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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RadoTD on October 08, 2010, 08:13:33 pm
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Partly due to some circumstances involving a lack of keys and cell reception and a need to get home, I've pulled my car off the road for a bit. My back up vehicle is insured for 3 months, so it doesn't need to run until the new year. I'll be moving part way through which will help keep things interesting, but hopefully everything runs fairly smoothly.
The point of this build is somewhat for me to organize everything I need to do (organization is certainly not one of my strengths) and keep me on track. So, bug me if I'm not updating for a while.
The car as it sits is a mostly stock AAZ superglued into a '90 Corrado. 2.5" straight exhaust, gov mod, fuel turned up and boost/egt gauges is basically all it stands away from 80 horses. I've spent the last year just doing maintenance stuff, rewiring nearly the whole car and getting it nicely drivable. The interior and some electronics are still lacking, but for the most part it's a solid car now.
My goals have bounced around a little, but in reality, I need something reliable. I'm currently saving up for school, so I can't be introducing pistons to the walls of a block too often. I'll still be running compounds; K14 and K24 together for 25-30psi and I'm hoping 160whp, maybe 170. The car is around 2500lbs, so that'll make a nice peppy daily driver and hopefully it'll keep itself bolted together at that power level.
So, here, as it stands is the list of things to do. I'll try to keep this updated and add things as I think of them.
Performance Related:
Install ARP head studs (should have them in a few days)
Drill, get hardware for and install main bearing girdle
Port head
Set up compound turbos
Order intercooler plumbing
Install intercooler
Install oil temp/pressure gauges
Shorten my shifter throw
Make custom boost pin
Maintenance Related:
Replace ignition and the big chunk of aluminum that holds my steering column haha
Rebuild motor (not 100% sure I will do a full rebuild, I'll see how it looks inside. 240k and it runs amazingly)
Cut into frame and replace the nuts my subframe bolts thread into :-\
Clean up engine bay wiring
Control arm/subframe/sway bar bushings
Roll rear quarters
Re-do headliner
Wheel bearings maybe? There's some noise that's too much up front there
Optional:
Thinking of making a skid plate, possibly out of fiberglass to hopefully make my engine quieter?
Finally get around to making a surround for my gauge cluster
Get more interior crap/put more of the interior I have in
Put a stereo in? Naaa.... iPod > radio
Swap from ABS to non-ABS
That list certainly looks long enough to keep me busy for a while! I'm hoping to pull the motor this weekend and get started.
Here's what it basically looks like right now, except a bit lower and the rear wheels spaced out further:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4785095506_48b2dcab4a_z.jpg)
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RadoTD's Corrado is going to be the sickest diesel Corrado to ever cruise the streets! Can't wait to get my hands greasy with ya budd! :D
my BEST advice is to DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE
since you've got a second vehicle never for any reason skip anything or short out on something for the sake of a couple days sooner on the road. Do it all at once and do it all nice. that way you don't have to do it twice.
Paying double to do it properly once is cheaper than having to do it twice for half the cost! The math says its the same but trust me it's not :P
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RadoTD's Corrado is going to be the sickest diesel Corrado to ever cruise the streets! Can't wait to get my hands greasy with ya budd! :D
my BEST advice is to DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE
since you've got a second vehicle never for any reason skip anything or short out on something for the sake of a couple days sooner on the road. Do it all at once and do it all nice. that way you don't have to do it twice.
Paying double to do it properly once is cheaper than having to do it twice for half the cost! The math says its the same but trust me it's not :P
Haha thanks Ed :) I'll definitely need your help more than a few times!
Is there any good reason for me to not do a full rebuild on the engine? 240k and it's never been pulled apart.
And I actually don't have a hoist to use for the weekend, so I'll have to find other things to keep me busy. That shouldn't be hard though. I've got a potentially sweet idea for my gauge cluster! Can't actually build it until I'm back at work with all the sheet metal tools, but I'll be putting some drawings together for sure!
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My guess is that you might wanna rebuild it if you are about to ask a lot more of it. You may end up building this all the way up with go fast goodies, blow the engine and then have to disassemble it all and start the rebuild shortly from now...just a thought
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I started a similar build and am almost driving it daily now. I would rebuild the engine completely. When it is all said and done pistons and bore isn't much more money and it is out of the car already. Maybe if it had 140,000 instead of 240,000 but I think its best times on that bore are behind it :D Just like punk81 said if it were stock let it ride, more than that probably rebuild. My .02...
Good call on the ABS. I hate ABS. If you saw the driving I do you would understand I think.
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You guys are probably right, full rebuild it is. I'll stop being lazy!
I've never liked ABS... more to go wrong. I'm missing the wheel sensors anyway, so having the over complicated pump is benefiting me in no way
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I agree, ABS are garbage. If you even half know what you are doing, you can stop much faster without.
My only advise( ok not only, but I am using my phone so I am trying to keep this brief) would be to test run the motor on a stand, so when it has issues you can did it before the motor is in the cramped engine bay.
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My only advise( ok not only, but I am using my phone so I am trying to keep this brief) would be to test run the motor on a stand, so when it has issues you can did it before the motor is in the cramped engine bay.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! One semi related question, would it be fine to rebuild the engine, test run it up to temp and have it sit for a few weeks afterwards? Obviously I'd prime it again, but is there any harm in leaving it sitting?
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No harm in leaving it sit for a little while. I had to do mine that way as it was at the parents farm and I was 20 minutes away. I couldn't get over every night and sometimes just on the weekends. I don't think it would hurt to sit for longer periods, but I would think 9 months to a year you would want to look at the fluids and reprime for sure.
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Most of my time yesterday was spent shoveling gravel so I could have a free spot to leave the car parked. My back and arms are pretty sore right now!
I did finish a manual boost controller that's actually for Ed. Set it for 30psi :)
Reupholstered the headliner, picked up some bolts for the bearing girdle and some raw stock as well.
I got a quote for everything I need for the rebuild... came to just over $600. He didn't write down what manufacturer each item was from, but he is a VW guy and said it's all good stuff I can trust. Lifters were $107, bottom gasket set $76, head gasket $41, head gasket set $59, rings for $120, main, IM and rod bearings are $120 all together and other misc stuff. That's assuming my cylinder walls are in spec. Does that all sound about right? I don't mind paying a bit more from them; I know it's quality stuff and if there's a problem I have someone to go to.
And.. everyone likes pictures, right?
Headliner... sunroof and dome light panels are black suede and the headliner itself is black pinstripe
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/5076352028_0d922397ac_z.jpg)
From L-R; 1045 shaft steel to turn boost pins from, 3/4" mild steel for bearing cap spacers, 3/16" aluminum plate that's a secret for now, bolts for the mains (M10x1.5x90mm) (12.9 hex cap of course!) and bolts for the oil pan through the girdle (M6x1x25mm).
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1089/5075756037_c9000c812b_z.jpg)
Boost controller. Called a dawes valve or something like that... adjusted by tensioning a spring holding a ball bearing. It's for SmokeyEddy, so he'll have to tell you all how well it works!
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1434/5075758579_3d3fe6498e_z.jpg)
Photo of the bearing girdle for good luck. 1/2" thick steel thanks to truckinwagen!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5075760027_da92c30e71_z.jpg)
Yes, I know, posting a pic of how low your car is while it's parked on grass is cheating. Whatcha gonna do about it, eh? I need wider spacers though :/ Someday maybe. Probably not with these stock emkay wheels
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5075757307_4d6a7b9dc3_z.jpg)
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Should be a fun build! As much as I love my Corrado, I'm going to have to sell it, bigger and better things.
Good luck!!!
Brendan
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TDI Corrado...
(http://i734.photobucket.com/albums/ww344/calin_cava/P6050107.jpg)
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Boost controller. Called a dawes valve or something like that... adjusted by tensioning a spring holding a ball bearing. It's for SmokeyEddy, so he'll have to tell you all how well it works!
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1434/5075758579_3d3fe6498e_z.jpg)
car looks great man! I'll be watching the build for sure
Can you please tell me where exactly you found the parts to make one of these?
they're so simple, and yet every time i go to Home Depot (a couple different ones!) they've never got the right parts. it's always either the right body with the wrong threaded ends, or the right threaded ends but no ball bearing anywhere to be seen, or not the right barbed valve size, or they don't have enough barbed valve ends, or whatever
it's getting pretty aggravating
where exactly did you find all these parts?
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TDI Corrado...
Umm wow :o
Alright, so mine won't look quite like that. Not by a long shot. I'll be able to spend more time driving than cleaning mine though! :)
where exactly did you find all these parts?
Here's the shopping list and where I got them...
1/4" Ball Bearing - back room at work (KMS Tools)
3 springs total (2 together to increase spring rate and one running outside of them to keep them in line) - from 200? piece spring kit from Princess Auto
1/4" MNPT by 1/4" hose barb, 2 of - KMS Tools
1/4" FNPT tee - KMS Tools
1/4" MNPT pipe plug - Princess Auto
M8x1.25x40mm? bolt and nut - Coquitlam Automotive... doesn't need to be this size, but it worked well and I already had the tap. 5/16" or 3/8" NF would work well too
All my fittings were brass.... Lordco should have them as well
You might want something other than the 1/4" hose barbs to connect to your lines; I'm not sure how Ed's planning to do it. I just picked those up because they were the first bin I grabbed from. Either 1/8" hose barb then like a fuel line held onto your existing lines with a clamp or if you want to get fancy, you can get compression fittings for it (KMS or Lordco)
If you still have trouble finding everything, I could pull together all the fittings you need
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Hmm, so I'm in a bit of a crappy situation with my ignition housing. It's got some stupid shear bolts I need to get out to remove my cracked housing. I managed to steal my car from myself without touching this housing, so I fail to see the point of them?
Anyway, they're hardened steel and made a mess of my cold chisel and EZ-out and I didn't even scratch them.
I think I might just have to find a T-bolt clamp or something to hold the housing together. There's no chance of it failing, I just hate having play there. I'll have to grab an ignition assembly and test fit them all together, see if I can clamp it together somehow. The Bentley even just skips over removal of the steering column housing. Maybe some form of aluminum soldering? I know low temp aluminum welding rods exist, do those work on cast aluminum?
Here are pictures of the crack -
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/5079646741_2908d750b9_z.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/5080241344_30a31f8dcb_z.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/5079648593_35a56553e4_z.jpg)
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Would it be hard/a bad idea to go for an earlier steering column? I'm sure we could find one at pick-a-part. $45 for an adjustable one like any from an MK2. not sure how that all works though with your rack being a corrado rack and stuff.
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I have a MK3 ignition housing around if you want it?
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Would it be hard/a bad idea to go for an earlier steering column? I'm sure we could find one at pick-a-part. $45 for an adjustable one like any from an MK2. not sure how that all works though with your rack being a corrado rack and stuff.
I'm not so sure whether or not it's that easy. A B3 Passat would more likely fit. It's all pretty tight around the column itself. Another part of my problem right now is that it's very difficult to actually remove the housing from the steering column. At the junkyard, I'd probably have to cut it all out to get those shear bolts out back at home...
I did notice that I can actually make a bracket to drop the steering wheel down and bring it closer to me! Very tempting. If I did that and moved the shifter about 3-4" further back somehow, it could be a perfectly fitting cockpit! haha
Maybe I'll just take a bunch of pictures anyway and make a trip to pick-a-part next Tuesday. I'm sure while I'm there I'll find some other stuff I need want anyway
On a good note, I may have found a solution to fixing that crack; Uniweld 4200. http://www.uniweld.com/catalog/alloys/maintenance_repair/uni-4200.htm
Cast aluminum isn't listed anywhere on there, but I've got my fingers crossed hoping it might still work. It only needs 710deg F, so technically it's aluminum solder. That's nowhere near enough heat to melt aluminum, so I shouldn't make the casting too brittle.
Only problem is that stuff is apparently discontinued. I might be able to hunt some down still though, I'm going to call uniweld tomorrow
I just found this stuff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc
Friggen nuts. I actually want to get some of that just to try it out. If it works half as well as that video claims, I'll be thoroughly impressed!
And thanks Catlin, I'll let you know if I need it!
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wow that stuff is great!
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I've got some Uniweld 4200 on order, so I'll see how well that works! Worth a shot anyway
Got some good work done on a side project today though. The AAZ pump's LDA is... lacking. I've got a 1.6TD boost pin, but that doesn't even seem to do much. Rotated from the least amount of fuel possible around to the most fuel brings my EGT's on a 3s romp up by about 100deg, if that. So, I'm going to be turning my own boost pin on a lathe and doing a few things to get as much as I possibly can out of the LDA. I doubt I'll be able to floor it at low boost without puking black smoke out, but I'll see what I can do.
The ramp I'll be cutting will be fairly steep, so to try and soften the angle, I'm making aluminum spacer(s) to increase the travel of the pin. Right now as my pump sits, the needle starts moving at about half throttle and pokes out about 3mm by full throttle. I've had to rotate the throttle shaft back a few notches to keep my idle in check already, so in theory I can move my full throttle stop out a fair bit, so I'll probably have 4-5mm of needle travel. Given that the vertical travel of the pin stock isn't much more than that, it means it'll be riding on about a 45deg angle. Increasing the vertical travel will both give it a softer angle and in theory make it easier to get smooth travel with changing boost pressures.
It's 3/16" thick (nearly 5mm), not sure if I'll make two of them or just one. I'll figure out what angle it'll be sitting at tomorrow after I get some sleep. Too much work lately :(
But enough talking, I took a few pictures...
LDA cap (actually from a 1.6TD pump that has seen it's best days many moons ago) sitting on my 3/16" thick aluminum stock ready for a rough cut
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4152/5085767178_e2373773df_z.jpg)
Waiting for my CA glue to dry to hold the LDA cap in place while I drill the holes, cut it closer with an angle grinder and then run it around a router with a flush trim bit
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5085767828_a3504c1d64_z.jpg)
Showing the aluminum plate glued to the LDA cap lined up against my router bit
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/5085171737_3c01ed31e0_z.jpg)
After most of the cutting. The glue decided to break off just before this, picture taken while waiting for the glue to dry.... again. I think a fair bit of it burnt off from trimming with the angle grinder.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4132/5085769056_1466bc037c_z.jpg)
Basically finished, quick 10s sand/polish by hand then scribed to find the center and center punched for the hole to be drilled in the middle. I'll do this at work where we have a drill press instead of trying to use the hole saw by hand.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/5085769704_960110544a_z.jpg)
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I think that will work really well Matt. just be sure that your pin is polished to a mirror finish and it should travel smoothly.
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lookin' good :)
thanks for the boost controller parts list
i took a trip to KMS and Princess auto today (KMS hot dogs and vendor demo day, cheap tools, woo!)
I got everything except a ball bearing >:(
i thought about just buying a sealed bearing and cutting it apart to get the balls inside, but i can't really tell what size balls are inside just by looking at one
I'll try Lordco and a few other places tomorrow, lordco sometimes has weird things like that
cheers
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lookin' good :)
thanks for the boost controller parts list
i took a trip to KMS and Princess auto today (KMS hot dogs and vendor demo day, cheap tools, woo!)
I got everything except a ball bearing >:(
i thought about just buying a sealed bearing and cutting it apart to get the balls inside, but i can't really tell what size balls are inside just by looking at one
I'll try Lordco and a few other places tomorrow, lordco sometimes has weird things like that
cheers
Go to any decent bicycle shop and ask them for a 1/4" ball bearing. I payed like 10 cents for mine.
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good idea!
thanks :)
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good idea!
thanks :)
And I know I've got more in the back at work if you still need one
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How about installing a clamp around that column?
The ignition cylinder housing slides overtop of it. There's probably enough room for the band of a clamp, but the bolt on the clamp would get in the way
I'm picking up a hoist from a friend of mine around noon or 1pm, so the engine is coming out today! :)
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I didn't end up working on the car at all today, but I did get my hands on a certain roots style blower better known as an Eaton M90.
I was thinking for a bit about possibly running it along with the K24, but once I got it home and sized it up in my engine bay, I realized that wouldn't be very easy... this thing is MASSIVE. Once it's sunny, I'll take a better look at any way of fitting it, but it probably won't happen. I'm more tempted to run it just because it would be awesome than for any logical reason! ;D
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Post the pics of our man-date
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Post the pics of our man-date
Man date!
Ed's car, of course
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1097/5108984643_6889a4131d_z.jpg)
Ropes attached, starting to pull up le moteur
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1419/5108985475_6886a1e95b_z.jpg)
Mr Eddy himself!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5109584488_fec610d327_z.jpg)
Didn't fit coming straight up, had to remove the whole front clip to get it
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1257/5108987421_2ce6765f1b_z.jpg)
And it's gone :(
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1132/5109587050_bb74f4cfdd_z.jpg)
Found it! No harm done :)
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1131/5108989963_595a8be65c_z.jpg)
I've pulled the transmission and clutch off, but one of the flywheel bolts is on there pretty good and I got a complaint about using my impact at 8pm, so I'm not going to sit there for 30s straight trying to rip the last bolt off. I've go the day off work tomorrow and nothing planned other than pulling the engine apart!
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8pm?!?! if it were still july there would still be 2+ hours of daylight...
plus, im almost sporting some serious crack in that picture...
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Crap, one flywheel bolt is stripped :(
I had my torque wrench on the crankshaft nose bolt to keep the engine from turning, turned the torque up on it so it wouldn't click and tried cracking this last flywheel bolt. Well, the torque wrench did click and my other hand slipped, stripping the head on the bolt. Checked the torque wrench and I had it set to just shy of 130ft lbs. That sucker is on there pretty good... I threw the impact back on it again but it just slipped and rounded the bolt head
I've got very limited tools where I am right now, so I might have to drive 45min away and just weld a socket to the end of the bolt. That should do it :/
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How big is the bolt? You can get a Irwin bolt and nut remover and it takes stuff like that off like a joke.
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17mm. I'm going to go pick one of those up and give it a shot, I know they make one specifically for a 17mm bolt. I've used them before but haven't been all that impressed so far
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Best thing I've found for removing broken bolts is to just drill it out and re-tap it. I've tried many removal tools, including some expensive ones, and the most reliable way is to just carefully drill and thread chase out the remnants. Broken extractors in the hole are 10 times harder to remove than the original bolt. Ask me how I know. :-\
Welding would be good too if there's a big enough head to weld to.
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I would try to weld and impact gun if possible. Or drill off the head only and then take off your flywheel. Then you would have more there to weld, bolt extract, or whatever you choose to do.
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I would try to weld and impact gun if possible.
Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. We've got a welder in the back at work, so I'll just go in early tomorrow, weld a socket on and hit it with a proper impact... I'll call it product testing (I work at a tool store ;) ) No screwing around with drilling or any form of extractor
After screwing around with that for a while, I went to my parents house and got started on cleaning up the wiring. It's a combination of OEM wiring from the Corrado, misc hockey taped wiring from the swap and stuff I ran later on, so it's all a bit ugly. Nothing's going to be extended, it's not running through my frame rails, I just want it to look prettier. Taking a look at Ed's car when we pulled my motor made me want to even more. I only got about 3 hours of work in, all of which sitting in gravel while getting rained on, but got through a good chunk of it. Still needs a lot of work, but I think it'll look alright once I've got everything back in. Better than before for sure
Also going to fix that rust on my battery tray.. I'll shoot it with some white Zero Rust and see how well the colour matches. I've got some proper mixed paint at home anyway if it's too far off. It is the battery tray in my engine bay though, there are worse things than the shade of white being off there ;)
Before Photo:
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1229/5112627207_b88260d70c_z.jpg)
During Photo:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/5112628103_1dc78b44e2_z.jpg)
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Hey kinda looks like mine :P
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Ugh, I need more sleep. I got that flywheel bolt off though. Welding a socket to it and using a bigger impact did the trick.
Flywheel is dropped off, ready to be lightened! They said they'd get it down to around 11lbs. Given that it's ~20lbs right now, that should be a significant difference. Should help the fun factor... make it more rev happy like the 1.6 but still having the power of the 1.9. Once the engine's together, I'll let Ed decide as he's had both! :D
Best thing is that I got my boost pin made. It looks pretty sweet! I had an incredible blonde moment and actually turned on out with the taper the wrong way... not so sure how I managed that one. The second pin came out nicer anyway, so maybe that was a good thing. No pictures right now as I don't actually have a digital camera; just my parents when I'm out their way. Soon, though.
I think that's all for now, although my brain isn't working well at the moment anyway
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For future reference, welding a nut on works just a swell as welding a socket on and costs less.
Yes, although we have boxes of sockets in the back at work. Either way wouldn't have coated me anything
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Boost pin! Still need to thread the top... I think it turned out pretty nicely though! The resting position is less fuel than the stock pin; far less than the 1.6 pin, but on boost it should give me some good fueling :)
Later on I can post a pic against the 1.6 pin if anyone wants me to
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5125279706_3c28c7f8eb_z.jpg
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5125279706_3c28c7f8eb_z.jpg)
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Pulled the engine most of the way apart with Ed last night!
We had no way of holding the crank to remove the crank nose bolt, so everything's still sitting in the block.
I did a quick measure of the bores; there's still soot on the cylinder walls so it's by no means the final measurement I'm going with, but it looks like the bores are well within spec. Like a few ten thou over the original bore. I can still see crosshatching on the walls! The only two things that made me nervous were cracks in the pre cups and the piston wobbled a bit.. maybe 1-2 thou. I won't worry about it all until I have everything pulled apart and can measure everything properly. I need to order parts on tuesday to meet my deadline for having the engine back together, so the rest is coming apart after I get home from work today!
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I didn't end up working on the car at all today, but I did get my hands on a certain roots style blower better known as an Eaton M90.
I was thinking for a bit about possibly running it along with the K24, but once I got it home and sized it up in my engine bay, I realized that wouldn't be very easy... this thing is MASSIVE. Once it's sunny, I'll take a better look at any way of fitting it, but it probably won't happen. I'm more tempted to run it just because it would be awesome than for any logical reason! ;D
i have a M90 also, and i have fully accepted the fact that there is no room on a VW diesel. unless camshaft driven..
if you could find a VOLVO marine diesel supercharger (mfd by ogura clutch) and yes, it is a clutched charger.. but i dunno how hard they are to get ahold of. but they are like a foot, by a foot, by about 4" thick..
3.9 litre 6 banger direct injected volvo diesels come with them. KAMD series engines maybe?
http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htm (http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htm)
theres the list of s/c and specs.. they are cute little chargers! who knows how hard it is to source one tho..
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That boost pin looks good, but I would note that the stock cones are all offset.
I'm aware of that, but that can't be turned on a manual lathe.
Just from playing with a 1.6TD pin, I don't think the LDA on my AAZ pump can actually control the fueling enough to keep the smoke consistent at any boost level. I'll set the fueling for as much as I can and use the LDA to minimize the off boost smoke as much as I'm able to. The rest of the low boost smoke control will be with my right foot.
My adjustments will consist of spring rate and preload. It's not the best, but I'm just hoping to get close for now. If I am able to change the fueling with the LDA that I'm smoking on boost but not off boost, I'll just turn a shallower pin, although I don't expect to have that problem :)
and ROR, those chargers look pretty cool... I'd be curious to see their efficiency numbers. I wasn't all that serious about running the charger at all, I just thought for a short time that it would be pretty sweet.
There are guys running M90's, mostly on 8v and 16v gassers, they've got custom noses to shorten the charger and are running different rads http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4878890-Mounting-an-Eaton-M90
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RadoTD and I reckon the amount of time and work it would be for he/us (he really) to do that is huge. It would take hours. At least with the tools at hand it would take forever. One would have to then cut the sides flat again after setting the offset and you'd have to start with a piece of stock large enough that once its turned & offset it has enough material to still produce a full pin from it. I dunno if it would be worth all the time?
bosch must have precision ground these pins in order to do it quick enough for production.
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in other news, i brought over the tool i made for removing the crank bolt which astonishingly came out very easily. There was also no locktite on the bolt? Matt was able to pull down on his 1.5meter long breaker bar and hold the plate i had bolted to the pulley with the other hand and turn the bolt out...
The tongue and groove of the pulley & crank were near perfect!!!
Removed the crank & pistons and started on the tedious and seemingly endless cleaning job. The rings were well worn but nothing out of the ordinary.
Also mic'd the crank. The mains had some wear but the rods were hardly over original spec. I think the most was 0.002"? two thousandths of an inch? Matt wrote it all down. I didn't check any of my tolerances as i didn't have to tools to do so, so i wonder how sloppy my crank is :P
We go the blocked cleaned up for the most part and Matt (RadoTD) has a very appropriate colour scheme planned.
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Haha, got Ed updating my thread for me :P
Yes, I understand what you mean now, Andrew about how to turn those. It would be incredibly difficult and probably not worth the effort. I could make pins with each degree of taper I could imagine in less time, so if I were to go that far, I could just swap pins completely to adjust it. If I had the machine set up fully, I could make each pin in under an hour. Trial and error though. I'll get the car running on this one and see if there is any way I could make it better
I was just properly measuring my bores a few minutes ago. Nothing was out of round by more than 7/10000" but my numbers were consistently about 15/10000" sloppy. Still within the spec of 4/1000" (that seems huge to me), but I was surprised as I could see cross hatching everywhere but about 1 square inch and the front of the cylinder wall, presumably from piston slap (that patch was where I was taking my measurement for x axis). Then when I went to measure my pistons, I realized I was checking my bores off of the spec for my pistons! Once I figured that out, I'm amazed how good the numbers for my bore are. Funny thing is that I was out of round 6 and 7/10000" on cylinders 1 and 4, but 2 and 3 were both within 3/10000"
Main bearing journals made me unhappy though. I spent about 2 hours measuring them; repeated it until I was within a ten thou every time. Measured left and right to check for tapering and 90deg out to check for out of round. Every measurement was 2.1241 +/- 2/10000". Spec is 2.1260 and the limit is 2.12435, so I'm just outside the limit. So either I'm measuring wrong, my mic is out in that range or I have immaculately consistent wear and need to get it turned. I'll probably give it to a machine shop and have them check it for me and machine if needed. I was hoping to not have to though :(
Rods are in spec
Also, Ed got me a bit paranoid about replacing the IM shaft bearings. I've got 2/1000" play and the limit is 10/1000". I'm thinking of just leaving them alone. Is that a dumb idea? I figure it should be fine because even though the engine is going to be pushed harder, that doesn't change forces on the IM shaft. Should I replace them anyway?
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Am I way off base? It would seem like it might double the machining required, but not more than that.
Interesting... the way I had thought of doing it involved cutting the body of the pin itself angled out of the piece of square (or actually rectangular) square stock. I didn't see cutting the taper like that and just finishing it from the body. It certainly wouldn't be as difficult as I was thinking.
I can still think of 3 difficulties. First two are more specific to my situation
First, I don't have a milling machine to cut the flat spots. It could be done tediously with a drill press though.
Second, I don't have a 4 jaw chuck
The third thing that makes it difficult is that particularly when cutting the taper, due to how the toolbit is cutting, it's very hard on the tooling. With wood lathes, cutting square stock isn't as tough due to wood being fairly soft. With a very hard/brittle tool bit, with the square stock coming around hitting the tool bit every single time, you can't take very much material off at all. If I were turning a piece of square stock down until it's round, I would actually put the toolbit in far enough that the very tip of it is always cutting. Cutting that taper, I'd have to go straight in.
A proper machinist could probably make one fairly quickly, but for me, I'm probably still looking at a few hours. Certainly doable though, I never thought about turning it quite like that!
And an update on the build... turns out the degreaser I got to clean all the internals with (which specifically says it's for cleaning engines!) reacts with aluminum.
Are the cam towers on an AAZ the same as any gasser? :/
I'm pretty lucky I didn't submerge my head in it like I was thinking.. or my piston tops
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Thanks for the info. Yeah, lacking milling machine or 4-jaw chuck might be a deal breaker. I can understand how cutting into the square stock would be hard on the tooling. The initial cut would all be on one side of the stock and definitely out of balance. That said, the finished taper would all be inside the circle of the finished pin so the tooling wouldn't really know the difference. Anyway, not trying to get you to do it, I just find it interesting.
Tough break on the degreaser.
Yeah, its noisy and can break your cutter. Its called and "interrupted cut" and is the norm for making tooling from what ever tool steel chunk you find in the material bin at the engineering place I cut steel and aluminum.
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Sounds like he knows more about it than me ^^ :)
Apparently the cam bearing caps are line bored. Does anyone know how critical that is? I'll get pics up hopefully tonight. There's actually a build up on the cap itself so I might be able to get that ground off and it's just a few mm on each one. The hard edge is rounded off though...
I'm heading to the machine shop tomorrow so I'll see what they say
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Engine is basically back together... there were cracks in my precups, so I've got some new ones on their way in.
I want to know if I'm crazy here or not, but I'm thinking of grinding them out a little, for the purpose of lowering my compression ratio. I'll have to figure out what their volume is and how much I can actually remove... planning to keep the CR similar or a bit higher than the 1.9 head on a 1.6.
Any opinions on this? Can I safely remove enough material to make that much of a difference? It shouldn't take much and then I can run more power with less peak force trying to bend the rods/lift the head.
Also, while I'm there, any experience on actually porting out the openings to them? Good idea for better flow out of the precup or bad idea because it'll more significantly change the swirl inside the chamber?
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IMO, your old cups are shown not to be thick enough, don't grid the new ones, just use a different HG.
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your old cups are shown not to be thick enough
That, my friend, is a very good point. Level headed people are good... they help keep me from doing stupid things :)
[url http="http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24642.0"]This thread[/url] I just found has, among others, 2 significant points that I saw. First, inconel work hardening quickly. Baaad if they're already cracking. Plus, I'd be slowly carving out of them with a carbide burr - taking small chunks out a few hundred thousand times per minute. They probably wouldn't last all that long.
Second thing is that apparently not all of your combustion is intended to happen in the precup! I always thought the idea was to get as much of the combustion happening in there as possible.
Looks like a thicker HG is the way to go. Once I get my rod bolts in, I'll torque that all up and see what HG I'm supposed to have and see what I can do to my CR by going thicker.
Another thought I just had is what about turning my valves on a lathe? Both undercutting the stems for more flow and carving out the face for lower compression. Might have to think on that one
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Just my experiences here, I had a 3 notch in place of a 1 notch on my very tired 1.6 and it wouldn't start under about 5C.
I mini-rebuilt it (rings and valve lapping) but kept the same thickness head gasket and stranded my self at a ski hill because it wasn't enough compression to get going. It would always roll start straight away but off the starter was a no-go.
Lowering CR in my honest to god opinion is just like asking to not be able to start the car with the starter... for almost no benefit except for a strange possibly false? sense of peace of mind about ... having less ?pressure? in the cylinders but if you think about it - the CR difference between a gas engine and diesel is so massive that to be anywhere near the pressures of a gas engine the idea of diesel is just totally out the window.
i would leave it alone... just look at anyone running a super charger + turbo in combination. Torque bends rods...
On the 1.9/1.6 with a 1 notch i had to cycle the GP's at least twice and force them to stay on while i cranked for a good 10 seconds before it would start up at Whistler... very very annoying and killed my battery and eventually starter. Massive white cloud of embarrassment too.
I suppose if you plan on running 50+psi (somehow - but would be amazing) and the car not being your dd and you're ok will roll starting it then give'r!!! :D
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For some reason I can't find the compression ratio of the 1.9 head on 1.6 block... IIRC it was like 19:1? Stock I'm 22.5:1. The 3 notch HG seems to be .008" thicker than 1 notch, which equals pretty close to 1cc, bringing me from 22.5 to about 21.3. If I took .5cc out of each valve, then I would be sitting at just over 20:1.
Given that I could start any day of the week on the first turn without my glow plugs even hooked up, I don't expect to have many issues. I also don't spend as much time up the mountain as you, Ed :) And even if I was having trouble, I can swap a different HG on again and get back up to 21.3:1 compression.
The advantages... possibly better gas mileage, less wear daily driving the car and more power potential without destroying things. Those all sound pretty sweet to me. Gas engines in comparison are able to put out crazy amounts of power and it's often knock limited, so the closer I can get to gasser kind of forces on the internals, the better. It's far from just being a strange sense of peace of mind.
Does anyone know the compression ratio of the 1.6/1.9 hybrid? There are enough people running those, I'd be comfortable running a CR near what that is. Edit - looks like it is around 19.5:1, so I would hope to get mine to the 20:1 range...
Also, any other ideas on dropping CR?
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I put a 3-hole metal head gasket in the 1.6 when I rebuilt it. It starts instantly every time, the only time it requires a bit more cranking is when it's below 0 F outside and I have not run the block heater. Usually a double-glow will get it to fire pretty quick, then it needs to sit and idle for a few minutes before it smooths out.
I don't think you would see an issue at 20:1, especially if you took the compression out of the valves instead of out of the squish area. (like with a thicker headgasket)
Brendan
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I'd leave the valves themselves alone, they live in a tough place. You can cut the seats back so the valve is deeper up in the head, less risk of a crash, and you get room for bigger cam ;D
...but the head is less rebuildable.(there is a spec in the Bentley)
IMO, cutting the intake guide is better than the exhaust which always wears more, and will probably be needing to shed more than stock heat.
Not exactly scientific, but I redid my friends ALH that VW had assembles with 1 step too thick of gasket(http://singstarsource.com/sswf/images/smilies/facepalm.gif), and it climbs the local grade at 55+ instead of struggling at 45. New nozzles at the same time though, bone stock otherwise.
GM thought bigger cup ports would help on the 6.5 turbo heads, but CW seems to be they mostly just get worse MPG.
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I'd leave the valves themselves alone, they live in a tough place. You can cut the seats back so the valve is deeper up in the head, less risk of a crash, and you get room for bigger cam ;D
Are the forces really that crazy on them?
The valve seat is the thinnest part and takes the largest amount of force, but I can easily take enough material out without going near the valve seat. If I were to take a 3/4" drill bit for the intake valve and 5/8" bit for the exhaust, then drill those into the valve just until the tapered head is all the way in, that'll give me right around what I need. A 19mm diameter cone at 22.5deg (135deg drill bit) isn't a whole lot taken out of the valve in a non critical area. I also don't have to pay a machine shop for that ;)
Drilling the valves like that would give me about 1cc/cyl and a 3 notch instead of 1 notch gives another cc, bringing my CR to just over 20:1, with the option of putting the right head gasket back on to bring my compression half the way back.
Not a huge effect on squish/quench (something I'll need to do some reading on to understand better!) while bringing my CR right where I want it
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And I was actually thinking about a bigger cam... I could get the valve clearance for an ABA or other similar gasser cam, but the lobes from my diesel cam are very close, so anything higher lift would involve more head machining and get more and more difficult. I'm trying to keep this as low budget as possible! ABA cam would be sweeet though!
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I have an OBD2 ABA cam lying around if you need one ;D
-Owen
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I have an OBD1 ABA cam lying around if you need one ;D
-Owen
Mmmmkay, so I just ran down and looked at it... it looks like the cam would actually fit in the head and even if it didn't, that's not a machined surface or weak point... some "clearancing" with a die grinder would fix that.
.008" from the HG, plus there is more than .040" between the valve face and the valve seat... I wonder how much would actually have to be removed to clear. I suppose the only way to know for sure is to put one in a head and try it.
You suck, Owen! :D
*edit - does anyone know if that would lower dynamic compression, and does dynamic compression affect cold starting issues? I assume it would because you're not compressing the cylinder right from the bottom.
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the ABA cam still has negative overlap, so dynamic compression should not be too much of an issue.
from the measuring I did the ABA is very similar to the diesel cam, except lift.
most of the duration differences are on the BDC end of the stroke, so there should not be too much issue with valves hitting the pistons.
of course the only way to know for sure is to slap one in a head and turn the motor over by hand to see...
-Owen
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from the measuring I did the ABA is very similar to the diesel cam, except lift.
Oh crap, looks like I might be finding a way to get an ABA cam mounted now...
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physically, the only thing needed to do to install a gasser cam in a diesel is an adapter to go from the keyway end of a gasser cam(just like the end of an intermediate shaft) to the diesel taper.
but as you have access to a lathe, that should not be an issue...
-Owen
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Interesting.. how much for shipping down here? I can pm you my address again if you need it.
They only way I'll run it is if I actually clear without facing my valves down though. If I face my valves first, I have no way of knowing how much clearance there is. At least if it's clear cold with stock valves, 30 thou taken off the face of the valve, I know there's 30 thou of clearance!
Still not too sure about this, I really don't want to end up destroying my engine before I really get it going for something silly like this :-\
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They only way I'll run it is if I actually clear without facing my valves down though. If I face my valves first, I have no way of knowing how much clearance there is. At least if it's clear cold with stock valves, 30 thou taken off the face of the valve, I know there's 30 thou of clearance!
You can put the crank at TDC measure valve clearance and then push the valve down until it hit's the piston then measure again. Unless you have hydro lifters that'll mess with the readings.
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well, for the price of shipping the cam is yours, it is just taking up space at my place right now...
your address would be great to figure out the shipping cost.
the other thing you can do to check actual clearance is put some clay on the piston tops where the valves would contact, then after you turn the engine over you can pull the head and check the thickness of the squished clay.
that way you can be sure of the actual clearances involved.
-Owen
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Hmm, both good ideas. Any idea how much clearance I should hope for? Also, Rabbitman's idea might be tough, because I think it's a few degrees before and after TDC that it would be most likely to contact. Not sure on that though
For the purpose of testing it, would I just clamp the old head gasket instead of crushing a new one?
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for testing the old head gasket would be fine.
and the nice thing about the clay trick is it shows you the absolute closest the valve would ever get, even if you dont know when that is.
-Owen
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for testing the old head gasket would be fine.
and the nice thing about the clay trick is it shows you the absolute closest the valve would ever get, even if you dont know when that is.
-Owen
Or almost...heat expansion, rod stretch at RPM, and timing belt elasticity remain a mystery.
ED; Cam twist too.
Are the forces really that crazy on them?
The valve seat is the thinnest part and takes the largest amount of force, but I can easily take enough material out without going near the valve seat. If I were to take a 3/4" drill bit for the intake valve and 5/8" bit for the exhaust, then drill those into the valve just until the tapered head is all the way in, that'll give me right around what I need. A 19mm diameter cone at 22.5deg (135deg drill bit) isn't a whole lot taken out of the valve in a non critical area. I also don't have to pay a machine shop for that ;)
Drilling the valves like that would give me about 1cc/cyl and a 3 notch instead of 1 notch gives another cc, bringing my CR to just over 20:1, with the option of putting the right head gasket back on to bring my compression half the way back.
Not a huge effect on squish/quench (something I'll need to do some reading on to understand better!) while bringing my CR right where I want it
The force on the seat is spread over a huge(relatively) area, but it all comes through the neck. ever seen a valve fail in such a way as to shed a 'skirt'?
If they hit something one side might fall off, but if the valve just fails in operation, the head drops off the stem, and falls into the engine nomnomnomBOOM!
(http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Project-Cars/Project-Nissan-Silvia/P1050637/707707380_Yqk2W-M.jpg)
One of these valves is sodium filled, and one is not...Feeling lucky with that drill ?
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well, yes, all that too.
but it will show static clearance, so then all you have to do is decide what you think is appropriate clearance to account for the other variables.
-Owen
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The force on the seat is spread over a huge(relatively) area, but it all comes through the neck. ever seen a valve fail in such a way as to shed a 'skirt'?
If they hit something one side might fall off, but if the valve just fails in operation, the head drops off the stem, and falls into the engine nomnomnomBOOM!
Do you mean to say they fail like this?
(http://www.elliottracingteam.com/Pictures/race9-2.jpg)
I won't undercut them, so where I would be taking material from wouldn't affect that at all.
Any way to find out if they are sodium filled? They're original OEM valves.
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Re: Gasser cam. How are you going to time the engine? The slot in the back of the diesel cam is not there on the Gasser one. Would be a bit of a *** to try and find exact TDC on a cam with a different profile than the stock one and cut the slot at just the right place. I wouldn't know any other way to time the cam when the difference of a degree or so is enough to lunch the head.
Brendan
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Re: Gasser cam. How are you going to time the engine?
That is a very good point. I threw running an ABA cam out there kind of as a joke, then it seemed plausible but I think it's just too sketchy for me to be running right now. Maybe if this were a second car...
I still want to look into machining my valves. I think for the work it'll take, the benefits will be worth it.
I called my machine shop and asked them about it, they said that only the stem was filled with sodium and they were fine to machine. The old 1.8L mk2 gassers also had sodium valves, so I'm going to get one of those, break the stem off, carefully dispose of the sodium (throw it in a bucket of water while wearing safety glasses) and then cut the valve apart to see how far down the stem the vein runs. Then I'll know if it's safe to machine them out on a lathe! :D
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Okay, so I've decided to leave the valves alone. I'll get it running for now, maybe go bigger someday later. The picture below made me nervous, I didn't realize how far down the sodium went. That's not a VW valve, but I would expect mine to look the same.
Maybe someday later I'll give it a shot. I should really get this car back together for now though. Thicker head gasket will be the extent of my compression reduction for now.
(http://www.mahle.com/C1256F7900537A47/vwContentByKey/W26XZKNW804STULEN/$FILE/30_seite11_119.jpg)
Tomorrow's job... port the head *evil grin*
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I think that is the right choice, and if you do want more, cutting the seats deeper is a minor machining operation.
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I got undercut swirl polished stainless steel valves. I got all intake and exhaust for about the cost of 1 sodium filled exhaust valve.
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Progress:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0063.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0062.jpg)
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Where is the CV going to go
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Where is the CV going to go
It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but I can assure you it will fit!
The downpipe from the LP turbo is going to go just over my diff and shifter cables, then drop down between the diff and ABS pump, then turn back and go between the firewall and steering rack
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Make sure to use some sort of high temp rated grease in those CVs lol...maybe not lol, might not be a bad idea.
What did you end up doing for valves? Air cooled engines plus had those stainless ones around 8.00 each:D If you are still looking.
BTW, looks great what you are doing.
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how come it looks like the big turbo is on the engine, and the small turbo is fed from the big one?
or is that just how the picture was taken?
is that a K24 on top, and K14 on botttom?
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
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Oh, I also paid about $8 per valve for stainless ones.
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
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$8 each? Crap, the cheapest I found was over $25 Per valve and not even stainless!
The head is back together with the valves completely stock. C/r is stock other than a 3 notch gasket instead of 1 notch. I think I'll get through some school at least before going crazy. I'll prob end up going tdi at that point anyway
And Ed, how did you know I'd be wrapping it? Haha. High temp cv grease still sounds like a good idea though!
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
Only early 020's were smaller. Late mk2's are 100mm. My diff housing is a bit larger though
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
Only early 020's were smaller. Late mk2's are 100mm. My diff housing is a bit larger though
i thought O2A trannies had like 108, or 114mm CVs? i could be COMPLETELY WRONG tho. im not THAT familiar with rados.
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02J's had the 108mm flanges, except for the TDI 02J's which had 100mm flanges.
Brendan
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I actually have a bunch of pictures on my hard drive. Been pretty busy lately though and haven't put them up. Here's a few I just took a few minutes ago though!
Still a few things to do before dropping the engine back in, the plan is to get a few people together on Sunday and get that done
Finish my oil feed lines
Make a K24 oil return line
Tighter bend on intermediate boost pipe (see below)
Clean up the bungs on my oil pan for oil temp and return and paint the pan
A few other little things, but I'm done thinking for today!
As you can see in the next few pics, the bend for the charge pipe between the two turbos doesn't fit perfectly. Realistically I need a tighter radius... I could cut a chunk out of it, cheat the radius a little and tig it back together, off tangent. I'll see at work tomorrow if I'm able to just bend it tighter though. Another 20 degrees or so and I can tilt the cold side of the K24 up further, shorten my pipe and it should all live happily ever after.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5263025642_52451f133f_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5129/5263026320_411e9be21e_z.jpg)
Custom brazed fitting for my oil feed to clear the other turbo. Had some difficulty actually brazing it together, so it doesn't look too pretty but it will work
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5205/5262417153_e0d82146ef_z.jpg)
Just another angle
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5263027674_aaef995a18_z.jpg)
You can see the K24 wastegate peeking through here right by the K14 oil return. Might be interesting squeezing my hand in there
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5168/5262418423_25b49ef206_z.jpg)
Surprisingly handy whiteboard for keeping track of things!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5130/5263029034_03f094fce5_z.jpg)
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looks damn good!
but you might need a big ol' wastegate to bypass the HP turbo to keep boost down to mere insane levels.
wish I got around to a compound setup when I had a pair of turbos lying around...
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looks damn good!
but you might need a big ol' wastegate to bypass the HP turbo to keep boost down to mere insane levels.
wish I got around to a compound setup when I had a pair of turbos lying around...
Thanks!
I'll be porting out the wastegate of the HP turbo and it will always be doing some of the work, so it won't need to be completely bypassed. One more thing I need to do is get a bung on the intermediate charge pipe, both to control the wastegate of the HP turbo with (I'll be running the HP turbo off of the pressure differential between the intermediate charge pipe and intake manifold) and to run a boost gauge between the two turbos.
The plan is to set the HP turbo for 12psi across itself. If manifold pressure - intermediate pressure < 12psi, the HP turbo's wastegate is doing it's job. If that difference is greater than 12psi, I'll need to chop into my exhaust mani and throw an external wastegate in there. If it works like this, no need to go there
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So matt decided he needed a bench grinder but didn't want to buy one ...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0070.jpg)(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0072.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0074.jpg)(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0080.jpg)
Matt doing some brazing:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0076.jpg)
And welding the oil pan stuff:
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0083.jpg)
"Hey Matt, what are you doing?"
"what?"
*click*
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0084.jpg)(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0085.jpg)
annnnd we fixed my charge pipes (broke the record for most T-clamps used eve).
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0079.jpg)
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Looks great. I don't know the angle of your oil pan, but the return maybe a bit low if that is the return you are welding up. just make sure there is no blockage :D
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Looks great. I don't know the angle of your oil pan, but the return maybe a bit low if that is the return you are welding up. just make sure there is no blockage :D
In that picture you see, the NPT bung I'm welding on is for my oil temp sender. The ground clamp is actually attached to the oil return; a -8 JIC that's right near the top of the pan
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Good. I was a little worried for ya. Now that you explain the pic I can see it. I probably could be one of the least observant people on the planet.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0085.jpg)
Ever get a little hot on the short and curlys??? I have a problem lighting things on fire and that one looks a little too close to important equipment :o
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My boys are about a .75% carbon content alloy, bringing the melting temperature up to just shy of 1500*C. Paint and coveralls surely burn at no more than 400*C, so there was a good margin of safety! Safety first, of course!
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Safety first. LOL. Not one picture are there gloves but that welder was the cleanest MIG I've ever used.
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I enjoy this thread greatly.
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Matt, did you make double sure the intermediate charge pipe will clear the firewall?
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Nope! If it doesn't fit, I'll figure that out when I run into problems. For now, I'll just try to make it fit the easiest way possible.
And I'm glad you enjoy this thread, rallydiesel! Would a video of me and Eddy singing/dancing a duet make it better? (no homo... or wait?)
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It's hard to see in this pic, crappy cell phone pic, but I need to bend my intermediate charge pipe further. We have no proper tubing bender at work right now (need to get a new demo unit on the floor!), but we a tubing roller right now. the dies were too far apart, so I attempted to improvise and pinch some v blocks against the pins that the dies usually sit on, then put the dies in the v blocks and just press the pipe into them.
Didn't work haha. So, either cut it, cheat the radius and tig it or wait until we have a better bender on display.
It will actually work, the coupler is just kinked a little coming off the outlet of the K24, you can see it in the pics I posted earlier.
Pic of the failure though!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5267461621_f87517aca0_z.jpg)
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Safety first. LOL. Not one picture are there gloves but that welder was the cleanest MIG I've ever used.
safety first ed, get a damn t-belt cover on that car asap.. a rock thru the belt would ruin your day buddy.. and i know how much work you just did to that car.. so do yourself a favor and put one on ;D
a video of you and ed singing and dancing.. i would definitely watch that. lol. post it up in the "Shenanigans" thread. lmfao.
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I have a question for whoever can answer it... the nuts on my bumper bracket that hold the front subframe on had partially rusted out and one had actually stripped out. I ordered new stainless bolts/nuts and welded the stainless nuts on top of the original flange nut. Figured it couldn't hurt and will never rust out
I was curious about the tensile strength of the bolts compared to the original, expecting the stainless to be stronger (A2-70), but they were actually only 100,000psi, where as the original bolts, 10.9 are 150,000psi. I'm just wondering if the stainless will be strong enough to run without worrying about it or should I put 10.9 or even 12.9 bolts back in? There are rubber mounts between the subframe and frame rails, so the peak forces shouldn't be crazy, I'm just wondering because VW did put 10.9 bolts on there...
Pics for reference
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5084/5270469664_325001ae6a_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5085/5270470282_bd9ee90a49_z.jpg)
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Pick me pick me...
I sell nuts and bolts. You could buy a 316 grade stainless and it is in between the 10.9 and 12.9 strengths. 18-8 is almost like grade 5 in US terms, but about the same or less than 8.8.
If you replaced the stainless with 12.9 it is so high carbon that it won't rust like a normal bolt.
Also, when you weld stainless to regular steel it will take on some of those properties and the weld will still rust. Some of the nut too.
It only has to hold the bumper there. In an impact it will be going against the diameter of the bolt not pulling against the bolt's length. Sometimes shear strength in a fastener is good even if the tensile is not that good.
Do what you wish, but I would probably go with the stainless 316. But since you already have the 18-8 or 303 whichever it is about the same I would just run it.
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Okay, I pick you :)
One thing you are missing though is that on the corrado, those bolts do hold up my front subframe, it's different than the mk2 where the nuts that rusted are actually in the frame rail
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We can't forget to paint all of the welds.
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We can't forget to paint all of the welds.
all those nice clean welds wont be so nice and clean once the car finds the salty canadian roads.
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There are interesting updates to come, but I just finished working a 20hr shift at work and I'm starting another 12hr+ shift in less than 5 hours. So all a yall's gonna have to wait.
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Facepalm.
Don't know exactly how I managed to miss this critical measurement, but apparently I did. Not even sure why I didn't actually put that bracket on the engine.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5049/5282353572_e82b1e3089_z.jpg)
Step by step how-to on fixing that issue.
Step 1 - sulk for 30s calling yourself an idiot
Step 2 - stare at car for about 5min
Step 3 - cut things apart with a grinder
Step 4 - stick said stuff back together with a welder
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5282354750_3f159a0d9b_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5083/5282355982_a2f80376b0_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5165/5282357214_f5f42ed92f_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5281756689_6b4abd055d_z.jpg)
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5209/5281758539_d96448a262_z.jpg)
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Such an awsome compound built rado. I have one question for you. How are you going to be wastegating the turbos? Are you using external or modified internal ones? Im thinking about doing this also, but the idea of how the compound wategating works is still beyond me.
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you just need one good wastegate to bypass the little turbo at high speeds. it sends the exhaust from the engine, directly to the big turbo. pretty much bypassing the small turbo.
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you just need one good wastegate to bypass the little turbo at high speeds. it sends the exhaust from the engine, directly to the big turbo. pretty much bypassing the small turbo.
Okay so any good external wategate would work for this? is there a different between gasser wastegates and one that would work on a diesel.
And how do you calculate boost on compounds? Ive heard so many different ways I dont know what to believe. :)
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Such an awsome compound built rado. I have one question for you. How are you going to be wastegating the turbos? Are you using external or modified internal ones? Im thinking about doing this also, but the idea of how the compound wategating works is still beyond me.
I'll be using the internal wastegates for now, but keeping an eye on the pressure between the two turbo's on the intake side to make sure the K14's wastegate is working well enough.
K14 wastegate will be the difference between the manifold and the charge pipe in between. K24 will be wastegated at the difference between manifold and ambient.
The K14 will be set at around 10-15psi. I'll use 15psi for the example for now. So say there is actually a 2psi vacuum between the two turbos. Theoretically the K14 will open it's wastegate at 13psi then and start dumping more into the K24. That won't ever happen because I'm sure the K24 will be pushing positive pressure by the time I'm getting over 15psi. So, assuming the K24 builds 5psi by the time my K14 builds 15, then the K14 wastegate starts opening at 20psi at the manifold.
Extrapolating that to the other end, the K24 wastegate will open at 30psi at the manifold, but the K14 is still squishing the air another 15psi extra after it goes through the K24. So, when the manifold pressure is at 30psi, the K24 is only actually pressurizing 15psi and the K14 is pressurizing 15psi. Pressure ratio's of 2.02 and 1.51, respectively.
When you throw it on a compressor map, the way I understand it is that both turbos will be doing the full flow, but at each of those pressure ratios. That setup will put my K14 on the bottom right side of the map, but my K24 right in the middle. Due to the higher pressure ratio, the K24 will actually be doing more work, so the idea was to peg it in the highest efficiency range as possible.
So I'll be keeping an eye on the pressure between my two turbo's and if manifold pressure - intermediate pressure > 15psi, then I know my K14's wastegate is insufficient and I'll add an external one on. Otherwise, if it is enough, I have nothing to worry about. The K14 won't just be coasting, the way I want mine set up, it will still be doing work and therefore will still need air running through it, not just all bypassing
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(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5282354750_3f159a0d9b_z.jpg)
If the CV will fit as when I asked before you could just take and weld a new engine mount. Level with the bottom of the turbo and it would work. You could even put a nice little bend in it to clear the intake if nessesary.
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Yes, I picked up plate steel to make that new mount and drop it under my intake hose. I had to modify the mount itself and where it's bolted to the subframe to keep the engine at the same angle while lowering the mount under the intake
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Such an awsome compound built rado. I have one question for you. How are you going to be wastegating the turbos? Are you using external or modified internal ones? Im thinking about doing this also, but the idea of how the compound wategating works is still beyond me.
I'll be using the internal wastegates for now, but keeping an eye on the pressure between the two turbo's on the intake side to make sure the K14's wastegate is working well enough.
K14 wastegate will be the difference between the manifold and the charge pipe in between. K24 will be wastegated at the difference between manifold and ambient.
The K14 will be set at around 10-15psi. I'll use 15psi for the example for now. So say there is actually a 2psi vacuum between the two turbos. Theoretically the K14 will open it's wastegate at 13psi then and start dumping more into the K24. That won't ever happen because I'm sure the K24 will be pushing positive pressure by the time I'm getting over 15psi. So, assuming the K24 builds 5psi by the time my K14 builds 15, then the K14 wastegate starts opening at 20psi at the manifold.
Extrapolating that to the other end, the K24 wastegate will open at 30psi at the manifold, but the K14 is still squishing the air another 15psi extra after it goes through the K24. So, when the manifold pressure is at 30psi, the K24 is only actually pressurizing 15psi and the K14 is pressurizing 15psi. Pressure ratio's of 2.02 and 1.51, respectively.
When you throw it on a compressor map, the way I understand it is that both turbos will be doing the full flow, but at each of those pressure ratios. That setup will put my K14 on the bottom right side of the map, but my K24 right in the middle. Due to the higher pressure ratio, the K24 will actually be doing more work, so the idea was to peg it in the highest efficiency range as possible.
So I'll be keeping an eye on the pressure between my two turbo's and if manifold pressure - intermediate pressure > 15psi, then I know my K14's wastegate is insufficient and I'll add an external one on. Otherwise, if it is enough, I have nothing to worry about. The K14 won't just be coasting, the way I want mine set up, it will still be doing work and therefore will still need air running through it, not just all bypassing
theres no way to keep the exhaust from going thru the turbo.. its not gonna just coast.. its still going to be working no matter what. exhaust takes the path of least resistance.. and the path of least resistance is thru both the WG and turbo..
and dont you just love it when you hang your turbos on your engine just to figure out that your rear motor mount is in the way of your turbo intake?
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theres no way to keep the exhaust from going thru the turbo.. its not gonna just coast.. its still going to be working no matter what. exhaust takes the path of least resistance.. and the path of least resistance is thru both the WG and turbo..
and dont you just love it when you hang your turbos on your engine just to figure out that your rear motor mount is in the way of your turbo intake?
Yes, I realize it won't completely bypass, but with a large enough wastegate and the HP turbo wastegated between say 15psi manifold and ambient, if you're boosting 30psi, the HP turbo will actually be a restriction that the LP turbo is forcing through. The way I'm planning to wastegate it, the HP turbo is always compressing the air more. That's what I meant, maybe not the best choice of words.
And bumps along the way just make it more interesting :)
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So I'll be keeping an eye on the pressure between my two turbo's and if manifold pressure - intermediate pressure > 15psi, then I know my K14's wastegate is insufficient and I'll add an external one on. Otherwise, if it is enough, I have nothing to worry about. The K14 won't just be coasting, the way I want mine set up, it will still be doing work and therefore will still need air running through it, not just all bypassing
So this intermediate pressure is refuring to the pressure in the pipe the outlet of the k24 and the inlet of the k14?
After reading over it about 5 times ill start to understand it more haha, thanks for the info man.
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Yes, that is the pipe I'm referring to
If anything doesn't make sense, I can attempt to clarify it better. I read through it and confused myself! Then I clicked Post :)
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Okay awsome, Ill let you know. I think ill be needing a few more boost gauges for this project now :P
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And once you've got that sorted out, see here for some more reading! http://www.scribd.com/full/38878486?access_key=key-1grtryzbk62co0xusgte
Starts at page 22, lots of info there! :)
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One part I had completely forgotten to get is the crank nose bolt. I went down to an OEM parts supplier and got one, but to my surprise it's actually a 12.9 bolt, so it's not TTY. I found this odd, but he said that's the new OEM bolt. None of my manuals list a torque spec other than the TTY, so I'm not sure what to torque it to!
I found a chart here (http://www.tpub.com/content/filters/TM-10-4330-237-13P/css/TM-10-4330-237-13P_105.htm) that says 177ftlbs max for a 14mm 12.9 bolt and dry threads. Is that a safe torque? I'll be putting blue loc tite on, so should I reduce the torque slightly?
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Myke W has the TTY bolts. The older design I don't know about trying it.
The 177 sounds right, but I wouldn't take it down for loctite, just if oiling. IIRC the spec on the TTY bolt is something like 90ft/lbs and 1/2 turn or 137ft/lbs and 1/4 turn. Either way I bet you will be around 180ft/lbs when done. If this wasn't such a critical component to timing I would say run it, but it is, so I would get the correct parts if you can.
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Ignore the PM I just sent haha
It is actually the new OEM bolt, maybe it actually helps with eliminating movement in the pulley? Either way, I need to get this back running pretty soon, so I think I will run this bolt, at 177
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I was hoping to get the engine fully bolted in yesterday, but too much running around picking up misc things and my driveway turning to black ice/sun going down around 4:30 meant that didn't quite happen.
Finished the new mount and bracket though and I'm happy with how they turned out. Subframe notched and filled back in, everything coated in zero rust. My welds are slowly getting better, but it's tough on 1/4" and 3/8" plate with my 110V mig. I should've turned the wire feed speed down even further, but it was already at 20/100 haha
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5125/5308213639_6862fdaf4c_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5287/5308215217_1e6778ac76_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5086/5308805604_0e483ea7af_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5308218241_4e1246663a_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5308219753_cfcfa23eb3_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5308221203_e00979795e_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5308223589_3d1a7be3fc_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5004/5308224515_3198f03718_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5041/5308814600_bffe0e8aaf_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5162/5308819782_d79aef05d7_z.jpg)
And one random pic of my cars ass beside my Eddy's Jetta :)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5308226971_162450043d_z.jpg)
Insurance on my spare vehicle runs out on Jan 5 and I don't want to insure it again. So, I don't have much time left. Fortunately I've got 3 days off between now and then (Sat, Sun, Tues) to get it all tied up. I started writing down a list of everything I need to do before it's running again, here's what I've got so far. There will probably be more!
-Install clutch/tranny
-Drop engine back in car
-Intercooler/plumbing
-Make custom downpipe
-Weld up exhaust pipe between turbo's once I know it will all fit for sure!
-Oil feed lines
-Get K24 oil return line made
-Make a line from my K14 wastegate to the intermediate charge pipe
-Set up temporary boost gauge off of intermediate charge pipe (not urgent)
-Set up my oil pressure gauge
-Set up oil temp gauge
-Remake hood release cable
-Put instrument stalks back on and put some of the interior back in
-Cross my fingers and hope that it all goes back together well!
I think it's a lot to do in 3 days of work, but should be possible! Hopefully no more big hurdles
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i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
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Please send me a cardboard version of your engine mount. I think that mount would work with MK2 and VNT :D If yours fails I would even weld you up one for the cardboard and angles that you give me to do it.
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i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
In no way do I think I'm a great welder. However, to make up for quality, I just applied the quantity theory :)
Where it's triangulated at the motor, I have zero worries about strength. Where I'm going to the bracket that bolts up however, I was a little more careful. I ran multiple root welds holding it all together, it's not just one on the top and one on the bottom. There was about a 3/8" or 1/2" gap between the bottom gusset and the 3/8" plate and both sides of that were root welded, another weld to tie those two together and then a wide 4th bead on top that I ground off.
I would've liked to make it beefier, but I had to duck under the turbo outlet and I'm also very close to laying it on the CV, so I didn't have much to work with
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I'm not the best welder either, but I know when I've got a good weld when it sounds like bacon cooking and the weld is almost laying flat. It looks like the speed is too fast and or the heat is not hot/high enough.
My 2 cents.
The project looks good so far. I'm jealous of the turbos :o 8).
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Ive always wondered how well a welder would work running on 110v. In my experience with mig, since I am a welder by trade, the best sound you can get when your laying a bead sounds almost like a zipper being undone.
As for your welds, they should be fine. As long as you have done more then one past, getting good penatration, all the way down through the bottom. And the best way to tell if your top pass is to cold is to check for "cold lap", best way to check for this is to run your fingernail from one side to the other and see if there is anything that your nail catches under.
I understand that welding 3/8 plate with 110v power supply isnt the easiest either :P
looks good though, cant wait to see it done.
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when it sounds like bacon
bacon.
is there nothing it cant do? :D
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i dont want to criticize your fabrication skills, but are the welds good enough on that motor mount? cause that is the mount with the most load on it.
i think i would have made the actual piece that connects to the rubber mount, i think i would have made it one piece with the block mount plate.. instead of welding a triangle to the mount pad, then the end of the mount to the triangle?
idk, it may work fine. but the welds look a little cold..
In no way do I think I'm a great welder. However, to make up for quality, I just applied the quantity theory :)
Where it's triangulated at the motor, I have zero worries about strength. Where I'm going to the bracket that bolts up however, I was a little more careful. I ran multiple root welds holding it all together, it's not just one on the top and one on the bottom. There was about a 3/8" or 1/2" gap between the bottom gusset and the 3/8" plate and both sides of that were root welded, another weld to tie those two together and then a wide 4th bead on top that I ground off.
I would've liked to make it beefier, but I had to duck under the turbo outlet and I'm also very close to laying it on the CV, so I didn't have much to work with
i would have made the plate that bolts to the engine, one piece like you did, and i would have madr the top plate that bolts to the mount another single piece, and then used a triangulated brace to tie them together..
we will see how it works tho. im about to build a similar motor mount. its going to be based off the mk2/3 VNT mount being offered for WAY TOO MUCH MONEY in the vendors section.. i really like the design of that one.
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Things went slightly sour with the amount of work that had to be done and the deadline, which is today.
The IC plumbing isn't finished (although its very close) the holes on the rear mount dont like up quite right and we lack a big enough drill bit to fix them. Also the down pipe is in question as far as i know. I doubt Matt will be making too much of an appearance on the forum until he has sorted things.
The engine is in it's just all the details that need to be taken care of.
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Ga'ah! I'll have to insure the spare vehicle again. Insurance runs out on the 5th and my list of things still to do was growing almost as quickly as I was crossing things off. I don't work tomorrow, so work will be done then. Still haven't made the downpipe and I'll have to sheild it well from the shifter cables somehow. Probably a combination of header wrap and that flexible heat shielding.
Also might need to buy some 90deg silicone couplers as I can't find the ones I should have are :(
I haven't been taking pics, working nearly dawn till dusk every day I have off. Pics will come later on though
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Also might need to buy some 90deg silicone couplers as I can't find the ones I should have are :(
Go to a Semi truck supplie store and see if they have any coolant hose (or anything the is the size you need) i got a couple 2" peices of rad hose that had some 90s in them that worked perfect. A hell of a lot cheaper to.
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Go to a Semi truck supplie store and see if they have any coolant hose (or anything the is the size you need) i got a couple 2" peices of rad hose that had some 90s in them that worked perfect. A hell of a lot cheaper to.
Ooh, that's a good idea! I'll have to look into that. There's an auto parts store near where I work that has lots of hose hanging up on their wall, might see something that will work nicely for me. 2 of the 3 are for my intake anyway, so they don't need to be incredibly robust.
Progress hasn't gone as quickly as I hoped, the plan was to have the car insured right now. For a while the to-do list was growing quicker than it was getting checked off, but I'm on the home straight now. I expect that this time next week it will be driving.
One thing that has me stumped is the intermediate charge pipe again. It's pretty tight in there and my aluminum pipe I have intended for it won't fit. Possibly with some cutting/welding, but I don't have easy access to tig. Here are some pictures, any suggestions on how to tie them together? I think making one out of mild steel might be my best option at this point. I would look into a radiator hose, but it'll get quite hot and I don't think rubber will stay on very well. Pics below...
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5326428200_be20f0bf9d_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5326429660_86cf3a83b7_z.jpg)
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a couple 90* couplers might do the trick, or a steel pipe could be made up.
nothing wrong with mild steel, all of my intake will be mild steel painted on the inside.
-Owen
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whats the benefit of painting the inside of the charge piping? its going to be covered in oil anyways most likely..
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Reduces the likleyhood of rust issues.
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the charge piping on my car will NEVER RUST. lol.. its painted cat yellow on the outside, and painted black from oil on the inside..
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yea i would just use like 2.5" mandrel bent steel like you guys used on ed's dp, that would be no problem to cut and weld into any shape you need.
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yea i would just use like 2.5" mandrel bent steel like you guys used on ed's dp, that would be no problem to cut and weld into any shape you need.
I think this is what's going to happen. I was searching for a mandrel donut I could get quickly, but came up with nothing locally. It's really tight back there, but I can get a 2" mandrel pipe with 3" radius, which should be tight enough.
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yea, i know dynomax does make those donuts but in not sure what the part numbers are. If you could get a part number im sure lordco could order you one, or even canadian tire. Ill see what I can find
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Hmm.. hooray for lordco guys. I called and talked to one person, he wasn't sure what a donut was. So, after work, I stopped by and talked to a different guy who said they don't carry them.
I'll just head in after work today and ask to see the dynomax catalog and give them a part number
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yea i would just use like 2.5" mandrel bent steel like you guys used on ed's dp, that would be no problem to cut and weld into any shape you need.
I think this is what's going to happen. I was searching for a mandrel donut I could get quickly, but came up with nothing locally. It's really tight back there, but I can get a 2" mandrel pipe with 3" radius, which should be tight enough.
and that's what did happen!
all matt's handy work. I take absolutely no credit other than the photo credit :P of which matt will upload better ones not taken with a phone haha
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0123.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0120.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0121.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/IMAG0119.jpg)
we used an interesting header paint we cured with a blow torch. it looked almost exactly like diesel soot.
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Where are you guys getting the flages your using for the downpipe? is there anyone local
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http://weirtech.ca/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=13_28&products_id=178
That is one place and just a link...search the site a little and they pretty much have everything you need to build your exhaust.
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The turbo outlet to downpipe I got from Lordco. It's in their Vibrant Performance as a T4 inlet flange I believe. Just measure your bolts and check the dimensions.
For the header flange, I got it through Car Parts at KMS Tools. If you need some of those and are having trouble finding them, let me know and I'll get some sent up your way! Lordco should be able to get those as well
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Okay ill look into that. Start this thing already man!!! :P
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So... um... FML. Started filling it up with water to check for leaks and... voila. A leak. Looks like it's coming from the flange on the front of my head.. no problem, I expected one of those flanges would leak for sure.
Wait a second... that's not leaking from the flange! It's flooding out right at my head gasket! I pulled the head flange off to be 100% sure, and yep, water is literally pouring out of my head gasket. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the HG has a hole drilled for a water port that my head doesn't have and the drilled hole actually goes outside the head casting.
*Insert a few words here that are not appreciated on this forum... *
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5009/5367872948_3194df6a20_b.jpg)
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is your motor mech or hydro lifters?
if it is a mech head, and you have a hydro headgasket there is a hole that hits the waterjacket and is open outside the head(its the second oil drain passage on the gasket)
-Owen
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Hydro lifters. To my knowledge, it's a bone stock, never been pulled apart '94 AAZ.
What you described sounds exactly like what's happening though. What gasket would you run with a mech head? Is there a MLS option for that?
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no stock MLS for a mech motor.
you can block the water passages that meet the second oil drain on the hydro gasket and use it on a mech motor though.
unfortunately you need to pull the head, and lay the gasket against it and the block to see what the issue is.
you should also do this with the new gasket to make sure you dont run into this issue again(I actually do this with all headgaskets, as I have run into the wrong one being given to me by parts suppliers often)
are you sure that the gasket is the right one for your motor?
-Owen
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Yeah, I'll definitely do that with the new head gasket I get. I'm wondering if the parts store I got the HG from has a 1.6 listed for my car instead of a 1.9?
My head looks exactly like this one.. http://www.passat-parts.com/AAZCompleteHead.htm but my gasket seems to have holes for 3 oil drains(?) instead of just two.. do any of the 1.6 engines have 3 oil drains?
And I can't find the packaging for my HG anywhere, must've thrown it out. My receipt doesn't show the manufacturer's part number either, just the part # for my parts store
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nope, not that I know of.
the 1.6 hydro and 1.9 have nearly identical gaskets, the only difference(other than material) is the steam holes between the cylinders.
it may be that they gave you a gasser gasket, many gassers use a MLS gasket.
perhaps they gave you an ABA gasket?
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Heh... so I put the gasket on upside down :-\
New gasket is back on though, everything's back together except for the timing belt which I'll finish up tonight after dinner
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good to hear you got it sorted, its always little details like that that take the longest on these projects
-Owen
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Do the gaskets not have a "this side up" warning to go by matt? Lol
Glas it was something as simple as that :) what's an ETA on a running video?? Lol
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most, if not all VW head gaskets are marked with OBEN (top) on the tab that has the notches in it..
every one ive ever seen atleast.. even the crappy cheapo gaskets.
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Uhh, trivia question for you guys.
Everything's hooked up, ready to turn the key. When I do, a nice loud click from the starter solenoid, but no chugging starter.
I've got power from the battery to the solenoid and if I jump with a wire from the solenoid positive to the trigger wire, it still just clicks, doesn't turn over.
What could this be? Is a faulty solenoid or starter the only possibility? Any way of telling which of the two it is?
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Yeah, you can jump a wire directly to the starter motor and see if it spins. You can see the short wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor and that's where you put the jumper wire to. Just make sure the car is in neutral and parking brake is on!
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could be alot of things, best way to figure it out is to take it off the car and bench test it.
if it spins freely on the bench then the bushing in the trans is buggered, if it just clicks its probably the solenoid.
if it is the solenoid, you can pull it apart and see what is wrong pretty easily(looks bad when they are bad)
that said, it could be a bad motor too...
the other way to test for a bad solenoid is to energize it and test for continuity across the power lugs(or if it is still installed and wired up, test for power on the starter side of the solenoid)
-Owen
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edit- I read your post too fast; you'll need to start checking with a multimeter, could be either.
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Yeah, you can jump a wire directly to the starter motor and see if it spins. You can see the short wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter motor and that's where you put the jumper wire to. Just make sure the car is in neutral and parking brake is on!
The bottom of the 3 bolts that has the braided bit that goes to the starter motor? Tried jumping that and it just sparked and cracked loudly
I'm going to pull it off and bench test it now
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Heh... well I think I found my problem. This is what it looked like when I pulled it apart. None of the 3 small gears were on the pins they're supposed to be on
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5388168443_a88af3cf93_z.jpg)
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Well, that was one of the nicer gear reduction starters. Looks like you need a starter.
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Got a new starter, swapped it in.
Lovely thing happens now though, when I connect the battery, without the key even near the ignition, the tail lights come on. And my solenoid trigger wire is now constant 12V. And some relays go trippy under my dash when I put the key in. Yay.
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I know one time when I had my taillight out when I was changing the bulbs I put the wiring harnesses onto the wrong spots when I put them back in. This changed pretty much all the switched 12v in my car to constant 12v and made my headlights and tailights stay on. It was a weird thing to figure out and killed me for a few hours. If you had your taillights out maybe check this?
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I never touched the taillights.. it's something along those lines though. A circuit is getting excited that shouldn't be... I just have no idea where from :(
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Whats the condition of the Ign. Swt.
Its a Corrado right. Let me guess, the fuse box has done whats called the belly flop. Corrados are known for their electrical problems.
Unplug the Ign. Swt. and try hot wiring it and see if that fixes it?
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Ign switch is brand new. I had the column pulled apart anyway, so I threw a brand new OEM switch in. Unplugging it still leaves the taillights on
When I jump the solenoid straight from the starter, it doesn't even click anymore. For a while, the starter solenoid wire was giving me 12V any time the battery was connected, so that may have fried the starter solenoid...
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Check the condition of relay posision #4 controll #18. Its the X realy or load reduction relay. Maybe it went tits up.
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So if the starter signal is hot at all times when the battery is connected then the starter should be energized and turning over right?
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So if the starter signal is hot at all times when the battery is connected then the starter should be energized and turning over right?
Starter signal isn't hot anymore and noting turned over. I'm pretty tired right now though, I'm going to clean up outside and leave it until I can think more clearly.
I thought someone else needed my back up vehicle, but it turns out they can't even drive in Canada, so I don't have quite as much pressure right now
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It lives :)
Lots of white smoke, I'll have to advance the timing a bit. Gonna put it's face back on and drive it up and down my back lane!
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hooray!
thats such a good feeling isn't it?
-Owen
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Haha yes, feels very good to drive it again and have my first engine rebuild sputter to life!
P/S wasn't working on that short drive, not sure why, but that's minor in the large scheme. Tuesday I'll spend getting the timing set right, readjust my shifter, get it through AirCare (smog) and other misc things.
Going away with SmokeyEddy for a few days starting Thursday, then it'll be back to my daily when I get home from that!
Oh how I've missed you, dear Corrado! :P
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How did you do your oil pressure and return lines to your second turbo? are they linked to the k14 or separate? This is one thing Im not sure on.
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How did you do your oil pressure and return lines to your second turbo? are they linked to the k14 or separate? This is one thing Im not sure on.
For oil feed, I got a banjo bolt off my flange and welded a -4 JIC fitting to it. Also got turbo to JIC fittings for the oil feed on both turbos. Between that, I got some push on hose rated for 150*C at 250psi. Nice and flexible, no need to crimp. I was thinking of going with stainless, but this was easier.
For the return, I welded a -8 JIC male fitting into my oil pan and got a 1/2" NPT flange for the turbo, then ran the same push on hose between the two. I'll take pics of it all soon
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Okay awsome, I think Ill im going to go with stainless braided line as long as it isnt too exspencive, Which im sure it will be.
Have you heard anything about a "break-in" process for the vw diesels? I know my friend just build a chevy 350 and as soon as he turned it on he was told to rev it at 2000 for 20 mins. Although, that is a gas engine, and im sure diesels are different. But there has to be something along those lines.
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I assembled the piston rings in dry.
Figure that your going to prime/turn over the engine more than once tring to start it and priming the pump.
By the time it fire up, they are good and lubed.
Many may say different but to each his own.
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[quote I know my friend just build a chevy 350 and as soon as he turned it on he was told to rev it at 2000 for 20 mins.][/quote]
This procedure is used when you install a new cam and lifters. It allows splash oil to keep the cam lubed during break-in.
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I was assembling the engine in my carport and not running it right away, so I coated the cylinder walls with 2 stroke oil during assembly.
As far as break in goes, I'll do the typical lots of varying loads/rpm's. Boost will be at 20psi, but fueling won't be high enough to burn all of that air. I'm not planning on going nuts on the engine, mostly moderate driving avoiding excessive idling. WOT redline runs would make me very nervous on a newly rebuilt engine. There are claims that if you don't go HARD on the engine right away, the rings will never seat properly, but at some point, each of our engines rolled brand new off the lot in the hands of someone who had no clue how to break an engine in. Every one of those rings seated just fine, so I won't be too anal about the break in.
I've got a block heater now and particularly for the first few days, I'll try to plug it in for as long as possible before starting it so I don't have to idle it up to temp
From what I've heard, staying at a constant rpm, particularly with little load is a bad way of breaking it in, so that I will definitely avoid.
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I think to get it going and down the road as soon as it starts is key. I thought I burnt some oil on mine, but now see it was just a leak. I never really used more than 8oz of oil this entire 10,000 miles. I primed the oil system, filled the coolant, ran 2 full block heater cycles and did final torque on the head all before the engine cranked over. I let it idle long enough to build oil pressure and went down the road with a guy following just in case. For the first 100 miles I didn't let the RPMs stay constant. At stop lights I would put it in N and slowly rev the engine just so it wouldn't stay in one spot. Driving down the road I would stay mainly in 3rd and go from about 20mph to 60mph. I let people pass as I bet it would be annoying to get to 60 let off and let the rings pull on decel then get to 20 and steady pull to 60 and do it over again. When I got to the bottom I would cycle between 20 and 30 to let them pass.
After the first 100 I did the same only in 4th and only about 45 to 60. Changed the filter after 20min engine running. Did full oil changes after 100 and 1,000 and 4,000 total miles.
Yep it is a lot, but I have no internal engine problems and my car sat unplugged for a weekend in 0F weather and still started no problem. I haven't done compression checks, but I would guess my rings are seated. I would do it again if I do another, it is a lot easier than tearing one down and honing/rering if the rings don't seat :D
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Got a TOP for the day and drove it. I don't have the fuel turned up very high so I don't go nuts while it's breaking in, but even so it builds boost FAST! I was at 15psi at around 1800rpm and EGT's only 800*F. With more fuel, I could probably hit 20psi at 1800rpm. Coasting at 3k rpm, it's sitting at about 4psi which is actually higher than with just my old K14. I went from 4psi to 20psi about as fast as I put my foot to the floor from 3000rpm. Loud too... the big turbo almost sounds like a blow off valve as it coasts back down...
Unfortunately my turbo drain is leaking, along with my oil pan gasket and somehow my steering rack was loose! As in not bolted tight to the subframe kind of loose. I'm going away for a few days after tomorrow, but Wed is my next day at work after that and I'll be driving the Corrado by then :)
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I assembled the piston rings in dry.
Figure that your going to prime/turn over the engine more than once tring to start it and priming the pump.
By the time it fire up, they are good and lubed.
Many may say different but to each his own.
actually blake told me top fuelers assemble dry as well, and he recommended i use total seals's quick seat, its some powder u rub on the cylinder walls after u clean them spotless, looks like graphite powder to me. but really like you are saying, by the time the engine actually starts for the first time, theres going to be oil all over place.
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I'm not surprised the top fuel guys assemble them dry or even with graphite powder... those engines only live a few runs, so they want to break them in as quickly as possible.
Took a short video this morning of the engine's second start! I had it plugged into the block heater for about 2hrs before that, but otherwise the engine was cold, with the gasser starter and the key had been turned long enough that the glow plugs weren't even hot anymore. Still below 0*C at that point as well
I can definitely drop the compression ratio further! :D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/5408826391/
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so nice a quiet. Spins slower than what my diesel starter does. I don't know what it would do on mine, but great deal getting it going.
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My engine has always seemed to be quieter at idle than most IDI's I've heard... makes itself known under load though!
I'm not really sure why, although idling it at 550rpm probably helps. I've never timed it with a dial indicator, so maybe I just run it fairly retarded
That's weird that your starter spins slower than mine... a 1.7kW starter should spin it up pretty quickly
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Whats with the oil light blinking on the dash. Do you have a bad sensor?
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I'm not actually sure why that oil light is blinking. Particularly without the buzzer going off. That gauge I had sitting on my valve cover was for oil pressure and my oil pressure is good. The wire from the sensor on the head and the wire from the sensor on the filter housing are both connected to the sensor on the filter housing, so that might have something to do with it, although that doesn't make complete sense.
Either way, I know my oil pressure is good and will soon be installing a permanent gauge to keep my eye on it. I pulled the wires off the filter sensor and the buzzer went off right away, so I know that circuit still works fine
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wow! Theres no snow on the ground! I wanna be there! :o
What we do for the cylinders on a rebuild at the machine shop I'm at: I spread a few drops of oil around the top of the cylinder-and also squirt a couple of drops on the skirts. Dry rings are a nice thought-but you still need some oil for them to seal on-and dry-scuffed piston skirts on start up suck--and CAN happen.
Our tests with the Total Seal's "magic dust" haven't been good. A motor we're in quite often (a 519 Ford drag motor-1000hp before the 3 stages of nitrous :o ) been thru it 3 times-twice I did the powder on the walls-and both times it smoked like a *** on the dyno-once it cleared up fairly quick-the other didn't clear till after a bunch of pulls. It didnt smoke the other time-nor do we have engines normal smoke.
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I got it through Air Care (our smog testing in BC).. wasn't all that low.. 20% opacity, max allowable is 30. Probably because my piston rings haven't seated.
I'm so nervous driving it around though... every little noise I hear makes me paranoid! It was fine at first, but my downpipe seems to have moved somehow and is now hitting my steering rack at idle. Once I'm off idle, it's fine which is a bit odd. Also if I hit a bump in the road or hard shift etc, it hits the steering rack. Well, I'm 95% sure that's what that noise is. That 5% of doubt is driving me nuts though :P
I am having one significant problem that I'm hoping to get some insight to.
If I turn my steering wheel hard, it will basically have 60-80deg of play in it. It doesn't happen if I'm turning the steering wheel softly, only if I jolt it or dive in to take a corner hard. At first I thought my steering rack was loose on the subframe, but that's not actually it. If I put the car on jack stands, I can turn the wheels left and right a bit and feel what almost seems like slipping on a very worn out rack and pinion.
I replaced my steering column right down to where it bolts into the steering rack, so one possibility is that it's actually slipping where the steering column bolts onto the rack, although I've got that very tight and can't see how it could be slipping. the only other alternative I see is that something is happening inside the steering rack.
Does this sound like a bad rack? It's a ZF rack with unknown history. Not the original one from the car, because it was added when stepping up to the "plus" suspension for G60 Corrado's.
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Got about 1000km on the engine now, everything feels good!
Two problems I've got right now though
My boost gauge decided it didn't want to work anymore, so I drove without one for a while. I plumbed in a temporary mechanical gauge (that will be used to keep an eye on the intermediate charge pipe pressure, make sure the wastegates are working properly.
I don't think I'm making boost as quickly now as I was before. Also, when I pull my intake tube off, everything's coated with oil in there. My PCV isn't connected to the intake, so it's not coming from there.
Someone I talked to today at a small car meet said that my K14 pulling a vacuum before the K24 spools up will wreck a seal in it, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Has anyone ever heard of such a problem? I would more expect it to be just a bad oil seal in the K24, and I'd need to rebuild that. I'm consuming very little oil; I can't tell a difference in the last 500km, so it's not burning all that much, but the inside of my intake and compressor housings are well lubricated!
Second problem is that my oil pressure gauge has decided to start leaking.. or more specifically where the thin hose goes into the fitting on the back.
I used one of the little plastic tubing kits from Lordco as I couldn't find any fitting that would thread onto my gauge. Is there any better solution? I might take the gauge off temporarily, but don't want to go too long without an oil pressure gauge...
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my $.02 for an oil pressure gauge. I've tested several electric gauges and I trust a new VDO as much as a mechanical. They are very accurate. I tried a stewart warner - this one would jump around and not show and accurate pressure and similar results with autometer. Mind you I've been testing in -20° weather as well.
Nice build. Thanks for all the posts, keeping informed.
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Got about 1000km on the engine now, everything feels good!
Two problems I've got right now though
My boost gauge decided it didn't want to work anymore, so I drove without one for a while. I plumbed in a temporary mechanical gauge (that will be used to keep an eye on the intermediate charge pipe pressure, make sure the wastegates are working properly.
I don't think I'm making boost as quickly now as I was before. Also, when I pull my intake tube off, everything's coated with oil in there. My PCV isn't connected to the intake, so it's not coming from there.
Someone I talked to today at a small car meet said that my K14 pulling a vacuum before the K24 spools up will wreck a seal in it, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Has anyone ever heard of such a problem? I would more expect it to be just a bad oil seal in the K24, and I'd need to rebuild that. I'm consuming very little oil; I can't tell a difference in the last 500km, so it's not burning all that much, but the inside of my intake and compressor housings are well lubricated!
Second problem is that my oil pressure gauge has decided to start leaking.. or more specifically where the thin hose goes into the fitting on the back.
I used one of the little plastic tubing kits from Lordco as I couldn't find any fitting that would thread onto my gauge. Is there any better solution? I might take the gauge off temporarily, but don't want to go too long without an oil pressure gauge...
My local crappy tire sells copper tubing kits for this purpose. Same size tubing as the plastic ones. Im pretty sure the manufacturer is EQUIS, or what ever it is. The local napa here also has them in the same brand. If you cant find them let me know and I can grab you one.
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Okay, so I got bored today... strange things sometimes happen when I'm bored. Fortunately, a good strange thing happened this time.
I decided to make a spreadsheet where I could input various info about an engine for ever few hundred rpm and it would calculate power/torque and graph it. So, basically the relevant stuff on not2fast.com, but every 500rpm and a dyno plot of it! Turned out kinda cool. It'll be interesting to see how well this actually lines up once I get the engine ready for a dyno
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3655/5698058177_8b0d89f5a4_b.jpg)
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wow that is definatley cool, 283 foot pounds of torque would be quite the upgrade. It will be interesting to see how acurate this is compaired to a dyno reading.
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I'm not actually sure why that oil light is blinking. Particularly without the buzzer going off. That gauge I had sitting on my valve cover was for oil pressure and my oil pressure is good. The wire from the sensor on the head and the wire from the sensor on the filter housing are both connected to the sensor on the filter housing, so that might have something to do with it, although that doesn't make complete sense.
Either way, I know my oil pressure is good and will soon be installing a permanent gauge to keep my eye on it. I pulled the wires off the filter sensor and the buzzer went off right away, so I know that circuit still works fine
Are you still having this problem? Its the same thing im dealing with too. I have an actuall oil pressure gauge that is ready really good oil pressure but the light in the cluster just keeps blinking for me. Im thinking it either has something to do with the new cluster or my sensor died somehow when I wasnt in use.
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Are you still having this problem? Its the same thing im dealing with too. I have an actuall oil pressure gauge that is ready really good oil pressure but the light in the cluster just keeps blinking for me. Im thinking it either has something to do with the new cluster or my sensor died somehow when I wasnt in use.
Haha, actually no, I haven't fixed it yet. The simple solution would simply be grounding the wire that went to the switch in the head. Either that or somehow getting a second pressure switch hooked up if you want to retain the OEM functionality
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Alright. Starting the second stage of this build now.
A few too many things were rushed getting it back together and I drove it for about 5000km after the rebuild/compound setup, but without my real pump mods, without my intercooler plumbed etc. Basically the same as it was before, except less turbo lag and far more scream. I was having some issues and didn't want to deal with it all right away, so I bought a truck and pulled it off the road. Things are starting to happen again. Updates will probably be slow but hopefully steady
The new to-do list, in no particular order. I'll hopefully add to it as I go along
-Clean/install the rest of my interior. Still a little rough but definitely looks nicer than ever before. Did that Sunday, but I always like to start a to-do list with something crossed off. Accomplishment makes me feel special.
-Make mounts for new rad and install new radiator and custom plumbing
-Custom intake manifold. I've got an idea in mind that could work quite well in theory. Just gotta get around to making it.
-Install fan wiring harness. I pulled a standalone harness from a mk3 that I'll use in place of the rats nest that occupied the front of my engine bay before
-Delete my friggen ABS. Working on my car yesterday, it tried to light itself on fire. It's overcomplicated, unnecessary and coming out soon.
-Plumb the intercooler. It's tight in there and I'm going to run some funky stuff. It'll be welded mild steel insead of aluminum with silicone couplers everywhere. Stronger, more reliable and easier to snake around the engine bay.
-Run an external wastegate off my exhaust manifold and a very unique combination of boost controllers. Yes, plural. You'll see.
-Press in new wheel bearings and swap my knuckles out. Just gotta find where I put the wheel bearings I bought for it about 2 months ago.. :/
-Get my pump modified a little (lot) more. I'm interested to see for one thing how much power I can pull off of a stock 9mm AAZ pump. I like to think I have an idea of what's going on in there and can hopefully pull out everything it's got.
-Wire up ecode lights. Corrado N/A lights are weak enough on their own but my broken adjusters giving it a lazy eye just made it worse. Oh, and I need to make some new tabs for my lights as well
-Get my Passat TDI cluster working. I tossed around the idea of making various custom gauge faces but I think I'll scrap that and just convert the tach for my TDI cluster. Probably just run a Dakota Digital DSL1 converter.
-Possibly make a rear strut bar. Someday I'll make one.
-Probably a few more things I'm forgetting right now
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Yesterday I had the day off work and some good weather. The pile of interior pieces I hadn't bothered to actually put back in yet was bothering me and I'm not sure how well the good weather will stay, so I tore everything out, cleaned it and put it back in. Didn't take many pictures as I didn't plan on writing up about it, but I may as well.
Most of the interior is actually in pretty good condition. Some leather peeling off the rear door cards and C pillars not fitting great, but I love a black interior and the leather is quite a nice addition. It definitely looks better all together. Not complete, but getting there anyway
While I was working on it though, there was a funny smell. At first I figured it was either from the vinyl/leather cleaners I was using or from my next door neighbour cleaning. About 15min after I first noticed the smell, however, I saw some smoke coming out of my engine bay. It was the first time I've had the battery hooked up in a while, so I ran out and pulled the battery terminal off.
Turns out my ABS pressure pump tried to commit suicide. That's not something to mess around with and I've wanted to get rid of the ABS anyway, so that added a non abs swap to my list.
I'll just be running a full B3 passat setup with a 22mm master. Corrado's came with 3 channel ABS, so just one line to the rear where as the Passat master cylinder has 2 lines for the rear. I'm not sure if I'm going to cap one port and run a proportioning valve or run a second rear line the whole way back. I'm leaning towards the single rear, partly because I can get an adjustable proportioning valve through work and have full easy adjustment of my braking bias. Either way, the ABS unit will soon be history.
Pile of interior trim
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6036/6209670289_6c25aa035f.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209670289/)
DSCF0138 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209670289/) by Pursuit_01 (http://www.flickr.com/people/35403828@N04/), on Flickr
2 quick shots of the interior
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6232/6210187394_d19ed72b67.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6210187394/)
DSCF0140 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6210187394/) by Pursuit_01 (http://www.flickr.com/people/35403828@N04/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6066/6209675175_6148c719b4.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209675175/)
DSCF0141 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209675175/) by Pursuit_01 (http://www.flickr.com/people/35403828@N04/), on Flickr
And, 2 pictures around my exhaust manifold in case I forget. I'll need them to see where I'll be tucking my external wastegate
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6236/6209664827_95e553049c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209664827/)
DSCF0111 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209664827/) by Pursuit_01 (http://www.flickr.com/people/35403828@N04/), on Flickr
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6107/6209662269_3082427b5a.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209662269/)
DSCF0110 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/35403828@N04/6209662269/) by Pursuit_01 (http://www.flickr.com/people/35403828@N04/), on Flickr
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After too much being lazy, I got some actual work done on the car today. I've done a bunch of wiring and related crap, but that's all boring. This is cooler.
First thing is I left my ignition on for an hour or so while working on the car one day. To my surprise, some smoke started pouring up from the engine bay. It turns out that part of the ABS pump is always running when the ignition is on? Well anyway, my ABS system won't build pressure any more. That's alright though, I wanted to get rid of it anyway.
Corrado's came with 02A's with a hydraulic clutch on them. Apparently non ABS passats had a bracket that held the clutch master, fluid reservoir and booster. I tried to find one of these, but had no luck. So, I bought a mk2 golf booster/master and just started taking things apart.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1179.jpg)
I thought I took a pic of the ABS master, but apparently not. It had a black bracket that bolts through the firewall and holds the clutch master as well. Here's a photo of the ABS bracket on the left, non ABS from the golf's booster on the right. The studs on the top are what go into the firewall and the bolt holes sitting down on the floor are where it's bolted to the ABS master and booster. Unfortunately, the ABS master had 3 holes, the booster had 4, so it wouldn't all bolt up nicely
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1181.jpg)
Huh. Oh well. I just grabbed the grinder instead, cut the one in half, mocked them up on the firewall and welded it back together. Voila.
I'll sand blast that down at work one day soon, respray it and just leave it at that. It's nice and strong and sits perfectly square against the firewall.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1185.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1189.jpg)
Quick photo first of the booster just sitting in the engine bay, nothing's actually bolted in and second of what will probably be my clutch reservoir. Mini HVLP paint pot and a barbed fitting. A quick bracket holding that off of the coolant bottle bracket and it should work just fine!
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1192.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1196.jpg)
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Next job was starting an intake manifold. We all know the stock manifold sucks... well, for our intentions at least. It flows all 70 some odd horsepower these engines were designed for just fine, but what's the fun in that?
I searched and found a thread by ROR not long ago making an intake for himself that turned out awesome! I'm somewhat copying that design, but attempting to make it tapered. I took a piece of 3" aluminum tubing and cut an angled slot out of it. Then I grabbed some T bolt clamps (hose clamps exploded too easily) and slowly/tediously tapered the aluminum tube down into a cone. The first picture is before I ran the clamps over it. After that picture, I cut the taper out even further. In retrospect, I should've tapered both cuts instead of one still being parallel to the tube, but that's not a big deal. It won't all be my final slit between the two plenums anyway.
The slit is still open on one end, but that won't matter. I'll cut a new one once it's welded up.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1199.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1200.jpg)
I had some low temp aluminum soldering rods that according to the internets are amazing. I figured I'd run some beautiful beads with those rods and everything would be held together wonderfully! Errr... not quite. I couldn't get them to stick to anything. It just sat as a glob of molten rod on top of the metal. Looks like I'll be buying a spool of alum wire and borrowing some pure aargon. I've only tigged once before, so I think migging it together will turn out better.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1201.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1202.jpg)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/tetelestia2/DSCF1203.jpg)
Hopefully more to come later this week!
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I much prefer mig welding ali to tig welding it. Lots of arguments rage but basically if you can mig better than you can tig then you will do a better weld with the mig.
I often mig welded 5mm thick ali and its beautiful, thinner stuff is harder, but as with everything, practice makes perfect.
I run a 180amp Lincoln welder and it is fine on both steel and ali, ( only problem is that the duty cycle is a little low when going for it)
Make sure the wire speed is turned up and that you get the next size tip for the wire you are using. i.e here in the UK i use a 1.2mm tip on 1mm wire, ali mig wire likes a little 'clearance'
Keep it up, i have just read this thread from start to finish.
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On vanagons, the clutch and brake systems share the brake fluid reservoir. There is a small nipple poking off the side of it that runs the fluid down to the clutch. You might be able to fit a vanagon reservoir to your master cyl or use a vanagon master cyl and dispense with the clutch reservoir.
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Looks great, try some jb weld haha