Author Topic: mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ  (Read 323166 times)

Reply #30August 01, 2008, 06:08:31 pm

Vincent Waldon

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #30 on: August 01, 2008, 06:08:31 pm »
I think I get it... the shim moves the "piston" closer or further away from the "combustion chamber" (bad metaphors but it'll do).

So the same amount of fuel (determined by plunger stroke) is being pushed into a deeper or shallower hole... the "depth" of the hole actually being set by  how far the piston pushes down... as determined by the thickness of the shim.

Because we're dealing with small sizes here a little change in thickness means alot... same actually with the thickness of the headgasket when you think of it.  To change the compression ratio we could actually shim the top of the piston and get the same effect... just not practical !

Haven't done the math so the above may be crap... but I'm wondering if this is the gist.
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #31August 01, 2008, 06:18:35 pm

jimfoo

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #31 on: August 01, 2008, 06:18:35 pm »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
But, in the compression ratio example, the "combustion chamber" would be the entire volume of fuel being compressed, including the space in the distribution head, the entire injection line and the fuel space in the injector.  I imagine the difference in shim thickness from thinnest to thickest would be 1/10,000th of that space.  Also, in that example, changing the shim thickness in the injectors would have the same effect.  

I don't dispute your experience, I'm just trying to understand why.

Andrew

Don't worry, I don't understand it either as fuel doesn't compress, so I don't see how "deep" the hole is matters. What I did see is that with a thinner shim for the same fuel setting, it makes the bleed hole open up later.
Jim
1966 Land-Rover 88" with 1.9 1Z which has been transformed to an M-TDI
TFO35 mechanically controlled VNT, IC , and 2.5" exhaust.
Driven daily

Reply #32August 01, 2008, 06:32:36 pm

Vincent Waldon

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #32 on: August 01, 2008, 06:32:36 pm »
Everything compresses... solids, liquids, gases... just not so much for solids and liquids. ;-)

Bear in mind I'm just thinking out loud here... trying to learn from you smart people.

I suppose this is really about developing pressure.  The plunger pushes against the slug of fuel (size of which is determined by the control collar position) and develops pressure.  The smaller the passage it is being forced into the larger the pressure... enough to open the check valve and eventually the injector.  Push down more (different shim)... more pressure.

But yeah, the math doesn't make sense just yet... perhaps I need to dig out my fluid mechanics texts from engineering...  where did I put those again ?
Vince

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2001 silver TDI Jetta Malone Stage 1.5 , 2001 blue TDI Jetta SBIII 216s Malone Stage 3, 1970 Bay Window bus

Gone but not forgotten: 1969/1971 Beetles, 1969/1974 Westies, 1979 Rabbit, 1986 TD Jetta, 1992 gas Jetta, 1994 TD Jetta

Reply #33August 02, 2008, 01:27:33 pm

Tintin

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« Reply #33 on: August 02, 2008, 01:27:33 pm »
I already whrite it in some post, the correct shim thickness is equal to + or - 3.7mm (face end of the plunger to sealing face of the cap) for the most of the pump, 3mm or 4mm have relatively no effect in pressure or performance till the plunger do not hit the plug, (to be safe measure must be higher than the lift of the cam plate).

With the old grooved plunger (like old cummins pump) the shim must be adjusted in the spec with a special tool to calculate the ''pre-stroke'' of the plunger, Improper shim with this type of plunger can change the area in the plunger stroke when the plunger start to built pressure, It's why the pressure can be affected, Also its a silencer parameter.

Also combined, if the start of the pressure built area is changed, the start point on the came plate lift is also different, the º of the curve is different, means more or less pressure.

Reply #34August 20, 2008, 09:03:39 am

Tintin

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« Reply #34 on: August 20, 2008, 09:03:39 am »
What appens with you Westyman, you are opposed?

Andrew, yes it is the fill hole affected by the groove area, the correct shim tickness can be found with the pump test sheet, but no idea if maxed with another came plate.

Reply #35December 04, 2008, 03:06:24 pm

jimbote

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« Reply #35 on: December 04, 2008, 03:06:24 pm »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
I wanted to add a couple more bits of useful information for mTDI pump building.  One is that the un-caged governor spring for pump #0460424138 can be used with a lengthened accelerator lever to give 4,500 rpms.

The other is that the pump mainshaft from an eTDI can have the two cutouts machined for the rubber cushions and can be used to achieve the proper pulley offset if one is using a "short snout" pump.  This is especially convenient if one is already gutting an eTDI pump for the dynamic timing bits.

Andrew


Awesome info....I'll be ordering my springs shortly!!

Reply #36January 17, 2009, 11:10:58 pm

Hey

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« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2009, 11:10:58 pm »
I explain here  http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17647&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

how to make a mTdi pump that works REALLY well.

I might have time to write an english version before summer or maybe not... but if someone wants to do it... go there is no copyrights!!
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #37January 18, 2009, 12:42:22 am

blkboostedtruck

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« Reply #37 on: January 18, 2009, 12:42:22 am »
Quote from: "Hey"
I explain here  http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17647&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

how to make a mTdi pump that works REALLY well.

I might have time to write an english version before summer or maybe not... but if someone wants to do it... go there is no copyrights!!


yea just judging by the pics it looks to be a good write up! somebody can babelfish it to translate it so you would not have to re-write that in english!
save you lots of time hey!
Duane
injector rebuilds call  414-840-1395 for faster service not on line much!
'66 variant 1500S
'81 2dr n/a 1.6 diesel rabbit 8"lift 260K R.I.P.
'81 caddy gas 1.8 turbo/stroker W/N.O.S.
'81 caddy 1.9 turbo diesel
'82 caddy gas 1.8 G60
 3 jettas '82' '04 '14TDI
+1 rabbit,03 HD sc.eag. duece,46,&5

Reply #38January 20, 2009, 01:24:21 pm

Hey

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« Reply #38 on: January 20, 2009, 01:24:21 pm »
I’ve been able to build my own mTdi pump successfully and, since it works really well, I though I should show you how to do it. Feel free to ask any questions and to share with others if you have good ideas.

In this post and the two following ones, I will used lots of pictures that gathered everywhere on the net. I will, from time to time, add some pictures so you might want to check or ask for photos.

I build a mTdi 10mm pump, so for those who know how to adjust the pump for 11mm and 12mm head go! I will give insight on how to adjust the pump, but I don’t know the exact settings.

I am not a native English speaker so I you feel the text needs improvement or that the grammar is incorrect at some places, PM me, I will make the change … and learn a little bit more English doing so.

How to install a Tdi hydraulic head

 
Image 1

KF setting
The first adjustment is done where the red arrow is located: the springs and initial springs load. The springs initial load(height) is adjustable with variable shims thicknesses. Both side must have the same length of springs and shims to avoid an unbalanced hydraulic head. This adjustment is called in Bosch ESItronic software the KF setting.

This KF setting, is measured on the other side of the hydraulic head. One unscrews the large stopper or cap (with a pipe ranch) to measure it (it is a three side ~24mm nut). This stopper is located at the same place where you make the timing adjustment of the pump (1mm before TDC). You put the hydraulic head on a table with the yellow facing down on the table. It is important not to apply to much pressure on the hydraulic head so that the springs are not compressed. Then, using a sliding gauge, measure the depth of the plunger from the edge of the hole of the plunger. For A4 Tdi’s springs, the KF setting should be between 8.2 and 8.6mm.

If you put more, the pump will be a little more difficult to turn, but you will have more power with high RPM. If you put less, the pump will be easier to turn, but the camplate may tend to skip on the rollers, resulting on less high RPM fuelling… the other advantage for a 12mm head would be to avoid seizing up the head, since less pressure means less heat.

Note that the A4 Tdi’s springs are longer than those of td’s (AAZ), but they seem less rigid. I thus do not advise you to take td’s springs with a KF setting of 8.6. If you have td’s springs put a KF setting between 5.4 and 6.6 which is the recommended setting for this type of spring.


K setting



Image 2

The second adjustment is done by the means of a small shim which is presented under the form of a button. This small button is placed where the blue arrow point. Its thickness is variable. You can use a grinding stone to adjust it

The K setting is measured in a similar way to the KF. The difference is that the hydraulic head must be assembled and screwed on the pump -always screw the 4 hydraulic head screws at the same time (gradually) if not you may bent the plunger. Then, when the hydraulic head is well screwed, you turn the pump shaft with a 19mm key (for 17mm shaft). The stopper should be removed so you can see the plunger going up and down as the camplate turns on the rollers. The K setting is the maximum distance between the edge of the hole of the plunger (inside the stopper) and the tip of the plunger.

In short, you turn the pump to ensure you that the travel of the plunger is at the minimal point (dead point) you measure it. You should have between 3.6 and 3.8mm. If you have less, it might be possible for the plunger to strike the stopper (the cap) at high RPM especially if your KF setting is very low. If you have more, it means that your plunger lower. In this case, it is as if you had already increased the injection quantity.

Cross and rollers



Image 3

The AAZ’s cross is different from the tdi’s one. That of td is weaker since it has a hollow in its center to accomodate a small spring. You can use the tdi one and forget the spring. The springs of the hydraulic head are so much more rigid than this little one that you can forget about it. Simply pay attention not to put the camplate 180° from it’s correct position. Remember the position of the pin pointed by the green line of image 2.

If ever you lost the position, the pin of the camplate must be aligned with the hollow on the “shaft” of the pump. If you have an adjustable pump on the pulley (double pulley), you will not see this hollow since there is a black adaptor on the shaft of pump. In this case, the pine of the camplate goes approximately 35° after (in the direction of rotation) the notch on the black adaptor of the shaft.

Pay attention to the rollers, there is a shim with them and this shim is convex. The convex part goes towards the outside of the pump…. just like if the shims where bent in a circle.
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #39January 20, 2009, 01:53:01 pm

rallydiesel

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« Reply #39 on: January 20, 2009, 01:53:01 pm »
Awesome to see the sharing of knowledge! Thanks hey.
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #40January 20, 2009, 02:25:53 pm

Hey

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« Reply #40 on: January 20, 2009, 02:25:53 pm »
No problem... I am a physicist... sharing information is all I do! I use a web site to help me traduce so I don't have to write everything back. I try to correct it as much as I can.

Injection lever modification

This is the most important part, but also the most difficult one. You must be able to weld pieces of small metal 2mm thick… a MIG is good enough.



Image 4

The pump sleeve is pointed by the red arrow. The more this sleeve is moved upwards, the more fuel the pumps inject. With a tdi camplate (in top of the yellow arrow), the plunger moves very quickly to the top (the camplate bumps are very sharp, abrupt) whereas for an indirect injection  camplate, the plunger moves slower to the top (less abrupt bumps). The fact of having abrupt bumps thus decreases the time of injection… this is one of the principal advantages of a DIRECT injection over an indirect one.

Saying that diesel is incompressible, is not completely true with pressures as high as those that one finds in an injection pump. When the plunger moves quickly to the top, the time of injection is shorter, but for the same sleeve position the injection quantity is lower with a tdi camplate than with a td camplate. This is due to the increased delay of injection with a tdi camplate between the beginning of the rise of the camplate on the rollers VS the injection of a diesel fume. It is also the reason for which the static advance must slightly be increased as the camplates become more abrupt. (0.95mm td, 1mm 1Z tdi, 1.05mm ALH).

The sleeve which regulates the injection quantity moves approximately 1.6mm in an AAZ pump and 2.6mm in a tdi-e pump. One must thus modify the pump to get on more 1mm of up/down play. It will thus be necessary to be VERY precise. In fact, you can have 2.6, 2.8,  3.2 mm, but if you are 2mm decentred you will get nowhere… the injection quantity screw will be at the maximum and the injection will be minuscule…. Or the injection quantity will be at the minimum and the idle will be 2000RPM.

What makes the sleeve move is the lever beside (at the left) the blue arrow. The vertical play allowed by this lever must be lengthened. To do so, one will lengthen the distance between the lever axis and the pin that is inserted inside the plunger sleeve. But as we are limited in what we can do (~5mm more) one will have to also lengthen the lever pointed by the green arrow of image 5.


Image 5

Why don’t we only lengthen the lever pointed by the green arrow? Because the lever of image 4 is also used to control the idle by the help of the governor. If this lever is not lengthened, the governor will not be able to make the sleeve move enough to keep a regular idle.

Lengthen the lever pointed by the green arrow of image 5 to 13mm - 14mm between the middle of the two axis. Carefully keep the same angle so that the lever will not rub in the pump cover. Cut it with a hand saw. Take a small metal peice, a MIG and go!


Principal lever modification


Image 6

The goal is to lengthen the distance between the axis of pivot (line red) and the pin(yellow line) which fits in the sleeve (at the end of the green line). In other words, one wants to increase the distance between the yellow and red lines. You will then cut the metal end at the end of the green line which holds the pin. Thereafter, one will further weld back this pine farther away ~5mm from the axis (indicated by the red line). This way when the lever moves, the pine chrome which fits in the sleeve of hydraulic head will traval more.

However, if you move away the pin, you will have to modify ALL the lever. If you don’t, you will bent the hydraulic head plunger. To avoid bending, decentring the pin, putting the pin too high or too low of 1 or 2mm, putting the pin too much to the left or to the right, etc one must make a gabarit (some kind of template) with an unmodified 1.9td lever. Make threads in your cabarit to hold your lever COMPLETELY as if it were in your pump at a given injection quantity position. IMPORTANT, when it is screwed NOTHING can move: the pin cannot move up and down and the 2 parts of the lever cannot move. Use an old hydraulic 9mm head from an AAZ pump and weld the plunger onto a plate. Also weld the sleeve on plunger, and put a system to lock the lever in the same position everytime. NOTHING must move and when you put it back, it is in the same position.

Step 1
To reassembled ALL the lever, there is no choice but to make another hole lower; i.e. between the hole of the retaining screws and lever axis. The bore is 5mm diameter and there is approximately 7mm of space. You thus do not have any room for play between the 2. Put the hole in the center. Image 7 allows to see that you will have a play from left to right… green circle VS  purple circle. If you drill in the green direction, you will have to remove shims behind the governor (toothed wheel). If you drill on the purple side, you will need to add shims behind the governor. Try to bore in the center, but ESPECIALLY ensure that you drill equally on the 2 sides (so the lever is not twisted). To use a with cement drill bit 5mm  diameter (do not make it turn too fast) if it is too difficult to bore.


Image 7


Once you made the holes, put the lever back in the pump –using the new holes- without the hydraulic head installed and ensure that the whole lever moves correctly. You may have to grind a little the end of the retaining screws who will surely rub on the lever.

Step 2
Put your lever in your gabarit and weld the pin to the same exact configuration as before..but ~5mm away. It must be EXACTLY at the same position as before: left, right, and especially up and down, but 5mm further (I say 5mm but that depends from where you have to bore, it can be 5.3mm, 5.2mm, 5.4.. etc).

WARNING: If you bored 5mm higher and you welded the pin only 5.4mm away, your pin will be 0.4mm too far. It will then push on the hydraulic head which may bent. Ensure to have the same depth of insertion of the pin with your modified and original lever. To avoid going too far, I built my gabarit by putting the pin of the original lever COMPLETELY at the bottom of the hole of the sleeve.

Step 3
Since you upped your lever of ~5mm, it will rub in your pump cover. You must then remove 5mm at 2 places. The first place is indicated by the blue line of image 6. You cut it and that’s all!!

The second place is indicated by the purple line of image 7. You must weld it back though. This part of the lever is in fact the place where the bolt allowing to adjust the injection quantity is pressing. You must weld it back precisely using your gabarit. Also, weld it just enough to hold it. Put the lever back in place in the pump, with the cover on and put grease at the end of the injection quantity bolt. You should see the place of contact by a trace of grease on the lever.
 
Once again, use the gabarit to weld it to the good position. If you do not weld this axis at the good place, your adjusting bolt will be too long or too short.


Gabarit modifications
If you think that your adjusting bolt is too long or too short, that you do not have enough or too much fuel injected, you can modify the position of the lever pin so that it is in the direction + fuel or – fuel by modifying your gabarit. Put an adjustment screw on you gabarit to hold the lever in place. This way you will be able to unsolder your lever pin and adjust it as you like.
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #41January 20, 2009, 03:31:56 pm

Hey

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« Reply #41 on: January 20, 2009, 03:31:56 pm »
Governor adjustment
There are here 3 adjustments to make.

First, depending on where you have drill the principal lever …towards the green or purple side (see image 7) you will have to remove or put shims at the place pointed by the red arrow of image 8. To know how much to add or to remove, measure the distance, with an original lever I measured 23.5mm, between the external edge on the right side of the pump (right on the image also) and the back of the lever WHEN the principal lever is at the leftmost position AND the lever which adjusts the quantity of injection is at the rightmost position(initial position).

In other words, you have to measure the maximum travel of the lever towards the left. In my case, I measured from the outside edge of the pump to the back of the lever: a sliding gauge supported beside the edge and the sliding part on the little metal piece encaging the small spring.

Use an original and a modified lever to have the same measure. If you put more distance, the governor will be less efficient (more fuel but idle may become erratic), if you put less distance, the governor will decrease the injection quantity before 4000RPM.

I first had 1mm less and it was working well… the LDA wasn’t working much and I could feel the car stop accelerate à 3000RPM at ½ throttle position. At full throttle I could not feel anything though. I have now 23.4mm and it is perfect!



Image 8

Second, you will have to lengthen the axis that makes it possible to adjust the idle on a 1.9td. It is the axis after which a small spring is installed to draw on the principal lever. You must lengthen it of 30% in theory. I did not do it, so I do not know if it’s the good length. The simplest way is to take a piece from a 1.6D pump.

See at the end of the red arrow of image 9, there is a small spring. It is what can replace the idle system on these 1.9td pumps. With this spring system you will not need to lengthen another lever.


Image 9

 Third
You must adjust the dept of the regulator axis.


Image 10

You must adjust the axis so that the small holes on the regulator sleeve (look between the wings of the governor with a strong lamp) mask completely the hole approximately 0.25 to 0.5mm before arriving at the end of travel.

If you hear the engine clatter to much at ¾ throttle, unscrew a little bit the axis.

Pump cover modification
Until now, the only thing connected to the pump cover is if you have replace the idle system with one of the 1.6td system.

There is a lever to cut in the pump cover. Unfortunately, I do not have photographs. It is the lever which determines up to what point the LDA (boost pin) can give a greater quantity of injection OR if you prefer, up to what point the principal lever can travel to the t-belt side of the pump. You can see the external part of this lever when the pump is assembled on the engine. This lever NEVER moves. To cut the interior part and you will have all the freedom of a fully functional LDA, which will help avoid smoke at low RPM.

Also, it makes it possible for the pump to increase the timing advance as more fuel is injected (see adjusting the third adjustement of the governor) since the governor sleeve goes fully to the left.

About those governor sleeves. I tried one with 4 thin holes… you could hear the engine clatter at a given point. It means that the timing advance increased rapidly. I have now a 2 holes sleeve with larger holes (more a crack than a hole!!). It is smoother like this and I think the timing advance VS fuel quantity is more accurate, gradual and natural!

Timing advance
Myth #1: A 1.9td timing advance system (piston+springs) is not suitable for tdi since they need more advance.  F A L S E!

A tdi engine AND a AAZ engine both needs a little bit less than 20°crankshaft advance. The 1.9td piston travels 9.5mm which represents 20°cranksahft advance. The tdi system allows for more advance true BUT at idle the timing piston already traveled 2-3mm allowing the electronic to compensate for temperature or bad static timing. So if you use a tdi system, at idle the piston will already move 2-3mm. If you timed the car at 1mm BTDC, the clatter will be too much. You will have to time the car at 0.8mm BTDC which will result in bad cold wheater starting and you won’t be able to use the cold start advance system (believe me, with a 10mm head and .184 injector you need it… with a 12mm head and .230 injector my father don’t need it.. no smokes!!)

So if you use the tdi system, my advice is to put more shims behind the piston spring as to have the same initial load on the spring as a 1.6Td  NOT  1.9td. The 1.9td spring is very smooth because it is a 2 spring system which is completely different. Use a weighing machine and press on a 1.6td timing piston until it barely moves.. note the weigh. Then increase the shims thickness until you have the same value with a tdi system. (N.B. I did not tried it, but this is what I would do!) If you don’t have a 1.6td pump… you can calculate it. Remember that the force applied is equal to (F=PA) pressure*surface. The surface is the surface of a circle (piston diameter) and the pressure could be measured.

So I suggest you use the 1.9td system whitout any modifications. For a 10mm head use a 1.6td regulator. The spring system is a one spring type and it requires a little bit more pressure to work… this little more pressure is only what you need for the 10mm head.

If you want a 11mm or 12mm, you will have to find the good combination between the regulator and the shims adjustment of the piston springs because I don't know it!!.

EDIT: For a 11mm head, a tdi advance system with additional shims (to avoid the timing advance at idle) and with a 1.6td regulator seems to work.

However, the advance system with 2 springs is then very effective. The small spring acts like a second regulator. You could in fact keep the 1.9td regulator for a 11mm or 12mm by adjusting the rigidity of the small and big springs. It is easier to change the regulator since you don’t need to get the pump out of the car to adjust it.

The small spring pushes a stem which, when it is completely recessed, makes it possible for the diesel to go back to the 0 psi pressure side (entrance)… thus to reduce the pressure. When the spring is compressed, less diesel can turn go back to the pump entry. This spring is very soft because the diameter of the stem is small. The F=pA Force where p=pression and A=surface of the stem=1/4*pi*diamètre^2. In fact, this small spring may appear smooth but it is rigid enough for the size of the stem.

Logically (not tested) one should have this: the softer is the small spring the more the pressure goes up quickly in the pump. The harder it gets the longer it takes in term of RPM for the pressure to go up  in the pump. In fact, this small spring seems to control the timing advance of the low RPM.  The large spring will influence all the RPM range.

 
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN

Reply #42January 20, 2009, 04:08:11 pm

rallydiesel

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mTDI / TDI-M Injection Pump FAQ
« Reply #42 on: January 20, 2009, 04:08:11 pm »
This is what I've been looking for.  8)
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #43January 21, 2009, 10:16:40 am

foxracer1

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« Reply #43 on: January 21, 2009, 10:16:40 am »
Quote from: "rallydiesel"
This is what I've been looking for.  8)


I 2nd that! I'm getting ready to build one this wknd. Thank you very much.
84 4dr Rabbit 1.6 N/A sold to friend
86 Jetta TD getting raced out AHU 02A
98 Jetta TDI Malone tune stg 3
91 S10 305 TPI T56
86 S10 2WD Prerunner project.


Now offering turbo rebuilds. HP or stock. Any turbo you have i can rebuild it for ya.
Reseal injection pumps PM for det

Reply #44January 21, 2009, 11:05:34 am

Hey

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« Reply #44 on: January 21, 2009, 11:05:34 am »
This

http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=16792

Could be really usefull to drill the 2 holes into the principal lever.

If you don't want to play with shims behind the governor, you will need to "back" the lever about 0.5mm to 1mm since the contact point between the regulator axis sleeve and the principal lever will be ~5mm upward.

If you look carefully (use a sliding gauge to measure) the "new" contact point distance according to the original one!

In the figure 1 bellow the black circle represent the initial contact point. The red circle represent the NEW contact point


figure 1

If you look at it from the side you have something that looks like figure 2 bellow.


Figure 2

You see the contact point distance D1 and D2 are not the same. THere is a difference showed by the two green lines. About 1mm or a little bit less

When drilling you CAN compensate by backing the 2 holes a little bit more in the same direction so that the WHOLE lever will go toward the hydraulic head.

If you don't.. it will work anyway! But if you make an CAD drawing... it would be easy to implement!! And if you do... post the CAD file!!
Jetta 96, VG-mTDi/hybride td, 20psi, IC, 10mm camplate de tdi, .205 et CTN