more supercharger talk - page 25 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #360 by truckinwagen on 12 Feb, 2010 14:49
• oop! you ninja'd me!
• #361 by truckinwagen on 12 Feb, 2010 14:51
• actually, come to think about it, there could have been some adhesive residue left on the spring from the ID stickers they came in with.
  
  maybe dissolved by the diesel and came off, gumming up a couple injectors for a bit.
  
  
• #362 by truckinwagen on 12 Feb, 2010 15:22
• well, just fired it up and took it for a little drive(about a mile)
  
  it started OK, but had an intermittent hesitation, like an injector was sticking for a moment.
  not bad enough to make it hard to drive, just enough to notice.
  
  the hesitation went away after about 1/2 mile.
  
  I am going to guess that there was some adhesive residue on the new governor spring from the ID sticker.
  this residue got semi dissolved by the diesel fuel and fell off.
  these little globby bits(have to have been really small, as I didn't see any adhesive on the spring) got out into the injectors and stuck them for a bit until they passed.
  
  I am going to take short trips to confirm that it is over before heading out very far again.
  
  -Owen
• #363 by truckinwagen on 12 Feb, 2010 21:00
• well, the exhaust leak needs to be fixed bad.
  
  I have looked into fixing the downpipe, but it would require removing it, and then fixing it and I cant afford any more downtime.
  I need a solution that can be done in an afternoon.
  
  so I went searching for parts and found a good(with pics to prove it) OBX header for $120 shipped.
  
  I am gonna snag it, install it and then repair the TT downpipe for future use/sale.
  
  probably going to use the exhaust on the car now, until I decide it is not loud enough...
  
  
• #364 by truckinwagen on 13 Feb, 2010 16:53
• well, took the GTI out for a drive today, still have some cylinders missing a bit when cold, but it clears up in a mile or so of driving.
  
  I got the boost leak fixed and closed the boost bypass again, I forgot how much of a dog an N/A diesel is, but the power difference between boost and no boost is really incredible(and thats just 10PSI, I can only imagine what 20+ is going to be like)
  
  I did some math for the water/meth injection system, and with both stages on, I will get five minutes of spray per gallon of fluid.
  on the first stage I will get 15 minutes of spray per gallon of fluid.
  
  which seems like not alot, but realistically as much as I will be at WOT in heavy boost I think it will do just fine(I might have to bring a couple extra gallons of fluid to the cruises though)
  
  -Owen
• #365 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 10:15
• well, the smaller charger pulley and all my water/meth goodies should be here today.
  
  one thing that is going to be a challenge though is that the smaller pulley is going to make the belt from the charger to the crank pulleys touch the idler in the middle.
  as you can see clearance is tight as it is right now, and a smaller charger pulley will surely make it touch there
  
  
  
  
  I'm not sure what to do, a smaller idler pulley seems the obvious choice, but I'm not sure where to get one, and adding another idler to lift the belt on top to clear is an option, but I would like to not add any complexity to the belt system, as there is plenty that can go wrong with it as it is(and it has seemingly worked fine thus far)
  
  any thoughts on what I could do to remedy this?
  
  -Owen
• #366 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 12:17
• well, some fellows over on the vortex were very helpful, and I have with thier help decided to run the belt like this:
  
  
  should get rid of all my rubbing issues, and it shortens the length of belt that is unsupported going back to the crank, which will help keep it from flapping around so bad.
  
  -Owen
• #367 by Vincent Waldon on 15 Feb, 2010 12:23
• Any chance of adding the clutched alternator pulley while you're at it? That will really help in the "flapping" department, and destress your crank sprocket as well.
• #368 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 12:28
• I intend to do that when I can get my hands on one of the pulleys for cheapish(or after my taxes come back)
  
  it is in my list either way...
• #369 by Vincent Waldon on 15 Feb, 2010 12:37
• Quote from: truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 12:28

  it is in my list
  

  
   
• #370 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 12:37
• just found a fellow on Ebay selling them for $45 plus shipping, but he has UPS listed as his shipper which puts shipping at $30.
  
  I sent him an email asking if he would ship USPS to bring that cost down(to no more than $6 hopefully)
  
  the other cool thing about going with the clutched pulley is it will allow me to go to a 6-rib belt!
• #371 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 12:40
• the slipping problems were due to it loosening itself(been fixed) and chewing the belt surface up.
  I have fixed the loosening problems, and a little belt dressing got it to grab better, and stop slipping.
  
  I do plan on going six rib when I can, but the five seems to work for now.
  
  I am looking into having an adapter(for the alternator offset difference) machined to replace the crappy one I welded up out of pipe, so that the alternator pulley is more in line with the others soon as well.
  
  -Owen
• #372 by RabbitJockey on 15 Feb, 2010 16:30
• 
  
  
  MIND=BLOWN
• #373 by OM617 on 15 Feb, 2010 18:36
• Since you need to add an idler on the bottom, now would be a perfect time to use an automatic tensioner.
• #374 by truckinwagen on 15 Feb, 2010 18:47
• not sure I follow you there, I have an idler on the bottom, a timing belt tensioner.
  it makes the belt wrap on the water pump better and allows me to tension the belt.
  
  what "automatic tensioner" are you referring to?