Frankenwagen build thread AKA TD Corrado - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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Frankenwagen build thread AKA TD Corrado by RadoTD on 08 Oct, 2010 20:13
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Partly due to some circumstances involving a lack of keys and cell reception and a need to get home, I've pulled my car off the road for a bit. My back up vehicle is insured for 3 months, so it doesn't need to run until the new year. I'll be moving part way through which will help keep things interesting, but hopefully everything runs fairly smoothly.
The point of this build is somewhat for me to organize everything I need to do (organization is certainly not one of my strengths) and keep me on track. So, bug me if I'm not updating for a while.
The car as it sits is a mostly stock AAZ superglued into a '90 Corrado. 2.5" straight exhaust, gov mod, fuel turned up and boost/egt gauges is basically all it stands away from 80 horses. I've spent the last year just doing maintenance stuff, rewiring nearly the whole car and getting it nicely drivable. The interior and some electronics are still lacking, but for the most part it's a solid car now.
My goals have bounced around a little, but in reality, I need something reliable. I'm currently saving up for school, so I can't be introducing pistons to the walls of a block too often. I'll still be running compounds; K14 and K24 together for 25-30psi and I'm hoping 160whp, maybe 170. The car is around 2500lbs, so that'll make a nice peppy daily driver and hopefully it'll keep itself bolted together at that power level.
So, here, as it stands is the list of things to do. I'll try to keep this updated and add things as I think of them.
Performance Related:
Install ARP head studs (should have them in a few days)
Drill, get hardware for and install main bearing girdle
Port head
Set up compound turbos
Order intercooler plumbing
Install intercooler
Install oil temp/pressure gauges
Shorten my shifter throw
Make custom boost pin
Maintenance Related:
Replace ignition and the big chunk of aluminum that holds my steering column haha
Rebuild motor (not 100% sure I will do a full rebuild, I'll see how it looks inside. 240k and it runs amazingly)
Cut into frame and replace the nuts my subframe bolts thread into
Clean up engine bay wiring
Control arm/subframe/sway bar bushings
Roll rear quarters
Re-do headliner
Wheel bearings maybe? There's some noise that's too much up front there
Optional:
Thinking of making a skid plate, possibly out of fiberglass to hopefully make my engine quieter?
Finally get around to making a surround for my gauge cluster
Get more interior crap/put more of the interior I have in
Put a stereo in? Naaa.... iPod > radio
Swap from ABS to non-ABS
That list certainly looks long enough to keep me busy for a while! I'm hoping to pull the motor this weekend and get started.
Here's what it basically looks like right now, except a bit lower and the rear wheels spaced out further:
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#1 by Smokey Eddy on 08 Oct, 2010 21:25
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RadoTD's Corrado is going to be the sickest diesel Corrado to ever cruise the streets! Can't wait to get my hands greasy with ya budd!
my BEST advice is to DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE
since you've got a second vehicle never for any reason skip anything or short out on something for the sake of a couple days sooner on the road. Do it all at once and do it all nice. that way you don't have to do it twice.
Paying double to do it properly once is cheaper than having to do it twice for half the cost! The math says its the same but trust me it's not
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#2 by RadoTD on 08 Oct, 2010 21:40
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RadoTD's Corrado is going to be the sickest diesel Corrado to ever cruise the streets! Can't wait to get my hands greasy with ya budd!
my BEST advice is to DO EVERYTHING AT ONCE
since you've got a second vehicle never for any reason skip anything or short out on something for the sake of a couple days sooner on the road. Do it all at once and do it all nice. that way you don't have to do it twice.
Paying double to do it properly once is cheaper than having to do it twice for half the cost! The math says its the same but trust me it's not
Haha thanks Ed
I'll definitely need your help more than a few times!
Is there any good reason for me to not do a full rebuild on the engine? 240k and it's never been pulled apart.
And I actually don't have a hoist to use for the weekend, so I'll have to find other things to keep me busy. That shouldn't be hard though. I've got a potentially sweet idea for my gauge cluster! Can't actually build it until I'm back at work with all the sheet metal tools, but I'll be putting some drawings together for sure! -
#3 by punkvideo81 on 08 Oct, 2010 22:03
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My guess is that you might wanna rebuild it if you are about to ask a lot more of it. You may end up building this all the way up with go fast goodies, blow the engine and then have to disassemble it all and start the rebuild shortly from now...just a thought
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#4 by theman53 on 09 Oct, 2010 04:56
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I started a similar build and am almost driving it daily now. I would rebuild the engine completely. When it is all said and done pistons and bore isn't much more money and it is out of the car already. Maybe if it had 140,000 instead of 240,000 but I think its best times on that bore are behind it Just like punk81 said if it were stock let it ride, more than that probably rebuild. My .02...
Good call on the ABS. I hate ABS. If you saw the driving I do you would understand I think. -
#5 by RadoTD on 09 Oct, 2010 07:36
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You guys are probably right, full rebuild it is. I'll stop being lazy!
I've never liked ABS... more to go wrong. I'm missing the wheel sensors anyway, so having the over complicated pump is benefiting me in no way -
#6 by truckinwagen on 10 Oct, 2010 12:40
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I agree, ABS are garbage. If you even half know what you are doing, you can stop much faster without.
My only advise( ok not only, but I am using my phone so I am trying to keep this brief) would be to test run the motor on a stand, so when it has issues you can did it before the motor is in the cramped engine bay. -
#7 by RadoTD on 10 Oct, 2010 20:49
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My only advise( ok not only, but I am using my phone so I am trying to keep this brief) would be to test run the motor on a stand, so when it has issues you can did it before the motor is in the cramped engine bay.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! One semi related question, would it be fine to rebuild the engine, test run it up to temp and have it sit for a few weeks afterwards? Obviously I'd prime it again, but is there any harm in leaving it sitting? -
#8 by theman53 on 11 Oct, 2010 04:46
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No harm in leaving it sit for a little while. I had to do mine that way as it was at the parents farm and I was 20 minutes away. I couldn't get over every night and sometimes just on the weekends. I don't think it would hurt to sit for longer periods, but I would think 9 months to a year you would want to look at the fluids and reprime for sure.
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#9 by RadoTD on 12 Oct, 2010 13:38
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Most of my time yesterday was spent shoveling gravel so I could have a free spot to leave the car parked. My back and arms are pretty sore right now!
I did finish a manual boost controller that's actually for Ed. Set it for 30psi
Reupholstered the headliner, picked up some bolts for the bearing girdle and some raw stock as well.
I got a quote for everything I need for the rebuild... came to just over $600. He didn't write down what manufacturer each item was from, but he is a VW guy and said it's all good stuff I can trust. Lifters were $107, bottom gasket set $76, head gasket $41, head gasket set $59, rings for $120, main, IM and rod bearings are $120 all together and other misc stuff. That's assuming my cylinder walls are in spec. Does that all sound about right? I don't mind paying a bit more from them; I know it's quality stuff and if there's a problem I have someone to go to.
And.. everyone likes pictures, right?
Headliner... sunroof and dome light panels are black suede and the headliner itself is black pinstripe
From L-R; 1045 shaft steel to turn boost pins from, 3/4" mild steel for bearing cap spacers, 3/16" aluminum plate that's a secret for now, bolts for the mains (M10x1.5x90mm) (12.9 hex cap of course!) and bolts for the oil pan through the girdle (M6x1x25mm).
Boost controller. Called a dawes valve or something like that... adjusted by tensioning a spring holding a ball bearing. It's for SmokeyEddy, so he'll have to tell you all how well it works!
Photo of the bearing girdle for good luck. 1/2" thick steel thanks to truckinwagen!
Yes, I know, posting a pic of how low your car is while it's parked on grass is cheating. Whatcha gonna do about it, eh? I need wider spacers though :/ Someday maybe. Probably not with these stock emkay wheels
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#10 by lord_verminaard on 13 Oct, 2010 10:46
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Should be a fun build! As much as I love my Corrado, I'm going to have to sell it, bigger and better things.
Good luck!!!
Brendan -
#11 by catlin_cava on 13 Oct, 2010 14:52
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TDI Corrado...
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#12 by arsenicpants on 13 Oct, 2010 15:09
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Boost controller. Called a dawes valve or something like that... adjusted by tensioning a spring holding a ball bearing. It's for SmokeyEddy, so he'll have to tell you all how well it works!
car looks great man! I'll be watching the build for sure
Can you please tell me where exactly you found the parts to make one of these?
they're so simple, and yet every time i go to Home Depot (a couple different ones!) they've never got the right parts. it's always either the right body with the wrong threaded ends, or the right threaded ends but no ball bearing anywhere to be seen, or not the right barbed valve size, or they don't have enough barbed valve ends, or whatever
it's getting pretty aggravating
where exactly did you find all these parts? -
#13 by RadoTD on 13 Oct, 2010 19:10
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TDI Corrado...
Umm wow
Alright, so mine won't look quite like that. Not by a long shot. I'll be able to spend more time driving than cleaning mine though!where exactly did you find all these parts?
Here's the shopping list and where I got them...
1/4" Ball Bearing - back room at work (KMS Tools)
3 springs total (2 together to increase spring rate and one running outside of them to keep them in line) - from 200? piece spring kit from Princess Auto
1/4" MNPT by 1/4" hose barb, 2 of - KMS Tools
1/4" FNPT tee - KMS Tools
1/4" MNPT pipe plug - Princess Auto
M8x1.25x40mm? bolt and nut - Coquitlam Automotive... doesn't need to be this size, but it worked well and I already had the tap. 5/16" or 3/8" NF would work well too
All my fittings were brass.... Lordco should have them as well
You might want something other than the 1/4" hose barbs to connect to your lines; I'm not sure how Ed's planning to do it. I just picked those up because they were the first bin I grabbed from. Either 1/8" hose barb then like a fuel line held onto your existing lines with a clamp or if you want to get fancy, you can get compression fittings for it (KMS or Lordco)
If you still have trouble finding everything, I could pull together all the fittings you need -
#14 by RadoTD on 13 Oct, 2010 19:58
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Hmm, so I'm in a bit of a crappy situation with my ignition housing. It's got some stupid shear bolts I need to get out to remove my cracked housing. I managed to steal my car from myself without touching this housing, so I fail to see the point of them?
Anyway, they're hardened steel and made a mess of my cold chisel and EZ-out and I didn't even scratch them.
I think I might just have to find a T-bolt clamp or something to hold the housing together. There's no chance of it failing, I just hate having play there. I'll have to grab an ignition assembly and test fit them all together, see if I can clamp it together somehow. The Bentley even just skips over removal of the steering column housing. Maybe some form of aluminum soldering? I know low temp aluminum welding rods exist, do those work on cast aluminum?
Here are pictures of the crack -
