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#255
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 08:31
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I'm coming over man!!
Be there in 45 min..
I also need to thank Dan for coming by and talking me down from the ledge!!!
I was at my wits end yesterday.......
thanks dan!!
Mark
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#256
by
arb
on 16 Jan, 2009 08:33
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Bummer. I'm intersted to hear about your results. The IDI is the _only_ engine I've ever rebuilt that I did not apply avaition peratex to all the gaskets, espeically the head.
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#257
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 08:35
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I know MLS has to have a REALLY smooth surface to mate up to...but I really thought my decked head and block surface would be fine???
I sure hope the extra TQ and sealer will work......
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#258
by
Quantum TD
on 16 Jan, 2009 12:08
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Apparently, you need about 20 RA surface for the MLS to seal properly.
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#259
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 13:47
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#260
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 13:51
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well I just finished taking her for a nice burn around the block..
apparently 110ftlbs!!!! is what it takes to crush this MLS and I think the Aviation sealer help a ton too...
WOOT WOOOT!!
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#261
by
arb
on 16 Jan, 2009 13:53
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OMG !!! 110 ft/lb !!! How close is that to shearing off the bolts / studs ?
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#262
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 13:56
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OMG !!! 110 ft/lb !!! How close is that to shearing off the bolts / studs ?
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
I will tell you my secret formula soon.... :twisted:
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#263
by
Quantum TD
on 16 Jan, 2009 17:14
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I'd have to go back over my TDI (mls headgasket) head bolts to compare, but that 110 is close to the 105-110 ft-lbs I used to get on the old fiber gaskets (after all the retorques), as noted earlier in this thread.
Good to hear you finally (hopefully) solved the problem.
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#264
by
53 willys
on 16 Jan, 2009 18:03
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well here is what I did ..
1~aviation permatex sealer on both sides of the gasket..
2~torqued in proper sequence and steps
35ftlbs
50ftlbs
75ftlbs
95ftlbs
then I filled it with coolant and plugged in the block heater...
I knew I wanted to take the studs way past the ARP spec and I noticed that when I retorqued the studs after RUNNING the engine it has was most the molylube off and I was getting "popping" and "jerking" when I retorqued...so my thought this time was plug the block heater in let it warm the whole block over night..then come out and clamp the SOB down with 110ftlbs.....
as I did the retroqued I could tell the gasket had not fully crushed and I was getting nice and tight as I kept going
I only had 1 stud "pop" on me witch made me feel like I was getting some good even clamping force from nicely lube stud threads..
as of right now I dont think I would go much past 110ftlbs....that was starting to really get tight..
I'm gonna take and run some more testing on it in the am...I had to work today so my time was limited..
I was beginning to think it was never gonna seal!..
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#265
by
53 willys
on 17 Jan, 2009 13:54
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15PSI AND HOLDING STRONG!!
man it's running even better then before(weird but it ran nice even with a blown HG before)
I'm gonna drive it to work tonight...wish me luck...I don't get off till 1am..so it could be a long nigh. :lol:
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#266
by
cyrus #1
on 17 Jan, 2009 13:58
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Good luck and happy boosting! :twisted:
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#267
by
dillenger1
on 17 Jan, 2009 14:12
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did you get off work yet?
how much was this gasket?
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#268
by
jtanguay
on 17 Jan, 2009 14:52
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OMG !!! 110 ft/lb !!! How close is that to shearing off the bolts / studs ?
my raceWEAR stretch i mean 'studs' gave out at approx 90 ft/lbs. :roll: ARP FTW!
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#269
by
53 willys
on 17 Jan, 2009 18:29
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did you get off work yet? how much was this gasket?
no still at work..
1 and 2 notch gaskets are=$139.95
3 notch gaskets are=$149.95
then it's like $12 for shipping...
worth it from what I can tell...you just need to make sure to clamp the studs down nice and tight so the gaskets fully crush..