Author Topic: My very first no run thread! Hooray!! (Edit: My first engine build! Hooray!!!) (Read 22253 times)

jtanguay · « **Reply #60 on:** March 16, 2009, 08:13:38 pm »

Quote from: "libbybapa"

Act fast (not mine, no affiliation). That's about the cost of the parts and machine work for a rebuild, say nothing of the labor.

small link

wow! yea i don't think you really can do much better than that all said & done. it seems pricey, but well worth it, and you can trust the OEM parts/quality.

they said that the pics are from a 1.9TD, but they are in fact from a 1.9TDI :lol:

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #61 on:** March 16, 2009, 08:19:22 pm »

I totally agree, but recent events have really strapped my car money.

Anyone want to buy a 1992 Jetta gas car at $600?
runs and drives fine, with coilovers, but not much more.
That would free up plenty of capital...

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #62 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:52:06 pm »

And Hmmm.....
I can get rod bearings from WorldPac for $12, same day,
but I cannot get a ring set...?
Probably should contact Myke?

-Brad

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #63 on:** March 16, 2009, 10:14:17 pm »

ok,
Ill hold tight until I mic the cylinders,
and then see what you guys think.
I called my buddy and he can have a 3" cylinder mic for me thursday...

I guess Ill just go ahead and pull the pistons and rods,
and look for visual things.
Ill try to get on that tomorrow.
thanks,
-Brad

jtanguay · « **Reply #64 on:** March 16, 2009, 10:53:43 pm »

i wonder if he can get oversized rings to work? that would surely make the ring job last longer. at least that would get you by for a while.

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #65 on:** March 16, 2009, 11:46:01 pm »

im liking the sound of that idea!
The head shop says they may also have a line on getting an MLS made for the MF code block and head.
They said they would call me in a few days with the report.
-Brad

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #66 on:** March 17, 2009, 09:05:32 pm »

Oil is drained and the pan dropped.
I may be feeling up to pulling pistons and rods tonight,
we shall see...

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #67 on:** March 18, 2009, 08:21:52 pm »

I got some good news finally:
The head shop got back to me today, and said the head was in great shape.
Totally fine except for 4 bad exhaust valve guides (he says it is common for diesel)...
They will have it together next week (have to order the guides).
$272 labor + $16 for all guides. not too bad!
They are also trying to find me an MLS gasket,
from a headgasket supplier, appropriate for a "MF" they are also not fans of plugging or welding the head to do an AAZ, so well see what they come up with!
(ill keep you all posted there)

BUT,
this means that the head was not the issue, which leaves me with:
Headgasket or Block (rings or cylinders)...

Pistons and rods will come out tomorrow,
and Ill get some pics up.

Thanks!
-Brad

jtanguay · « **Reply #68 on:** March 18, 2009, 08:57:56 pm »

i'm going more with head gasket... the rings would have to be completely shot to hell to give 0 compression. i think zukgod had a broken ring and his car still ran...

i'd expect something in the range of 350 psi if it was previously running good, but with sloppy pistons.

so what is the head shop doing for that price quote? just valve guides? or that and lightly skimming the head?

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #69 on:** March 18, 2009, 09:31:10 pm »

That is the flat rate for "custom head work"
which includes:
complete disassembly, cleaning of, and magnafluxing the head,
Inspection of each part per specs,
reassembly with any new parts needed,
and lapping the valves.
They will ensure the head is totally flat as well.
They guarantee the whole head for like 6 months.

I totally agree with the head gasket theory now.
(unless I pull out the slugs and all rings are gone, but then I would have a decrease in performance...)
Good reason to do the MLS and ARP treatment. I really really want to gain entry into the "30+PSI" club...

a question:

I'm thinking I should replace the oil pump as the motor is old, and I have a nice freshened motor to take care of now.
Is there a good upgrade part here? ARP sells bolts for that too, are the stock ones a concern?

Thanks!
-Brad

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #70 on:** March 20, 2009, 10:34:37 pm »

Here's a few shots with the pistons out...
they look OK, (cylinders and pistons)
but I really don't know what I am looking for.
Still trying to get my hands on a loaner cylinder mic.

The second ring on cylinders #1 & #2 was broken, but still in place.

Tell me what you guys are thinking...

*Should I be worried about the slight depression I tried to hi light here? Right on the front, at the crown of the piston.

Thanks!
-Brad

jtanguay · « **Reply #71 on:** March 21, 2009, 02:21:00 pm »

did you number the rods & all rod pieces or keep them together? (they will not fit the wrong pieces)

it looks to me like you need some new injector nozzles. from all the burning on the pistons.

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #72 on:** March 21, 2009, 05:24:46 pm »

OH CRAP!
I am supposed to keep them together?!?!?!

.... Just kidding.
I lightly scratched the number on each piston, and kept the rod caps in the correct orientataion.

Should I send the injectors out and have them done as well?
I have no limit to the amount of money I am willing to spend on this old piece of crap.... If I spend 5X the cost of what I bought the car for, that makes me really happy!
(actually, I am just kidding about that one, and dont let me griping keep you from giving me accurate info which is only meant to assist me!... I just get bummed sometimes!)

If they need to go, I think Giles or BlkBoostedTruck are the go-to guys, right?
Upgrade the nozzles as well?

Thanks!
-Brad

jtanguay · « **Reply #73 on:** March 21, 2009, 06:20:37 pm »

Quote from: "Jettagli16v"

OH CRAP!
I am supposed to keep them together?!?!?!

.... Just kidding.
I lightly scratched the number on each piston, and kept the rod caps in the correct orientataion.

Should I send the injectors out and have them done as well?
I have no limit to the amount of money I am willing to spend on this old piece of crap.... If I spend 5X the cost of what I bought the car for, that makes me really happy!
(actually, I am just kidding about that one, and dont let me griping keep you from giving me accurate info which is only meant to assist me!... I just get bummed sometimes!)

If they need to go, I think Giles or BlkBoostedTruck are the go-to guys, right?
Upgrade the nozzles as well?

Thanks!
-Brad

good thing you kept the parts together and marked them. i didn't know that at first, but learned quite a bit when i stopped by the machine shop doing my block/head :lol:

with the current exchange rate Giles might be about the same price as Duane. either guys should be able to fix you up. genuine bosch nozzles are what you want though. with new nozzles your engine will run smoother and not eat away at your pistons. nows a good time to also inspect the bottom end bearings and check for any wear. they're not too expensive, so its good for peace of mind to have them replaced.

if you plan on owning the car for a while, or another vw in the future, then you might want to get ARP rod studs. otherwise you'll need to buy new rod bolts (stretch) and they aren't that cheap considering its a replacement item... i think removing the rod bolts 3-4 times would pay for the ARP rod studs.

Jettagli16v · « **Reply #74 on:** March 22, 2009, 10:33:47 am »

I already bought the ARP's (from Summit Racing)
so they are going in.
I was going to do the rod bearings (slight wear)
but leave the crank in.

My current parts list:
-ARP 251-4701 (already have)
-MLS gasket (still looking!)
-Rings, rod bearings, associated gaskets (getting with Myke for these)
-Good as new head.

Let me know if you think Ive got it covered.
Im still trying to get a cylinder mic, but I also will assemble if I cannot get one.
The car ran great, and cylinder wear is certainly a slow progression. I am still looking for a catastrophic thing.