Franken-TD for an '84 Coupe: Like i need another hole in my build thread

[theman53]

If you haven't bought the por 15, save the money. Buy rust bullet. Much better product, most will say "it is the same thing" but it isn't. Rust bullet has a deal on their website saying any of the 329 rust products out there they will go head to head with...But winner gets to post results on their advertising and loser pays for the independent testing. From what I found por 15 and Rustoleum took the challenge and both had/have lawsuits against Rust Bullet saying they shouldn't be able to bad mouth their product online, because they lost big. I found somewhere that Rust Bullet held up to over 14,000 hours of salt spray test. That and I have used both and the rust bullet is imho a much better product.

[Dakotakid]

As stated, the Rust Bullet is tops.
The battery area will need it applied from underneath (as much as you can reach) as well.
Last year, I applied this stuff to the pinch welds, floor sheet metal, and into the inside of the fenders as a rust preventative measure on four of my cars. Then, applied paint above THAT.

If you carefully open the can and not distort the lid, it will reseal and I have had it store for over a year without any problem. Neat stuff....wear some eye protection.....and, no, it ain't cheap. But, amazing sheeot!

Added: This product will also work to solidify rusted areas which have gone soft. It is best to sand or wire brush or sand blast first though. Your car could definitely benefit from it (looking at photo on page one). However, you don't need to get it done right now. You have some time before winter.

[TimpanogosSlim]

well, I have the por-15 starter kit, so I'll be using that. I'll look into rust bullet when i run out.

[TimpanogosSlim]

So this happened today:



Turns out it's not hard to just tip a 1.6D from an engine stand right into the back of a '94 land cruiser, with your bare hands, provided that the cruiser isn't lifted much.

Much later in the day a friend who's actually done a clutch before came over and helped me install the new clutch kit (LUK) and get the transmission mated up.

I even had the presence of mind to clean the timing notch on the flywheel with brake kleen and paint it with a glow-in-the-dark paint that should glow bright green. Worst case scenario it'll still look like a timing mark.

I had previously taken my flywheel over to the machine shop and had the old guy who runs the place check it out. He said it was perfect.

I seem to have misplaced the baggie that all of the washers and spacers got into. I haven't been dipping into it much because I've generally been installing brand new wave washers on hardware as i go. I seem to be missing one of the bolts that attaches the transmission to the block as well.

But provisionally I'm ready to put this thing back into the car. I figure i can replace any one bolt on the trans at a time in-situ.

[gnavs]

Great build so far! 

[TimpanogosSlim]

Thanks! I'm itching to get the engine & trans back into the car but weather hasn't been cooperative and i don't have a covered work area.

Finally tracked down the block heater i wanted. As recommended by a friend who used to drive a mk1 rabbit diesel as a pizza man in this town, I'm putting a ZeroStart lower radiator hose heater on the bypass hose between the water pump housing and the head. He said that was what worked best for him, so, I'll give it a shot. Worst case scenario it's less invasive than the freeze plug heaters.

[TimpanogosSlim]

At long last there was a convergence of fair weather and me being able to drag myself out of bed early enough to coordinate borrowing the hoist.

Kicker is, there's now a disabled el camino in my driveway. After we unloaded the hoist from the back, the old girl wouldn't start. Seems to be the starter. Roger says he has a rebuilt starter ready to go in it, but for whatever reason he wasn't able to come over and install it tonight.

It was slightly trickier than i anticipated to get it pulled up into the left and right mounts without assistance but it's in and mounted right left and rear now. Couldn't figure out where I'd put the front mount until it was dark out.

I'm now concerned that there may be interference between the passenger side axle shaft and my turbo oil drain. I may have to figure out a new drain on the turbo that will allow the hose to hug the back of the block a bit better.

I'm probably going to fab my own bracket to mount the fuel filter to the front wall of the rain tray. We'll see.

as expected the air intake plumbing all lines up just fine. That area is pretty crowded so the charge piping is going to have to go around the other side, probably.

[TimpanogosSlim]

More progress.

The IP is in and sort of finger tight on the mountings. Injection lines too, after spraying some degreaser and then compressed air through them.

Found another annoying aspect of my frankenpump. The weird hard line that runs behind the LDA hits the clamp on the #1 and #2 lines if the pump is rotated toward the engine. Which means the clamp will have to come off if i have to rotate the pump that way. Or the hard line will have to get cut off. This idea has some merit. The zexel pump must have just been taller on the banjo end of the hard line, which would explain the 3 nipples at the other end. This whole thing is a clusterf@&$ and i hope it works.

I think i can bolt the VW linkage bracket to the frankenpump with a bit of a spacer. I may yet drill and tap for the 2nd bolt on the bracket, the one on the passenger side.

I'm considering Edelbrock's #8007 ball stud, I think with some other misc bits from the hardware store and/or junk pile i can bolt it to the knuckle on the zexel/mitsu linkage.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8007/10002/-1

Took apart my alternator for cleaning. Found the slip rings well worn. I think, given budgetary concerns, I may just clean it up and put it back together and put a reman alternator on the to-buy list for the future.

[TimpanogosSlim]

Yeah, this might just work.



Oh and yeah, I can verify that the ZeroStart / Philips / Temro model 3200001 heater is a perfect fit for that bypass hose. And it looks like a MUCH better design than the Kat's heaters. i believe O'Reilly auto parts stores sell this one in the USA. I got mine off ebay at a savings of maybe $5.

The body of this heater is a single zinc casting. The coolant mixture is not directly exposed to the heating element, which is inserted into the casting as a ring around the coolant passage. Has a thermostat too. 375w rating.

That tab on the zexel/mitsu linkage is probably gonna fall victim to a cutoff wheel on my dremel.

[Gizmoman]

Looking good!
FWIW, I tried the yellow tubing on the injector returns and found it to leak when it gets hot. Other's apparently have been OK.
I'm waiting for new stock hose to arrive this week.

Possibly my engine bay gets a lot toastier than a front engine vehicle.

[TimpanogosSlim]

hm, well, i hope it doesn't leak.

After i bought this stuff from mcmaster, i noted that hardware stores now carry a pinkish "micro fuel line" product that might work for the returns.

they don't have it in 1/4" for the bigger lines tho.

went ahead and bought that ball stud via jegs. fingers crossed.

[Gizmoman]

hm, well, i hope it doesn't leak.

After i bought this stuff from mcmaster, i noted that hardware stores now carry a pinkish "micro fuel line" product that might work for the returns.

they don't have it in 1/4" for the bigger lines tho.

went ahead and bought that ball stud via jegs. fingers crossed.

Tried the pink micro-line as well - nope. Fits tight, feels tough as nails. Go for a two hour drive and pop the hood - soft, weak and microscopic pinholes foggin the bay.

I'm down right now waiting for the proven, stock 3mm fabric braided OD type to show up via UPS. Ugly, yes - cool looking, priority #9

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Diesel+Fuel+Hose&osCsid=554cff156eb60aafe6d8448b66c1fe72&x=23&y=11 - I bought two, 1 meter lengths cause it's cheap yet tough to find.

[TimpanogosSlim]

I've given up on intercooling for the time being. Plumbed hot pipe.

Since the charged air port is on the top of the turbo i have, and it's small, i'm using two 35mm 45 degree silicone angles, a 35mm aluminum U-bend, and a really nifty 36mm aluminum coupler with a 1/8 NPT port in it that is marketed as a radiator hose temperature sensor adapter.

This will allow me to install water/meth injection. I have most of a slightly old CoolingMist kit (progressive controller installs in dash as a boost gauge), a 60psi agricultural-spec 12v wash/spray pump that will probably work, and a 3 gallon Ace Rotomold conical-bottom tank that i can likely mount in the trunk. I'd just have to suss out how to plumb a water line from the trunk to the engine compartment, and where to mount the pump (perhaps under the radiator where i won't hear it?) - i might need a smaller nozzle. I'm unclear on which CM nozzles i have, but have an itchy suspicion that on a 1.6 with a k03 i may want a Devil's Own D01 (about as small as they get)

That should help me keep the IATs and EGTs down in the summer and may give me a little extra power too. I'm not going to hook it up before i know the engine is broken in, so it will probably wait for spring time.

Went to a junk yard today and got a gasser 1983 jetta cluster and some other bits and bobs (including the appropriate connector for the PCV warmer). Did the tach modification for the alternator signal, and yeah my alternator does have a W terminal.

It appears likely that the 83 and 84 jetta clusters have the same flex circuit on the back, the major difference being that my diesel cluster has the fuel gauge under the tach, temperature gauge under the LEDs -- and the gasser cluster has fuel and temperature gauges under the tach and a probably dead LCD clock under the LEDs. My tentative plan is to pull the clock, temperature, and fuel gauges out of the diesel cluster, install the temperature and fuel gauges from the diesel under the tach, and reassemble with nothing under the LEDs, or perhaps some kind of blanking plate, or maybe a digital gauge (say the volts & amps digital shunt meter i bought for the glow system?).

I also bet it wouldn't be tremendously difficult to get a 2nd temperature gauge working, though I'm unsure how to wire it, or to what. I wonder if there is an oil temperature sender that will directly drive a 1983 VDO water temperature gauge. And exactly where i would stick it.

[samuraij]

Love your build thread. I've checked it countless times while prepping my own build...

In answer to your VDO gauge question, I believe you can find an oil temp sender that will work. You need to know the gauge sweep in degrees (90, 270, etc) and you need to know the temp your gauge has as a max. Find a sending unit that fits your specs and it *should* work.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/vdo-gauges/department/gauges-accessories/part-type/gauge-sending-units/gauge-type-application/oil-temperature?N=400267%2B4294951097%2B4294927084%2B4294944919

[TimpanogosSlim]

Thanks for the kind words. I'm having a hard time not being sick of the whole thing. Limits my ability to go get dirty in the hot sun.

The other thought i had was an intake air temperature sensor, which for now could go in the coupler since it's already tapped, and in the future i could add it to the intake manifold.

not important though. I'll leave the gauge in the cluster and just fasten it with some plastic or fiber washers to insulate it from the pads on the flex circuit. for now.