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#75
by
745 turbogreasel
on 14 Nov, 2010 00:59
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I think that is the right choice, and if you do want more, cutting the seats deeper is a minor machining operation.
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#76
by
theman53
on 14 Nov, 2010 05:37
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I got undercut swirl polished stainless steel valves. I got all intake and exhaust for about the cost of 1 sodium filled exhaust valve.
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#77
by
Smokey Eddy
on 13 Dec, 2010 00:58
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Progress:
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#78
by
theman53
on 13 Dec, 2010 07:02
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Where is the CV going to go
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#79
by
RadoTD
on 13 Dec, 2010 07:11
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Where is the CV going to go
It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but I can assure you it will fit!
The downpipe from the LP turbo is going to go just over my diff and shifter cables, then drop down between the diff and ABS pump, then turn back and go between the firewall and steering rack
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#80
by
theman53
on 13 Dec, 2010 09:04
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Make sure to use some sort of high temp rated grease in those CVs lol...maybe not lol, might not be a bad idea.
What did you end up doing for valves? Air cooled engines plus had those stainless ones around 8.00 each:D If you are still looking.
BTW, looks great what you are doing.
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#81
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Dec, 2010 09:24
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how come it looks like the big turbo is on the engine, and the small turbo is fed from the big one?
or is that just how the picture was taken?
is that a K24 on top, and K14 on botttom?
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#82
by
Smokey Eddy
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:07
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
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#83
by
Smokey Eddy
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:07
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Oh, I also paid about $8 per valve for stainless ones.
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#84
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:14
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
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#85
by
RadoTD
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:17
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$8 each? Crap, the cheapest I found was over $25 Per valve and not even stainless!
The head is back together with the valves completely stock. C/r is stock other than a 3 notch gasket instead of 1 notch. I think I'll get through some school at least before going crazy. I'll prob end up going tdi at that point anyway
And Ed, how did you know I'd be wrapping it? Haha. High temp cv grease still sounds like a good idea though!
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#86
by
RadoTD
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:19
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
Only early 020's were smaller. Late mk2's are 100mm. My diff housing is a bit larger though
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#87
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 13 Dec, 2010 13:22
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R.O.R. I assure you they are going to go on correctly. The entire downpipe will have some form of insulating wrap. On the corrado the suspension and drive axles appear different from my jetta and they didn't look too close by any standard. It's close to the power steering rack if anything.
Corrado uses an O2A trans, and bigger drive flanges, and different drive axles IIRC..
Only early 020's were smaller. Late mk2's are 100mm. My diff housing is a bit larger though
i thought O2A trannies had like 108, or 114mm CVs? i could be COMPLETELY WRONG tho. im not THAT familiar with rados.
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#88
by
lord_verminaard
on 14 Dec, 2010 14:29
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02J's had the 108mm flanges, except for the TDI 02J's which had 100mm flanges.
Brendan
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#89
by
RadoTD
on 14 Dec, 2010 22:45
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I actually have a bunch of pictures on my hard drive. Been pretty busy lately though and haven't put them up. Here's a few I just took a few minutes ago though!
Still a few things to do before dropping the engine back in, the plan is to get a few people together on Sunday and get that done
Finish my oil feed lines
Make a K24 oil return line
Tighter bend on intermediate boost pipe (see below)
Clean up the bungs on my oil pan for oil temp and return and paint the pan
A few other little things, but I'm done thinking for today!
As you can see in the next few pics, the bend for the charge pipe between the two turbos doesn't fit perfectly. Realistically I need a tighter radius... I could cut a chunk out of it, cheat the radius a little and tig it back together, off tangent. I'll see at work tomorrow if I'm able to just bend it tighter though. Another 20 degrees or so and I can tilt the cold side of the K24 up further, shorten my pipe and it should all live happily ever after.
Custom brazed fitting for my oil feed to clear the other turbo. Had some difficulty actually brazing it together, so it doesn't look too pretty but it will work
Just another angle
You can see the K24 wastegate peeking through here right by the K14 oil return. Might be interesting squeezing my hand in there
Surprisingly handy whiteboard for keeping track of things!
