Sharing my 1.6td project

[as4k]

Originally the vac pump wasnt doing anything.  I bought a seal kit to replace the original but that didnt work.  I ended up with a new unit that now pulls good vacuum.  I'll check this again though.
Alternator is at the passenger side of the engine.  It of course has a unique bracket that attaches to the block.  Since this is longitudinal its "special" .  Some of these had AC but this one does not, so that changes the bracketry too.

Yeah, def a lot of work.  I take my time and enjoy this stuff.  With moving house stuff has taken precedence, so there hasnt been much wrenching.  I gotta get this thing moving though! 

[Rossfeld]

Registered because I was looking for some 4k Diesel exhaust info and stumbled into here. Before I get to that and my other Qs...

on the tach, if you can find the same cluster you have but with a tachometer for a gas engine then you can run a Dakota digital converter.

But Why?  and that isn't stock, so I don't like to do that.  I prefer the long way around and convert the tach to use the alt wire which makes it difficult to do.  That is just me.

I just ordered a cluster/circuitboard/the whole system off ebay to get the tach instead of the clock. Is it not going to be straight swap? Looking at the 7zap parts it seems like you can have clock or tach+clock combo and everything stays the same?  Unhelpfully they don't have part numbers for the circuit board or gauges so we can see how many variants there are of each.

Because I was going to suggest figuring out what the input source for the cluster is to get an idle reading.

Really enjoying this thread because I have an 82 4k Diesel NA and seeing how different your engine compartment is, is enlightening.

Qs for this car specifically
-It seems like from the early photos to the video, you redid the external trim? Like it goes from an early 80s to a mid 80s(lights, Audi badge near door sill, etc) or are there two? Great color and condition. Mine is a deep red and has some Wisconsin rust unfortunately, but I do have cooler rims. Not to dump on yours obviously.
-In which case, where did your original lights go? I'm kinda in need of the bumper fog/turn signals...
-Do you have AC? I swear I have a compressor on the exhaust/inlet side of my engine and the lines but haven't spied my condenser yet or any sort of AC system cabin-side. Unless it's all very small.
-What are you doing for tire brands these days? And are you doing 13 or 14 rims?

General Q(why I joined):

I'm doing new exhaust because mine has rotted out. And I have a pair of 2 inch 'turbo mufflers' in boxes. Btw if you need one let me know. So I figure I'll redo my pipes at 2 inches to match up my new muffler. What's a part number or good source for an affordable 4-stud downpipe at 2 inches?

My CR Diesel seems to go exhaust manifold>a mile of pipe>muffler/resonator/silencer>over the rear axle and to freedom. That's the factory layout at least. Mine had small mufflers before and after rear axle but it seems like I only need and can get away with one? It's not exactly waking the neighbors even on the current straight pipe configuration.

I left the rear silencer on to help law enforcement ignore me but it's kinda cruddy too so I figure go with my shiny and free muffler and build an exhaust system to fit that. A little better flow along the entire path seems like a good thing but I can always adapt it to my existing smaller downpipe.



Have always toyed with the idea of doing a turbo on mine but having read a few threads here and elsewhere, you really need to get the original TD engine to have the best chance for reliability and longevity. Tough I have no intension of aftermarketing it or cranking it up, I just wanted some more torque and top speed on the highway since 80mph seems to be the minimum cruising speed these days.

I have no intension of cranking the boost past stock so maybe I can slap a turbo on a CR and be fine with a few modifications to accommodate it.

[as4k]

So, this car is interesting because it has a 1/81 build date.  The story with the car has a few things that I wish could be verified.  The car as far as I know, is "original" in terms of the body, interior, and pretty much everything except the original block in which part of it left the chat.  When I search for parts I have to use 1982 because in 1981 nothing comes up in ETKA or 7zap for the 4ktd.  The original EGR equipment too, I cannot locate in any parts catalog.  So this car is pretty special and unique.  I still think it was a demo and also emissions test car for Audi/VW.  The stamps in the book for service and the mileage, indicate it was a test mule of some kind. 

In terms of lights, which ones are you referring to?  I replaced the sealed beams up front with H1's and H4's.  I also have brand new turn signals to put on from a shipment of parts from Audi Tradition over the pond.

The body on this thing I'll say is "survivor-like".  It spent pretty much its entire life on the east coast and has its share of problems, but nothing crazy.  I struggle with keeping it mostly original due to the odd nature of it.  This is a non AC car.  I have a few folks that either have a 4ktd or a 4kd with AC and the compressor is on the passenger side and of course has a different bracket for both the AC and alternator to share. 

Car currently has the original 13's on it and I've been trying to find the silly clips that hold the center caps on.  For originality I'll clean up and refinish the 13's and run them.  I thought about snowflakes too, which I think would look nice, but its not an original Audi wheel (VW yes...).

Thinking of the exhaust, I know it has a rear muffler and I think only a muffler a bit further up before the rear axle.  I'll have to get under there again to verify.  I had found some original exhaust pieces on ebay but never pulled the trigger.  Would be interested to see what mufflers you have!

So, this car is very unique and quite rare.  Whatever 4ktd's they sold here, which are so few, were mostly automatics.  This one has the dual radiator set up too, which just harks the later older Audi's with a main and aux radiator.  This car obviously doesnt need this much cooling but I couldnt bring myself to delete the side mount.  It continues to be a puzzle without a box.  I really hope to get it road worthy soon so I can take it to Euro District in early October.

[Rossfeld]

In terms of lights, which ones are you referring to?  I replaced the sealed beams up front with H1's and H4's.  I also have brand new turn signals to put on from a shipment of parts from Audi Tradition over the pond.

This video is what's confusing me youtube dot com /watch?v=QGtBX2cP9Jc

Your headlights, turn/fog in the bumper, and door trim looks mid 80s rather than early 80s. Compare it to one of your first photos of it on casters in the garage. That's where I'm mystified.

riotsqrl.wordpress dot com/wp-content/uploads/2024/07/20240728_122320-collage.jpg

I notice you have a cruise control stalk and I don't.

Btw on your startup vid, are you not using the enricher knob? I use mine even in summer. It really benefits from it at startup, and also revving it a little so it gets out of the idle circuit. Mine has min and max throttle switches at either end of the travel so getting it "off" the bottom, even for a moment, seems to help wake it up. Plus I have a switch of some kind under the throttle pedal if I mash it to 101%. I don't know if that duplicates or otherwise suplements the max throttle position switch on top of the engine. Or even what it does. It's not like this thing has a brain...

I'm running the best diesel I can get, Stanadyne additive, and Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 with a good Wix filter. I have some nasty winters so that's a good oil, plus I have a block heater.

The random muffler inventory I have are Dynomax/California Boss Turbo Mufflers, 2 inches. One is a little bigger than the other, both offset. I haven't stuck one under the car yet to see what fitment is like...

[as4k]

Ah ok.  I have 2 older Audi's.  The Graphite Metallic is a 5cyl gasser.  The Helios Blue is the 4ktd referenced here.

This car does have cruise but does not have the electronic switches on top of the injection pump.  I originally thought they were missing so I bought new ones, only to discover they dont apply on this car.  Correct, I've actually never used the knob.  My friend, who is a stellar diesel VW guy, says he never uses it on his caddy truck.  His pump like mine was rebuilt by Giles, so I kind of have been following his lead.  I'll give it a shot though and see what happens.  It may help my starting situation.

An oil change is on my list.  I do have Rotella T6 in there now and I'll use that again.  I use Mann filters out of habit . 

Not sure what all you've seen in this thread.  Here is a very rough video I made a few years ago when I got the car.

https://youtu.be/p8LZ_814RyA?si=UVFpW8KNr-k5ena2

[as4k]

Some good news, and some typical frustration.

Good news is that after some testing I believe the hard brake pedal issue I've been having is fixed.  The valve on the booster needed replacing (vac pump was already replaced).  Pedal has a good feel now.  Glad it wasnt the booster itself. 
Injector #4 is still barely leaking towards the bottom.  I have a spare injector but the ones I put in were newly rebuilt, so I dunno.  I'm not one for swapping parts until I figure out whats wrong, but in this case maybe a quick swap is necessary.
Clutch cable and release lever.  I've had a holy war with this thing.  First of all, the car came to me with the trans in, but nothing hooked up to it.  I do not remember if the PO ever removed the release lever.  At any rate, when I ptut the engine and clutch cable in, I just hooked the cable up, and lifted the other part of the cable into the bracket.  Fast forward to driving it for the first time, engagement was just at the top of the pedal and the car was undrivable.  Clutch cable was super tight, so something was wrong.  Bentley has a measurement from the bracket to the release lever.  I've messed with this so much and think I'm close, but something doesnt seem right.  Thought I had it adjusted nicely today, but came across the same issue of a high engagement point.  I did adjust the cable but once I do this the pedal inside has some dead space, which doesnt seem right.
The Bentley doesnt list this type of cable and adjustment, which is my luck.  The old (likely original) cable I pulled off is the same style, with the adjustment near the firewall.  New cable I got is the same PN and style.  I also got a different style (not installed) with adjustment near the bracket.
So I've monkeyd around with this a lot.  Anyone with a longitudinal diesel or turbo diesel have a measurement or maybe some help?  If I use the measurement from the Bentley the cable has too much slack once its hooked up and I can easily unhook it. 

The photos below are before I messed with stuff.  The adjustment now is somewhat in the middle, but pedal has some play.

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[fatmobile]

 Injector is leaking near the bottom, where it meets the head?

[as4k]

Injector is leaking near the bottom, where it meets the head?

Sort of.  I thought it may be coming from the cap on the nipple further up.  I tightened the nut holding the injector line to the injector, that helped.  I'll have to look a bit more closely.  I also tried to tighten the top portion of the injector.

Odd question for anyone here.  I have a VAG1367 and was going to use it for the first time today to check the idle speed on this thing.  To my dismay that portion of the tool doesnt seem to work, or I'm missing something.  There are the positive and negative leads on the left.  The bottom has a lead for the coil and #1 ignition wire.  Top has the RPM sensor and a timing light.  When this thing powers on the red LED above the plug for the RPM sensor comes on, but then goes off.  I cannot find instructions on this for a diesel engine.  The Bentley just says to hook it up per manufacturers specs.  Does either the green lead or the one next to it get somehow connected to something on the td engine? 

[Rossfeld]

 I finally got my 82 4k D running after two months down for repairs, tried to reverse out of the shop, and couldn't find my clutch pedal. The cable had slipped off top cabin-side. Which is baffling because I'd done nothing clutch related. Even when I needed to shift into or out of neutral I just moved the lever at rest.

Also my fanbelts are suddenly screeching like they were getting murdered. Again, no engine maintenance. Just driveshafts/suspension/brakes.

On mine I have a W-terminal on the alternator. Red/Black/Yellow wiring that goes straight to behind the dash and is Pin 9 on the 12-pin connector. If I ground a multimeter and run AC volts, I get signal there. If I press the throttle the signal goes up. I release, it goes down. Depending on your alternator you might have signal. I'm at least the second owner of this car, and my Haynes manual doesn't include diesel wiring(or diesel anything) so I'm not sure what the W-terminal wire is for in 'factory' mode since these things never came with tachs and if you rig one up you have to convert so....

My wiring may be an add on for something else.

Also Terminal 9 is 'double' plugged and has another red power wire going to something else. btw I'd love to cost-up having these foil circuitboards remade in really really thin solid material. If we can do them relatively affordable maybe there's a bulk buy opportunity. Awfully fragile when you're replacing bulbs.

Currently rigging up a Dakota Digital and during testing was getting calibration signal to the tach I got off ebay, but nothing with engine running. Since I'm running straight off the alternator I might need to go to the higher voltage setting.

Brakes - New rotors and pads and bled the brakes and rebuilt the caliper and the pedal is as bad as it was before. In the sense that I've never had 'great' brakes in a 4k. It just sorta slows down. The pedal is not mushy but it's not stiff either. It feels like weak material or something. I wish I could describe my brake pedal as too hard. May bleed the drums to see if that helps overall.

Pads are resting against the rotor too so I'll have to double check my thickness isn't too much(the bane of modern parts on old cars) and that the piston was fully pushed back.

New steering arms and identical length so getting alignment is a little funky. I previously had a really short steering arm and a 'normal' length adjustable one. When the steering is centered is the bracket for the steering arms at the midpoint of the vehicle? I'm struggling to identify a 'zero' point from which to determine where my steering wheel is centered and how much I need to adjust the tie rod lengths to my uprights. I'm at 3 and a bit turns of wheel lock but even going to halfway doesn't seem right.

Still amused at how different our cars sound. I don't know if it's turbo vs non but you sound like every diesel I've heard. Chug-chug-chug. I'm much more tick-tick-tick.

[as4k]

Some news on this car.  Its going to be up for sale soon looking for a new home.  I feel pretty good with where the car is now versus where it was when I got it 2 years ago.  Going to finish up a few things shortly then hopefully somebody else can give it a good home and care for it.  This place is a fantastic resource and everyone here has been top notch in terms of help and information.  Will share more and some "closing thoughts" when the car hopefully sells.  Got another Audi on the way which will be a bit easier for me to work with.  I likely wont post it anywhere now except for a few fb Audi sites.  If anyone here was or is interested I'll leave my email here.  audisport4000 AT gmail DOT com
Thanks all!

[as4k]

Still working over here.  Last month we went over the timing again and made an adjustment at the injection pump.  After that, car was still hard to start and did smoke a bit out the back.  My friend mentioned maybe low compression.  I didnt really want to hear that given the rebuilt head and also block that had been gone through.  Injection pump was rebuilt but then sat for a good 10 years before usage.
Anyone have suggestions on a good compression test kit?  I watched a few videos on how its done on diesel engines.  One guy totally removed the fuel lines.  Is that totally necessary?  Can I just undo the connection at the solenoid then crank?  Any advice or BTDT here is appreciated.  While I'm at my wits end with this I do want to find out whats going on.  After I know then a course of action to fix it .

Thanks guys!

[ORCoaster]

I remove the lines so that I have the best access to the injectors.  I use that adapter that goes into the injector body with the spacers and don't have any of the others in their places.  It seems to help with the cranking not having the backpressure

[as4k]

I remove the lines so that I have the best access to the injectors.  I use that adapter that goes into the injector body with the spacers and don't have any of the others in their places.  It seems to help with the cranking not having the backpressure

Ok, that does help.  I also see the kit has an adapter to put into the glow plug hole.  Either way I'll get this done soon because I wanna know if its the pump OR something engine related (which it shouldnt be, but anything can happen).