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#30
by
veeman
on 12 Apr, 2005 05:47
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>> So the tabs are strong enough to deal with the load from the front motor mount?
Seems like it. There actually isn't any "load" on the front mount during normal conditions. That snubber, from what I understand, locates the engine in crossmember and limits the vertical movement of the engine during hard acceleration. I haven't had any issues with flex or engine movement, but I replaced my side motor mounts as well at the time.
>>the master cylinder went farther than they had in a along time, into a potentially corroded portion of the master cylinder and ruined the seal.
That happened to me on my old Squareback. I think the seals "took a set" after sitting and then when I pushed on the pedal again, the seals gave out.
>>How do you check themaster and slave without the engine in?
I'm not sure about that procedure since the slave really only actuates a short distance and is meant to apply pressure on the clutch mechanism.
I was worried about my clutch when I did my swap and I was advised to change the slave and master when I had the engine out. After doing that, I see why. I think it'd be much more difficult to change with the engine installed. You've got to somehow remove the clip and pound out the roll pin in the trans. Easier when the engine is out and the trans is drooping...
In your case, I'd imagine it'd be difficult because the injection pump might be in the way of getting at the top of the trans.
Hope that helps. I know that advising to buy parts is not fun, but for me, it was "peace of mind" and the elimination of a variable to get my project going again.
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#31
by
chrissev
on 12 Apr, 2005 07:34
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So I "made" a removable valence, and the engine came out nice and easy 
, but there was nothing out of place, so I don't know why the clutch is not working :x . I'm thinking that when the engine was out and the clutch pedal went to the floor the seals in the master cylinder went farther than they had in a along time, into a potentially corroded portion of the master cylinder and ruined the seal. How do you check themaster and slave without the engine in?
that thing has a hydraulic clutch? Nice. All i've ever had is mechanical ones (never owned a vw with hydraulic).
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#32
by
jackbombay
on 12 Apr, 2005 08:35
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I'm gonna remove and disassemble the master and see what I find.
Thanks for the tips veeman, I found a slave and master for $150 total.
chrissev, I thought it was kinda nice to, untill it stopped working, now a cable set-up seems fantastic :wink:
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#33
by
jtanguay
on 12 Apr, 2005 14:19
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i loved the hyd clutch on my audi 5k. Shifting was soooooo smooth
people couldn't tell it was standard until they saw me shifting hehe
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#34
by
veeman
on 12 Apr, 2005 15:08
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>>I thought it was kinda nice to, untill it stopped working, now a cable set-up seems fantastic
I can relate... Also inspect the hose that goes down to the slave to make sure it's in good shape.
FWIW, the early Coupe GT's and probably some of the Quantums did have cable clutches...not the quattro/syncro ones though. I don't think the assemblies swap between the two styles as the cable trans's have the actuation arm on the outside of the trans, etc...
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#35
by
Mark(The Miser)UK
on 12 Apr, 2005 16:58
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>>I thought it was kinda nice to, untill it stopped working, now a cable set-up seems fantastic
I can relate... Also inspect the hose that goes down to the slave to make sure it's in good shape.
FWIW, the early Coupe GT's and probably some of the Quantums did have cable clutches...not the quattro/syncro ones though. I don't think the assemblies swap between the two styles as the cable trans's have the actuation arm on the outside of the trans, etc...
Here in the UK from sometime in '85 on, the 5 cylinder Quantums had a hydraulic clutch.
Strangely the LHD version (Europe) shares the brake servo; but the RHD version has a separate reservoir next to the heater air intake :shock:
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#36
by
jackbombay
on 14 Apr, 2005 19:53
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Here I am making life easier,
Here is apic of the inside of the slave cylinder, it seems OK, but a little rough on the side that is the bottom when it is installed, I should probably replace this, it would really suck to get it out with the motor in place. Or maybe I could reuse it? The brake fluid that was in it was TERRIBLE, little chunks and gray brown, not clear in the slightest.
EDIT- Got a new one on the way.
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#37
by
veeman
on 15 Apr, 2005 06:38
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Nice job on the removable front. Let me know if you need more pictures of the tabs to reatttach it. I used that alu strapping from Home_Cheapo for my setup (my favorite custom car store).
I have another buddy who actually removed his core support way back at the fenders (cut the spot welds). Kind of reminds me of how an A2 core support comes off, but the way you (I) did it is just as convenient.
FWIW, back when I did my swap, I ran the engine without the front on the car in the garage for quite a while. I was chasing an oil pressure problem that eventually warranted switching out the block, but it really helped having the front off the car to test everything. Since the radiator is on the driver side, no worries about that...just don't get your sleeve caught in the pulleys!
Also...a number of guys run either the oil cooler or the intercooler in front of the radiator. I've got a number of pics of these setups if you'd like. One guy I met uses a 944 intercooler turned on end and mounted on the left side in front of the radiator. Seems to work pretty well.
As I've got my oil cooler in front of the radiator, I'm going to use a UrQ (Audi Quattro) intercooler that I have in the stock UrQ position (lower passenger side front below bumper /fender) if I ever get around to it. I've got more pics if you want to see them...
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#38
by
jackbombay
on 15 Apr, 2005 08:13
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Hmmm, my oil cooler attaches right next towhere the oil filter does (down below the turbo), I don't think the hoses are long enough to get to the drivers side and that huge space in front of the radiator.
I will intercool it sometime this summer, but right now I just want it to run.
These intercoolers usually go for about $30, I was thinking about using one of them.
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#39
by
jackbombay
on 16 Apr, 2005 19:01
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I got a fair bit done today, Engine reinstalled with new clutch slave cylinder (and a working clutch now) Oil cooler location figured out, and I got the timing set, but I have a question there. When I set the motor to TDC and locked the pump the dial indicator only read .5 mm, where it is supposed to read .93 + or - .02. I set it to just under .95 mm. While it only takes a tiny turn of the pump to go from .5 to .9 I was wanting to know that this is "normal".
I also noticed that after setting the timing then turning the engine over a few times the timing would be slightly retarded, I have it set so that after a few revolutions the gauge reads .94mm (actually .037 inches). I assume that this is the prefered way to set the timing?
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#40
by
chrissev
on 17 Apr, 2005 07:15
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I got a fair bit done today, Engine reinstalled with new clutch slave cylinder (and a working clutch now) Oil cooler location figured out, and I got the timing set, but I have a question there. When I set the motor to TDC and locked the pump the dial indicator only read .5 mm, where it is supposed to read .93 + or - .02. I set it to just under .95 mm. While it only takes a tiny turn of the pump to go from .5 to .9 I was wanting to know that this is "normal".
I also noticed that after setting the timing then turning the engine over a few times the timing would be slightly retarded, I have it set so that after a few revolutions the gauge reads .94mm (actually .037 inches). I assume that this is the prefered way to set the timing?
does the pump sprocket move when you have it locked? I found with my 1.6TD that I had to hold the pump at TDC with my left hand, and put the cam pulley on with my right, otherwise the pump sprocket would move slightly back from TDC (locking pin didn't lock very well) and then it would be really out of time.
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#41
by
VWRacer
on 17 Apr, 2005 07:41
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Nice work with the removable valance, guys! I am reading all of this with mucho interest, and plan to do it to my q-ship when the engine comes out this summer. No sense rasslin' with it if I don't have to! :lol:
BTW, I have a '76 Ford E-250 van that I've had the engine out of several times, and that truck came from the factory with a removable front. To remove the engine one simply starts removing stuff from the front of the rig until one is staring at the engine. Piece of cake!
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#42
by
jackbombay
on 17 Apr, 2005 09:10
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does the pump sprocket move when you have it locked? I found with my 1.6TD that I had to hold the pump at TDC with my left hand, and put the cam pulley on with my right, otherwise the pump sprocket would move slightly back from TDC (locking pin didn't lock very well) and then it would be really out of time.
The locking pin fits well, a little slop, but not much. I guess the descrepency is just in the belt?
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#43
by
jackbombay
on 17 Apr, 2005 09:17
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Nice work with the removable valance, guys! I am reading all of this with mucho interest, and plan to do it to my q-ship when the engine comes out this summer. No sense rasslin' with it if I don't have to! :lol:
Do you have one of the 2.0 Audi TDs already?
I have never actually seen an Audi 5000 TD, even in a junk yard, I wonder how many of these were ever imported? Only 82' and 83'.
Can't wait to get this thing fired up.
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#44
by
VWRacer
on 17 Apr, 2005 12:05
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No...but the 1.6 needs a new clutch, the turbo is chewed up and puts out only about 10 psi of boost, and the engine smokes a bit. So I'm going to rebuild it.