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#120
by
vanbcguy
on 31 May, 2014 13:26
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Yeah the pin on the cold start handle was attached to the original idle speed control lever via a rod. Actually come to think of it the whole governor spring assembly must have been changed too as the idle speed lever is gone and that had its own spring.
The solenoid on the LDA probably allows the LDA to be disabled for emissions reasons. Again never used on VW so hard to say.
Hoping everything runs well!
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
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#121
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 31 May, 2014 16:39
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ah, and my zexel LDA lacks said lever. ok.
Well, hopefully this will end up working out.
The accelerator linkage is going to be interesting. oh well.
fyi the vw bosch banjo bolts are M12x1.5 - just ordered an m12x1.5 double banjo bolt and an m12 3/8" barb fitting for same. So the fuel fittings are nearly sorted.
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#122
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 06 Jun, 2014 20:05
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Not a whole lot of progress lately. Been trying to catch up on maintenance on the daily driver.
I made my fancy glow harness yesterday. It's all 10ga black insulation but the order on my excessive fuse block is the same. Should be ok.
Did most of the harness for the solenoid i'm using too. Didn't mess with any of the 4ga wire yet because I'd prefer to do that when the engine is mounted so i can cut to exact length. I expect to shorten and reterminate the lead i made to go from the OE glow wire to the solenoid w/ in-line fuse, but everything is crimped AND soldered. I haven't decided where to mount the fuse block or solenoid yet either - again, I'd rather have all the accessories mounted first.
Got my banjo fittings. They will be less than ideal but probably work.
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#123
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 22 Jun, 2014 00:44
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finally got the head bolted on. I had planned to get the engine mated to the transmission and back into the vehicle today, so as to get my engine out of my friend's garage, but my helper turned out to have a prior engagement that then turned out to take 4 hours longer than initially planned. Plus the car was a bigger pain in the ass than i expected.
Sprayed the head gasket on both sides with copper spray-a-gasket. I thought this was a miracle product until it turned out that it would be a miracle if i could spray for more than 5 seconds at a time without the nozzle clogging. I don't know what the deal is because a single squirt of brake kleen would clear it every time.
To seal off that water passage on the mechanical lifter block i cut two little circles of some high-temperature 1/16" silicone pad i have, stuck them together with permatex ultra copper, and put a dollop of the same on the block and on the top of the pad, where it meets the head.
I let the head sit on the block with just it's own weight (bolts finger tight) for an hour or so and then followed the torque procedure in the book.
Of course, immediately after this i saw the "do not use on head gaskets" statement on the tube of silicone. C'est la vie. I bet it'll be fine.
I had to enlarge some of the holes in the g60 valve cover and pop out two of the spacers from the vc gasket to clear my 3 poorly centered studs on the head. I can't recall ever being this disappointed with myself. I thought I'd been both meticulous and clever when i located and drilled those holes. Thankfully the really bad ones are on the back where nobody will see them.
So then i went home and set about getting the bolted-to-car bits of the shift linkage reassembled (repainted parts, new bushings from 4crawler) and the new control arms and moog ball joints installed.
It turns out that i neglected to acquire replacements for the class 10.9 M10 bolts for the ball joint clamps.
They were rusty as hell when i took them out and i literally had to beat them out with a hammer and a rod to get the original (bent) control arms off of the car. The passenger side even had the original riveted-in ball joint. And the boot was totally fine. Joint itself, eh, a little stiff.
Wire wheel, m10x1.5 threading die, wd40 to the rescue. you'd never guess just how frequently you'll reach for a tap & die kit until you have one on hand. This is how quick projects get drug out into long ones.
I also hadn't anticipated that i would need to put a jack under each ball joint to get them fully seated. N00b problems i guess.
And then it turns out that somehow a lug bolt went missing. You'd think i wouldn't have to have an argument with the guy at autozone to find out that they don't have them in stock, but you'd be wrong. Actually, the first one probably did have a bolt that would work in stock, but if i continued my conversation with the autozone representative it would have likely gotten vulgar.
Why do these clowns ask if it's for the front or rear?
Why do they even have the for-steel-wheels-only non-stock 21mm bolts in the computer when the 24mm bolts for alloys don't cause a problem with steel wheels?
Which is what i bought at O'Reilly.
Autozone has really gone downhill, and O'Reilly has taken the steaming turd that was Checker and turned it into an outstanding chain of auto parts stores.
But it's progress i guess. And i haven't yet managed to rent a power washer to clean out the engine bay anyway. My friend just, justifiably, wants to not be tripping over my engine stand.
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#124
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 24 Jun, 2014 23:10
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3rd round of parts turned up from autohausAZ, so i installed intake and exhaust manifolds permanent like.
I used no additional sealers. reinz gaskets. the intake seems to be metal & elastomer, the exhaust are metal plus some kind of crushable whatzit. I was slightly annoyed that it appears that they should be sold in LH and RH styles but vaguely recall reading that it doesn't matter if they are bolted on with the metal side or crushable side against the head.
Also put in my new oil pressure switches.
I met a guy who does custom exhaust and charge pipe in his garage at his house a while back. bought an intercooler from him.
I took the turbo back off the exhaust manifold and my tentative plan is to put a motorcycle cone air filter on the 2" race pipe on my intake manifold and do my initial timing as NA with no downpipe, drive the car over to his place and have him modify my AHU downpipe so it meets with the existing (replacement) exhaust, and make me some aluminized steel charge pipes to mate with the IC i bought from him. with a post-IC 1/8 NPT bung for water/meth injection. since i have a system i can install.
I might have him fab up a 2.25" downpipe in hopes of mating it with a 2.25" TT catback at some point in the future.
I also degreased most of the transmission casing yesterday. there's no grime like diesel grime. especially when previous owners apparently didn't give a damn about oil leaks. for example there was no gasket on the speedo cable port.
And i discovered that the lead from the battery to the starter has already been upgraded to 0/1 gauge. I wonder who i have to thank for that. whoever did it also has an obsession with covering things with corrugated split loom tubing.
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#125
by
Dakotakid
on 25 Jun, 2014 00:35
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No gasket on the speedometer cable insert?
This will be interesting to see if you have a 5th gear or not. Did you renew trans oil? Was it really clean or less than clean coming out? (No, I have not read all the pages of your stuff.)
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#126
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 25 Jun, 2014 10:56
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I bought it as a non-running car. The guy i bought it from told me that the transmission had new oil in it, which it sure seemed to have when i drained it.
He said it drove well but had to be tow started. At the point where he decided to sell it he had already started pulling the engine.
he said the fluids were drained to pull the engine but when he decided to sell he had the gear oil so he put it in.
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#127
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 15 Jul, 2014 18:59
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Back from 2 weeks in the PNW.
No real news. Did outer CV boots today. Determined that one of the inners is about to go and the other is no spring chicken either, so i ordered inner boot kits and a lower shift lever boot from bus depot (who's price on that lower boot is 1/2 what GAP and other vendors want for it).
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#128
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 16 Jul, 2014 16:46
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Successful ghetto rigging of an old "Defi" brand EGT gauge that would look more at home in some boy racer's honda prelude.
I paid $35ish for this gauge on ebay, came w/o sensor or sensor harness.
i hacked up a connector with the same size sockets and insulated them with heatshrink. they are on there pretty good but i think i will also ziptie the pigtail to the gauge clamp.
With a butane lighter in an air conditioned room with a cross breeze from a fan i can make it rise to over 1000c, take off the flame and it gently falls, stick it in ice water and it drops like a rock. Seems to work fine.
I sort of wish i had avoided the hassle and just bought a reasonably priced gauge from sensor connection or aircraft spruce, but eh, this works, and should work well.
I've got a metal panel with 3 52mm gauge holes in it that will fit where the stereo goes. modifying the console to put the stereo down by my knee.
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#129
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 17 Jul, 2014 00:53
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So i went ahead and cut a hole in the inside fender wall by the passenger side frame rail so i could stick the mk2 TD airbox there.
It turns out that without removing the washer bottle bracket and cutting a bigger hole i'm not going to be able to mount it with the elbow thing attached. So I'll go without the elbow thing.
This all didn't line up as well as i'd hoped, but eh. Tomorrow my POR15 kit shows up and i can protect the edges of the metal i cut, and I'll slice a length of vacuum line or something to pretty up the raggedy hole.
I noted that there's a hole in the frame rail that lines up with a hole in the bottom of the airbox. And guess who has a really nice metric nutsert setter and full selection of m5 to m12 chromate steel nutserts. I think I know how I'll be mounting the bottom of the airbox. If it needs a water drain hole, I'll add one.
The AHU inlet hose mates up fine with the mk2 airbox and then runs right into the fuel filter.
Gonna have to relocate the fuel filter. Might attach it to the core support. Have to see if it fits between the airbox and the front of the strut tower.
I think tomorrow i will get a tie rod end puller and do the boot on the passenger side tie rod. Then i can safely clean the engine compartment.
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#130
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 18 Jul, 2014 01:01
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Factory hole in frame:
M8 nutsert installed:
Blurry proof of concept:
Needs a fender washer.
Discovered seized tie rod end on the passenger side. And the boot where the steering column meets the rack is shredded too. Gonna call busdepot in the morning and see if they can add the boot to my order. Might buy a TRE from them as well or might source one locally. Didn't manage to replace the rack boot on the passenger side yet. Don't want to remove the end until i have the new one in hand.
Discovered that the alternator harness was pretty much shredded a while back. the insulation has long since failed on the power leads, and the ends were badly frayed. It was unclear what gauge the original wires were so i used 2 leads of 8awg that i had on hand. the alternator end is crimped and soldered into the original connector, need a new ring for the other end. a few other ends in that harness were in a bad way too.
It's not as supple as the original but it will last a while. Gonna hit up an auto parts store tomorrow for spiral wrap and a ring terminal.
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#131
by
damac
on 18 Jul, 2014 15:45
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Warning I did the same thing on 2 mk1's because all I had was a mk2 airbox. I had custom larger alternator and was working with what I had and without thinking twice I cut those holes in the fenders. I had actually planned to do a different swap later but I got hurt and life got in the way.
Well I drove the car in a sudden downpoor of rain one day and the car started stumbling on the freeway and then it clicked. I slowed down and barely rev'd the car until I could get off the freeway and my air filter was soaked with the box and past the air filter.
I ended up using a flap of stuff laying around and screwed it over that hole I cut and left the little elbow off and zip tied it the best I could and its been ok since.
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#132
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 18 Jul, 2014 15:52
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Wonderful. OK.
Maybe i'll chop the whole protrusion off the side of the airbox.
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#133
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 19 Jul, 2014 23:24
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Went over to a friend's house tonight and he kindly braised my 3/8 npt bung onto my oil pan. I'll wire wheel it with my angle grinder and repaint it . . . soon.
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#134
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 22 Jul, 2014 19:58
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Turned out ok. need hose clamps, and i can trim another 3/4 inch or so off the hose: