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#345
by
53 willys
on 08 May, 2010 08:52
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that's a real bummer Ed...sorry for your troubles...
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#346
by
Smokey Eddy
on 08 May, 2010 12:43
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Here is to hoping the aaz lasts longer
and i don't forget/mess something up.
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#347
by
macka
on 18 May, 2010 20:05
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Here is to hoping the aaz lasts longer and i don't forget/mess something up.
Didja get the MAPP gas yet? I think we are going to be moving the short bus to Surrey or Langley tomorrow. If I get Saturday off I might be able to help get the exhaust turbine housing apart. I'll also bring some deep creep to see if we can get it freed without heat.
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#348
by
Smokey Eddy
on 18 May, 2010 20:35
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Here is to hoping the aaz lasts longer and i don't forget/mess something up.
Didja get the MAPP gas yet? I think we are going to be moving the short bus to Surrey or Langley tomorrow. If I get Saturday off I might be able to help get the exhaust turbine housing apart. I'll also bring some deep creep to see if we can get it freed without heat.
I spent the whole day painting the house. Didn't get the MAPP gas.
Sweet deal! let me know if you do.
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#349
by
Smokey Eddy
on 25 May, 2010 21:07
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Upon complete and total inspection of the crank, rods and IM shaft (what's left of it) the issue was that the IM shaft had siezed in place starving the two middle rods of oil and ultimately causing the rod cap to crack in the middle of the cap...
I found the cap split in two with the con rod bolts still in them...
the IM shaft bearing had almost nothing left. i found a bearing that resembled aluminum foil.
The metal sieve on the pick up of the oil pump saved the rest of the parts (ie. the oil pump it's self) from being destroyed.
a VERY strong neodynium magnet is a must have in your oil pan in my opinion. Several even. not just one...
its the cheapest and easiest extender of engine longevity.
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#350
by
8v-of-fury
on 26 May, 2010 06:25
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This is crazy news.
Would the neodymium magnet (also known as Nd2Fe14B) be strong enough to hold the bigger chunks, that are still small enough to get sucked in to the oil pump? I have seen first hand accounts it is strong enough to hold shavings in the oil filter, but i dunno about chunks.. ?
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#351
by
Smokey Eddy
on 26 May, 2010 17:02
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a VERY strong neodynium magnet is a must have in your oil pan in my opinion. Several even. not just one...
its the cheapest and easiest extender of engine longevity.
None of the bearing material (99%? of the metal that is normally in engine oil) is ferrous and so a magnet in the engine oil will not do much to prevent normal wear and tear.
I agree but when those bits (the bearing material) enters the oil you want to get it out as quick as you can. im not suggesting that putting magnets in your oil pan prevents metal on metal contact...
None of the bearing material (99%? of the metal that is normally in engine oil) is ferrous and so a magnet in the engine oil will not do much to prevent normal wear and tear.
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#352
by
theman53
on 26 May, 2010 17:10
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I think what he is saying is the bearings are mostly lead. Not magnetic. The magnet is a good idea, as it gets the hard stuff. The lead is so soft I would hope it doesn't do much and then gets trapped by the filter.
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#353
by
Smokey Eddy
on 26 May, 2010 17:19
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I think what he is saying is the bearings are mostly lead. Not magnetic. The magnet is a good idea, as it gets the hard stuff. The lead is so soft I would hope it doesn't do much and then gets trapped by the filter.
OHHHHHHH I gotchya. I never thought of that. I thought bearings were tin. Shows what i know
got the last of my parts today for my new build and Tyler found a company that would ship me his aaz block.
I never realized this but the 1.6td blocks have the port for a crank venting system. I wish i had known that years ago...
Also, anyone reading this who knows of a good place to order a Garrett T3 rebuild kit please let me know. I have a site for a local place that will do one for about $75.
http://www.adpdistributors.com/turbochargers.html
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#354
by
Smokey Eddy
on 26 May, 2010 17:22
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Upon further consideration, changing the IM shaft bearings is about on par with importance as a proper timing belt tensioner and new timing belt... for without new ones you totally trash the engine...
Anyone reading this, i would totally reccomend changing the IM shaft bearings. You can do it in car - there is no reason not to.
remove the vacuum pump & oil pump and the cover that holds the im shaft in place and i THINK it will slide out?
mine did anyways but mine was also in about 50 pieces. (it literally shattered. the largest piece is about 3 inches long.)
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#355
by
theman53
on 26 May, 2010 18:07
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some may have tin, copper, lead, just something soft I think. I am not 100% certain, but I know it isn't hard.
except some of the backers are steel and are magnetic.
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#356
by
Smokey Eddy
on 26 May, 2010 18:37
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There was definitely some loss of steel backing. the bearing was non-existent.
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#357
by
Smokey Eddy
on 27 May, 2010 00:20
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Yeah, the actual bearing surfaces are non-magnetic and so the only actual magnetic material during normal engine wear comes from the vac pump gear, rod thrust surfaces and cylinder/ring wear. By the time you actual have any significant magnetic bits in the oil you've lost oil pressure and your engine is already done for.
Intermediate shaft bearings are the only bearings in these engines that typically fail. I don't know if you can get the intermediate shaft out with the engine in place.
oooh i see. yeah i guess mine was forced out in several pieces then because once i removed the cover on the side of the block it slid right out (what was left of it)
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#358
by
rabbitman
on 27 May, 2010 12:17
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By the time you actual have any significant magnetic bits in the oil you've lost oil pressure and your engine is already done for.
That's funny 'cause piston engine aircraft ALWAYS have some metal in the oil screen, usually barely enough to find with a magnet but it's there. Most times there's excessive metal it's from the camshaft/lifters. I've always wondered why they made metal and cars don't? Maybe it's just because they run at a high power setting for lots longer.