~My 91 GLI to 1.6TD conversion build up~ - page 10 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #135 by blkboostedtruck on 31 Oct, 2008 17:54
• hey 53 i got the stickers ! thanks so are these a company by you or something else whats the back round on them?
  Duane
• #136 by 53 willys on 02 Nov, 2008 09:41
• small little up date..
  
  problems..
  1. still burping coolant out of the overflow :evil:
  2. turbo coolant feed line is leaking(wrong fitting)
  3. oil puking out of the dipstick tube
  4. heater blower motor inop after heatercore change
  5. coolant leak around oil dipstick(i think I got this one fixed)
  6. tach is reading low at idle and maybe up top too?
  7. bad control arm bushings
  8.I think the rear motor mount is shot...are gli rear motor mounts hydro??
  9. I'm sure I will find something for 9. :wink:
  
  
  dang I just wanna drive this thing!! now I gotta wait till Tuesday so I can get the right turbo coolant adapter then i'm sure I will have some more issues to tackle.
  
  
  
  
  
  *sighhhhhh*
• #137 by 53 willys on 02 Nov, 2008 11:11
• I did get my universal glow plug relay base yesterday!!
  this a sweet way to wire the factory style glow plug relay for guys who want to keep the gas transfer pump and still run the VW glowplug relay..
  
  
  
  
  I picked it up from the local Smith Detroit dealer....part number on the bag
• #138 by con on 04 Nov, 2008 14:06
• epic build thread, such attention to detail. Could we see some pics of the front with the FMIC behind the bumper?
• #139 by Quantum TD on 08 Nov, 2008 23:19
• Quote from: "53 willys"

  small little up date..
  
  problems..
  1. still burping coolant out of the overflow :evil:
  3. oil puking out of the dipstick tube
  4. heater blower motor inop after heatercore change
  5. coolant leak around oil dipstick(i think I got this one fixed)
  6. tach is reading low at idle and maybe up top too?
  7. bad control arm bushings
  8.I think the rear motor mount is shot...are gli rear motor mounts hydro??
  9. I'm sure I will find something for 9. :wink:
  
   

  
  
  Did you get to sort any of this stuff out?
  
  I may have some suggestions:
  
  1) If you barely have gotten the car to temp, and it's forcing out coolant, then chances are the return hose is clogged. If your upper rad hose (with the split-off for the overflow tank) is USED, chances are the restrictor fitting in the line  (the "mouse in the snake" right before the overflow tank) is clogged. You can drill it out and completely remove it. It really isn't that necessary. I bought a 1.6 ECOdiesel last summer that the guy thought had a blown HG. He would not drive it much since it would force out the coolant. I checked that fitting, and sure enough, it was clogged. Drilled it out, removed the remains, and it ran fine: never overheated again.
  
  3) Oil puking out of the dipstick can only mean a pressurized crankcase. Somehow, you engine isn't breathing properly. Did you ever try the stock CCV valve? With new pistons and rings, I doubt it's blowby, but there may be a bit of excess blowby since the rings haven't seated yet.
  
  7) The TT control arm bushings are a popular ubgrade (there's a thread here with the PN). They're solid rubber instead of perforated.
  
  Trans rear mount is hydro, but they rarely go bad. The pass side rear mount is merely rubber. They go bad more frequently. When they do, you tend to get vibrations at certain speeds. It really won't cause idle vibrations unless it's really bad.
  
  Let us know how it's going.
• #140 by 53 willys on 09 Nov, 2008 07:10
• Quote from: "con"

  epic build thread, such attention to detail. Could we see some pics of the front with the FMIC behind the bumper?

  
  
  thanks for the nice words buddy....I need some encouragement these days...this VW is trying my patience...
  
  
  yes I will grab some pics of the car today.  :lol:
• #141 by 53 willys on 09 Nov, 2008 07:34
• Quote from: "Quantum TD"

  Quote from: "53 willys"

  small little up date..
  
  problems..
  1. still burping coolant out of the overflow :evil:
  3. oil puking out of the dipstick tube
  4. heater blower motor inop after heatercore change
  5. coolant leak around oil dipstick(i think I got this one fixed)
  6. tach is reading low at idle and maybe up top too?
  7. bad control arm bushings
  8.I think the rear motor mount is shot...are gli rear motor mounts hydro??
  9. I'm sure I will find something for 9. :wink:
  
   

  
  
  Did you get to sort any of this stuff out?
  
  I may have some suggestions:
  
  1) If you barely have gotten the car to temp, and it's forcing out coolant, then chances are the return hose is clogged. If your upper rad hose (with the split-off for the overflow tank) is USED, chances are the restrictor fitting in the line  (the "mouse in the snake" right before the overflow tank) is clogged. You can drill it out and completely remove it. It really isn't that necessary. I bought a 1.6 ECOdiesel last summer that the guy thought had a blown HG. He would not drive it much since it would force out the coolant. I checked that fitting, and sure enough, it was clogged. Drilled it out, removed the remains, and it ran fine: never overheated again.
  
  3) Oil puking out of the dipstick can only mean a pressurized crankcase. Somehow, you engine isn't breathing properly. Did you ever try the stock CCV valve? With new pistons and rings, I doubt it's blowby, but there may be a bit of excess blowby since the rings haven't seated yet.
  
  7) The TT control arm bushings are a popular ubgrade (there's a thread here with the PN). They're solid rubber instead of perforated.
  
  Trans rear mount is hydro, but they rarely go bad. The pass side rear mount is merely rubber. They go bad more frequently. When they do, you tend to get vibrations at certain speeds. It really won't cause idle vibrations unless it's really bad.
  
  Let us know how it's going.

  
  
  
  thanks for your help quantum!
  
  
  1. I have tried EVERYTHING except drilling the mouse in the snake...
  I have let it idle with the cap off till the fan kicks on and off a few times...then I put the cap on and waited for the fan to kick on some more..witch it did......problem is I STILL puke coolant out of the bottle.
  it seems to ONLY happen when I drive it....I can idle it ALL day and it will not overheat...but when I drive it, it pukes coolant...pretty much every time.
  I have put about 200 miles on it so far....but It still ends up being "low" after I drive it for a bit...even if I let it sit over night it still is "low" and it pukes out the overflow bottle no matter what...it seems to run warm too....it does  not overheat with normal driving..but if I get on it hard it will overheat pretty quick......I am really at a deahead here...I just dont know why it's acting this way??
  every hose on this car is brand new
  new heatercore
  new A/C radiator
  new radiator cap
  new water pump
  new t-stat
  I even disconnected the turbo coolant lines to eliminate the turbo...and it still pukes! :cry:
  I also hooked up a hand vacuum pump to the "mouse" hose and sucked coolant through the system that way!!!!    still no change
  this problem is THE WORST!!! I really hate overheating issues :evil:
  
  3. well I FINALLY fixed this oil leak....I had to vent the head AND BLOCK....I dont know why?? but soon as I plumbed the block into the top CCV section it stopped puking oil out the stick......
  I should note that using the word "puke" may have been excessive...it was more of a very slow and slight ooze that only happened when freeway driving.
  
  4. got the blower motor fixed......this is really bad but....
  I had a dream about the wire/connector that I had forgot to plug back in....I went out the next morning and sure enough the plug/connector was there AND unplugged!! :lol: dreaming about VW's...this is getting outta hand!...lol
  
  5. still have not found the coolant leak around the dipstick....I plan to get the car up in the air today...
  
  6. tach still reads low..i think...but i've been busy with these other problems to check it.
  
  7. I ordered ALL new suspension bushing and ball joints.(TT/R32 backs and stock fronts)
  
  8. after reading up some more I found out the GLI I have has hydro mounts ALL around...the rear passenger side must be toast..I ordered one of those too...I checked the mount and yes it is bad altho it showed no signs of leaking?
  
  
  
  the car runs better and better everytime I drive it.....if I can stop this coolant puking and running warm issue I will be a MUCH happier dubber....
  
  
  
  pics later today.....
  
  
  
  
  thanks for you interest and help quantum!!
   cheers
• #142 by 53 willys on 09 Nov, 2008 11:08
• well I took the car out(AKA="oil spill") :lol: out for a cruise I stopped by the lake to snap some photos...I did not even wash it so be easy on me...if you look close you may be able to see some greasy finger prints on the paint!...lol I still wanna do a hardcore wax job with all 3 stages and restore the black trim..but that can come later...I gotta get the mechanical issues dialed in...
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  I still need to loom all the wires and finish hooking up my glow plug temp gauge...I also have a big nasty fitting on the head with my "test" oil psi gauge....i hate not seeing oil psi gauge so I have the test oil gauge from my tool box strung into the cab :lol:
  *note* the coolant blown out all over my intercooler piping :evil:
  
• #143 by spencebm on 09 Nov, 2008 17:30
• looks good, lower that baby down a bit
• #144 by 53 willys on 09 Nov, 2008 18:11
• Quote from: "spencebm"

  looks good, lower that baby down a bit

  
  
  thanks...yes I want to lower it bad!...but I gotta get all these other issues worked out...
  for the looks department I will be doing...
  powder coated black STOCK BBS's
  lowered(probably coilovers)
  wax
  redye the black plastics
  tint
  MK3 cupholder/center console
  B pillar seatbelts
• #145 by Smokey Eddy on 09 Nov, 2008 21:29
• How are you going about tint?
• #146 by Smokey Eddy on 09 Nov, 2008 21:37
• Quote from: "53 willys"

  Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  I've struggled with cooling problems many-a-time.
  If you have a leak anywhere it will boil over.
  If the tank is old and doesn't seal/work it will boil over (same with the lid as mentioned before)
  If the rad fan doesn't turn on it will boil over.
  If there is air in it anywhere it will boil over.
  CHECK THE LID FOR THE RUBBER SEAL
  sometimes it gets pushed back and you have to peel it back to where it's meant to be!!!!
  don't waste money on a new cap if that is the problem!!!!
  check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!! check that first!!!

  
  
  Man I feel like an idiot!!! you nailed it Ed...I looked at my cap and the oring is all messed up!!!...it came off and the threads got trashed!
  
  I got a new cap should be here in a few hours..
  thanks Ed
  Mark

  
  
  
  I'm really sorry that didn't fix it Mark  :cry:  :cry:  :cry:  :cry:
  looks like you have bigger issues somewhere. Could be the HG didn't seal right? always a possibility.
  I almost thought i'd earned a sticker with that one  :cry:
  I'm gonna get one! I'm determined! unless you already sent mine?
  You said I had to post pics of my pre-existing stickers? or something. I just put the ARP's on last night after the hone   Therefore, the sticker went on immediately after.  :wink:
  I really hope you sort out the cooling. The only thing I can think of is a bodged HG because your hardware is all fine. I had SUCH a head ache I ended up changing the expansion tank and cap and almost all hoses. I have two left to change when I get more cash flow.
• #147 by fatmobile on 09 Nov, 2008 23:30
• Is there a steady flow of coolant through that small line going to the resevoir?
   Is your vacuum pump plugged? Either into the booster or somehow setup so it isn't pumping air into the block unrestricted. That could cause oil to but shoved out the dipstick.
• #148 by 53 willys on 09 Nov, 2008 23:55
• well I think I have a problem.....I drove it home tonight and when I got home I found /noticed coolant leaking from the head gasket!!
  I'm beginning to think this IS a HG problem???
  I dont know if I should just torque the ARP studs down some more or if I should just pull the head and inspect everything??
  I torqued the studs to ARP specs...I think I went about 5ftlbs over spec...and I did NOT do a warm up re-torque either...should I have??
  if the HG is leaking..should I go metal?? new fiber stock specs? new fiber over torqued?? if so how much??
  this sucks!!!! I have not been beating on this engine at ALL..I have been very nice...expect for the one time I hit 20psi boost...I did not even realize I was boosting so high till the last second...but since then I have only been 10-12psi tops.....
  
  HG??
• #149 by 53 willys on 10 Nov, 2008 07:52
• Quote from: "libbybapa"

  Headgasket is what I've been suspecting all along.  A worse suspicion is a crack either in the head or block.
  
  Did you do the test I outlined in my last post?
  
  Andrew

  
  this sucks!!!
  I did not do the test you described yet....I plan on going out and doing it here in just a few mins now that it has sat over night........I'm pretty sure the HG is leaking tho. :cry:
  i'm BUMMED!!!!
  now should I buy a metal headgasket? and make it fit??
  I have pretty much zero faith in the fiber gasket now...