1.6 cy TD bottom end 1.9 aaz head project - page 14 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #195 by NintendoKD on 10 Jan, 2010 20:36
• Sorry, it just feels that I'm being attacked here   I want to know just like everyone else.
• #196 by truckinwagen on 10 Jan, 2010 20:40
• well, anything is possible, the motor I am fighting with right now has an early crank and 12mm head bolts(supposedly the crank was changed to the newer style before the headbolts were changed to 12mm)
  
  clean the threads out really good, a 11mm bolt will thread into the 12mm block with surprising ease(and will lead you to think it is an 11mm) and it is not uncommon for there to be so much garbage in the threads to make putting the 12mm in there hard.
  
  if you are having the block hot tanked, the threads should clean out good.
• #197 by Rabbit on Roids on 11 Jan, 2010 09:02
• Quote from: NintendoKD on 10 Jan, 2010 18:36

  I got it as a shortblock less the headbolts but I do have the headbolts from the 1.5 that I have, like I said I'll just have to wait till it comes back from the mech.  What I do know is that when I tried to run an 12mm tap through the holes I ran into considerable resistance, and I did not want to f-up the holes, I am not disagreeing with anyone here that they come from the factory with anything but, I just want to get to the bottom of this and move on.  Is it a: a block that according to everyone here does not exist b: a converted 1.6 n/a that has the piston squirters installed c: a true blue 1.6 turbo block with really gunked up dirty bolt holes.  I do not require an answer from anyone per-se, as I said before, only time and a return from the mech will tell.  I f it is, in fact, 11mm bolt holes what are my options? what is my next step?  should I go for a different block?  This is the support I kind of expect from the community not scrutiny from someone who doesn't believe despite my honesty.  I have nothing to gain from lying to anyone here and everything to lose.  I am sincerely worried about what for this means for the build and I have already sunk a considerable amount into it, and I want to see it through to completion.  So, I think that the real question here is NOW WHAT?
  
  hey kev, im not attacking you, im just telling you that there is no possible way you have an 11mm turbo engine. it never happened. if its a turbo engine with 11mm holes, someone made it that way, thats all im saying, not attacking you.
  
  your gonna get that block back and its gonna be 12mm holes. bet money on it.
  
  thanks guys,
  
  Kevin
  
• #198 by NintendoKD on 13 Jan, 2010 18:52
• got my aaz head in today, looks great, no cam sprocket though   anyone know where I can get one of these? is there a standard or is this one special?
• #199 by NintendoKD on 14 Jan, 2010 22:14
• ok, so safari crashed once and I forgot all that I said so here goes again pictures:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #200 by NintendoKD on 14 Jan, 2010 22:29
• Since the post was acting goofy with that many pictures in it combined with text, I replied to explain the pictures.  I hope that everyone can see all of these and they are detailed enough to see all of the problems that I am having.  I got this AAZ head, but I have some concerns, is it a true blue aaz head? or a prothe head, and how can I tell?  There is a reason I ask, and it is that the head seems weak, and/or soft, there are many dents and deep gouges in it, I have frankly worked on gasser heads stronger than this and my 1.5 head is sure as hell not this weak.  I got it assembled and have disassembled it and cleaned it in a solvent tank with a plastic brush and afterwards used a VERY FINE die grinder pad to clean off all of the contact surfaces of gasket, carbon, oil etc.  I found heavy pitting on these surfaces as well, and the thing looks practically new, I just don't understand???  how can it have so much corrosion?  the intake runners were clean but the valves had heavy carbon deposits due to an improper seal from the crack in between the valves obstructing it's normal closure.  You will also see dents "not all of them, I assure you"  These are not from me, and some of them occur on the combustion surface and make it uneven so that a proper seal will not work.  I was fortunate enough to have the valve cover and oil cap sent as well, but I need to know if I can use this in my build or not.  I am making a trip to the machinist to pick up my 1.6 block "YAY it's done" and wantto drop this off to get milled/prepped for the build.  I want to get everyones opinion on this can I use it???  The cracks go from the precups to the valveseats in two places and can be felt with the hand.
  
  Thanks guys,
  
  Kevin
• #201 by TurboJ on 15 Jan, 2010 02:11
• That's an original VAG head, hence the markings Audi, VW and Germany 
  
  Those cracks on the other hand don't look very good. Between valves they're always cracked, but the cracks between valve and pre-cup may be a problem.
• #202 by NintendoKD on 15 Jan, 2010 04:42
• sooooo, is that an aaz or not an aaz, or are you just stating that it is an authentic vwgroup engine?  ?Boat anchor?
• #203 by MJF on 15 Jan, 2010 08:18
• It´s 1,9 head.
• #204 by Rabbit on Roids on 15 Jan, 2010 08:46
• its a JUNK 1.9 head. theres cracks where there shouldnt be. i would not use that head. its going to crack more. sorry dude, but thats my thoughts.
• #205 by NintendoKD on 15 Jan, 2010 11:40
• so, boat anchor, damn paid good money for it too as a rebuildable core.  NOW WHAT?I have spent the dough and have a German engineered paperweight where can I get another aaz head from?  I am so angry and frustrated at this point   I am not giving up at this point but have wasted money in this build and have taken a chance on love and lost out I feel like such a loser   I am going to have the machinist pressure test her and see what he says, anyone think of a way to repair this?  I know it isn't like iron, but repair at this point would probably be cheaper right, but on the same token I don't want to go all of the cheap route and end up with something that won't take what I will throw at it too. *frustrated sigh*
  
  thanks guys,
  
  Kevin
• #206 by MJF on 15 Jan, 2010 11:57
• It can be welded, it´s done gazillion times. But new heads from Germany are cheaper. I don´t know if they ship to states and how expensive is that.
• #207 by rabbitman on 15 Jan, 2010 12:39
• Maybe try returning it to whoever you got it from, it's got so many dings it looks like someone dropped it down the stairs.
  
  That one crack between the valves looks deformed, little cracks are fine but it looks like it got smacked so it's hanging out over the valve seat.
  
  Those cracks going out to the prechamber are not good, they can "probably" be fixed but I doubt it would be cheap.
  
  Sorry man.
• #208 by NintendoKD on 15 Jan, 2010 16:01
• Anyone know of where I can acquire said goodies???  I really thought I struck gold here, and in this persons defense I was a bit hasty and didn't ask for pictures or clarification.  The cracks from the precups were not visible until the old head gasket material had been removed with the extra fine wheel and copious amounts of solvent.  I got it quite dirty "knew I shoulda snapped some pics" but she is all clean now, shoot I even put a fresh grind on the valves.  This really puts a hamper on things, but I would really like to move on and just get another head, and no, not one from our mutual friend Mr. Prothe.
  
  Thanks,
  
  Kevin
• #209 by maxfax on 15 Jan, 2010 16:08
• Looks like someone tried to peen that one crack between the valves shut...  Bang for the buck I don;t think it would be worth getting it fixed.. For me personally I would be constantly worried about the crack returning and the pre cup falling out..
  
  I think I would start with the suggestion of talking with the person you bought it from..  Maybe they'd be willing to make it right somehow..  Even if it was a partial refund since you now at least have all the parts to reinstall in another bare head..
  
  Personal preference again, I wouldn't buy one from Prothe because of his constant screw jobs he hands out on IP's..  But if it really would come down to a lack of options, other's have used his heads with good results..   Save that for a LAST resort though..