1.6TD - wheres my injection pump leaking from? (video)

[oblique]

A drop falls at 0:15

https://youtu.be/3yeA7-m0Xoc

I also blow smoke at WOT and my cabin smells of coolant. My dipstick wont stay down...every time I check the oil its pushed up. No signs of any contamination the oil and it doesnt seem to be consuming any.

[TylerDurden]

It might not matter where the drip is from... all the seals are probably ready to go. Best to re-seal the pump now in one shot, unless you like taking the pump out each time the next old seal leaks.

The dipstick might be pushed up by blowby, or just vibrates its way up... check for blowby (and a compression check is worth the time, if you haven't checked in the past year).

The coolant smell in the cabin might be the heater core... you can bypass it in the engine compartment and see if the smell stops. If it stops when bypassed, you need a new core.

[vanbcguy]

Probably the cold start cover. Super common spot. You need to pull the pump to get at that one so you'd be wise to have the whole thing resealed at the same time. You CAN do it yourself though there's a very real risk of converting your working pump to some scrap parts.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

[air-cooled or diesel]

My dipstick wont stay down...every time I check the oil its pushed up. No signs of any contamination the oil and it doesnt seem to be consuming any.

check for vacuum leaks, vac pump, vac lines, vac hard line, And brake booster. booster can rust out, in back too where you just cannt see it, a mirror can help, or running motor, use a stethoscope, or engine stethoscope. various orings can have failed, 1- hard line @ booster, an oring betw master cyl and booster.

[oblique]

Replying to mulitple comments:

What does it cost to get a pump sealed by a service centre? Is calibration required?

I play with motorcycles and have rebuilt engines and carbs - is toying with an IP a huge stretch? Who sells a quality seal kit?

Can I check the state of my vacuum system with a mityvac?

[sgnimj96]

the bosch VE pump is well documented and probably one of the easiest to rebuild.    However,  you'll have to decide for yourself the  much it's worth to you to stop that drip.    There are a lot of options.   Several seals can be replaced with the pump off the engine,  without really taking the pump apart - but the crud that's in the pump stays in the pump.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5fVcsvRPN-wf4p7vkpcHKpBX6BnjTDRB

It's not bad if you've done it before, just messy. You also have or buy or fabricate a few special tools.  Most people find the adventure not worth it.   

[air-cooled or diesel]

Can I check the state of my vacuum system with a mityvac?

mityvac might be a good idea. *see if there are other suggestions. id use a mirror, or stethoscope tool. if you want to try a mityvac, take soft, flex line off top of vacpump, youll want to disconnect small lines coming off; you dont want to suck your vent doors to whereever, cap them off, try some vac on line, and see if brakebooster, and such hold a vacuum.

[oblique]

Ended up finding the shaft seal was leaking. I've just replaced that (along with cold start) with seals from the Bosch kit. If I really push on it I can wiggle the shaft side to side but there was also quite a bit of corrosion on there so I'm hoping that was the problem.

Now I have a different issue: timing the pump. I didn't anticipate the dial indicator adapter and my car's on borrowed time in my folks garage so ordering the adapter from ebay will take me into next week. Can I time it by hand? ear? eye? mouth?

[ORCoaster]

Initial timing should get you by long enough to get it out of the Rents garage.  Simple set of timing with tools for doing the timing belt change.  Once all marked up on the IP and bracket front you can generally twist the pump towards and away from the engine and get it to where it sounds good and starts easy.  Done by ear and eye.

[oblique]

So I ended up using the depth gauge at the end of a digital vernier caliper which worked quite well. After changing the main seal using libbybapa's in-car method and putting the fusbox back together after investigating why my horn didnt work, I drove out of there only to be confronted by a sudden jerk and loss of power with an oscillating engine. It died and I restarted, it would sutge up some, come back down a few times and die. I found that I forgot to button down the clamp that secures the air intake tube to the turbo but this had little effect after fixning. Now it wont even start.

[ORCoaster]

Is the timing belt tensioner tight?  Do you have slack in the belt now?  Are ALL the bolts on the IP tight?  The one on the bottom is key as well as the bracket that holds the IP to the engine.  Surging may have tripped the timing.  Look it over for loose parts and then recheck timing.  Something sounds like it shifted to me.

[oblique]

Timing belt is nice and tight. Maybe too tight? I cant quite twist it 45deg between cam & pump sprocket.

Pump bolts and bracket are nice and tight.

Could this be electrical? We did have the fusebox out completely (quite a few corroded connections) and my wipers werent working just before the motor cut out.

[ORCoaster]

Could be a suspect.  If no voltage at the fuel solenoid then no fuel.  Could be a loose connection along the way.

[vanbcguy]

Fuel starvation would be my first guess. That input shaft seal might not have worked, or you have an air leak somewhere on the vacuum side of the fuel system.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

[oblique]

Will be checking electrical tomorrow and would like to confirm vacuum. Does the tube that goes from the pump to the air intake provide vacuum to the pump to draw fuel?