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#45
by
ORCoaster
on 09 May, 2024 19:26
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Fatmobile, don't all VWs have gauge clusters and lights that act weird? Even with ground straps on all parts of the car? It just seems that way to me for some reason.
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#46
by
fatmobile
on 10 May, 2024 22:51
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My gas and temp gauge go up and down together, ha. But that's probably just the voltage regulator contacts.
What really had my cluster acting funny, I'm convinced,
was the little ground wire from the steering rack to the body was missing.
My own fault, I didn't realize how important it was.
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#47
by
as4k
on 13 May, 2024 18:26
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Back from PA in my other Audi. Around 20 hours of driving and the car did quite well. I was still bummed I couldnt get the 4ktd ready for the trip as there were other 4k's there of that vintage.
Ok, battery stuff. I actually took the battery back to Autozone today and they confirmed the core is shot. Ironically they didnt have a DLG battery there, couldnt get one, and sent me to a store that supposedly had one, but they only had DL versions, whatever. So at least I'll be fresh with a new battery once I sort out the cables and grounds.
Now, I've had zero issues with the gauges or lights in this car. Coolant and fuel gauge read correct, volt and oil temp seem to be as well. But I will upgrade the negative and possibly positive cable and battery connection. I did this with my other Audi a few years ago. I wouldnt mind some opinions on exactly what you guys would use.
In terms of ground locations, I'm attaching a few photos. Keep in mind this car was pretty much all apart, but the main negative cable was still there. Its attached both at the battery tray and bellhousing. There is another cable straight from the battery to the bellhousing. I can either add another to a better grounding point (opinions on where would be nice), or replace and move the "blue" cable elsewhere.
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#48
by
fatmobile
on 13 May, 2024 20:37
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That looks like plenty of ground cables.
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#49
by
as4k
on 09 Jun, 2024 18:44
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Small update. First, I still owe you guys a starting video. I'll get on that this week. We moved a few months ago, had the car show in PA, and just got back from a cruise, so things have been busy and I have not done many car related things. I did however put down a list of things I need to get done on this thing. I also hooked up the new battery and gave the car a start, idle, and to see if it moved (since I messed with the clutch cable many months ago).
I'll let you guys weigh in on the starting when I post the video. I still need to see why injector 4 is slightly leaking, but I do have a replacement to toss in. The engine actually seems to vibrate more than it used to when it was at my other home in the garage. I'll check the engine mounts and such there. I did try to move the car and it does move in reverse and 1st! Clutch engagement seems good, but the pedal needs some adjusting as it doesnt fully return. I'm more of a hydraulic clutch guy so this is all new stuff. Cable is brand new OEM.
Lastly, I did buy some actual timing tools (dial indicator) as well. My friend who is the VW diesel guru has some and has timed my engine and pump. Figure I'll learn how to do it myself so I can understand too. When I pull the crank sandwich off to replace the crank bolt I'll have us verify the timing again.
More to come! Appreciate everyone here!
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#50
by
Dennis Froelich
on 10 Jun, 2024 07:51
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Thanks for the update sir!!
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#51
by
as4k
on 10 Jun, 2024 14:29
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Ok, video time. Its unlisted for now, so just click or copy the link.
Outside temp was about 70 degrees and this was the first time trying to start today. I have never touched the advance knob on the left side of the dash, FYI. My friend said he never really touches it either and his car starts/runs fine.
Typically I give the car more pedal after it initially starts and stalls out, so sorry for the repeated starts/stalls. Alternator belt was quite loose, so thats the reason for the squeal. The car has never just started and idled without a little help from the go pedal. Once started I can let off slow and it will idle ok, but does surge sometimes. You can hear this once I hop out of the car and head to the engine bay quick. The car smokes the same amount from the tailpipe no matter warm/cold. This is without fixing injector 4. Will fix asap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsSW3VjAV84
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#52
by
fatmobile
on 10 Jun, 2024 21:56
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Try pulling the cold start lever just after it starts to run.
Leave it in while cranking.
If you've never used it, you will be surprised by how well it evens the idle out.
Looks like 2 links to the same video.
Good video, nice engine shots.
Sounds like it smooths out and idles nice.
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#53
by
as4k
on 11 Jun, 2024 06:11
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Try pulling the cold start lever just after it starts to run.
Leave it in while cranking.
If you've never used it, you will be surprised by how well it evens the idle out.
Looks like 2 links to the same video.
Good video, nice engine shots.
Sounds like it smooths out and idles nice.
Oops, didnt mean to double dip on the link
(I cleaned it out for you. ORCoaster)
In terms of starting, I'll try that. I'll see if I can work on my to do list items soon then provide an update. I wasnt sure about the idle. With no tach or previous tdi experience, I was just going by sound when I adjusted it.
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#54
by
as4k
on 16 Jul, 2024 20:18
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https://youtu.be/QGtBX2cP9Jc?si=33xQ_cj3hVfsu1ahAlright, so I opted to attempt to move this thing. I still need to mess with the clutch cable a bit. Bear with the slipping clutch as I'm def not used to this vehicle.
Now the car is in a better place (not on rocks) to work. Got a slew of things I wanna do before I attempt to take it down the road. I'm hoping the smoke clears out a bit....
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#55
by
fatmobile
on 16 Jul, 2024 23:03
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Always good to have them moving, and stopping.
That is a little smokey.
Could be air in the fuel.
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#56
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Jul, 2024 18:00
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Timing clack?
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#57
by
as4k
on 20 Jul, 2024 17:57
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With the car moved I'm ready to tackle some things.
- Remove accessory belts, crank pulley "sandwich" and inspect crank bolt (you recall the photo I had earlier where it didnt seem long enough as the head was sunk into the hole area)
- Check timing. I have Bentley manuals and all sorts of stuff for various older models. The 4000 Bentley of this vintage honestly has a 1 pager for the turbo diesel and its only about the injectors. I found the Quantum Bentley has a very nice section for the turbo diesel motor. I also found that the VAG 1367 can check the idle speed on these. I have one and that will make seeing the idle speed easier
. Will get some help to verify and dial in the timing. Could this be a cause for the smokyness?
- Alternator bracket. The factory one doesnt have the teeth section and accompanying star adjuster like some of the later cars do. I'll look at this and see if I can adapt one as the alternator does get a bit loose.
- Check engine mounts
- Check clutch cable. This one has the adjustment further up the cable near the firewall. I'm used to hydraulic stuff so adjusting this is new to me.
- Engine oil and filter change
- Transmission fluid change
- Brakes. I need to test the booster to see if it actually holds vacuum. Pedal is hard and doesnt get soft like I think it should. I have a new booster and master if needed but want to actually diag to see whats wrong.
Dying to get this thing moving! Just wish I knew more about these. If this was a 5cyl gasser then I'd have zero issues
Thanks guys!
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#58
by
ORCoaster
on 21 Jul, 2024 18:56
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Sounds like more than a weekends worth of work to me. But then again, I take it easy when I work on my truck as it is supposed to be my relaxing time.
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#59
by
fatmobile
on 21 Jul, 2024 21:23
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I'd check to see if the vacuum pump is pulling vacuum before I'd worry about the brake booster.
The alternator is on the back side of the engine on this model right?
Haven't seen that setup for a while.