more supercharger talk

[truckinwagen]

just purchased three water/meth nozzles and an intercooler coupler that has three bungs welded in it.

going to run a two stage system.

the first stage will be triggered by boost pressure(at about 1/2 of my max pressure, whatever that turns out to be)
and will simply turn the pump on

and the second will be triggered by EGT's(thinking about 1100*)
will be controlled by a solenoid

one nozzle for stage one, and two for stage two(so three all together for high boost and high EGT situations)

all I need to do now is figure out how to rig an idle switch so I dont have it spraying during de-acceleration in gear

-Owen

[rabbitman]

Hey is it possible to switch a normal IP over to the cummins gov spring instead of the goofy setup they usually have? It seems like it would drive nicer.....I think .

[truckinwagen]

you mean put an uncaged governor setup in a VW pump?

should be possible, if you had a donor pump for all the parts.

-Owen

[rabbitman]

you mean put an uncaged governor setup in a VW pump?

should be possible, if you had a donor pump for all the parts.

-Owen

That's my main problem , I didn't know if it'd work to just remove the cage from the shaft and hook a spring to it and the......whatever it's called......the thing that the other end of the spring capsule now hooks to .

P.S. Very nice build BTW!!!

[RabbitJockey]

just purchased three water/meth nozzles and an intercooler coupler that has three bungs welded in it.

going to run a two stage system.

the first stage will be triggered by boost pressure(at about 1/2 of my max pressure, whatever that turns out to be)
and will simply turn the pump on

and the second will be triggered by EGT's(thinking about 1100*)
will be controlled by a solenoid

one nozzle for stage one, and two for stage two(so three all together for high boost and high EGT situations)

all I need to do now is figure out how to rig an idle switch so I dont have it spraying during de-acceleration in gear

-Owen

have you ever seen the setup that just uses the boost blowing into a sealed container in order to push the meth into the intake system?  i dont think this would work with your setup i dunno if you can spray water/meth into a g60

[truckinwagen]

Im not sure I would be comfortable pushing water through the G60, it relies on grease inside of it to make a good seal, I could see it turning into peanut butter really quick.

as for the modifying a caged setup to uncaged, I dint think it would be so simple, the uncaged spring uses a different  idle spring holder as well as throttle shaft.

the oil feed to the supercharger is leaking way too much, I am afraid that it is starting to crack from the vibration.
I have bought a stock feed line, but it hasn't come yet.
I need a cheap temporary alternative to the brake line I am currently using.
and I need it soon as I have to drive an hour out to the valley tomorrow morning to get some parts.


I am thinking that I could head over to napa and get a pair of grease gun flex hoses to put on either end of the hard line.
it probably wouldn't stand up to the pressure/heat well for long, but it might get me through until the stock line comes in.

any thoughts?

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

well, I got and installed two bits of grease gun line on either end of a shorter piece of brake line.

another issue I found is that one of the previous owners tightened the banjo fitting on the charger too much and damaged the threads.

it was hard to get enough torque on it to seal the copper washer without pulling the threads right out of it.
I got it to hold, but I am not sure if it will hold next time.

do you think I could drill it out and tap it a size larger?

it is holding oil pressure without leaking now, but it may not for long.

-Owen

[gldgti]

if your careful, maybe you can replace it with a riser to screw in there and seal it in with some red threadlocker, then screw your oil line into the top of the new riser forever more. that way you dont have to remove it again.

well, I got and installed two bits of grease gun line on either end of a shorter piece of brake line.

another issue I found is that one of the previous owners tightened the banjo fitting on the charger too much and damaged the threads.

it was hard to get enough torque on it to seal the copper washer without pulling the threads right out of it.
I got it to hold, but I am not sure if it will hold next time.

do you think I could drill it out and tap it a size larger?

it is holding oil pressure without leaking now, but it may not for long.

-Owen

[truckinwagen]

thats a thought, I might see what the parker store has like that...

[truckinwagen]

well, drove out to the valley today, good hour drive, no surprises.
oil pressure got down to about 50PSI cruise at 65MPH, (lowest I have ever seen it go) but the oil got hotter than usual, so I am not too worried.

pulled the idle switch and lower timing cover off the car at the yard(lying in the snow grrrr...) and went to pay.
owner said $20 for the parts, and I handed him a 50.
he didnt have change, so he gave me the parts for free!

the trip home, water temps got a little higher than I wanted(not above 220*) so I had to baby it on some of the big hills. I think that this radiator is going to be too small for the summer time, I might get one of the dual pass honda radiators to swap in when the weather gets warmer.

about 5 mins from town, the boost trails off, not completely, but to about 1/2 of what it should be, and a shrill whine comes up.
oh crap, it must be the charger...

as I pull into town the car starts to buck and smoke alot(blue) and dies.
at this point my mind is going to bad places, blown charger dumping oil into the intake killing the motor, damn.

I got it started again(not easy) and limp it to a parking lot where it bucks, smokes and dies again.
no restart this time, not even a chance.

I pop the hood, and cant find anything wrong.
I opened the boost bypass to see if there is oil in the intake, its bone dry.
check the oil, still good.
belts are intact and still tight enough.
crank pulley is solid(no wobble, looseness)

WTF?

so I crank it over(with the boost bypass still open) and it starts right up!
I tentatively gat back in traffic, and drive it home.
no issues(no boost either, but the bypass was open) no shrill squeal, nothing.

when I get it home, I leave it idle and pop the hood.
look around, fiddle a little and find that the loss of boost is due to the idle screw on the G60 throttle body rattling out and falling into oblivion. a little more tinkering and I figured out that the shrill squeal was the air rushing out of the hole where the idle screw used to be.

so crisis averted, the charger is fine.
but that still does not explain the bucking, smoking and dying. or why it went away after sitting for five minutes( I didnt do anything to the motor during that time other than look at it.

any ideas?

-Owen

[RabbitJockey]

i'm scared with you.  was ur lda maybe getting more boost than the engine

[truckinwagen]

not sure how, it is has a single(fairly large diameter) line right from the intake manifold.
and even if it was, it wouldn't make any difference below half pedal(where I was when it started bucking)

I had to keep my foot in it to keep it running the little bit it would, like it dropped a couple cylinders, and if I gave it enough fuel the other ones would keep it going.

but why would it do it for a while, and then just stop?

[truckinwagen]

had a chat with my grandpa, and he thinks it sounds like stuck injectors from bad fuel that cleared themselves.

but we both agreed that anything in the fuel that would stick an injector should be caught by the fuel filter.
the filter I have on now, is a genuine bosch one with less than a tank of fuel through it, so...

could I have a bad filter from the factory?

[Turbinepowered]

had a chat with my grandpa, and he thinks it sounds like stuck injectors from bad fuel that cleared themselves.

but we both agreed that anything in the fuel that would stick an injector should be caught by the fuel filter.
the filter I have on now, is a genuine bosch one with less than a tank of fuel through it, so...

could I have a bad filter from the factory?

Could be something that jogged loose in the pump; it had been stored for a while, correct? And bought used? Who knows how the PO maintained their truck/equipment... or what it picked up in storage.

[truckinwagen]

pump was brand new, never installed.
it still had the factory plugs on all the ports.

of course it is possible some dirt/dust got in it while I had the top off to do the governor spring, but I was very careful to keep everything near it clean.

I would expect any issues due to dirt in the pump to come up sooner though?