a little hair-pulling when setting up the shifter on my '79 until I realized that the bolt in the selector lever clamp was facing the wrong direction and was interfering with reaching reverse.
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#361 by CrazyAndy on 02 Nov, 2014 13:22
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Sounds like you just need to rotate the selector lever a little on the shift rod. Just a heads up, I did a little hair-pulling when setting up the shifter on my '79 until I realized that the bolt in the selector lever clamp was facing the wrong direction and was interfering with reaching reverse.
No, my rod bushings are worn out; you can move the main rod around in it's collar, it' so bad. Also the bushings I did put in for the relay lever on the diff suck; it's so hard to get good bushings nowadays! Also my 02A's lateral selector lever has a bushing that rides on the up-down part of the main selector arm, and it's loose also. All else fails, I have a cable box and cables to put in; I just don't want to punch a hole in the firewall if I can help it. -
#362 by libbydiesel on 02 Nov, 2014 17:10
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Oh, I was thinking that you were using the 020. This build has been going on so freaking long
that I forgot you had swapped trans and customized linkage. Nevermind...
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#363 by CrazyAndy on 03 Nov, 2014 19:08
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Trust me, I can not blame you for forgetting anything; the thread ALONE has gone on for over 2 and 3/4 years. There are things In my original build list that didn't even make it on, and things that weren't listed that did! I'm just going through the final adjusty bits, mesmerized I have made ti this close to being done. The crappiest initial income, money management, build directions, parts procurement, and plain bad luck have combined to form what sometimes feels like the most slapdash, idiotic first build ever. And I still need to get wider wheels and fit the suspension, drive line aside!
Still don't know what to name it. -
#364 by Gizmoman on 04 Nov, 2014 04:57
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. . .
Still don't know what to name it.
Everest?
Mine took three years but every time I start it, I feel like a winner -
#365 by theman53 on 04 Nov, 2014 06:51
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Chucky...like off sons of anarchy
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#366 by libbydiesel on 04 Nov, 2014 07:21
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I've had several projects that took that long or longer. Congrats on getting it going.
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#367 by CrazyAndy on 09 Nov, 2014 18:00
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The Rabbit is completely ready; everything after is more upgrades.. I installed a teflon shift rod bushing and re-bent the lateral selector lever; now the trans actually has a decent shift pattern. I installed the air filter and plumbed in the PCV tube, now it isn't just a double-folded house filter screen and a road tube. I installed a new coolant bottle; now I can actually tell how much coolant I have. I also put Mighty Car Mods stickers on it; because it is maaaaad.
And then I drove it.
And I feel complete.
Her name is Harley.
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#368 by CrazyAndy on 12 Nov, 2014 18:57
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I got out for a very good, longish 40 minute drive that took me about 17 miles. Here are some of the findings from those productive moments:
-Boost is more responsive when fully-warmed, which is kind of a no-brainer considering I am breaking it in on straight 30 weight conventional oil. However, the intake is a bit a bit louder when hot also, which makes me consider that I have a slight leak in my piping. I'll tighten the clamps more and observe again. The AWIC core is staying nice and cool, with the only intake component getting warm being the intake when hot. I will still upgrade the boost pipes to as much silicone as I can fit, though, to further reduce chance of intake heat soak.
-I did a small 3 mile stint at highway speeds, which proves to me I need to get off these smaller wheels and thinner, older tires. There is a high-speed mild vibration that is probably caused by front imbalance coupled with the fact that I didn't shuffle the car as much as I should have while in storage; the thinner aspect ratio doesn't do it any help at speed also. The left rear tire went flat overnight yesterday as well, and removing the tire from the rim revealed some noticeable build-up of rust on the outer rim lips. The balance is no problem when in town, but if I plan on taking this thing to another city, which I very much do, I need some new wheels, preferably with more diameter and width, something that will decrease the sidewall a bit for more responsiveness. 14x7/15x8 steel wheels would do nicely, with the last being a tad extreme but doable with the GTI flares I have in storage. No stretching tires, but I shouldn't have to say that on this forum.
- I got the EGT gauge wired correctly (wires were swapped) and even at only 0.5-ish bar of boost it's hitting 900-1000 degrees at the bit of full throttle I gave to check peak temps. This just reinforces my need to reduce the main fuel screw. My parts for constructing a boost regulator are in the mail (more on that when they arrive); I might add a few pounds after the first oil change to balance out the loss of fuel and add a cooling affect to keep EGTs lower during break-in.
-Speaking of oil, I am seeing some seepage around the oil pan, especially near the back. I'll get back there and see if it's just the pan and pop it off to reseal at first oil change. There's also some seepage around the oil cap, but it's an old one so I'll just replace it.
-Oil's still coming out of the old coolant components, but it's tapered off so I'll probably be good soon. I'll worry if it keeps happening a few weeks down the road.
-Coolant temperatures are holding nice at midway up the gauge, with a bit of creep one tick above that settles back down. Warm-up is quick, faster than my daily Jetta TDI, and doesn't spike before the thermostat opens or under load. This is with an ambient temperature in the 50's F, so when it gets warmer I'll be keeping my eye on it to see if I should consider a lower-temp thermostat.
-Brakes are nice and responsive initially, but lock in front under harder pedal effort. Again, I attribute this to the skinny economy tires. The stock suspension makes it pretty numb on turn-in, with a bit of dive and rear pick-up under anything over light brake pedal effort. This is all fine just driving around, but I've got some H&R springs waiting for her in storage, as well as a cabriolet rear sway bar and a 16-valve Scirocco K-brace which will need to be bent to clear the 02A diff housing. They are gonna have to wait, though, as Bilsteins and Super Pro bushings are expensive. I will be building up a brake parts list that includes Mk3 200mm Rear drum assemblies, sport pads in front to compliment the vented rotors and better wheels/tires, and all-new brake hoses.
That's really it; I can hear everything the drivetrain does with the window down, and the straight pipe is great for hearing when boost comes on and pretty behaved at lower RPM cruising. The motor starts easy, and the injection events are even with no nailing, missing, or idle hunting. The only thing I need to fix now besides the oil pan gasket and fuel screw adjustment is one of the speakers crackling. I really am surprised at how little I will need to do to dial her in before any other upgrades. It makes me feel like I did a good job building her. That doesn't mean I'll be slack in my duties, though; it's a long while before she'll be properly broken in, and anything can happen out there. -
#369 by Blocksmith on 15 Nov, 2014 16:10
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So cool to see another MCM fan on this forum
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#370 by CrazyAndy on 30 Nov, 2014 20:42
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So cool to see another MCM fan on this forum
Yes, those guys are great to watch!
So as far as the car goes, it's been about 80 miles so far. Changed the oil at about 50, and glad to report no particles in the oil. Still running it on 30 conventional;any recommendations as to when I should switch to multi-weight, or synth blend even? Intake is still a bit loud, so I guess that's just how it is. I'm also hitting around 0.75 bar when warmed up now. I should be able to control it better now that my boost control components have arrived in the mail. I will just need to get some tubing and barbed fittings. Finally got my oil temp gauge wired and I think it's junk; it read nothing initially, now 90 Celsius just sitting there, and pegs the gauge when after even a light drive. I'm checking the wiring, and if it's good I'm replacing the sender and gauge.
I drove it on a local twisty road so I could get some multiple hard throttle sessions in, and I realized the temperature climbs near the red and took a bit to come down after the spirited session ended. My engine bay layout right now isn't conducive to a larger radiator, so I need to see about either re-arranging some of the components or getting a lower temperature thermostat, although I'm leaning towards the latter right now. It will at least give me time to changed the coolant out along with the old oil contamination.
Finally, I am coming to terms with some design flaws both from me and the car itself. The first is my intake layout; it's very cramped. The routing of the core and charge pipes forced me to mount my air filter in back, close to the exhaust and firewall, so that can't be good for intake temps either. If I'm going to solve the space issue, then I'll have to redesign and relocate the entire charge system, which means a different cooler core with same-side pipe connections. This will solve the issues of the air filter, as I can then use the TD airbox I have; the charge pipe length, since it would be mounted in the driver side of the bay over the transmission; the cooler pump location, as the mounting for the pump right now isn't in the absolute bottom of the system right now; even the cooling concern, as it would be an excuse to delete the remote coolant reservoir and get a higher-flowing aluminum radiator with a side-fill tank, mounting the cooler core in some of the area where the stock reservoir sits.
Second concern is with the stock chassis. It turns out that bending the K bar I have wont' work for clearing the 02A diff housing, so I'll have to get a Euro Sport lower tie bar instead, which I have done research on and have photographic evidence of it clearing the larger transmission's case. I also learned during this research that the A1 chassis is prone to cracking it's A-arm frame horns at their spot welds to the body as the vehicle ages, so such a lower suspension upgrade along with an upper tie bar is a NECESSITY now, especially since my drivetrain is heavier than stock and my plans for lowering it along with stiffer bushings puts the towers and horns under greater stress. This is yet another reason for modifying the intake tract, as the current hoses get in the way of commonly available upper strut bars; my mounting of the fuel filter onto the top of the passenger strut tower does me no help either. It might also be a good Idea to take the car and get additional welding done to the frame to reinforce the horns further.
The final problem is, as can be expected, time and money. All these reconstructions and reinforcements come with a price tag not very easily met going into the holidays. Driving around on a modified engine and stock suspension is putting greater stress on the chassis on these rough Virginia back roads. Couple that with the wheel/tire and suspension/brake parts still needing to be purchased, that leaves a tall order that I cannot fill right now. That doesn't mean I'm selling it, but it does mean I'm going to have to limit my break-in drives until at least getting the chassis parts. I'll probably even end up tarping it for the season (with a bi-monthly drive to keep it from getting lot rot) and come back to it in March with the money and parts to finish it up right. I've put too much time and money into this thing to let it all go up because I decided to rush it.
ADD version: Ideas on when to change to other oil, cooling ideas, anyone got used Euro Sport tie bars, gonna park her for the winter. That's it right now. At least my friends are impressed by it, and my friend Travis who welded my rear mount and is an experienced car modifier (read: he breaks cars ) said that it he "didn't think it would be this fast", and it's only at 0.75 bar! Wait until March!
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#371 by theman53 on 30 Nov, 2014 20:57
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected. -
#372 by RabbitJockey on 01 Dec, 2014 07:36
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected.
yeah i think the rad lucas used is a good option, that or try increasing boost, maybe at 1 bar you will run a little cooler. -
#373 by CrazyAndy on 01 Dec, 2014 18:31
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The rad I bought from ebay is smaller than the MKI rad I have for spare. It is a multicore and almost doubles the coolant capacity over the a/c rad on the mk2. If you eliminate the coolant bottle you may have issues as it is the highest spot in the entire system, maybe not, but it would be easier to get the rad I bought and go with it. It was approx. 140. I have a little more fire than your pump and never see over 180 unless I am not moving so I know it cools.
The oil temp on my car does not move for 10 minutes if it is less than 80f outside. It will run slightly less than coolant once it is warmed up, so it may be ok or just a wiring issue as you have suspected.
Sounds like a good idea; you still got the link to where you bought it from? If it's as short as you say, then it will make tweaking the cooler arrangement much easier. I'm going to save the gauge diag for this weekend. -
#374 by theman53 on 01 Dec, 2014 19:09
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The guy that sold mine isn't selling them anymore, but this looks just like mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-VW-GOLF-GTI-JETTA-MK2-Corrado-Scirocco-Coupe-1-8V-86-95-/251327379051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AJetta&hash=item3a8447766b&vxp=mtr