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#45
by
cyrus #1
on 31 Oct, 2008 19:02
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According to the Bentley:
Mechanical Engines:
- 1 notch - 0.67-0.80mm
- 2 notch - 0.81-0.90mm
- 3 notch - 0.91-1.02mm
Hydraulic Engines:
- 1 notch - 0.66-0.86mm
- 2 notch - 0.87-0.90mm
- 3 notch - 0.91-1.02mm
Edit: I own page 4 and it looks like you should be 1 notch.
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#46
by
Smokey Eddy
on 31 Oct, 2008 19:04
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WOW.....
Oooooooooooooookay
uhhh so i've been using a 3 notch....
that explains a lot.... right?
if im meant to use a 1 notch and i've been using a 3....
and it barely starts....?
thanks cyrus
edit: jesus .... i can't believe that.
why was i so stupid and didn't make sure the prior owners had the right HG on it when it first started to have trouble starting...
I plan on running some extra boost (25 psi) arp's, metal hg, T3, big DP and exhaust. Should i go 2 notch then? or a 1 since its winter time around the corner? I want to drive it to the ski hills so it'll be cooooollllddd. a 1 notch would be good with less boost?
Suggestions? tips? I really don't know what im doing... clearly.
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#47
by
dillenger1
on 31 Oct, 2008 19:09
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You wouldnt have been able to tell unless you take the head off.
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#48
by
Smokey Eddy
on 31 Oct, 2008 19:11
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i took the head off a year or two after driving it to "fix" the starting problem but i was like ...16/17 i was too dumb and uneducated to check the HG size i just figured... "well i'll get the same as this one here, (waving it in my hand) except a new one! that will fix it!"
DOH!
About the hone... I'm just going to clean it basically with the hone... get it as smooth as possible. Focus on the top as soon as the rest is smooth again. I don't intend on taking any steel off except to like bevel the "lip" at the top, if there even is one. It just feels dirty at the top.
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#49
by
cyrus #1
on 31 Oct, 2008 19:41
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Holy smokes Ed! I guess that's why most of the members on here recommend measuring your protrusion if have a 3 notch gasket. Stupid lazy PO's. :evil:
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#50
by
burn_your_money
on 31 Oct, 2008 20:17
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Get some bore gauges and measure the cylinders as outlined in the bentley. Most of the wear occurs at the top 20% of the cylinder (I think) so you don't want to focus your honing in that area. Unless your measurements tell you otherwise.
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#51
by
Smokey Eddy
on 31 Oct, 2008 21:39
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Stupid lazy PO's
?? you mean Stupid Lazy Me?
Get some bore gauges and measure the cylinders as outlined in the bentley. Most of the wear occurs at the top 20% of the cylinder (I think) so you don't want to focus your honing in that area. Unless your measurements tell you otherwise.
Well i don't have those and i can't buy them so... i guess i'll just have to clean it up so i don't wreck the new rings....
I found an enormous amount of RTV in the oil pump filter mesh thing.
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#52
by
TurboJ
on 04 Nov, 2008 13:25
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uhhh so i've been using a 3 notch....
that explains a lot.... right?
if im meant to use a 1 notch and i've been using a 3....
and it barely starts....?
Well, I don't think that should really affect starting.
For what I know, most tuned TD:s have been using a 3 notch gasket
and that's the rational choice anyway, considering the added boost and all..
just my 2 cents
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#53
by
Smokey Eddy
on 04 Nov, 2008 13:50
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I was thinking about that....
I thought the different sizse was purely FOR starting purposes. otherwise why would they make more than one size if it didn't matter which you used?
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#54
by
TurboJ
on 04 Nov, 2008 13:52
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Well, it does affect the compression ratio, but in practice I understand it makes very little difference.
I think there are three gasket options purely to allow the exact right thickness, so that stock engines are all standardized even though the heads may differ.
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#55
by
Smokey Eddy
on 04 Nov, 2008 14:35
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Oh, by the way i ended up using solvent + 600 grit to get all the soot off. I was very careful not to sand the cylinders down though ahahaha
I know it's very taboo but i got angry!! :evil: and it worked out ok.
Question!!!
I was able to push the pistons out the top with relative ease after i rubbed all the carbon off. There is a slight lip but if it is small enough that the rings passed over it no prob. isn't that a good sign? Or does it not really mean anything...
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#56
by
TurboJ
on 04 Nov, 2008 15:55
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I think that's the way it should be. At least it was that way in my block which had been overhauled recently.
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#57
by
Smokey Eddy
on 05 Nov, 2008 02:27
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Woo hoo!
Okay! so i got that freakin water pump off!!!
The bolts that hold it on were FINGER TIGHT :?
uhhhh
so i took it off anyways and found a crispy gasket of sorts that fell apart
and the pump! with a nice looking impeller
This came with the thermostat i got... any idea's what it's for?
It's tempting to just get a new gasket and put that back on but no, i should get a new pump shouldn't i.
On the topic of vital pumps....
when should one change oil pumps? only when you get issues?
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#58
by
dillenger1
on 05 Nov, 2008 06:16
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Thats the gasket for the block to pump?I dont know what that extra flange is though.
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#59
by
TurboJ
on 05 Nov, 2008 10:00
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Oil pump can be measured for wear, a repair manual should have the guide measurements. Do also check the operating axle of the oil pump (along with the vacuum pump) - there's often play there, and in that case new parts are needed.