Crap, one flywheel bolt is stripped
I had my torque wrench on the crankshaft nose bolt to keep the engine from turning, turned the torque up on it so it wouldn't click and tried cracking this last flywheel bolt. Well, the torque wrench did click and my other hand slipped, stripping the head on the bolt. Checked the torque wrench and I had it set to just shy of 130ft lbs. That sucker is on there pretty good... I threw the impact back on it again but it just slipped and rounded the bolt head
I've got very limited tools where I am right now, so I might have to drive 45min away and just weld a socket to the end of the bolt. That should do it :/
How big is the bolt? You can get a Irwin bolt and nut remover and it takes stuff like that off like a joke.
17mm. I'm going to go pick one of those up and give it a shot, I know they make one specifically for a 17mm bolt. I've used them before but haven't been all that impressed so far
Best thing I've found for removing broken bolts is to just drill it out and re-tap it. I've tried many removal tools, including some expensive ones, and the most reliable way is to just carefully drill and thread chase out the remnants. Broken extractors in the hole are 10 times harder to remove than the original bolt. Ask me how I know.
Welding would be good too if there's a big enough head to weld to.
I would try to weld and impact gun if possible. Or drill off the head only and then take off your flywheel. Then you would have more there to weld, bolt extract, or whatever you choose to do.
I would try to weld and impact gun if possible.
Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. We've got a welder in the back at work, so I'll just go in early tomorrow, weld a socket on and hit it with a proper impact... I'll call it product testing (I work at a tool store
) No screwing around with drilling or any form of extractor
After screwing around with that for a while, I went to my parents house and got started on cleaning up the wiring. It's a combination of OEM wiring from the Corrado, misc hockey taped wiring from the swap and stuff I ran later on, so it's all a bit ugly. Nothing's going to be extended, it's not running through my frame rails, I just want it to look prettier. Taking a look at Ed's car when we pulled my motor made me want to even more. I only got about 3 hours of work in, all of which sitting in gravel while getting rained on, but got through a good chunk of it. Still needs a lot of work, but I think it'll look alright once I've got everything back in. Better than before for sure
Also going to fix that rust on my battery tray.. I'll shoot it with some white Zero Rust and see how well the colour matches. I've got some proper mixed paint at home anyway if it's too far off. It is the battery tray in my engine bay though, there are worse things than the shade of white being off there
Before Photo:
During Photo:
Hey kinda looks like mine
Ugh, I need more sleep. I got that flywheel bolt off though. Welding a socket to it and using a bigger impact did the trick.
Flywheel is dropped off, ready to be lightened! They said they'd get it down to around 11lbs. Given that it's ~20lbs right now, that should be a significant difference. Should help the fun factor... make it more rev happy like the 1.6 but still having the power of the 1.9. Once the engine's together, I'll let Ed decide as he's had both!
Best thing is that I got my boost pin made. It looks pretty sweet! I had an incredible blonde moment and actually turned on out with the taper the wrong way... not so sure how I managed that one. The second pin came out nicer anyway, so maybe that was a good thing. No pictures right now as I don't actually have a digital camera; just my parents when I'm out their way. Soon, though.
I think that's all for now, although my brain isn't working well at the moment anyway
For future reference, welding a nut on works just a swell as welding a socket on and costs less.
Yes, although we have boxes of sockets in the back at work. Either way wouldn't have coated me anything
Boost pin! Still need to thread the top... I think it turned out pretty nicely though! The resting position is less fuel than the stock pin; far less than the 1.6 pin, but on boost it should give me some good fueling
Later on I can post a pic against the 1.6 pin if anyone wants me to
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5125279706_3c28c7f8eb_z.jpg
Pulled the engine most of the way apart with Ed last night!
We had no way of holding the crank to remove the crank nose bolt, so everything's still sitting in the block.
I did a quick measure of the bores; there's still soot on the cylinder walls so it's by no means the final measurement I'm going with, but it looks like the bores are well within spec. Like a few ten thou over the original bore. I can still see crosshatching on the walls! The only two things that made me nervous were cracks in the pre cups and the piston wobbled a bit.. maybe 1-2 thou. I won't worry about it all until I have everything pulled apart and can measure everything properly. I need to order parts on tuesday to meet my deadline for having the engine back together, so the rest is coming apart after I get home from work today!
I didn't end up working on the car at all today, but I did get my hands on a certain roots style blower better known as an Eaton M90.
I was thinking for a bit about possibly running it along with the K24, but once I got it home and sized it up in my engine bay, I realized that wouldn't be very easy... this thing is MASSIVE. Once it's sunny, I'll take a better look at any way of fitting it, but it probably won't happen. I'm more tempted to run it just because it would be awesome than for any logical reason! 
i have a M90 also, and i have fully accepted the fact that there is no room on a VW diesel. unless camshaft driven..
if you could find a VOLVO marine diesel supercharger (mfd by ogura clutch) and yes, it is a clutched charger.. but i dunno how hard they are to get ahold of. but they are like a foot, by a foot, by about 4" thick..
3.9 litre 6 banger direct injected volvo diesels come with them. KAMD series engines maybe?
http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_products/sc/sc_siyou.htmtheres the list of s/c and specs.. they are cute little chargers! who knows how hard it is to source one tho..
That boost pin looks good, but I would note that the stock cones are all offset.
I'm aware of that, but that can't be turned on a manual lathe.
Just from playing with a 1.6TD pin, I don't think the LDA on my AAZ pump can actually control the fueling enough to keep the smoke consistent at any boost level. I'll set the fueling for as much as I can and use the LDA to minimize the off boost smoke as much as I'm able to. The rest of the low boost smoke control will be with my right foot.
My adjustments will consist of spring rate and preload. It's not the best, but I'm just hoping to get close for now. If I am able to change the fueling with the LDA that I'm smoking on boost but not off boost, I'll just turn a shallower pin, although I don't expect to have that problem
and ROR, those chargers look pretty cool... I'd be curious to see their efficiency numbers. I wasn't all that serious about running the charger at all, I just thought for a short time that it would be pretty sweet.
There are guys running M90's, mostly on 8v and 16v gassers, they've got custom noses to shorten the charger and are running different rads
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4878890-Mounting-an-Eaton-M90
RadoTD and I reckon the amount of time and work it would be for he/us (he really) to do that is huge. It would take hours. At least with the tools at hand it would take forever. One would have to then cut the sides flat again after setting the offset and you'd have to start with a piece of stock large enough that once its turned & offset it has enough material to still produce a full pin from it. I dunno if it would be worth all the time?
bosch must have precision ground these pins in order to do it quick enough for production.
