Holset replaces K-14 - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Holset replaces K-14 by Gizmoman on 26 Feb, 2014 17:36
• Figured I'd start a new thread as the previous one http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=34417.0 ended up changing considerably over seven pages. Besides, the title is more relevant for those doing a search.
  
  The new Cummins Holset HE200WE turbo I purchased through Alcaid http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=586 arrived today (actually 2 weeks earlier than predicted!). The K-14 just can't push enough air to keep up with the Giles IP and my goal is to keep the EGT temps below 1300F climbing the notorious grade out of East LA on the 15 towards Barstow. I believe it's nearly 6% for several miles. I'm hoping this will push the 4,000 lb+ van at 65 up that grade (I have a score to settle).
  
  Here are some photos to drool over
  
  Well packaged for the most part.
  
  
  
  
  
  Compared to the K-14
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Alcaid has been great through all of this decision making and has answered every question I threw at him.
  
  Now the real work begins. I will have to make up a new drain line and connection. The oil feed line as well. I'ts a bit disappointing that the boost canister is hard mounted to the compressor housing as clocking is going to be a real PITA. Should have studied the photos better. Another obvious bit is a proper V-clamp and fitting for the compressor outlet.
  
  I will also need to look into a new drain line. The fitting tig welded to the pan is a #8 and Alcaid recommends I go no smaller than #10 - Ugg.
  
  As for the adapter to bolt this to my manifold - right now I am thinking I may need to make a short steel elbow (of some angle) with a 1/2" flange on each end so I can get this hunk clocked properly.
  
  If anyone has installed one of these on an AAZ, please chime in.
  
  I'll be working on it this weekend if the creek don't rise (not likely).
• #1 by theman53 on 26 Feb, 2014 18:16
• Clocking the housing is cake...if you have a gigantic set of snap ring pliers. You have to take the snap ring off the cold side and remove the pin. Then when you reinstall the snap ring you can rotate it. Same thing with the exhaust side but it is much easier with the V band. Remove the v band and the locating pin in the housing, now it will rotate with no problems. At least on mine that is the way it was, 1 locating pin in each housing. The center section spins free of the 2 if you have it loose, so you can achieve many positions. Here is how mine looked from the wastegate standpoint.
  
• #2 by Gizmoman on 26 Feb, 2014 19:03
• Thanks theman,
  
  Sweet
  
  I'll bet HF has some big ones (snap ring pliers) for cheap.
  
  I can understand that this will allow me to rotate the center section as needed. The problem will be rotating the compressor housing independently from the exhaust side housing as the boost pot is mounted on the compressor and the actuator rod to the exhaust dump valve needs to stay in line.
  
  
  
  I'm pretty sure I need to have one housing rotated different (out of line) from the other to make things work and I don't know how I can do that without making a new mount for the boost pot somehow.
• #3 by theman53 on 26 Feb, 2014 21:21
• For some reason I think that it is possible to do it, I cannot remember right now, but I know mine isn't pointed the same as it was stock. Once you rotate it, you may see quickly, but once the pins are out it should work for you.
• #4 by Gizmoman on 27 Feb, 2014 06:33
• Quote from: theman53 on 26 Feb, 2014 21:21

  For some reason I think that it is possible to do it, I cannot remember right now, but I know mine isn't pointed the same as it was stock. Once you rotate it, you may see quickly, but once the pins are out it should work for you.
  

  
  I'll give it a shot but the rod orientation is pretty specific and the can is going to move if the compressor housing needs to rotate. - and it will because right now it's pointed directly at the head with no room for an elbow. You mounted yours though and our engines aren't that different so I must be missing something.
  
  Probably have to make snap-ring pliers to get that huge bugger out. The only one's I found that would be up to the task are quite spendy.
• #5 by carrizog60 on 27 Feb, 2014 11:17
• you can remove the can from the cold side and rotate to where you need the exhaust to be.
  then just use some thick steel and make a piece bolting to the original place and bolt the can to that piece.
  it looks that the mounting on the charger are stong enough to do that
• #6 by Gizmoman on 27 Feb, 2014 17:12
• Quote from: carrizog60 on 27 Feb, 2014 11:17

  you can remove the can from the cold side and rotate to where you need the exhaust to be.
  then just use some thick steel and make a piece bolting to the original place and bolt the can to that piece.
  it looks that the mounting on the charger are stong enough to do that
  

  I won't know till I actually get a chance to dry-fit it but it looks as though the mount on the compressor housing is in the way as well. If I need to cut it off, I will do so and come up with a different mount entirely.
• #7 by Gizmoman on 27 Feb, 2014 18:31
• Super snap-ring pliers - Took a cheap set of needle nose pliers and ground the tips down. Hmm, not enough leverage to squeeze the huge snap-ring closed enough. Add cheaters - perfect. The snap ring was easy to get to once I removed the exhaust side.
  
  
  
  Removed the pins as theman suggested and everything now rotates where it will need to be.
  
  Here is a photo of a rough mock up ( hex nuts represent the spacer plate I will need to make)
  
  
  
  As you can see in the above image, the aluminum bracket for the pot is nearly 180 degrees from the gate crank 
  
  Making a new bracket for the pot wont be a big deal but if my rough assembly is correct, the rod from the pot goes directly over the drain port when its clocked at 6:00 
  
  We'll see how it works out once mounted on the engine.
• #8 by theman53 on 27 Feb, 2014 18:53
• The other option is to build your own exhaust mani from tubes...
• #9 by Gizmoman on 27 Feb, 2014 19:23
• Quote from: theman53 on 27 Feb, 2014 18:53

  The other option is to build your own exhaust mani from tubes...
  

  
  Yeah, that's what Alkaid suggested via email.
  I took tomorrow off so I'll do a quick check on the engine if it isn't pouring rain (although I really hope it is - direr than a popcorn fart here).
• #10 by Alcaid on 27 Feb, 2014 23:25
• Hi Jim, regarding downpipe you need to make a flange like in the CAD drawing I sent you, some 3" tubing and a 3" v-band set end you are good to go to make something like this:
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
• #11 by Alcaid on 27 Feb, 2014 23:39
• Regarding the compressor outlet, I have not yet found the correct v-band clamp as the ones I have ordered up until now have been too big 
  
  I have one of these elbows and it fits the HE200 series turbochargers (90° transition to 2.5") so could get you some measurements to make your own straight adapter in a lathe. No need to go bigger than 2". But still needs a v-band clamp and an o-ring but the latter is easy to solve.
  
  
  
  Easiest thing to do is to just grind down the v-band flange on the compressor outlet somewhat and clamp on a silicone hose.
• #12 by Alcaid on 28 Feb, 2014 00:31
• SPD Exhaust has the exact same v-band flange OD on their 1.5" v-bands that there is on these small Holsets (2.24"): http://www.spdexhaust.com/VBK_B.html#
  
  Remember that there needs to be an o-ring to seal a v-band on the air side of things. On exhaust heating the flanges will make them seal.
• #13 by Alcaid on 28 Feb, 2014 00:43
• This one might do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Band-Clamp-High-Temp-Stainless-Steel-1-5-Aviation-Military-Grade-Manifold-/151219203086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23355dec0e
• #14 by Gizmoman on 28 Feb, 2014 05:24
• Wealth of info Alcaid - thank you very much!