Frankenwagen build thread AKA TD Corrado

[truckinwagen]

looks damn good!

but you might need a big ol' wastegate to bypass the HP turbo to keep boost down to mere insane levels.
wish I got around to a compound setup when I had a pair of turbos lying around...

[RadoTD]

looks damn good!

but you might need a big ol' wastegate to bypass the HP turbo to keep boost down to mere insane levels.
wish I got around to a compound setup when I had a pair of turbos lying around...

Thanks!

I'll be porting out the wastegate of the HP turbo and it will always be doing some of the work, so it won't need to be completely bypassed. One more thing I need to do is get a bung on the intermediate charge pipe, both to control the wastegate of the HP turbo with (I'll be running the HP turbo off of the pressure differential between the intermediate charge pipe and intake manifold) and to run a boost gauge between the two turbos.

The plan is to set the HP turbo for 12psi across itself. If manifold pressure - intermediate pressure < 12psi, the HP turbo's wastegate is doing it's job. If that difference is greater than 12psi, I'll need to chop into my exhaust mani and throw an external wastegate in there. If it works like this, no need to go there

[Smokey Eddy]

So matt decided he needed a bench grinder but didn't want to buy one ...



Matt doing some brazing:

And welding the oil pan stuff:

"Hey Matt, what are you doing?"
"what?"
*click*


annnnd we fixed my charge pipes (broke the record for most T-clamps used eve).

[theman53]

Looks great. I don't know the angle of your oil pan, but the return maybe a bit low if that is the return you are welding up. just make sure there is no blockage

[RadoTD]

Looks great. I don't know the angle of your oil pan, but the return maybe a bit low if that is the return you are welding up. just make sure there is no blockage

In that picture you see, the NPT bung I'm welding on is for my oil temp sender. The ground clamp is actually attached to the oil return; a -8 JIC that's right near the top of the pan

[theman53]

Good. I was a little worried for ya. Now that you explain the pic I can see it. I probably could be one of the least observant people on the planet.


Ever get a little hot on the short and curlys??? I have a problem lighting things on fire and that one looks a little too close to important equipment

[RadoTD]

My boys are about a .75% carbon content alloy, bringing the melting temperature up to just shy of 1500*C. Paint and coveralls surely burn at no more than 400*C, so there was a good margin of safety! Safety first, of course!

[Smokey Eddy]

Safety first. LOL. Not one picture are there gloves but that welder was the cleanest MIG I've ever used.

[rallydiesel]

I enjoy this thread greatly.

[Smokey Eddy]

Matt, did you make double sure the intermediate charge pipe will clear the firewall?

[RadoTD]

Nope! If it doesn't fit, I'll figure that out when I run into problems. For now, I'll just try to make it fit the easiest way possible.

And I'm glad you enjoy this thread, rallydiesel! Would a video of me and Eddy singing/dancing a duet make it better? (no homo... or wait?)

[RadoTD]

It's hard to see in this pic, crappy cell phone pic, but I need to bend my intermediate charge pipe further. We have no proper tubing bender at work right now (need to get a new demo unit on the floor!), but we a tubing roller right now. the dies were too far apart, so I attempted to improvise and pinch some v blocks against the pins that the dies usually sit on, then put the dies in the v blocks and just press the pipe into them.

Didn't work haha. So, either cut it, cheat the radius and tig it or wait until we have a better bender on display.

It will actually work, the coupler is just kinked a little coming off the outlet of the K24, you can see it in the pics I posted earlier.

Pic of the failure though!

[R.O.R-2.0]

Safety first. LOL. Not one picture are there gloves but that welder was the cleanest MIG I've ever used.

safety first ed, get a damn t-belt cover on that car asap.. a rock thru the belt would ruin your day buddy.. and i know how much work you just did to that car.. so do yourself a favor and put one on 

a video of you and ed singing and dancing.. i would definitely watch that. lol. post it up in the "Shenanigans" thread. lmfao.

[RadoTD]

I have a question for whoever can answer it... the nuts on my bumper bracket that hold the front subframe on had partially rusted out and one had actually stripped out. I ordered new stainless bolts/nuts and welded the stainless nuts on top of the original flange nut. Figured it couldn't hurt and will never rust out

I was curious about the tensile strength of the bolts compared to the original, expecting the stainless to be stronger (A2-70), but they were actually only 100,000psi, where as the original bolts, 10.9 are 150,000psi. I'm just wondering if the stainless will be strong enough to run without worrying about it or should I put 10.9 or even 12.9 bolts back in? There are rubber mounts between the subframe and frame rails, so the peak forces shouldn't be crazy, I'm just wondering because VW did put 10.9 bolts on there...

Pics for reference

[theman53]

Pick me pick me...
I sell nuts and bolts. You could buy a 316 grade stainless and it is in between the 10.9 and 12.9 strengths. 18-8 is almost like grade 5 in US terms, but about the same or less than 8.8. 
If you replaced the stainless with 12.9 it is so high carbon that it won't rust like a normal bolt.
Also, when you weld stainless to regular steel it will take on some of those properties and the weld will still rust. Some of the nut too.
It only has to hold the bumper there. In an impact it will be going against the diameter of the bolt not pulling against the bolt's length. Sometimes shear strength in a fastener is good even if the tensile is not that good.
Do what you wish, but I would probably go with the stainless 316. But since you already have the 18-8 or 303 whichever it is about the same I would just run it.