Author Topic: Franken-TD for an '84 Coupe: Like i need another hole in my build thread  (Read 66539 times)

Reply #90May 14, 2014, 09:53:00 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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It's purdy.
Don't know about the one hole HG for a 1.6 but a one hole for a 1.9 is very tough to find.
I had to resort to one from the UK and long story-short, I had to get a second one and a Northern member came through for me. Hopefully he will be able to assist you if needed.

Thanks! I've whiled away many hours prepping stuff. It certainly helps that all the cast aluminum and rusty steel parts got hot tanked and media blasted.

FedEx says I'll have my valve in less than 12 hours. Their tracking shows it still in the UK. Hmmm.

I wonder what it is like to work in such a clean place?
It would make me nervous!

And that's just his garage! his workshop at the machine shop is MUCH cleaner and more organized. You could eat off the floor!

one of his tricks in the garage is that he has a room in his basement half full of rolled up carpet. Brings out chunks of it to work over, and just throws them away when they get dirty.

At the machine shop they actually vacuum and mop up.

Reply #91May 15, 2014, 02:08:54 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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The ALE / early 1Z exhaust valve arrived and is an exact match.

Borrowed my machinist's straight edge and double/triple checked the piston protrusion. If anything my $40 chinese dial indicator was reading a thou high - by feelers i have a fairly consistent protrusion between .023 and .024 inches.

So I'll go see about that one-hole gasket.

Reply #92May 15, 2014, 02:15:04 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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I just posted numbers in the FAQ section for NAPA altrom for the aaz HG, and they are reasonable too...The 1 notch is easy to get for the fiber gasket 1.6. If it is hydro you can use the aaz gasket very easily. If it is mech, you can use the aaz gasket like I did but it is not a bolt on affair.

AAZ hydro head on 1.6 block, adding turbo, so i would prefer the MLS gasket.

Will look at the NAPA parts.

Reply #93May 19, 2014, 12:57:20 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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Just ordered my head gasket at the local napa. 58 and change after freight and taxes to bring it in from portland.



. :Sent by pneumatic tubes

Reply #94May 19, 2014, 05:11:54 pm

Gizmoman

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    AAZ 1.9, HE 200 Turbo, 82 Vanagon, AAP 5 speed
Not a bad price compared to something from the UK
Jim W - 82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9, Mild head port, Cummins Holset HE200WE turbo, Frozen Boost WAIC, 10" Charge-pipe intake, Ball bearing IM shaft, Giles Pump, 215/70R16, AAP 5 speed Trans. 22 lbs max boost

Reply #95May 19, 2014, 06:28:28 pm

theman53

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Just ordered my head gasket at the local napa. 58 and change after freight and taxes to bring it in from portland.



. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
The local napa did mine for 40 shipped. 29.00 for the gasket alone. I thought the napa online price was better than what they got you for.

Reply #96May 22, 2014, 06:54:31 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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Picked up my rebuilt injectors from Goff Diesel Injection in SLC today. They were ready a week ago, it just took me this long to remember to stop by.

$190ish for parts & labor & freight for non-fancy genuine bosch DN0SD293 nozzles and shim to 155 bar.

Gave me a free bottle of stanadyne 'junior' additive.

Some day when money is less of an object i might spring for GTD nozzles, or maybe I'll try and find dual-spring AAZ injectors and lines, and have those rebuilt.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2014, 06:57:56 pm by TimpanogosSlim »

Reply #97May 23, 2014, 04:58:37 am

vanbcguy

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Re:
« Reply #97 on: May 23, 2014, 04:58:37 am »
There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

Bryn

1994 Jetta - AHU M-TDI - Jezebel Jetta
2004 Jetta Wagon - 1.8T - Blitzen

Reply #98May 23, 2014, 03:44:59 pm

theman53

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There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk


I agree. Although there is a difference between the GTD nozzle and the others. It costs tons more, but I think for the extra fuel that goes through them VW designed them to be a little easier on the precup.

Reply #99May 23, 2014, 09:02:07 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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There isn't much in the way of power gains to be had by changing nozzles on the IDI engines. The stock nozzles are huge, they are not a restriction at all.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk


I agree. Although there is a difference between the GTD nozzle and the others. It costs tons more, but I think for the extra fuel that goes through them VW designed them to be a little easier on the precup.

yeah, I am not going for ultimate power or ultimate coal rolling. I'll probably be fine with what i've got.

Anyway, lesson learned today: Just buy a mk2 im shaft pulley. having already broken the flange off of mine, I filed a lot of that down, realized how long that was taking, and used my dremel and a half dozen 1.25" carbide cutting wheels to remove the rest of it. then filed, sanded, etc.

Whatever. I should have just bought the mk2 version months ago. But now the green paint is curing on it, so it's done.

Also sprayed the water fitting for the DS end of the head green, and fixed the paint job on the heater hard line.

Maybe tomorrow I'll go install the im shaft pulley and water pump and associated pulleys on the block.

Haven't heard from the machine shop whether my head is ready. I guess Tuesday I'll go find out for myself. i saw my machinist friend today (used his drill press for an hour or so, helped him a couple times with the muscle car he is building for someone on the side) but he isn't in the head business and didn't mention anything.

Also, I forgot to go to NAPA to get my head gasket. d'oh.

Reply #100May 24, 2014, 06:17:01 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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since I'm done painting pulleys and sprockets, i got the IM shaft pulley, water pump, and water pump pulleys installed.

Very little else to do on the engine until i get the head back.

I suppose i should get to some of the other tasks, like the cv joints that need gear oil cleaned out and new boots.

I'm pretty sure i don't really want the control arms installed until the engine is mounted and the axles are installed, right?

Want to clean some of the gunge off of the transmission before putting the mounts back on.

i really should dig into the alternator and install the tach wire. Probably clean up the housing while I'm in there, check the brushes. i wanted a mk2 alt at first but eh. budget cuts.

Some parts of the shift linkage are soaking in naphtha having soaked in carb dip for a week. I should pull 'em out, scrub them down with a good detergent, and then probably bake them at 500f to make sure there's not still carb dip in all the pores (ask how i know about this problem) before priming, spraying black, and reassembling in car. I think there's still one piece of the shift linkage in the car that i want to remove, clean, paint, and put new bushings in.

There's a guy out here who will rent me a 2000psi (weak) power washer for $15/day. I figure i can pre-treat the engine bay with a water based degreaser and hook it up to the washing machine hot water line and get that area cleaned up, and i should probably get some por15 for the battery tray (not bad) though i will probably just wire brush it and apply 'rust converter'.

Reply #101May 28, 2014, 10:54:09 pm

TimpanogosSlim

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Got the head back today. Bill wasn't too bad.

So this happened:



It's not really bolted up. I still need to block that coolant passage. The head bolts are in but only as far as i can turn them with thumb and forefinger.

I botched 3 of the holes for valve cover studs. I am probably going to just cringe and enlarge the holes in the valve cover. the really bad ones are on the back anyway.

About as disappointed in myself as I've ever been, about that. I thought I'd been both clever and careful. Oh well.

I clearly bought the wrong studs for the intake manifold and will have to get longer ones.

drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe, shoulda done it about 5mm further from the head. gonna have to file a notch into the intake mani. ugh.

Oh and i managed to lose one of the teeny tiny internal pieces of the compression fitting for my probe. I know the aircraft spruce product is popular but i went with sensor connection (inconel jacketed probe hand made in the USA and tested to 2ms reaction time. they actually sell a "diesel sport" model. Which i bought.). I'll have to see about another compression fitting. maybe i can find one that is lower profile?

Yes, this is a muscle car garage. The El Camino on the left is the owner's labor of love. The Mustang on the right is the side work that pays for his labor of love. Well, one of them. There always seems to be at least one and sometimes two mustangs hanging around Roger's place. He's gotten a reputation - because when someone pays him to build a muscle car he builds it as though it were his own. He just wishes more of them were Oldsmobiles.
« Last Edit: May 28, 2014, 10:57:30 pm by TimpanogosSlim »

Reply #102May 29, 2014, 05:13:01 am

theman53

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Couldn't you find a vane style vacuum pump?

Reply #103May 29, 2014, 09:32:10 am

TimpanogosSlim

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Couldn't you find a vane style vacuum pump?

I didn't look very hard? It fell to budget cuts. the diaphragm pump works. I know the vane pump is better but i don't "need" it.

Reply #104May 29, 2014, 05:08:25 pm

Gizmoman

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    AAZ 1.9, HE 200 Turbo, 82 Vanagon, AAP 5 speed
All my probes are Sensor Connection as well. You'll have no issue getting a new ferrule from them - great guys - good stuff as well.
Jim W - 82 Vanagon Westy - AAZ 1.9, Mild head port, Cummins Holset HE200WE turbo, Frozen Boost WAIC, 10" Charge-pipe intake, Ball bearing IM shaft, Giles Pump, 215/70R16, AAP 5 speed Trans. 22 lbs max boost