Time to start assembling 1.5 TD / 1.9L Franken Diesel. - page 11 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #150 by Jetmugg on 12 Aug, 2013 06:55
• I fired the engine for the first time last night.  Here are a few short videos.  In the first video, the diesel noise you hear at the very beginning is from my Mercedes, which is being used to provide jump start boost to the battery in the Rampage.  It started pretty easily, but does have a bit of a fuel leak (I didn't have the right injector loop return lines), and an oil leak around the valve cover.
  
   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNp8WfyXBjs
  
  Here's a video of the first drive around the block, including all the excess fuel and oil which had run down onto the street.  Note the satisfying black puff of smoke.
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiFDCbwFsMA
  
  Last video for now - returning from the initial drive...
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLIB_fcg0Is
  
  There are plenty of details to sort out, but at least it's a runner now.  It seems to have PLENTY of power, much more than any Rabbit I've ever driven, and more punch than my Mercedes 190 2.5 Turbo / 5 speed setup.
• #151 by theman53 on 12 Aug, 2013 07:21
• Awesome that yours sounds like it revs like mine. I and the turbo sounds almost the same at lower speeds like that. Mine misses at start up as I did some stuff with the compression. Once warm I am sure you will have no issues like me, as on the return trip it sounded fine.
• #152 by RustyCaddy on 12 Aug, 2013 07:44
• Like the man said in vid2..."bad ass"
  
   
• #153 by RabbitJockey on 12 Aug, 2013 09:37
• sounds healthy and bad ass!!!!
  
  also sounds like a record breaker, or better yet a record setter.
• #154 by Jetmugg on 12 Aug, 2013 10:42
• Once I get some of these leaks under control - by installing the correct injector loop lines, and a new valve cover gasket, I'll get it out and run it a bit more.
  
  I will also be running a "stack" type exhaust up through the bed of the truck, trying to keep the black smoke out from under the chassis.
  
  I was very pleased that there was not a lot of blow-by.  I ran a Moroso "puke tank" fed by a clear plastic hose from the valve cover breather to the tank.  There was a little bit of oily residue in the tube, but no liquid condensed in the puke tank.
  
  Goran at Dieselmeken watched the video and said that I might want to increase the advance a bit, but to let the engine break in longer before messing with it.
  
  The engine felt very strong, and is more than willing to rev up.  I'll definitely keep the board posted as to the record attempt.
  
  Steve.
• #155 by Gizmoman on 12 Aug, 2013 21:56
• All I can say is Wow
  Even backwards  - woW
• #156 by Jetmugg on 13 Aug, 2013 07:49
• Thanks, Guys. 
  
  I still have a considerable list of things to get done over the next 3 weeks, but getting it running and driving was a major milestone.
  
  This forum has been super-valuable in getting my knowledge at least up to the level of getting this thing to run.
  
  Steve.
• #157 by theman53 on 13 Aug, 2013 08:08
• Now are you going to pay someone to drive it and get it really loosened up? Freer the engine is the faster it will be. Can you put wheel covers, belly pans, and what not on the truck or does it have to remain basically as it would come off the floor? ....nevermind answering that as you may have already, spend your time working on that thing and answer me later
• #158 by Jetmugg on 13 Aug, 2013 08:52
• I need to do a couple of things to make it more driveable (fix the leaks, put a windshield in it).
  
  Then I can drive it around town a bit.  I have classic/antique license plates, and Hagerty Insurance.
  
  Yes on the wheel covers.  I have a full set of Moon disks.  No on the belly pan (not allowed per the rulebook).
  
  Per the rules, all the factory sheetmetal has to be "all stock panels, mounted in original relationship to one another" -i.e. no chopped tops, etc.  Streamlining (belly pans) is not allowed, nor is filling of body seams.  Removing mirrors is OK.
  
  What's running through my head right now is how high an EGT I should be willing to live with.  I have an air/water intercooler, which will be fed by icewater, a fairly unrestricted exhaust (2-1/2" tubing with no muffler), AFCO aluminum radiator, and a pretty good sized oil cooler.
  
  I have a mechanical boost controller (basically a small regulator) that I can use to "fool" the turbo wastegate if needed.
  
  Any recommendations regarding maximum EGT for a run of 3 miles at WOT?
  
  Steve.
• #159 by Jetmugg on 13 Aug, 2013 09:00
• Here's a photo of a guy who is at Bonneville right now, trying to raise the record.  He's made about 8 passes so far, but hasn't cracked the 100 mph speed yet.
  
  
  
  I have no idea what kind of engine combination he's running, only that it's less than 1.523L, which is the limit for the class.
  
  I'm hoping that my Rampage will be more aerodynamic than a stock bodied VW Caddy.
  
  Steve.
• #160 by RabbitJockey on 13 Aug, 2013 09:30
• itd be nice to see what he is running just from curiousity. but i know some people take it the engine building much
  
  i think theres definitely an aero advantage as your truck looks like it sits much lower, plus the front appears alot more aerodynamic.
  
  not to mention i wouldn't be surprised if your truck dynoed at over 200whp
• #161 by Jetmugg on 13 Aug, 2013 10:22
• I'd like to put it on a chassis dyno before heading to B-ville, but the time crunch might get me.
  
  If I was guessing, I'd estimate more like 140 HP, which should be enough power "on paper".  As we all know, the race is not run on paper.  It's run on the salt.
  
  Steve
• #162 by RabbitJockey on 13 Aug, 2013 10:31
• it would depend on many things, but you definitely have a setup that is capable of much more than 140hp.
  
  i think how much boost u want to run is the main thing. i vote 30psi haha.
• #163 by Jetmugg on 13 Aug, 2013 10:53
• It's my intention to adjust boost levels as needed, based on the EGT's, and whether or not I'm above the existing record.
  
  I'd like to start out on the conservative side and "creep up" the power and speed.  I don't want to blow it up too early in the game.
  
  If it gets close to the end of the meet and I haven't been able to get the power I'm looking for, the I'll definitely turn up the wick as much as needed.  (Go big or go home).
  
  
  Steve.
• #164 by CRSMP5 on 13 Aug, 2013 11:02
• .. no more then 1250f for the first 2 miles.. and what ever makes more power for the last..