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Author Topic: mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ  (Read 323168 times)

Reply #45January 21, 2009, 09:00:03 pm

Ziptar

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #45 on: January 21, 2009, 09:00:03 pm »
Nice!  Really great Info, thanks for adding to the FAQ!

Reply #46February 23, 2009, 12:28:16 pm

Hey

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #46 on: February 23, 2009, 12:28:16 pm »
I had a problem with the idi timing lever at the back of the pump. DON'T use it.  It disasemble itself twice and Named Tintin had also told me a similar story. There is too much wibration with a DI camplate and maybe this is why it didn't worked.

You don't need it as the tdi will start just fine. You can always use 12V on the selenoid at the front of the pump to increase timing at idle when below -20C (the car will fume for 15minutes if you don't at these temperatures)

Instead of the idi lever, you can use the stop plate from the TDi-e pump. It has 4 holes, but you use 2 and it will work just fine. Use gasket paste if you want but DONT use the tdi gasket as it will leak (look carefully at it and you will see why... this gasket needs 4 bolts)

There is the lever that you shouldn't use:




Also, if you need infos to inderstand a pump:


http://www.vwquebec.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=197994
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #47March 04, 2009, 09:55:19 am

Hey

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #47 on: March 04, 2009, 09:55:19 am »
EDIT:
For those who wanted to see what the cabarit looks like here are some pics.








IT is a non-modified lever
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #48March 04, 2009, 12:22:43 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #48 on: March 04, 2009, 12:22:43 pm »
i've been using the timing advance lever for a little while now (only for about 10-30 seconds to a minute at idle to let the engine smooth out) and i haven't had any problems.

i don't have a 12mm head though.


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Reply #49March 04, 2009, 01:14:54 pm

Hey

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« Reply #49 on: March 04, 2009, 01:14:54 pm »
the DI camplate makes a lot of vibration in the whole pump at low RPM... this is what is going to get the retaining circlip out! This is also the reason why they added a roller from td to tdi. I don't have a 12mm head (10mm only) and it broke twice after about 1000km to 2000km.

Don't go too far without the tools to repair it in case it breaks.

Do you have fuel leaking out? Is it always wet in this area?
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #50March 05, 2009, 09:31:25 am

foxracer1

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #50 on: March 05, 2009, 09:31:25 am »
Quote from: "Hey"
EDIT:
For those who wanted to see what the cabarit looks like here are some pics.




IT is a non-modified lever


Is that what you use to get the new fulcrum points for the TDI? Kinda like a gauge.
84 4dr Rabbit 1.6 N/A sold to friend
86 Jetta TD getting raced out AHU 02A
98 Jetta TDI Malone tune stg 3
91 S10 305 TPI T56
86 S10 2WD Prerunner project.


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Reseal injection pumps PM for det

Reply #51March 06, 2009, 12:08:06 pm

Hey

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« Reply #51 on: March 06, 2009, 12:08:06 pm »
No, I measured directly when it is inside the pump.

I also measured the maxium pivot movement from an e-tdi pump.

Someone also cut a pump to make a cabarit:

look here: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17647&start=30
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #52March 06, 2009, 09:43:48 pm

dieselherb1

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« Reply #52 on: March 06, 2009, 09:43:48 pm »
Quote from: "Hey"
the DI camplate makes a lot of vibration in the whole pump at low RPM... this is what is going to get the retaining circlip out! This is also the reason why they added a roller from td to tdi. I don't have a 12mm head (10mm only) and it broke twice after about 1000km to 2000km.

Don't go too far without the tools to repair it in case it breaks.

Do you have fuel leaking out? Is it always wet in this area?


And what breaks? the retaining circleclip? Or the roller? And can this be fix on the road in the dark while its snowing?

Reply #53March 07, 2009, 05:25:59 pm

Hey

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« Reply #53 on: March 07, 2009, 05:25:59 pm »
lol! Yes the retaining circlip will get away... and about the dark snowy night... anything is possible, it only depends on you.

But I wouldn't want to test myself at night at -20C... I repaired this at -20C during the day while snowing and it wasn't fun anymore.

Just don't do the same mistakes as everyone else. One guy in France had to change this on the side road twice on a eurovan mtdi and Named Tintin had also told me it would leak.  Three independant people.. all with the same problem. It is enough to convince me.
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #54March 07, 2009, 06:08:20 pm

jtanguay

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« Reply #54 on: March 07, 2009, 06:08:20 pm »
Quote from: "Hey"
the DI camplate makes a lot of vibration in the whole pump at low RPM... this is what is going to get the retaining circlip out! This is also the reason why they added a roller from td to tdi. I don't have a 12mm head (10mm only) and it broke twice after about 1000km to 2000km.

Don't go too far without the tools to repair it in case it breaks.

Do you have fuel leaking out? Is it always wet in this area?


nothing wrong with the pump.  no leaks or anything.  Giles built it for me  :D

the advance lever works like it did on my old car.  rpm & timing boost.  timing boost is nullified at about 1800 rpm or so though so i don't think it would make too much problems.

i hope the vibrations won't wreck anything, but we'll see.  i bought a CTN transmission specifically to reduce my rpm's to keep everything happy.  and save a bit of $$$ on fuel  8)


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Reply #55March 10, 2009, 03:00:41 pm

410

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« Reply #55 on: March 10, 2009, 03:00:41 pm »
Hey, thank you very much for all the info, it's exactly what I was looking for as well.  I've modified my control lever as you have stated and I think it is going to work well.  I have run into a few clearance issues between the lever and the pump but nothing a file couldn't fix.  

If I was to do this again there's one thing that I would do differently.  Instead of cutting down the top of the lever at the two places indicated, I think I would try shimming the entire top of the pump about 5mm using a piece of aluminum with a slot cut into one side to hold another o-ring gasket.  I haven't tested the pump yet but it seems to be binding a lttle when the caged governer spring is hooked up.  I think the reason for this is the caged spring governer lever is no longer lined up correctly.  Any thoughts anyone?

Also my first pump housing I started with was a 1.6 td.  To overcome the lack of advance on the advance piston, I installed a 3mm shim between the cover and the pump giving me the extra room to get about 9.5mm of movement.  This should work but I haven't tested this either.


I'm new to this forum but have been reading for a long time.
Toyota truck 4x4 with Mtdi, M-vnt gt1749va, 11mm pump, fmic, smog .216 nozzles.  Sold!
Working on 1993 4runner mtdi, gtb1756vk, 11mm pump, smog .216 nozzles, custom 1" thick adaptor plate, pd150 intake manifold.

Reply #56March 10, 2009, 05:47:07 pm

rallydiesel

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« Reply #56 on: March 10, 2009, 05:47:07 pm »
What's a cabarit?
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

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Reply #57March 17, 2009, 11:24:46 am

410

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« Reply #57 on: March 17, 2009, 11:24:46 am »
I have completed and tested my pump after following heys very detailed instructions.  After modifying the control lever I had 2 extra changes I had to make so everything would move freely.  The lda lever was rubbing against the top of the control lever so I trimmed about 3mm off the bottom of the lda lever.  That was enough to give me some clearance between the two.  

         The caged spring governer was also binding a little where it hooks up to the control lever since this is no longer a straight pull because the  control lever is higher.  Using a dremel, I just removed a very small amount of material corresponding to the angle that the caged spring now operates at.  These two mods totally cured any binding of movement once the top cover was bolted on.

          The toughest part for me was drilling the holes thru the control lever.  This is some of the hardest steel I have ever drilled.  I found that a cobalt drill bit worked the best.  

           Just like hey stated, I did not modify the throttle lever length either and I didn't shim any of the caged governer springs.  Good luck to who ever wishes to attempt a pump like this, it's alot of fun!
Toyota truck 4x4 with Mtdi, M-vnt gt1749va, 11mm pump, fmic, smog .216 nozzles.  Sold!
Working on 1993 4runner mtdi, gtb1756vk, 11mm pump, smog .216 nozzles, custom 1" thick adaptor plate, pd150 intake manifold.

Reply #58March 17, 2009, 01:15:13 pm

Sierra94

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My modified lever
« Reply #58 on: March 17, 2009, 01:15:13 pm »
Please share your thoughts. I took some pics of my lever under construction. Might be useful in this faq. If anything looks wrong, please tell me and I will rebuild it.

Edit: I fixed my old broken links!





« Last Edit: December 11, 2012, 01:53:48 pm by Sierra94 »
<-- My M-tdi Mazda B-1800 and my other cars

Reply #59March 17, 2009, 11:59:33 pm

Hey

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« Reply #59 on: March 17, 2009, 11:59:33 pm »
Quote
The lda lever was rubbing against the top of the control lever so I trimmed about 3mm off the bottom of the lda lever


I thought I mentionned it... sorry. I will make the correction

Quote

 This is some of the hardest steel I have ever drilled. I found that a cobalt drill bit worked the best.
 hahaha!! It is really hard to drill!

Quote
I did not modify the throttle lever length
If you can still reach maximum movement and have a good idle, then it's all good. If you ever feel the fuel is not sensitive enough or you can't have a low enough idle, then make this lever a little bit longer.

very nice job! I am really happy it worked well and that my explanations were usefull!! Thank you for sharing!

To Sierra94:
wow!!! really nice job!!

I can see you also grinded where the throttle lever gets attached, like 410 mentionned.

If you made a gabarit then everything is perfect... you are good to go!  Make sure the throttle lever is between 13 to 14mm. According to 410 it is not necessary but I think it's best to do it since it you will have more room to adjust idle and to play with the fuel srew.

Also, grind the boost pin lever or cut it a little bit (because the lever you are showing will be higher in the cover)... adjust the governor if needed (23.5mm from back of lever to housing outside border)... that's it!

Keep us informed of the progress.


To both of you: Are you going (or did you) to keep the 1.9td idle system or you will(are using) use a 1.6td one?

If you kept the 1.9td idle system, then can you tell us what lenght was you idle lever. I said that in theory you need to increase the lengt by 30% I think, but I never tried.
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

 

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