My 1.6td/aaz head and other stuff too. - page 14 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #195 by Smokey Eddy on 02 Feb, 2009 00:29
• but... it stalls immediately if i don't have the cold start out the moment i stop cranking...
  
  meaning if i retard the timing back to normal by pushing the lever IN it will stutter and stall...
  but it starts SO easily now... which makes me think its super advanced but then i think it's retarded because of the lever thing :evil:  augh!
  
  maybe i just THINK it starts fast because the last time it was running it would take in excess of 15 seconds to start..?
• #196 by Smokey Eddy on 03 Feb, 2009 12:48
• I can't wait to go get diesel at the gas station and not need to push start it when i want to leave!!!!!            
• #197 by jtanguay on 03 Feb, 2009 18:45
• Quote from: "Smokey Eddy"

  I can't wait to go get diesel at the gas station and not need to push start it when i want to leave!!!!!            

  
  
  hmm... at that point i'd just leave the motor running while i refuel.  and maybe pimp smack anyone who tells me to shut it off  :wink:
• #198 by Smokey Eddy on 03 Feb, 2009 22:36
• I have a question about the cooling system.
  
  
   
  
  I can hear my expansion tank hissing (ever so slightly). The rad is warm, the hoses are pressurized but have lots of air in them?
  the exp. tank is between the marks.
  
  im running straight water
  
  the gauge in the dash doesn't register anything really... :S
  
  the oil stays cool between 80-90 degrees C
  
  Is the hissing because it is 100% water?
  
  The tank and cap have less than 2,000 km on them.
  
  I got so fed up trying to fix it that i bought a new head. ... didn't seem to do anything. I hope to GOD that the block isn't cracked... anyone have any ideas?
  
  Do i need to run it for longer with the cap off? (i didn't run it for very long without the cap on, just long enough for (what i thought) for the t-stat to open.)
  
  I'm also thinking the the T-stat could be malfunctioning at the same time because the hoses get hot seemingly too fast and the gauge never ever EVER reaches the middle.
  
  My best guess is that because its 100% water it is boiling somewhere and expanding.
  In comparison to how it's hissing now from when it was hissing with the old head i can only hear it . The old head would force water/coolant out of the exp. tank.
  
  
  and im noticing the stuttering and lurching more now at lower rpm...  
• #199 by gldgti on 04 Feb, 2009 00:17
• ok, cooling system -
  
  when you fill it, you really need to take your time a bit and ensure that you're getting rid of air bubbles and stuff. park the car so that you give air bubbles the best possible chance to come to the top of the system and dont forget to open the heater tap. squease the top rad hose periodically and watch to see air bubbles coming out though the expansion tank. theres no harm in running the engine with the cap off the expansion tank for a long time to do this job properly.... it certianly shouldnt overheat! i had a small HG leak in my mk1 years ago that used to pressurise the system too much and blow hoses, so i just ran with the cap off - it was fine!
  
  second - straight water will produce a bit more vapour when its warm than coolant will... so you will build vapour in the system earlier with straight water than you will with added coolant. any particular reason your're running without coolant?
  
  finally, on your lurching thing - have you played with the governor? perhaps this is causing the unusual fuelling.
• #200 by Smokey Eddy on 04 Feb, 2009 12:39
• i was using straight water because i was expecting to flush the system. I think i'll drain it and put 50/50 in it.
  
  
  I played with the gov ages ago and drove it for a very long time without any issues....
• #201 by jtanguay on 04 Feb, 2009 13:43
• 100% water is pretty bad if temps go below 0 C.. could potentially crack the block even.
• #202 by Vincent Waldon on 04 Feb, 2009 14:24
• For what it's worth... here's Vince's magic incantation for filling MK2/3s that seems to result in very little turmoil over trapped air:
   
  - disconnect the upper rad hose at the head and backfill the rad with a funnel in the upper rad hose.
  
  This fills the rad up completely and without the closed t-stat trapping in bubbles.
  
  - connect the upper rad hose back up to the head and finish filling via the coolant reservoir.  Fill to "min" at this point.
  
  - leaving the cap off, start the engine and run it at a fast idle until you see steam rising from the coolant reservoir *and* the lower rad hose just becomes warm.  This signifies that the t-stat has finally opened.  You may need to add a bit of coolant to keep the level above the "Min" line... but don't overdo it and aim for the "Max" line.  If you go beyond "just warm" on the lower rad hose at this point the coolant may suddenly boil (since the system is not pressurized) and you'll have a geyser of hot coolant out the reservoir and all over your shiny new engine...BTDT.
  
  - stop the engine and allow it to cool several hours... preferably overnight.  The cap is still off at this point... allowing any last bubbles a chance to vacate.
  
  - with the engine cold, fill to the "Max" line, put the cap back on, and happy motoring !!!
  
  I personally won't waste any more time troubleshooting until I had a proper antifreeze mix in the system... it will have significantly different boiling points etc and behave differently under pressure than pure water.  
  
  My other thought is that I've seen many many many cracked coolant reservoirs... even brand new... and often the first clue is a faint hissing noise at standard operating pressure.  Soapy water will find those pesky cracks quickly, if they exist.  The lid can leak as well... went thru three once.
• #203 by Smokey Eddy on 04 Feb, 2009 15:38
• Thanks Vince! I'll get that straight water outta there. It's probably had enough fun rusting away anyways by now.
  
  The caps have a rubber ring in them that sometimes you just need to pull back to it's resting possition. It's how the cap releases excess pressure in over heat/pressurized coolant situations
• #204 by Smokey Eddy on 05 Feb, 2009 02:23
• Just something to laugh at
  
  You can all laugh at my stupidity here.
  
  
  The blue indicates what kept blowing out at about 20psi. I fixed it with a barbed fitting that i threaded into the rubber hose.
  SO then at 25psi the area indicated in RED split apart somehow? i guess i didn't clamp the two hoses together very well. I THINK i've fixed that... (im not doing anything fancy with it as it is temporary till i get around to doing intercooler/rad fans.)
  
  
  and the yellow posses a question i have for you guys with that clear hose going to your boost gauge. How do you prevent this from melting? Is there some sort of sleeve you guys use or do you zap strap it somewhere?
  as you can see i had mine taped for the time being.
  
  Also, anyone reading this ever had issues with oil leaking from that oil line on the top of the turbo? in the red circle in my picture. I tightened it but it still leaked. Do I need to get it re-flared or something?
  or do i need a new line .
• #205 by dillenger1 on 05 Feb, 2009 03:18
• Take the copper washer out and heat it up with a torch till red hot then put it back and torque to spec.
• #206 by hamradio on 05 Feb, 2009 04:51
• As for that hose, are you just using clear vinyl tubing?  If so, of course that is going to half melt at any sign on heat.  Vacuum line might be a better bet.
• #207 by 53 willys on 05 Feb, 2009 07:08
• come on ed....spend $10 and get a proper boost tubing kit...they can be had at just about any performance auto parts store...comes with the tubing, compression fittings and everything.
• #208 by jtanguay on 05 Feb, 2009 10:20
• i used the plastic hose for my turbo boost gauge, and after a year or so it hasn't melted.  it rubs against the valve cover too... it does have some discolouration where it contacts though... but other than that i wouldn't worry.
• #209 by zukgod1 on 05 Feb, 2009 11:18
• Quote from: "53 willys"

  come on ed....spend $10 and get a proper boost tubing kit...they can be had at just about any performance auto parts store...comes with the tubing, compression fittings and everything.

  
  
  ^^^ x 2 ^^^