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#60
by
theman53
on 02 Aug, 2010 05:41
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If I were you I would get new rings. At least 3 on this board have had excessive blowby and oil usage in 10,000 miles or less with his rings. All that used his pistons with other rings have been happy from what I read. Autohaus has a good selection, just make sure you watch the qtys as some are sold as sets and some are sold per peice.
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#61
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 09:39
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Here the picture from the head
this one is cracked from the prechamber to the intake valve and then between each valve
heres a crack where the injector goes
this is where the lifter was cracked and screwed up
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#62
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 09:43
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ill just go ahead and get new rings because that a crucial part but i got to find some rings that fit .040 over pistons
Im going to be moving to college soon here in the next week so ill be pretty busy and wont get to workon anything for a while probably
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#63
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Aug, 2010 10:30
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AutohausAZ and many others prices are actually lower than Prothes price on rings. His pistons are what has the unbeatable price.
I don't have all my links on this laptop.
Maybe some others can help out with links to guys like Jack in Ohio, and MykeW our sponsor - if you can't find them at AutohausAZ or egermanparts or the like.
A lotta guys would run that head again. Especially if they had no immediate or easy alternative.
The injector boss crack would concern me the most.
Overall, if i had option, i'd try to source a better head.
I'd want to verify those pistons in the bores ASAP.
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#64
by
wolfsburged
on 02 Aug, 2010 13:56
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ill just go ahead and get new rings because that a crucial part but i got to find some rings that fit .040 over pistons
Im going to be moving to college soon here in the next week so ill be pretty busy and wont get to workon anything for a while probably
Where are you going to college?
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#65
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 14:21
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if i run that head again can i get some one to tig weld that injector boss? and make it like new?
i cant check the piston to bore yet there still not done at the machine shop, but they have one of my pistons.
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#66
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 14:24
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[/quote]
Where are you going to college?
[/quote]
Im going to college in Wilmington to cape fear CC for there diesel program
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#67
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Aug, 2010 14:55
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tig weld that injector boss?
they have one of my pistons.
Yes on the tig weld.
The precup would need to be staked around the perimeter for some insurance too.
I can't tell what amount of damage the lifter did that much.
It looks like a small scratch.
But ... if i were you ... i'd be driving to GSO tomorrow and checking that head out. I was just saying if no alternatives existed.
Its good they have a piston. Maybe they have pulled the rings - or will pull the rings - and advise the ring status. You might can get a refund on the rings if they are found out of spec.
I'm going to ask BYM to join the thread and have a look at your head pix.
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#68
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Aug, 2010 15:09
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I asked BYM to give a look and an opinion.
Got to thinking about this being a TD, and the mods you've done on the other car you have. If you go throwing above stock fuel and boost levels at this thing eventually - it might not be good to re-use that head in the long run. Concerning the crack going to the precup.
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#69
by
theman53
on 02 Aug, 2010 16:37
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If he has the tig out you could fix everything that is cracked and have it remachined. With the head off it should be easy to tig the injector boss. I had a guy tig one for me on the car and it worked. I don't have a spare mech head or I would let you borrow, buy, or trade when yours was fixed. I am thinking in a pinch you might be able to plug the oil drain in a hydro head. I think saurkrat did it with a 1.9L on a 1.5 block, not for sure though. It maybe more work than going on fleabay and finding a mech head and rebuilding it.
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#70
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 18:59
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tig weld that injector boss?
they have one of my pistons.
Yes on the tig weld.
The precup would need to be staked around the perimeter for some insurance too.
I can't tell what amount of damage the lifter did that much.
It looks like a small scratch.
But ... if i were you ... i'd be driving to GSO tomorrow and checking that head out. I was just saying if no alternatives existed.
Its good they have a piston. Maybe they have pulled the rings - or will pull the rings - and advise the ring status. You might can get a refund on the rings if they are found out of spec.
I'm going to ask BYM to join the thread and have a look at your head pix.
How much do you think that head will be? Im a little limited on money right now i know this is not the best time to start a rebuild but i started it so i have to finish plus i didnt know i would run into all these problems.
Im trying to find the cheapest way to rebuild the head so i think tig welding it would be pretty cheap.
And im not going to do the things ive done to my TDI to this car, this is going to be just a get in and go car that gets 50MPG'S
would i have to take the precup out to weld that crack? and would i have to take the valve seats out to weld the cracks in between them?
theman53 thanks for offering to buy or trade if you had one, but i dont want to have to fix the extra oil hole on a hydro head thats more than want i want to do.
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#71
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Aug, 2010 20:24
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Just go get that head tomorrow.
Silver 85 Golf 4door NA 5spd - row #1
Greensboro Auto Parts (GAPCO) U-Pull-It
$30-40 and they'll charge extra for the injectors if you leave them in more than likely ($5 each).
Then they'll have a core charge of 5-10 for the head. You can take some old car batteries ($5 each) to use for core swaps, old alternators, old starters, some kinda junk head, or just pay the core charge.
Remember to always exert tool force TOWARDS the engine - NOT towards the Radiator - when removing OR installing injectors.
Take a wire brush and check the chambers good after its pulled.
I like the toothbrush sized ones from HarborFreight. And prefer to use the brass one on aluminum.
Last time i was there, only the inj pump and inj lines were gone.
I got the vane vac pump.
I need the cam gear and bolt from the head - or your old ones.
And the IM shaft pulley with bolt.
Need the IM shaft too - but not 100% sure it will come out still in the car. It might tho. Grab that stuff for me if you can. I'll come get it and pay you. It will be cheap.
The tig welding will cost you about that much probly.
The real problem is finding the right shop with the right equipment that will be able to surface the head after its welded.
The precups are hard - the head is soft - then the welds.
Most places cant do our heads - and its gonna cost too.
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#72
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 22:08
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Just go get that head tomorrow.
Silver 85 Golf 4door NA 5spd - row #1
Greensboro Auto Parts (GAPCO) U-Pull-It
$30-40 and they'll charge extra for the injectors if you leave them in more than likely ($5 each).
Then they'll have a core charge of 5-10 for the head. You can take some old car batteries ($5 each) to use for core swaps, old alternators, old starters, some kinda junk head, or just pay the core charge.
Remember to always exert tool force TOWARDS the engine - NOT towards the Radiator - when removing OR installing injectors.
Take a wire brush and check the chambers good after its pulled.
I like the toothbrush sized ones from HarborFreight. And prefer to use the brass one on aluminum.
Last time i was there, only the inj pump and inj lines were gone.
I got the vane vac pump.
I need the cam gear and bolt from the head - or your old ones.
And the IM shaft pulley with bolt.
Need the IM shaft too - but not 100% sure it will come out still in the car. It might tho. Grab that stuff for me if you can. I'll come get it and pay you. It will be cheap.
The tig welding will cost you about that much probly.
The real problem is finding the right shop with the right equipment that will be able to surface the head after its welded.
The precups are hard - the head is soft - then the welds.
Most places cant do our heads - and its gonna cost too.
Alrighty gonna make the trip tomorrow... can the IM shaft come out with the engine in the car? i thought it would hit the finder-well? but hey ill try.
You think that tranny will fit my TD? if its still good? Cause i dont know what my Trans code is or anything about these tran. in the MK1
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#73
by
dankcorey22
on 02 Aug, 2010 22:17
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whens the last time you were there?
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#74
by
Baron VonZeppelin
on 02 Aug, 2010 22:36
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About 4 weeks ago.
The last 2 diesel vw's got crushed with the engines still in them.
Car and engine more than likely will be there still.
I'm sure the car will be - head more than likely should be.
Never know for sure until you go.
Only other possibility would be Tom in Winston.
He gets $100, if he has the right one.
Tranny would probably work. Its an ACH code.
Probly same ring and pinion and 5th as what yours would have come with. Tranny code is on bottom of tranny bellhousing.
Codes - ring&pinions - 5th's are listed on
www.a2resource.comMost 85-86 trannys will bolt into mk1.
You have to verify the mounting points.
Good thread on here not too long ago - i have a good pic can email showing what needs to be in order to bolt up with mk1.