Author Topic: My very first no run thread! Hooray!! (Edit: My first engine build! Hooray!!!) (Read 22258 times)

Jettagli16v · « **on:** March 06, 2009, 11:43:54 am »

Hooray for me!
I really feel like one of the club now!
This is moved over from the testing glow plugs thread that I jacked bacause it is no longer a glow plug issue.

Car ran great for the 6-8 months I had it..
Started every time, never an issue (at least not related to the engine)
Monday when I got in the car, it would not start.
she turns over fine, but will not catch.

Thus far I have done:
1) 4X New Bosch Duraterm's
2) Vince Waldon's wiring pimping
3) New battery
4) Rebuilt starter

Next step is compression test.?
I have never removed the lines before so I bought the VW #3035 line wrench tool. I also bought a Harbor Freight Diesel compression tester kit.
Anything special to know before removing the lines and injectors?
(I know I should watch out for spray when I crack the lines, but are there any other concerns reguarding the pump and / or lines?)

Thanks in advance!
-Brad

vanbcguy · « **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2009, 12:01:03 pm »

Replied to your other thread regarding injector removal...

You don't need to worry about spray when removing the lines unless the engine is running, and even then there isn't much. I doubt there will be any appreciable pressure in the lines. Just unscrew them using any suitable flare nut wrench and you're good to go. There's no need/reason to remove the retaining clamps that bolt the lines together - your best bet is to just remove all 4 as a set.

Oh yeah, a troubleshooting step I don't see below - forgive me if we've covered this in the original thread, but I'm guessing this hasn't been checked yet. Try loosening the lines at the injectors a bit and cranking it over. Wrap a rag around the lines where you've loosened them... You should get some fuel discharged from each line when cranking, if you don't the problem is on the pump side of things. If you do, then the problem is either timing or compression.

zukgod1 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2009, 12:59:58 pm »

When your doing your compression test make sure to unplug the fuel cut off solenoid. That way there will be no fuel present at all.

jtanguay · « **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2009, 02:00:47 pm »

keep the injector lines clean. keep everything clean! any dirt in the injection system is VERY bad.

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2009, 02:42:29 pm »

All great tips, thank you so much.

I will start by cracking the injector lines and verifying fuel spray at each.
That is true, I have not yet done this.
Any idea on what to expect (volume of fuel?) is appreciated.

After that, assuming I get fuel from each line
(do them all together or seperate?) then I proceed to compression?

And also, aside from cleanliness,
there is no real procedure to remove / re-install injector lines?

Thanks guys!
-Brad

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2009, 05:30:33 pm »

Thanks for the tips...

No copper washers or anything on the end fittings?

Ill be cracking my first line in an hour or 2!
Wish me luck!

-Brad

the caveman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 06, 2009, 05:56:01 pm »

MORE IMPORTANT- be careful not to break the head while removing the injectors. use a breaker bar on the socket and push against the head as opposed to pulling away from it. If the injectors are tight, you can easily break the injector boss and then you will be looking at a scrap head .

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #7 on:** March 06, 2009, 07:28:48 pm »

Caveman:
My girlfriend loves that pic of the cat...
Is that actually your cat, or a pic from www.catsthatlooklikehitler.com?

Either way its funny, and made her laugh!

Off to crack the lines with the assistance of the aforementioned girlfriend!

-Brad

the caveman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 06, 2009, 07:44:52 pm »

yes it's from that site. way too funny .good luck with the job

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #9 on:** March 06, 2009, 09:32:35 pm »

OK,
I have cracked all lines at the injectors and when turning the car over for 4-5 seconds, I see maybe two spritzes per second come out of the middle of the nut.
Can anyone enlighten me - this confirms that fuel is getting to the injectors, but does that rule out the pump as a culprit of the no start?

Assuming that meant that the pump was (apprximately) working,
I went ahead and removed all the lines in preparation for a compression test.
I was able to get them all with a 17mm line wrench and a crescent.
I covered all 16 open lines (8 on the inj lines, and injectors and pump) with aluminum foil to keep things clean.

I have hosed all of the injectors with PB Blaster,
and will continue to do that every couple of hours.
Ill be working both jobs tomorrow, no chance to do anything more than hit it with PB in the afternoon.
Sunday after work, I will take the injectors out and do a compression test.

Do I need a special socket to remove the injectors, or will a regular deep one work?
And, Other than spraying the injectors for 36 hours before removal, any other tips?

At least I keep making good progress,
and thanks to all of you taking the time to read this and offer any sage words of advice.
-Brad

the caveman · « **Reply #10 on:** March 06, 2009, 11:10:47 pm »

I don't know if there is a regular deep socket that will work on an injector. maybe someone can tell you otherwise ,but as far as i know it takes a special one.

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2009, 11:23:05 pm »

thanks,
ill grab a socket over the weekend,
pop them sunday and run a compression test.

at this point, i suppose my best case scenario is a blown headgasket, as a metal one and ARPs were already in the cards, just at a later date...
and while I am there, ill have to do rings and bearings if everything else looks good.

-brad

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2009, 09:06:45 pm »

more good forward progress.
All injectors came out without rendering the head useless!
It took the 1 1/16" craftsman deep socket, a wobble extension and a 24" breaker bar.
Also removed all heat shields. Came out after a good spray of brake parts cleaner.
I wrapped them all in aluminum foil as a precaution (the injectors, that is).

Compression test hopefully tomorrow after work.
what kind of numbers should I see?
Presumably the bentley is accurate?
She says 493 psi = new, 412 = wear limit, with a max differential of 73.
And of course the engine is cold, and all the oil is down in the pan.
Should I turn it over for a few seconds before beginning the test?

Thanks,
Ill post up compression numbers when I have them.
-Brad

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2009, 02:29:19 am »

Quote from: "libbybapa"

I wouldn't be alarmed if they are all at least 350 psi. With it cold, some of the hydraulic lifters might have bled down. I usually test all four and then test the lowest one again to see if it comes up any. Definitely more accurate to do after it's been running.

Andrew

I've noticed the 1.5's usually have 500 psi if they are in good shape, I had 2 like that. I've had two 1.6's rebored with new pistons and the most I've seen from them is about 475. All engines had resurfaced heads and new valve jobs. The 1.5's weren't even rebored, just new standard rings. I could never understand the difference especialy with the longer stroke on the 1.6.

Rabbit TD · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2009, 02:46:01 am »

Quote from: "libbybapa"

I use a Craftsman 1-1/16" 6 pt deep. 27mm is the metric version. It has to be deep enough to clear the return barbs.

Andrew

And also the pump on #2, I couldn't get my 27 in there and still had to adapt it down to 3/8 to clear the LDA with the extention, definately don't want to try to torque on an angle depending how far the pump advanced towards the engine. Also some heads like this Top Line have less clearance around the injector bosses and won't let the 27 I have in there, standard 1 1/16 deep well fits real nice everywhere.