The HE221W 5cm you have do have another downpipe flange than this HE200WG 5cm.
V-band flanges you tried where from silicone intakes? They have different dimensions on their v-band connections compared to the company I linked to earlier. The only certain thing about a v-band connection is the tube dimension it is meant to be welded to. How they make the flange and clamps vary by who's making them
v-band is not needed but it is oh so nice to have if you ever need to take exhaust off and on again a few times, no need to fiddle with small nuts and washers in tight spots
HX30W, HX35W, HX40W and even bigger all have wastegate actuators directly bolted onto the turbine housings, use stainless for a bracket as it doesn't conduct heat as good as mild steel
HX30W (turbine housing mounted actuator) vs. HE221W (compressor housing mounted actuator):
You don't need a V band on the exhaust, but it makes it so nice to line it all up and take on and off. I can go out to the car right now in 13f weather with my 13mm gear wrench and take the exhaust off in about 60 seconds, start to finish out of car and in hand. Best thing I did while making the downpipe was the 2 vband connections.
You don't need a V band on the exhaust, but it makes it so nice to line it all up and take on and off. I can go out to the car right now in 13f weather with my 13mm gear wrench and take the exhaust off in about 60 seconds, start to finish out of car and in hand. Best thing I did while making the downpipe was the 2 vband connections.
Sounds good but all the V-band adapters and clamps I find don't have enough detailed dimensions for me to shell out the bucks.
Hopefully, I won't be taking this off too many times once I get all the details done.
You don't need a V band on the exhaust, but it makes it so nice to line it all up and take on and off. I can go out to the car right now in 13f weather with my 13mm gear wrench and take the exhaust off in about 60 seconds, start to finish out of car and in hand. Best thing I did while making the downpipe was the 2 vband connections.
Sounds good but all the V-band adapters and clamps I find don't have enough detailed dimensions for me to shell out the bucks.
Hopefully, I won't be taking this off too many times once I get all the details done.
I guess if you ever take it off you could add it then. I ran 3" turbo back. For you to do the same you would probably only need 1 v band assembly 3" or whatever diameter your pipe is. Weld it to your output flange and weld the other on your downpipe or exhaust. Done.
Here is a link to a cheap 3" one on ebay, if you ever decide to use this route.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-3-and-4-V-Band-Clamps-with-Flanges-NEW-CNC-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Turbo-/200934012277?pt=Apparel_Merchandise&var=&hash=item2ec899b575&vxp=mtr
what about letting it clocked how it comes and then flipping it so the compressor is on the otherside?
Here is a link to a cheap 3" one on ebay, if you ever decide to use this route.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-3-and-4-V-Band-Clamps-with-Flanges-NEW-CNC-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Turbo-/200934012277?pt=Apparel_Merchandise&var=&hash=item2ec899b575&vxp=mtr
Thanks for the link - good price. I ordered the 2-1/2" but will possibly save it for another time. If the rest of the weekend is productive, I should almost have this done by Sunday afternoon.
what about letting it clocked how it comes and then flipping it so the compressor is on the otherside?
I suppose I could try it but I think it would actually end up taking more work.
Here's the new adapter Sorry bout the blurr.
It mounts using two 8 mm SHCS into the original tapped holes on the turbo flange.
I slightly relocated the other two 8 mm holes (using the mill with a boring head) in the flange to line up with the manifold, re-bored them, and tapped them for 10 mm. The plate is made to let these two bolts go straight through and into the new threads on the turbo.
Then I drilled and tapped the plate for the two 10 mm bolts (above) which are closer together.
It was a bit confusing getting it all worked out but it ended up working just dandy.
Just for excercise, tap that for a drive pressure sensor....
Just for excercise, tap that for a drive pressure sensor....
My dash is already so crowded with gauges to watch - I hardly have time to text!
I may tap it for a pot mount though if I can't figure out a way to line everything up properly.
Here's an update on my progress
Exhaust plate:
Fit check
Steel fab for gate clearance
Welded on the 180 after several more fit checks
Blended the ID for good flow
I wish I could have tig-welded it all up but the 180 was too rusty (should have bought a new one but oh well, I'm done with this bit.
In case anyone is wondering, that port on the 180 is for an O2 sensor. My EGT port is in the manifold where it belongs. Also, that tab on the plate is for a possible support bracket I will install off the motor mount arm (or the block) to assist in supporting all this weight. My k-14 came loose twice and it's really annoying.
This is where the V band could go if you want next time. That makes it so easy to add another 180 section whenever this rusts off. You aren't in Ohio so you might not have to worry about that much.
Man I wish I had the cash Id have you make me a downpipe flange and an adapter plate!
Man I wish I had the cash Id have you make me a downpipe flange and an adapter plate!
Besides no time, the tough part would be the fit-up which needs the car, and the turbo mounted. Took about five crawls under the van to get it right. The bend just slips between the motor mount support bar and the frame - neither of which move with the motor. It took a few tries to get it centered. As I was too lazy to drag the welder out and re-connect everything, I just eye-balled it (probably took longer than moving the welder would have).
As it was, this took every bit of two days.
Next chore will be figuring out hoe to make/mount the new bracket for the boost pot.
