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#300 by rallydiesel on 04 Feb, 2010 18:48
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Cool build.
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#301 by truckinwagen on 04 Feb, 2010 19:45
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thanks, its still a real bear to start, I just tried to get it running a few minutes ago and ran the battery down before it fired up.
I think my cheap glow plugs are part of the problem(might be burned out) but I will check for that tomorrow.
it starts pretty quick once it is warmed up, but again not as fast as I would like.
I think timing might be part of it, but not being a VW pump the timing spec is fairly useless.
if I get it running again tomorrow I might fiddle with the timing again and see if I can get it to start easier.
-Owen -
#302 by rabbitman on 04 Feb, 2010 22:25
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Too retarded of timing made mine hard to start, with the GP's hot/engine cold it wasn't too bad but if it was just warm enough for the GP's to stay off it would crank forever without starting.
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#303 by truckinwagen on 04 Feb, 2010 22:28
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well, I have the glow plugs run off a switch on the dash, and it is a bear and a half to start cold while WORKING the glowplugs.
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#304 by 53 willys on 05 Feb, 2010 08:43
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for the moment, to keep oil off my windshield(the leaking oil gets caught by the wind and thrown EVERYWHERE) I wrapped the leaking fitting in some paper towels and tape, which should both keep the oil in one place and tell me how bad the leak really is.
-Owen
Nice car tampon...lol
Nice work it's great to finally get them running...and working bugs out is all part of it.. no big deal...I'm STILL working the bugs outta my build.
keep it up! -
#305 by truckinwagen on 05 Feb, 2010 16:34
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well, I advanced the timing until it got hard to start hot, then I backed it out until it started easier.
hoping that it will help cold starts, as part of my issue (thanks for pointing this out andrew) is that the cummins pump has no cold start advance.
I could pull the pump and retrofit a vw cold start advance mechanism, but it would be far too much work at this point.
andrew also recommended swapping the cummins advance spring for a vw one, but as you can see in this picture, getting it out would mean pulling the pump(because the charger bracket is so close) so I will wait on that too.
also while playing with the timing, I noticed that the rear mounting bolt on the injection pump(the one under the injection lines) had vibrated out, and when tightening the lower bolt on the front of the pump(the stud and nut one) it stripped the treads!
so I need to go out and get some more nuts/bolts to fix them before I drive it anywhere.
even now, however, starting from cold(and hot, just not as bad) it sounds like it is trying to run(not rough like its one cylinder, just not fast enough to keep going) for a while before it fires up
if I stop the starter during this it will die, but if I keep it turning after a few seconds it will fire up.
strange.
also I noticed a few air bubbles in my fuel line after it was running, which might be part of the problem, but it runs so darned good once it starts, im not sure(air in the fuel would make it run like garbage even after start no?)
anyway, got the hood back on, and am fixing my good heater to stick under it(the one there now does not put out as much heat) might even permanently attach it(there is a great space on the passenger frame horn for it to sit)
any pointers or help would be great.
thanks,
-Owen -
#306 by RabbitJockey on 05 Feb, 2010 17:20
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i recently stripped the threads on my pump as well. mine was the nut welded into the pump bracket. a bit more involved to repair haha
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#307 by truckinwagen on 05 Feb, 2010 22:22
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alright, I talked to my dad(long time marine diesel mechanic) and I think I have figured it out.
the timing is too advanced.
when I advanced the timing(as it is the old standard for hard to start motors) and it actually got harder to start, retard it a bit and its easier.
problem is, it is as retarded as the pump will turn in the slots and it is still hard to start.
(I did set the timing belt one tooth off to make the pump clear the N/A injection lines)
so I plan on setting the timing belt over one tooth so I can get the pump farther retarded and see if that helps.
I am also getting a new block heater and battery blanket just to cover all my bases.
while I have the injection pump off to skip the timing belt and fix the stripped bolt I will swap out the advance spring too.
-Owen -
#308 by truckinwagen on 05 Feb, 2010 23:01
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nope, cant hear individual cranking pulses, when I start to I know I have run the battery down enough to put the charger on and try again later.
its a new starter with a new battery and new cables that make good contact, I don't think cranking speed is my issue really.
-Owen -
#309 by theman53 on 06 Feb, 2010 05:58
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it hopefully is old but there is some anitfreeze sitting on the waterpump housing that you might want to check out while you have the pump off. -
#310 by truckinwagen on 06 Feb, 2010 10:01
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no antifreeze, the "moisture" is oil from the charger feed line, and it looks a little green down there because the block is painted green.
the motor has gone through about a quart of oil in the past 100 miles.
I think most of it is blowby going out the block breather(where the vac pump used to return to the block)
I am planning to get a catch can together so I can track how much oil is leaving in the blowby.
-Owen -
#311 by truckinwagen on 06 Feb, 2010 13:30
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turned into a blizzard here, so the car will have to wait until the weather clears up to work on it.
damn. -
#312 by sawedoffgolf on 07 Feb, 2010 03:28
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here is the leaking fitting:
for the moment, to keep oil off my windshield(the leaking oil gets caught by the wind and thrown EVERYWHERE) I wrapped the leaking fitting in some paper towels and tape, which should both keep the oil in one place and tell me how bad the leak really is.
If you want i can send you the OEM g60 feedline for a few bucks, comes with the banjo bolts and the oem "T". Also where is your feed coming from? filter housing or the side of the head? the g60 runs on low pressure from the side of the head at about 4psi and when the engine is running it basically drips out of the line.. -
#313 by truckinwagen on 07 Feb, 2010 20:59
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how much is a few bucks?
I looked for one while I was putting the motor together, but everyone wanted far too much money for one. -
#314 by truckinwagen on 07 Feb, 2010 22:53
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I might have a line on a couple of clutched alternator pulleys, and I was wondering, would there be any benefit to installing one on the supercharger?(privided it fits and lines up of course)
would it help keep from munching the crank snout?(theoretically it should yes?)
if it does fit and work, it would be another good way to install a smaller diameter pulley on the charger(to increase boost) for less than the premium all the aftermarket companies want.
-Owen