Ecodiesel with new turbo pump- No fuel at injection lines

[srgtlord]

Im not sure what 8v uses to coat the internals of the pump when he reassembled but I know some people use petroleum jelly. It may take a bit of time for the diesel fuel to break down the coating and to get through all 4 delivery valves. The pump I bought from him took a bit of time to get fuel out of all 4 delivery valves but works great now. I would definitely do business with him again.

[Diesel_Zuk]

He uses Vaseline also. It is a great looking pump, and by no means am blaming him. I still plan on doing business with him in the future as well. I'm gonna give it hell tonight and see if I can get it going.

[theman53]

tow start it

[srgtlord]

You could also add a low pressure electric pump to help "prime" the pump. But as theman stated tow-start it if you can. You will be cranking the engine over to the point of almost burning out your starter otherwise.

[Diesel_Zuk]

I don't have the option to tow start it currently. I'm going to put a mity vac on the injectors lines tonight as per a vw mechanic I know and just talked to. I have enough cars to tow it, but all my family is out of town at the moment. Besides, I haven't set timing yet, I'm not sure it will run right away or not.

[Diesel_Zuk]

So, I completely took all the lines off the back of the pump today, I also took the fuel solenoid plunger out. There is ZERO flow out of the pump with the valves screwed all the way into the pump body. However, I loosen them up, and they spray out like they should. Is there possibly something wrong with the pump not being able to build pressure and spray?

[ORCoaster]

When you say they spray as they should when loosen up does that mean that there is fuel coming out the delivery hole center or out the sides because the thread is loose?  Based on your question I think you mean it means it just comes out the loose part of the thread.  If it is coming out the center when loose then tightening them up shouldn't change anything unless there is a problem with the delivery valves themselves.

Are the little copper washers in the bottom of the hole?  I have left that copper washer off the main plunger once and cranked in the stud and when I went to turn the engine over by hand it would not go from one cylinder to the next.  Just sort of rocked between the two at TDC.

Just thoughts.

[Diesel_Zuk]

Yes it comes put the middle hole. I'm thinking this pump might be really worn out??? Idk what to think. I pulled a vacuum on the delivery valves, even when cranking nothing will come out.

[ORCoaster]

I would take one off and see if all the parts are loose.  There could be something in them that is shutting down the delivery out of them when you make them tight to the head of the IP.  Compressing the spring to much?

I can't find the link I want to the VE Bosch Pump manual that was on here a bit ago.  Only this one:  http://www.vepump.cn/CZB.htm

It barely shows the delivery body, the spring, the valve and the washer.

Edit #2   Try page 17 of this one.  http://www.unge.gq/ftp/biblioteca%20digital/Mec%C3%A1nica%20automotriz/Vw%20Cummins%20Bosch%20Manual%20Diesel%20Fuel%20Injection%20Pump%20Type%20Ve%20Rotary.pdf

Delivery valves in backwards?  Read about the return flow idea.

Here is the one I was thinking of at first:  Much cleaner and readable.   Page 21.
http://www.k-jet.org/files/other/Bosch_VE_Diesel_Injection_Pumps.pdf

[Diesel_Zuk]

The valves are correct, I verified the position versus my old Eco pump valves. I'm wondering if the pump is just too worn to build pressure?

[Diesel_Zuk]

So, to be 100% sure, even if my timing was way way off the pump should still be delivering fuel correct?

[theman53]

yes, it should.

If you have the delivery valves off the eco and they worked swap them to test and see if you get fuel

[TylerDurden]

I'm wondering if the pump is just too worn to build pressure?

It is more likely the full-load screw is out too far.

It might help to post pics or video of the IP.

[Dakotakid]

This is an Eco diesel model.
Therefore, does it still have the fuel-recirculaton loop between the fuel pump and the fuel filter? If you have the extra plumbing between those two points, this system is very time-consuming to restore the normal fuel supply from the fuel tank because of the fuel being pumped back into the filter (actually pressurizes the filter) directly from the pump. Don't believe me? Try blocking the output orifice on the filter once the pump and system is primed. It can't be done with a bare hand....just like a garden hose.

Because it is feeding fuel back into the filter, the system is very slow to draw a new fuel source from the tank. Therefore, air stays in the system.

If you want to keep the recirculation loop intact, you will have to gravity-feed the input line (to the pump) with a hose and gear lube bottle right up to the point at which fuel literally squirts (and makes a hell of a mess) out of the normal "out orifice" on the fuel filter. At THAT point, you can quickly reattach the supply line (to the pump) and roll the engine over and you should successfully achieve prime.

You might also make a plug (with a piece of fuel hose, an old small bolt, and a clamp) to avoid the eventual fuel squirt.

Want to avoid the hassle? Remove the recirculation loop and run a standard Mk. II fuel filter.

[Diesel_Zuk]

I'm running it out of a can, through a filter, to avoid the fuel system problems you stated at this time.