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#75
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 04 May, 2014 14:47
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i think i need to find a sunny spot in the back yard where it can bake in the sun for a few days.
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#76
by
Gizmoman
on 04 May, 2014 16:47
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Looks sweet.
Try the oven at 350 - ?
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#77
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 04 May, 2014 17:18
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Is that what's recommended for spray enamel? Seems kinda high.
. :Sent by pneumatic tubes
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#78
by
theman53
on 04 May, 2014 18:27
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depends on the brand, I had one high temp ceramic that I think was baked at 450f. Yes, pre married status I always had something in the kitchen that "didn't belong" the wife said. Apparently an atv carb in the sink and header cooking in the oven were not normal uses for the kitchen???
I would think you can do cooler temps for longer times. Say 200f for several hours instead of 350f for 30 minutes. Read what it says on the can and go that route. Search if you don't have the can any longer.
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#79
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 04 May, 2014 20:46
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huh. not finding anything online for john deere blitz black, though the MSDS stresses that ovens should have a fresh air circulator to prevent explosive conditions.
I did about an hour and a half at 250f tonight. I didn't see anything on the can earlier but I'll go read it again tomorrow.
the instructions are a little odd - stating that each layer should be allowed to reach a tacky stage before spraying another layer, and that additional layers should be applied "before 30 minutes or after 36 hours have passed" or something like that.
it got several layers. I'm not really in a hurry and passive curing by sunlight should be enough. But I'm anxious for it to be ready anyway.
Went ahead and spent $110 on shifter linkage parts from missinglinkz. hope it pays off.
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#80
by
mcpook
on 05 May, 2014 17:24
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Bummer bout the valve. I really don't know the history on those other than they came with the parts package I acquired and they looked to fit the bare prothe AAZ head. I assumed the previous owner's plan was to marry them up. Apologies if I gave the impression that they were in good condition.
I'm guessing that those intake and exhaust that I included all came from the same head. That's the easiest answer, right? If that is a reasonable assumption, you can rule out the 1.6 hydro as being the donor as the intake valve faces are too big for that application. So, you are looking for either an 8mm AAZ or an 8mm TDI. Do they make 8mm TDI? Not sure, but since it is an AAZ head I'd look for AAZ valves with 8mm stems. Just searched on Autohaus and didn't find them. They have the AAZ valve guides in 7mm though, which is a bit troubling as I thought the 8mm AAZ were more common than 7mm AAZ.
Looks like your build is coming along nicely. Valve cover looks sharp. Mine build has slowed to a crawl as I'm out in the garden and yard since the weather has warmed. Good Luck.
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#81
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 06 May, 2014 17:37
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Today i took stock of the hardware, decided which bits should be replaced, made a list, padded a few items a bit, and hit up my favorite fastener store.
$5, for a bunch of 12.9 black oxide socket head cap screws, nuts, bolts, etc. Not bad at all.
Then i took a bunch of little brackets and stuff to a wire wheel, then dremel wire wheel, and then primed. Mostly parts of the shifter linkage, etc. so much stuff that was original zinc chromate plated had gone rusty anyway. So what else to do but paint it black.
well, it's possible i could get stuff re-plated, but paint is cheap.
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#82
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 07 May, 2014 19:52
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no real progress today, other than a bunch of parts showed up, and i called the bosch guy who said, "uh, yeah, those aren't popping too good".
I asked what he'd charge me for nozzles, and will find out tomorrow, but $50ish shipped from gowesty sounds good to me.
goetze rings look perfect - the ones i looked at anyway.
Verified that, yes, I can get Rotella T1 straight 30 weight dino oil in a gallon jug at wallyborg for $16. And then dropped $27 on 5 quarts of castrol edge 0w40 for the Mk5.
New valve gets here tomorrow.
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#83
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 08 May, 2014 20:22
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Machinist rejected new valve for being almost 2mm too short.
With a few heat and quench cycles (propane torch vs. water) and a lot of noise i was able to extract the downpipe from the rest of the exhaust system.
Re-hung the center section with a new cloverleaf type hanger. I think there is one torn in the back too but that is too close to the ground right now.
Extracted selector lever from shift rod, shaved off 30 years of grease w/ pocket knife, dropped in can of carburetor dip.
Drilled out the rivets on the shift rod bearing assembly, scraped off lots of dead grease, dropped both halves in the bucket of carburetor dip.
Noted a fair amount of wear on the relay shaft where the bottom of the relay shaft bracket lost it's lower bushing long ago. Considering hitting up the vortex for a better relay shaft. If I'd noticed this sooner i would have bought a normal short shift kit instead of the bolt-on version.
I had previously wire wheeled and primed the 'protective plate' for the lever w/ ball thing (diagram just says 'lever'), the relay lever (ball studs and inner diameter masked off), and the relay lever bracket, so those got a coat of black paint tonight.
Noted that the uro-parts bushing kit includes bushings for the relay lever that have a bit of play on their OD. Will shim with aluminum tape.
Need to hit the funky relay lever bolt with the wire wheel.
Noted with small degree of alarm that I'm not 100% sure where i put the new ball and matching ball-less lever. i'll figure out where they have run off to tomorrow. I had them just the other day when the stuff from missing linkz turned up. I cut the rubber ball off but didn't get around to installing the new one.
Need to pull the relay shaft bracket off of the car and give it the same treatment as the selector lever and shift rod bearing assembly.
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#84
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 09 May, 2014 17:58
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Got my RMA# for the valve that is wrong.
Cut up the old downpipe to sell it.
Froze my wrist pins and heated my pistons and assembled rods together with pistons using permatex ultra-slick.
there's got to be a trick to installing circlips. 4 of them went right in, the other 4 i fought with. Dunno what i'm doing wrong half the time.
Bolted the block to the engine stand adapter again, wrapped it up in the engine bag again, took all the bottom end engine stuff over to my friend's garage where we'll be assembling the bottom end tomorrow.
I've watched him build probably 2 dozen engines at the machine shop but i want him looking over my shoulder to tell me if I'm doing something stupid, since this is my first build. out of respect for his employer he won't be putting a wrench to the engine during the build at all. And i totally respect that.
oh, I found the new relay lever ball and the relay lever, pressed together on my bench vise, tossed in bag with the rest of the (clean) shifter parts. Too rainy today to extract the selector shaft bracket for cleaning - I did manage to change the oil in my mk5 and only got soaked just as i was putting the belly pan back on.
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#85
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 10 May, 2014 20:12
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#86
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 12 May, 2014 22:39
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Well I just ordered my $12 exhaust valve with $30 shipping from RockAuto.
I'll probably cry if it doesn't work.
Also bought another can of green paint for the last few bits. The guys at the tractor store recognized me. I showed them shots of the block. I'll have to stop in with the jetta when it's running and registered.
Previously i had said i was using vintage john deere green -- I was mistaken. I am using the current john deere green as it is more gloss / less flat.
one thing, when i used my new, not the cheapest but still chinese dial indicator, i came up with a max protrusion of .025" - which would mean i need a one hole head gasket. I'm in disbelief. I need to find my feeler gauges and try the straight edge method.
didn't work on the jetta at all today, went to a junk yard. Bought a fistfull of odds and ends for my fiat but found no vw bits i wanted.
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#87
by
Gizmoman
on 13 May, 2014 06:06
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It's purdy.
Don't know about the one hole HG for a 1.6 but a one hole for a 1.9 is very tough to find.
I had to resort to one from the UK and long story-short, I had to get a second one and a Northern member came through for me. Hopefully he will be able to assist you if needed.
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#88
by
theman53
on 13 May, 2014 14:12
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I just posted numbers in the FAQ section for NAPA altrom for the aaz HG, and they are reasonable too...The 1 notch is easy to get for the fiber gasket 1.6. If it is hydro you can use the aaz gasket very easily. If it is mech, you can use the aaz gasket like I did but it is not a bolt on affair.
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#89
by
Dakotakid
on 14 May, 2014 18:22
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I wonder what it is like to work in such a clean place?
It would make me nervous!
